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For Panther-Portugal Photos
Justiceiro
Registered Users Posts: 1,177 Major grins
Panther (and anyone else interested); here are some photos of the places I was talking about in Portugal that you could visit when you are there this May.
The Islamic South
3 hours south of Cascais by Car is the coast of the Algarve (Al-Gharb, Kingdom of the West). Places you should hit are:
LAGOS-FUSETA-OLHAO
Lagos has some nice sea cliffs and beaches
A bit east of Lagos is Fuseta, a pretty decent place without hordes of British tourists.
also cool is Olhao (Al-Hain), more tourists than Fuseta, but less than Faro. There seem to be a few islamic-like buildings still left here. It seems to me, due to the layout of the interior of a lot of churches here, that they used to be mosques, but the locals don't really know, and sources in English are not widely available about the Algarve during that Taifa period. Portuguese language sources are either new and incredibly obtuse in an academic way, or old and more nationalistic than factual. Regardless, the arabic/berber influence is clear- particularly in the physiogeny of the local people. Olhao also has a lot of "medina-like" small streets (below):
Fruit Market in Olhao (I love that guy's cap, that is 100% typically portuguese)
Tavira is a nice place to relax at a riverfront Cafe, and take a look at the roman bridge. The locals say that this was the siteof the last battle of the Reconquista in Portugal.
another shot of the bridge
MERTOLA
Swing East almost to the Spanish border, then up for 30-40 kilometers, until you get to Mertola. Probably the most islamic in character of Alentejo towns. There is an "islamic fair" from the 19-22nd of may this year.
moorish gate in Mertola
View of Mertola from the Fortress, Gaudiana River
Former Mosque, now church
another former mosque
Again, local knowledge of history is not the best- this is probably due to the fact that muslim and jewish identities were suppressed after the reconquista, but if a building has a courtyard and a minaret (as above) it's pretty easy to identify as a mosque or a religious school. Another thing to look out for in some villages is a small hole in the wall, or cross mark, near the gate to a house. Jews often secreted a mezzuzah (sic?) inside a wall and placed a cross over it, so that they could touch the mezzuzah before they entered the house, without alerting the authorities. People still build the holes, without knowing why they exist (that's just the way they, good catholics now, have always done it).
One of the great things about Portugal is the unconscious persistence of islamic stuff in everyday life and language. For example, when discussing future events they say "Oxala" (Insha'allah), literally, "if God wills it." Also, if a person is over-formal or too obsequious, they say he is "full of salamaleik" (from "Salaam alleikum, traditional arabic greeting). I think this may be only an Algarvian expression. Anyway, its wierd.
the Banu Qasi ruled Mertola as a Taifa state for a considerable time, until conqoured by the Almohads
handicapped parking in Mertola
Porto and the North
Porto is the commercial heart of Portugal, the second largest city and its greatest port. Remember what I told you about Port Wine, and the sudden violence that comparisons with Gallo port may incite. In fact, the less said about California, the better. Porto has a totally different "feel" than the rest of portugal. A lot of English influence from the wine trade and the English "factors" that spent centuries here. (I once taught English to a student named "Joao Miguel Archer.")
Typical scenes of Port Wine Boats on the Douro, Porto in the background
Avenida dos Aliados, Porto's "Main Street"
Porto is a city of Steep Hills, and Beautifully tiled churches
The Train Station at Sao Bento has some huge and beautiful tile murals (azulejos), undergoing reconstruction the last time I visited (in early 2005). They should be done by now. Its hard to tell scale on these pics, but I would say they are 25 feet high or so.
The Conquest of Ceuta
Close up of the conquest of Ceuta
Tiles also decorate the outside of many buildings, such as the Church of Batalha. Very Pretty, but can tend to look like a giant bathroom if badly done.
Igreja da Batalha
Tiled Storefront with "calcada" style sidewalk
Porto Tram at Ribeira
Anyway, you get the idea. This post is getting a bit overlong as it is. If you have any specific questions or need advice on what to skip, send me a PM. Whatever you do, keep two important points in mind:
1- Don't miss Mertola!
2- Don't spend the whole two weeks in Cascais.
The Islamic South
3 hours south of Cascais by Car is the coast of the Algarve (Al-Gharb, Kingdom of the West). Places you should hit are:
LAGOS-FUSETA-OLHAO
Lagos has some nice sea cliffs and beaches
A bit east of Lagos is Fuseta, a pretty decent place without hordes of British tourists.
also cool is Olhao (Al-Hain), more tourists than Fuseta, but less than Faro. There seem to be a few islamic-like buildings still left here. It seems to me, due to the layout of the interior of a lot of churches here, that they used to be mosques, but the locals don't really know, and sources in English are not widely available about the Algarve during that Taifa period. Portuguese language sources are either new and incredibly obtuse in an academic way, or old and more nationalistic than factual. Regardless, the arabic/berber influence is clear- particularly in the physiogeny of the local people. Olhao also has a lot of "medina-like" small streets (below):
Fruit Market in Olhao (I love that guy's cap, that is 100% typically portuguese)
Tavira is a nice place to relax at a riverfront Cafe, and take a look at the roman bridge. The locals say that this was the siteof the last battle of the Reconquista in Portugal.
another shot of the bridge
MERTOLA
Swing East almost to the Spanish border, then up for 30-40 kilometers, until you get to Mertola. Probably the most islamic in character of Alentejo towns. There is an "islamic fair" from the 19-22nd of may this year.
moorish gate in Mertola
View of Mertola from the Fortress, Gaudiana River
Former Mosque, now church
another former mosque
Again, local knowledge of history is not the best- this is probably due to the fact that muslim and jewish identities were suppressed after the reconquista, but if a building has a courtyard and a minaret (as above) it's pretty easy to identify as a mosque or a religious school. Another thing to look out for in some villages is a small hole in the wall, or cross mark, near the gate to a house. Jews often secreted a mezzuzah (sic?) inside a wall and placed a cross over it, so that they could touch the mezzuzah before they entered the house, without alerting the authorities. People still build the holes, without knowing why they exist (that's just the way they, good catholics now, have always done it).
One of the great things about Portugal is the unconscious persistence of islamic stuff in everyday life and language. For example, when discussing future events they say "Oxala" (Insha'allah), literally, "if God wills it." Also, if a person is over-formal or too obsequious, they say he is "full of salamaleik" (from "Salaam alleikum, traditional arabic greeting). I think this may be only an Algarvian expression. Anyway, its wierd.
the Banu Qasi ruled Mertola as a Taifa state for a considerable time, until conqoured by the Almohads
handicapped parking in Mertola
Porto and the North
Porto is the commercial heart of Portugal, the second largest city and its greatest port. Remember what I told you about Port Wine, and the sudden violence that comparisons with Gallo port may incite. In fact, the less said about California, the better. Porto has a totally different "feel" than the rest of portugal. A lot of English influence from the wine trade and the English "factors" that spent centuries here. (I once taught English to a student named "Joao Miguel Archer.")
Typical scenes of Port Wine Boats on the Douro, Porto in the background
Avenida dos Aliados, Porto's "Main Street"
Porto is a city of Steep Hills, and Beautifully tiled churches
The Train Station at Sao Bento has some huge and beautiful tile murals (azulejos), undergoing reconstruction the last time I visited (in early 2005). They should be done by now. Its hard to tell scale on these pics, but I would say they are 25 feet high or so.
The Conquest of Ceuta
Close up of the conquest of Ceuta
Tiles also decorate the outside of many buildings, such as the Church of Batalha. Very Pretty, but can tend to look like a giant bathroom if badly done.
Igreja da Batalha
Tiled Storefront with "calcada" style sidewalk
Porto Tram at Ribeira
Anyway, you get the idea. This post is getting a bit overlong as it is. If you have any specific questions or need advice on what to skip, send me a PM. Whatever you do, keep two important points in mind:
1- Don't miss Mertola!
2- Don't spend the whole two weeks in Cascais.
Cave ab homine unius libri
0
Comments
"In fact, the less said about California, the better. " Watch it!
http://www.germaine.smugmug.com
from the other post:
The Portuguese, normally peaceful and affable when not on crusade, or talking about Spain, may become exceedingly unpleasent and possibly violent if you remark that "we have port wine in california too, it's called Gallo", so be forewarned. Only wine from Porto is port wine. This is as true as the real presence of christ in the bread and wine, and should similarly not be discussed in polite company.
Also, there are only 5 continents. "The Americas" are one continent, becuase they are culturally similar (Caracas and Boston, same same) whereas Europe and Asia are two continents. because, of course, they are totally different. Antarctica apparently doesn't count. I guess you have to have people to be a continent. Saying that there are seven continents is like saying marriage with a Spanish person is OK. It's an obviously crazy thing to say.
"A bit east of Lagos is Fuseta, a pretty decent place without hordes of British tourists."
....you could be talking about me:
The Algarve is one of my favourite places for a break - but only in the winter months
Nice series Justiceiro
mark
Love the tour! Thank you!
Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
I'm not surprised about the animosity with Spain...after all, they have a long history of having to share a highly contested peninsula. I wonder, though, if the sentiment is equal to any portion/province of Spain.
Erich
I don't know any regions of Spain other than Galicia, and a slightly crazy Galician guy at the Unversity of Porto who says that Galician is a dialect of Portuguese, and wants Galicia to "return to the motherland." I think he's a bit off his nut, as I've never heard any other Galicians or Portuguese express that sentiment. He sits in the student cafe by himself a lot, muttering.
When My wife is not around, I quite like Spain. However, I have to stick to the official policy line within earshot of the Portuguese half of my family.