I am planning to get out a bit more this year, but I really need some advice on my flash technique. I've been using the pop-up flash for fill in bright sun or to add a bit of zip to subjects in shade or early morning light. I want my shots to have more even lighting and brighter colors.

I've noted Phil and Brian's flash setups and plan to do something similar. My main question is whether similar results are possible with a greater flash-to-subject distance? Working distance for smaller subjects is often very small, but I will generally be farther away and will have more "space" to light. My other concern is the effect on highlights and whether diffused flash will produce harsh results on dew (I guess the many dewdrop shots I've seen may answer that question?).

Here are some shots I've posted before whose colors I think could have been richer with stronger, diffused flash lighting. I think all three had some fill from the pop-up, though I'd need to check the EXIF. Any thoughts?

Not quite sure what you want to achieve. I actually prefer natural dull or early morning natural light shots to any form of flash and tend to only use fill flash when I'm faced with a slight backlit subject.
A diffused bracket mounted flash should give better results than a naked pop up flash but you are correct in thinking the working distance matters and suspect you will get bright reflections from dewdrops etc and possibly double light reflections from both the sun and the flash.
I suspect it's a case of try it and see how you get on but hard to see how you could improve on shots like #3

Brian V.

Thanks, Brian, I think I am just going to give it a go and see if I like the results. Some may like the natural light, but early morning light is too blue for my taste. One of my concerns is that the background is just going to go black, but it may not turn out as bad as I think.

Another reason to try the off-camera flash is to get away from the tripod. I began using the Nikon 200, and now the Sigma 150, and have always used a tripod; hand-holding will be something new for me. The slow shutter speeds required at dawn are always challenging.

And then there are those rare shots, like #3, that are just fine without a big blast of light.

Well half the fun of photography is trying new and different things :)
BTW not sure if you have seen Remy's stuff on flickr - http://www.flickr.com/photos/remus3374/ but he does a lot of early morning natural light shooting often with a tripod or a bean bag.
I tend to only shoot in my garden and can't find early morning bugs- they only appear when the sun comes out :) so have to content myself with early morning dewdrops instead :)
Brian v.

shooting at longer focal distances with flash is more difficult, i have shot with 70-300 is & 100mm macro for dragons and used flash with resonable results, mostly in apperture priority, higher iso and reducing shutterspeed down to 1/40th - 1/100th to ballance background light. works great with standard 100mm macro for spider in web shots where full flash produces black background.
flash just lifts the slightly dark areas.
do prefer nat light for full body shots dragons/damsels & butts

I just received a second-hand SB-600 and noticed in the manual that the near limit of automatic TTL use is only 2 ft., just like many other flashes. In a quick test with the flash shoe-mounted, a shot from about 2 ft. was exposed properly, but shots taken much closer were underexposed. Are you using the flash in TTL mode with the mpe-65 or similar close setup, or are you shooting in manual mode using trial-and-error and experience to get the best exposure?

Originally Posted by frons I just received a second-hand SB-600 and noticed in the manual that the near limit of automatic TTL use is only 2 ft., just like many other flashes. In a quick test with the flash shoe-mounted, a shot from about 2 ft. was exposed properly, but shots taken much closer were underexposed. Are you using the flash in TTL mode with the mpe-65 or similar close setup, or are you shooting in manual mode using trial-and-error and experience to get the best exposure?

you might find that mounted on the hot shoe the light is not lighting up the area nearer the lens, better mount off camera so flash can be angled to light closer to focal distance being used.
ttl works fine with mpe, shooting in manual on camera ,just need to alter flash exposure compensation for different subject - background lighting differences. usually only +- 1 stop

Hi Phil. I really love your helpful tips and spectacular macro shots. This is something i find just amazing at seeing details that i have been looking at for my entire life and never seen. I want to give this a go and am preparing my next setup. Where might be a good place to locate the ball head and clamp used in your setup? Do you find your DIY diffusers to be more effective than a standard square type diffuser?

Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge.

Chris

hi Chris, i use 2x 19mm novoflex mini ball heads , which give every angle needed to alter flash angle, they are attached to a very old straight metal flash bracket. in usa check out b&h , think they sell all the pieces you need.
home made diffusers are always superior to commercially available products as they are constructed for your specific requirements. took me 2 years of experimenting to get the light how i like it!

Originally Posted by GOLDENORFE congrats on the new lens, try shooting at x1- x2 mag at first. move the camera towards the subject & shoot when the eyes are in focus. depth of field very narrow, shoot f8-f11 at x1-x3 mag and f5-f7 at x3- x5 mag for a start just takes a lot of practise. what flash are you using? here are 3 shots, #1 &3 taken by holding leaf in left hand & resting lens on hand, keeps everything steady.

I just love Macro Photography!!! I've been looking between the Kenko Extention Tubes or Raynox 150 & 250. Your photos here are exactly what I want to achieve! I have a Nikon D90 I have 3 lens right now a Nikon 85mm 1.8F, Tameron 17-50mm & Tameron 70-200mm. Now can I just add something on one of these lens or would I have to buy another lens plus add one of these on. Not wanting to spend alot. I really need someone's advice, when I look online there is so much out there. Thank u!

Without spending too much ,kenko extension tubes will increase magnification on all of your lens`s , you will not get the same image quality using zoom lens compared to a macro lens though.
you could also think about getting a secondhand 100mm macro + ex tubes to get x2 magnification, you will need to use flash at higher magnifications, have u got a standard flash gun?

Phil,

I have a Sony a200. I am on a limited budget so I can not go get a nice cannon. When it comes to macro should I give up and walk away or will my Sony be OK? My wife wants to get me a tripod and macro lens for my 50th birthday. But if we would be wasting our $ I would rather get something else.

Please do not get me wrong I LOVE my Sony but I keep seeing how everyone is saying that the Cannon is better.

Thanks ahead of time for your honest advise.

Love & Prayers
Darryl

Originally Posted by PappyRoot Phil, I have a Sony a200. I am on a limited budget so I can not go get a nice cannon. When it comes to macro should I give up and walk away or will my Sony be OK? My wife wants to get me a tripod and macro lens for my 50th birthday. But if we would be wasting our $ I would rather get something else. Please do not get me wrong I LOVE my Sony but I keep seeing how everyone is saying that the Cannon is better. Thanks ahead of time for your honest advise. Love & Prayers Darryl

Can't really see why your Sony should not be absolutely fine for macro as long as you can get a reasonable macro lens for it.

Brian v.

Originally Posted by Lord Vetinari Can't really see why your Sony should not be absolutely fine for macro as long as you can get a reasonable macro lens for it. Brian v.

Thank you so much Brian. I did not think it would matter.

Love & Prayers
Darryl

I am also using Canon camera (EOS 5d MKII) and a range of Canon lenses. In the photo of your equipment I see that you are using the three Kenko extension rings together with 100mm Macro. I used to do exactly the same, until I discovered that the 50mm lens with the Kenco rings allows much closer focusing! I don't know why but it happens!

I notice that most of you don't recommend the ring flash with the 65mm MP-E. Might I ask why? I was fortunate to be given both as Christmas gifts last year and I'm just wondering if I should use that ring flash or my regular 580EXII? Of course, FIRST I have to learn to focus and adjust for my deteriorating vision as noted in another thread :)

Originally Posted by Snowgirl I notice that most of you don't recommend the ring flash with the 65mm MP-E. Might I ask why? I was fortunate to be given both as Christmas gifts last year and I'm just wondering if I should use that ring flash or my regular 580EXII? Of course, FIRST I have to learn to focus and adjust for my deteriorating vision as noted in another thread :)

shadow give depth to the image
the light from ring comes from all directions , thus eliminates shadow

what i would try ;
-remove from the lens and mount it on the tripod-mount of the lens
-try to make a diffuser on it
-if you 'd use the 580EX , you would have to do that also

Originally Posted by basflt shadow give depth to the image the light from ring comes from all directions , thus eliminates shadow what i would try ; -remove from the lens and mount it on the tripod-mount of the lens -try to make a diffuser on it -if you 'd use the 580EX , you would have to do that also

Ah - so the ring flash would create a flatter light / flatter image without depth. Thank you. That makes sense.

Can someone explain image sizing when using an O)lympus 620 and a 105 MM macro lens.
Cannot get my brain to cooperate.
Hope I have worded the question correctly.

Originally Posted by Snowgirl Ah - so the ring flash would create a flatter light / flatter image without depth. Thank you. That makes sense.

The Canon ring flash has two flash tubes which are rigged as groups A and B. You can control flash output of each. which moves flash source at an angle to the subject introducing shadow. I have both the ring flash and the one with two heads that everybody uses, but sometimes like the ring flash for it's compactness. Use the A:B flash settings and you will come closer to the other flash results than most believe.