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Black Background

JSPhotographyJSPhotography Registered Users Posts: 552 Major grins
edited January 6, 2011 in Technique
I tried getting a shot the other day with a pure black background and my subject bright/well exposed using my flash but without success. I set up my subject closer to me than a dark background. I then took a bunch of exposures with different flash settings. Either the background was lit up or the subject was underexposed. What am I doing wrong? I really like the look for a number of subjects(flowers for example).

I have also been told to use black velvet but I would rather learn how to accomplish with light.

Seems how I can't get it right I can't post a shot without hijacking somebody else's.

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    SimpsonBrothersSimpsonBrothers Registered Users Posts: 1,079 Major grins
    edited January 5, 2011
    2 off camera flashes coming in from the side, then adjust your power. Or 1 on camera flash using spot metering. Might be harsh though.
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    basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited January 5, 2011
    there must be no background nearby
    the further away , the less you see

    anything nearby will show
    even black surface can reflect (some) light

    dsc0015r.jpg
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    r3t1awr3ydr3t1awr3yd Registered Users Posts: 1,000 Major grins
    edited January 5, 2011
    basflt wrote: »
    there must be no background nearby
    the further away , the less you see

    anything nearby will show
    even black surface can reflect (some) light
    +1 to this. DEFINITELY be aware of the distance from your subject to the background. Place your light closer and control it with gobos. I struggle with this all the time. :cry

    Hi! I'm Wally: website | blog | facebook | IG | scotchNsniff
    Nikon addict. D610, Tok 11-16, Sig 24-35, Nik 24-70/70-200vr
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    JSPhotographyJSPhotography Registered Users Posts: 552 Major grins
    edited January 5, 2011
    2 off camera flashes coming in from the side, then adjust your power. Or 1 on camera flash using spot metering. Might be harsh though.


    From the side - good, I'll try that. Spot metering huh, if I'm shooting everything manual (camer and flash) does that matter? Still may have been my problem as I think I was in Aperture mode.
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    JSPhotographyJSPhotography Registered Users Posts: 552 Major grins
    edited January 5, 2011
    r3t1awr3yd wrote: »
    +1 to this. DEFINITELY be aware of the distance from your subject to the background. Place your light closer and control it with gobos. I struggle with this all the time. :cry

    I was maybe 3' from the subject and had a good 8' behind it. And now the nebie question - what are gobos?
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    adbsgicomadbsgicom Registered Users Posts: 3,615 Major grins
    edited January 5, 2011
    With your flash from the side, make sure you flag it from spilling toward the background. If you can't shoot from the sides (so you have less light hitting the b/g) and have from come from more straight-on, get as close as you can with the light.

    For example, if your light is 4' from the object and the b/g is 4' further away, that's a 2x difference, and 1/d^2 for the light falloff says you have 1/4 of full exposure on the b/g. Now, if you move the light to 1' away (and now the b/g is 5' away -- still 4' further), the b/g is 5x further away, and you have 1/25 of a full exposure on the b/g.

    Even then, use a snoot to focus the light as narrowly as possible to avoid spill. Simple snoot can be made of craft-foam or even a couple layers of black construction paper.
    - Andrew

    Who is wise? He who learns from everyone.
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    adbsgicomadbsgicom Registered Users Posts: 3,615 Major grins
    edited January 5, 2011
    I was maybe 3' from the subject and had a good 8' behind it. And now the nebie question - what are gobos?

    You put this in while I was typing the other reply.

    1) A gobo is a "go-between" something to block the light from where you don't want it. Something black like a piece of craft foam, or foam-core to keep the light from spilling forward.
    2) 3/11 squared is 7.4%, or almost 4 stops (log2(.074) = -3.74) below fully lit. Moving closer with the light can still help.
    - Andrew

    Who is wise? He who learns from everyone.
    My SmugMug Site
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    pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,698 moderator
    edited January 5, 2011
    As long as the background is 3 to 4 stops darker than your subjects it will appear black in your final image. But to achieve that, you must be very mindful where your light is going and being reflected as well.

    Nothing wrong with using black velvet either, I use flat black vinyl for a background at times, as well. A lot easier to photograph as black than a light grey background that is in deep shadow. Both will look black in the final image.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
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    Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited January 6, 2011
    also shoot at your top flash / shutter sync speed.............my 10x20 foot blk is a light weight muslin off ebay (approx. $69.00).......i prefer muslin over most any other type of backdrop.........
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

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