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Swim Meet.

arrgh406arrgh406 Registered Users Posts: 57 Big grins
edited January 27, 2010 in Sports
I took these at a HS swim meet. They are mostly significant crops from my D90 50/1.8. Please give me feedback!

4299404474_f2d5aa7c91.jpg

4299406090_b2ccdc1d75.jpg

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See the rest at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/arrgh406/sets/72157623270983536/
[URL]Http://jobphotography.smugmug.com[/URL]
D90, 50/1.8, 18-105/3.5-5.6, 80-200 f/2.8 (finally!)

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    time2smiletime2smile Registered Users Posts: 835 Major grins
    edited January 24, 2010
    Welcome....

    By no means am I qualified to CC, but I am fond of swimmers. With the lighting always being bad, its always a challenge to do.

    first shot is your best one..
    second shot, not to sharp, and the timming should of been with her head out of the water.
    third, just seems to grainy, maybe try one lower on the iso.

    I like the relay (last shot) on Flickr.

    Try using a speedlight and a zoom lens, so you dont have to crop so much.

    good luck
    Ted....
    It's not what you look at that matters: Its what you see!
    Nikon
    http://www.time2smile.smugmug.com
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    arrgh406arrgh406 Registered Users Posts: 57 Big grins
    edited January 24, 2010
    time2smile wrote:
    By no means am I qualified to CC


    What, do people go to school to get to be able to CC? Dont worry, everyone is allowed to express their opinion.

    Also: if you have shot any swimming, can you give me advice on speedlight usage?
    [URL]Http://jobphotography.smugmug.com[/URL]
    D90, 50/1.8, 18-105/3.5-5.6, 80-200 f/2.8 (finally!)
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    time2smiletime2smile Registered Users Posts: 835 Major grins
    edited January 24, 2010
    I missed the training day on CC.. I was out playing hooky, taken shots.

    Get a Nikon SB-900, 800, or 600, I have a SB-600 and can use it at most pools just not at the start because it effects the strobes. It doesn't bother the swimmers, or at least that what I've been told. I just set it on ttl and fire away, at the time I had a D50, lens were nothing to speak of. I now have a D90 and the only swimming I did, I was lucky enough to have an outdoor meet (now that was cool) and it was just for fun. Now I would probably do manual at ½ or ¼ power depending on the ambient light. A few test shots during warm ups to set exposure.
    Dream setup would be 4 strobes at each corner with either CLS or poppers to control, but my pockets would never be that deep for that expense.
    My best advise would be to have fun, try different f stops to control DOF. Keep the ISO at 1600 + and try the NR noise reduction on high, and most of all pray for good lighting...
    Ted....
    It's not what you look at that matters: Its what you see!
    Nikon
    http://www.time2smile.smugmug.com
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    flipperpicsflipperpics Registered Users Posts: 22 Big grins
    edited January 25, 2010
    I've had better luck without flash in most places. I shot a meet yesterday with a D50 and 70-200 2.8L lens with some pretty decent results. ISO 1200 kept the noise down a little.

    Just my $0.02 worth
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    johngjohng Registered Users Posts: 1,658 Major grins
    edited January 25, 2010
    Welcome to the fun of sports photography. Of the 3 shots, the first is the best by far. Sharp and decent color. My suggestion is to try and get lower - and shoot fly from strait on.

    Shot 2: over cropped, too much blur and too late - it can be an interesting shot if you get the hands breaking water but with the head in it's just not as interesting. But the biggest issue is it was over cropped - you can't shoot from very far away with a 50mm lens - about 15 feet is all.

    Shot 3: too much noise and too much blur - just not a sharp and pleasing image. Compare that shot to shot 1 and you'll see what I mean. I'd hazard a guess this image was over cropped as well.

    All in all, not a bad start - but 50mm is way too short a focal length for swimming. 70-200 2.8 is a better option, BUT ISOs will range from 1600-3200. So that's going to be a problem for the D50. As others have mentioned, flash is an alternative. I suggest using on-camera or bracket mounted. I wouldn't use fixed lenses around the deck - the problem with that approach is the variable distance. I don't think you're going to get the right balance for lanes 1 / 8 and 4 / 5 and middle / end of lane with that approach.
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    arrgh406arrgh406 Registered Users Posts: 57 Big grins
    edited January 26, 2010
    johng wrote:
    Welcome to the fun of sports photography. Of the 3 shots, the first is the best by far. Sharp and decent color. My suggestion is to try and get lower - and shoot fly from strait on.

    Shot 2: over cropped, too much blur and too late - it can be an interesting shot if you get the hands breaking water but with the head in it's just not as interesting. But the biggest issue is it was over cropped - you can't shoot from very far away with a 50mm lens - about 15 feet is all.

    Shot 3: too much noise and too much blur - just not a sharp and pleasing image. Compare that shot to shot 1 and you'll see what I mean. I'd hazard a guess this image was over cropped as well.

    All in all, not a bad start - but 50mm is way too short a focal length for swimming. 70-200 2.8 is a better option, BUT ISOs will range from 1600-3200. So that's going to be a problem for the D50. As others have mentioned, flash is an alternative. I suggest using on-camera or bracket mounted. I wouldn't use fixed lenses around the deck - the problem with that approach is the variable distance. I don't think you're going to get the right balance for lanes 1 / 8 and 4 / 5 and middle / end of lane with that approach.

    I am currently working on getting a 70-200 f/2.8. Do you think higher ISOs will be a problem on the D90? I dont see them looking too bad, but I cant really judge my own work all that well.
    [URL]Http://jobphotography.smugmug.com[/URL]
    D90, 50/1.8, 18-105/3.5-5.6, 80-200 f/2.8 (finally!)
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    johngjohng Registered Users Posts: 1,658 Major grins
    edited January 27, 2010
    arrgh406 wrote:
    I am currently working on getting a 70-200 f/2.8. Do you think higher ISOs will be a problem on the D90? I dont see them looking too bad, but I cant really judge my own work all that well.

    You should have usable 3200 on the d90. The key is getting the FACES exposed properly in the first place. With any camera when you underexpose and fix in post processing you bring out more noise.
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