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#1
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Major grins
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Time lapse - a how-to guide using a Lightroom-based workflow
I am by no means an expert having only been at time lapses for 2 weeks but have found them quite addicting. Below is my current workflow for shooting and processing time lapses via Lightroom. There are great resources for this on the web but I was asked to share what I am currently doing so here goes. This workflow requires very little to no added investment to get started with time lapse photography.
Before leaving the house, make sure you have: Full battery, empty CF (enough space for 200-400 images) Settings: Most prefer manual mode but you can use Av mode if expect large change in exposure (i.e. sunset) Av mode at f/8 or less (i.e. more open) At max aperture, you eliminate aperture flicker (electronic apertures will waver around set point) Or make your lens a manual one: After choosing aperture in Av mode, hold DOF button while unscrewing lens to just past point of electrical coupling. Lens is now a manual one and won't have aperture changed. If get err99 on Canon, may need to rotate a bit more. ISO 100-400 Goal shutter speed longer than 1/100s to minimize shutter flicker Turn off review of photo to save battery RAW preferred to allow latitude for adjustments in post Set a WB Place camera on tripod, level, attach intervalometer. I bought this for my Canon 350D: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Q9RERY And this for my Canon 50D: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003F69JBW I thought I would use my 50D for this but it makes much more sense to use your backup camera for time-lapse as each one will eat up 200-500 shutter actuations Set focus on camera and switch lens to manual focus to lock. Make sure IS is off. Decouple lens from camera to lock in aperture. Make sure lens hood is not vignetting if have flower style one Cover the eyepiece Decide on an interval (ballpark figures from timescapes.com forum): Fast moving clouds: 1 second Slow moving clouds: 10 seconds Sun moving across a clear sky: (wide) 20-30 seconds Stars moving across the sky: (wide) between 20-60 seconds Sunsets close up: 1-2 seconds Crowds of people: 1-2 seconds Plants growing eg cucumber vines: 2 minutes Shadows moving across the ground: 10-20 seconds Vincent Laforet gives a ballpark figure of 6 seconds to start from You can also use the following to estimate your interval: Time shooting (i.e. 60 minutes) divided by Time of final movie (i.e. 10 seconds) at 24 fps - Need 10x24 images in 3600 seconds = 15 second interval Set it and forget it…. At home: Download LRtimelapse (lrtimelapse.com) and LR presets on site. Move them to appropriate folders Import images into Lightroom with LRtimelapse develop preset Open first image and adjust settings Recover for sky, fill light for foreground, saturation, lens correction Select all and sync settings Save metadata to image Open LRtimelapse and navigate to folder where images were imported Wait for it to load all images Click Deflicker and leave settings as-is Select first image in list, shift-select last image and click on Linear (or other on list) Save and exit In Lightroom, all images should still be selected. Click read metadata from images. Switch to Slideshow module Click preset for 24fps Add watermark if desired Export with Ultra high quality 1080p 24fps video setting Upload to Smugmug and share with the world. I'm still unsure about setting contrast to the medium or strong curve in LR and/or sharpening images prior to the LRtimelapse stage. I would welcome others input on this. Thanks and hope this was useful |
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#2
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Major grins
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wow, fantastic write up on your work flow, it's been interesting to follow you through the process. Time to order an intervalometer I guess, got the rest under control.
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#3
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Favorite Color? 18% Grey.
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Great tutorial, thanks for taking the time to write it up! Now I want to do timelapses... Tell ya one thing... you're making a lot of money for those intervalometer sellers on Amazon
![]() For those that don't have LR, I tried a time lapse in Proshow Gold and it worked fine (no I didn't use an intervalometer, and yeah, it didn't look too good. But it worked). BTW, you live in a nice town |
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#4
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Major grins
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Quote:
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#5
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Still learnin'still lovin
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Wonderful tutorial and an excellent primer into getting into timelapse photography and video.
The only thing I would add is that LRTimelapse also works for the ACR that comes with Photoshop. The method and procedure is at their site. |
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#6
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J.Chin Photography
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What do you mean by "Decouple lens from camera to lock in aperture"?
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Johnny J. Chin ~ J. Chin Photography Facebook ♦ Flickr ♦ SmugMug SmugMug referral coupon code: ix3uDyfBU6xXs (use this for a discount off your SmugMug subscription) |
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#7
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Major grins
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Probably should have repeated this part from above:
Or make your lens a manual one: After choosing aperture in Av mode, hold DOF button while unscrewing lens to just past point of electrical coupling. Lens is now a manual one and won't have aperture changed. If get err99 on Canon, may need to rotate a bit more. |
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#8
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J.Chin Photography
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Hmm ... I never though a lens would work if I unscrewed it (partially) from the body. I'll have to try this tonight. Thanks for the lesson.
__________________
Johnny J. Chin ~ J. Chin Photography Facebook ♦ Flickr ♦ SmugMug SmugMug referral coupon code: ix3uDyfBU6xXs (use this for a discount off your SmugMug subscription) |
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#9
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Major grins
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You need to do it just enough to clear the electric coupling. You'll see the aperture change to 00 in the viewfinder. However, the shutter speed should be the same as it was before uncoupling. All this does is 'freeze' your aperture so there can be no fluctuations.
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#10
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Big grins
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Are there any free programs that can make a timelapse out of your photos. All I have is motion 5 and final cut pro for my video editing. But I'm not sure if they can make a timelapse.
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#11
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Major grins
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ipatry- what operating system?
and now for the most supremely unhelpful post, I use Openshot. It's Linux though, so that's probably of absolutely no help at all. |
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#12
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Still learnin'still lovin
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Quote:
http://www.dayofthenewdan.com/projec...se-assembler-1 Later you may want to do some frame interpolation to smooth the motion, etc., and I would hope that FCP can help with that. |
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