Aquarium Photos - Need Tips!

hollyc · December 8, 2005

Hello! My company's holiday party is next Saturday night at the new Georgia Aquarium and we're going to have exclusive access to it after 8:30 pm. I haven't been to the aquarium yet, and I'm very excited to have the opportunity to photograph it in such an intimate setting. There probably won't be very many people around so I'm hoping to get some good shots.

Any tips? I want to be prepared! I shoot with a Canon Digital Rebel and have a 50mm 1.8 (or maybe it's a 2.8 - can't remember), 28-80mm 3.5-5.6, 80-200mm 4.5-6, and 17-35mm (can't remember f/, but I'm sure it's average).

Right now I plan to use my 17-35mm, no flash, with ISO of 800. Desperately need tips!

Thanks in advance!

Andy · December 8, 2005

You're in for a treat.

Bring the 50 f/1.8 and the 17-35. You won't need the others! Shoot in RAW, the color-balance on aquarium shots is tough. Have a flash for the non-tank shots (people, etc). Be prepared to shoot at ISO 800/1600 on the tank shots. Get a lens hood for your lenses, and use a monopod. Go right up to the glass, with the lens hood, camera on monopod. You'll be steadiest this way.

Good luck!

Osprey Whisperer · December 8, 2005

Lighting is usually the issue with aquarium shots. Most of the tanks are not well lit. Add the fact that the fish are usually moving pretty fast and you have a difficult shooting situation. There are some tricks that can help you obtain clear crisp shots. One technique is to focus on a spot (ie. rock,coral etc.). Set your focus on the rock and now either back it off a tad ..or move back just a tad. This will move the focus infront of the rock. Now you have to wait for the fish to swim into view. You won't have long..so be ready. If the fish cooperates and pauses..all the better. Prefocusing ..is a big help for fast moving fish. Your AF might have difficulty in the dim light.

Another helpful technique is panning. You might not be able to shoot at the speed you like to stop action (fish). Firmly positioning your arms tight against your body...and moving/pivoting from the waist while tracking fish is also very helpful. I've had shots taken at 1/60 that turn out fine. Anything below this is very difficult. Just make sure you are steady..and firm (bracing arms/camera against body). You can try to use a tripod, but this is often difficult at busy public aquariums. If you do take one...don't forget the shutter release.

Polarizing filters can also aid in reducing reflection on the outside of the aquariums (for long shots). They obviously cut valuable light..but sometimes you need this filter in your bag.

Flash is difficult for the actual tank shots. I'd try to avoid it unless it is possible for an off camera set up that you can position above the tank. That annoying glass causes all kinds of problems when shooting. That reminds me. You might think about taking some lens cleaning stuff to clean off the kiddy finger prints on the glass. Just don't let the park officials see you using chemicals. :uhoh

You might go to the local fish store and practice to get familiar with what combination of settings / equipment work best for you. Aquarium photography seems to be more of a compromise than most other shooting. Difficult shooting situation....but once you figure out the tricks and techniques..very rewarding.

Good luck (jealousy sets in). I can't wait to get up there to see that place. Sounds exciting.

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/photographytips/

All shots: Canon G2 ISO 400 1/60 f/2.8 hand held (no noise reduction...yet)

Your results with a DSLR should be better.

John Mueller · December 8, 2005

Bird Man Photographer wrote:

Lighting is usually the issue with aquarium shots. Most of the tanks are not well lit. Add the fact that the fish are usually moving pretty fast and you have a difficult shooting situation. There are some tricks that can help you obtain clear crisp shots. One technique is to focus on a spot (ie. rock,coral etc.). Set your focus on the rock and now either back it off a tad ..or move back just a tad. This will move the focus infront of the rock. Now you have to wait for the fish to swim into view. You won't have long..so be ready. If the fish cooperates and pauses..all the better. Prefocusing ..is a big help for fast moving fish. Your AF might have difficulty in the dim light.

Another helpful technique is panning. You might not be able to shoot at the speed you like to stop action (fish). Firmly positioning your arms tight against your body...and moving/pivoting from the waist while tracking fish is also very helpful. I've had shots taken at 1/60 that turn out fine. Anything below this is very difficult. Just make sure you are steady..and firm (bracing arms/camera against body). You can try to use a tripod, but this is often difficult at busy public aquariums. If you do take one...don't forget the shutter release.

Polarizing filters can also aid in reducing reflection on the outside of the aquariums (for long shots). They obviously cut valuable light..but sometimes you need this filter in your bag.

Flash is difficult for the actual tank shots. I'd try to avoid it unless it is possible for an off camera set up that you can position above the tank. That annoying glass causes all kinds of problems when shooting. That reminds me. You might think about taking some lens cleaning stuff to clean off the kiddy finger prints on the glass. Just don't let the park officials see you using chemicals. :uhoh

You might go to the local fish store and practice to get familiar with what combination of settings / equipment work best for you. Aquarium photography seems to be more of a compromise than most other shooting. Difficult shooting situation....but once you figure out the tricks and techniques..very rewarding.

Good luck (jealousy sets in). I can't wait to get up there to see that place. Sounds exciting.

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/photographytips/

All shots: Canon G2 ISO 400 1/60 f/2.8 hand held (no noise reduction...yet)

Your results with a DSLR should be better.

And dont forget yer fishing pole:D

Good tips,
Ill being needing this soon as I have another trip planned.

rutt · December 9, 2005

One you bring the shots home, try out the Man from Mars post processing technique on them:

http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=21859

I found this really brought my aquarium shots to life big time.

Before:

After:

Before:

After:

RichardBrackin · December 9, 2005

First time for aquarium shots
I took my camera to the aquarium for the first time back in July. I ruined quite a few pictures before I figured it out. I don't have anything to add except some moral support that you can get some pretty good pictures in an aquarium even if you've never been to one before.

Burn a few shots getting your camera set up. Don't take that once-in-a-lifetime shot as your first shot. Generally, fish don't just sit still so dial in a shutter speed that will reduce motion blur.

You're lucky that you won't be fighting hundreds of other people bumping into you and waiting to get to look at a fish while you're snapping shots.

Take advantage of your golden opportunity to shoot in virtual privacy.

Phil U. · December 9, 2005

Wow - very cool place for a holiday party. The exclusive access should be nice - it will allow you to take your time without being bounced around by the hordes of kids. I just saw an article on that aquarium opening - looks fantastic.

I have a few notes on technique in a thread here http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=8415

and some more examples here http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=6461

For shots through the glass I've taken a different approach using lower ISO (because I was shooting with the Sony F717) and stabilizing the camera by putting the filter-mount of the lens right up against the glass. This takes finding fish that are willing to sit still. For faster moving fish and for shots of the viewing rooms (and that wild looking tunnel) you'll definitely want to crank up the ISO but only go as high as you need to for a sharp shot.

Remember to have fun! Don't become so engrossed in the photography that you lose sight of your suroundings.

Looking forward to seeing your shots from there. That's definitely somewhere I'd like to go.

pathfinder · December 9, 2005

I have shot the Chattanooga Aquarium after dark a couple of times. It is really dark. Think ISO 1600 f2.2 1/50th - that's pretty dark. AF may be hard to achieve with your slower lenses.

Some shots captured with a 10D can be seen here - http://pathfinder.smugmug.com/gallery/28167/1

Some shots with a 1DsMkll are here - http://pathfinder.smugmug.com/gallery/917706/2/42036209

I think the wide angle lenses are not as useful for pictures of the fish themselves as a longer lens like an 50mm or so on a APS sized sensor. Full frame might go up to 100mm. Indeed, after my last rip, I decided that a 100mm macro would be the ideal lens for a full frame camera for small tropical fish, invertebrates, like shrimp, and other smaller creatures. A 50 to 75 mm lens for a 20D or D70 should be just about perfect. Take your 50mm 1.8, you WILL need the faster aperature in all probablility. Lenses slower than f4 will probably not be very useful.

The wide angle lenses may be used for images of the kids and people backlit by tanks, but probably not the smaller fish.

I was able to capture tuna, sharks, and sturgeon with a 10D and a 50mm lens.

Changing lenses in the dark can be interesting too. I found I preferred to not change lenses in a public arena with kids all around - maybe I am an old fuddy duddy

The suggestion about a microfibre cloth to clean the tank fronts is a very good one, that I resovled to do the next time I go back. The fronts of the smaller aqauria can be covered with greasy nose prints and finger prints and a microfibre cloth will be helpful in removing them and will not harm any of the aquatic denizens either.

If you use your 50mm lens - invest $5.00 in a screw in rubber lens hood. You can find these in most camera stores or online. The rubber lens hood allows you to place your lens hood right up on the glass of the aquaria themsleves and block out any stray reflections, and to stablilize your camera against movement with slower shutter speeds as well. Check your filter size - 55mm or 58mm probably - and buy a screw in rubber lens hood to fit. I always use mine in aquairium shooting.

Have fun and be sure and show us your shots!!

hollyc · December 27, 2005

Thank you to everyone who piped in with two cents on how to take the best photos in an aquarium. We had a great time and the new aquarium is truly fantastic. There were a few issues:

1. Although we had exclusive access to the entire aquarium, it was from 8:30 pm - midnight. The aquarium uses a lot of natural light and likes to simulate the natural environment as much as possible so they turn off a lot of the tank/overhead lights after dark. So ISO 1600 was required, which means a lot of noise which I'm not very good at getting rid of.

2. It's hard to take a picture of a fish with a drink in your hand and my poor husband was tired of carrying around all my stuff. My main goal was to have a good time and to take photos if my mojo was working and it wasn't really on its game that night. Could have been the alcohol...

In retrospect, I see I focused on the beluga whales a majority of the time, but they are so darn cute and graceful! I couldn't help myself. They always look like they are smiling.

Now, here are a few of my favorites:

I will definitely return during the daylight after the crowds disperse a bit. It's a very calming experience. The rest of my pictures can be found here: http://hollyclawges.smugmug.com/gallery/1056521

My next mission is to become noise's worst enemy!!

Thanks for looking.

Aquarium Photos - Need Tips!

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