First, please allow me to thank Rutt, and everyone else for your comments in this thread. This is better than any tutorial I've found about sharpening, and better than any books I "currently" own. (I'll go buy that book Rutt suggested today.) So thank you everyone.
I'm always trying to learn more about my photoshop skills, and my next skill to improve is sharpening. I've always just sharpened by "eye". I look forward to learning more about this technique.
My question, is that everyone always talks about sharpening a separate layer. What about the sharpening tool in Adobe camera RAW? That's where I've always done my sharpening, after I've applied all the other little settings I want to an image. Should I "NOT" sharpen in Adobe camera RAW? Or did I miss something in the details of this thread that discussed this?
Interestingly, I have not seen any of several pros who use Smart Sharpening routinely.
Your interest in the utility of Smart Sharpening is shared. I submit that this would be better discussed in its own separate thread, than at the end of a thread began a couple years ago.
Why not repost this in its own thread with a title that shows the readers the thread will be devoted to Smart Sharpening specifically. Maybe we can stir up some interest in it then.
Interestingly, I have not seen any of several pros who use Smart Sharpening routinely. I do not either, partly because it is so computationally demanding, that my dual G5 seems to bog down with it, while with USM on a layer with a mask, things move right along.
Maybe with the newer computers, this will change.
Its because there's nothing particularly smart about it. Bruce Fraser examined it in great detail and didn't find anything useful to incorporate into PhotoKit Sharpener. And like all manual sharpening, you're supposed to guess at the correct values by viewing an image which just doesn't work, sharpening isn't WYSIWYG and probably never will be (not until we have high resolution displays). Your display is somewhere between 72-105ppi output device, your printer is far higher than that. In the old days, the advise was to sharpen so at 100%, the image looked "slightly crunchy" whatever that means. And today, with modern ink jets, you're not going to get anywhere close to viewing the image correctly at 100% (25% is maybe a bit closer). Anyway, its a big guessing game. If you have ONE output device and media, you could "bracket" sharpening and make a print, then at viewing distance, pick the one that works for you. Some masking is also necessary (you don't want to sharpen shadows, that's where all the noise lives).
with modern ink jets, you're not going to get anywhere close to viewing the image correctly at 100% (25% is maybe a bit closer). .
I've been driving myself crazy trying to find an acceptable sharpening look...I use PhotoKit Sharpener and I was wondering if anyone has an opinion like this. I'm wondering if looking at the image at a certain size other than 100% could give me a better idea of how sharp the print will look at proper viewing distances....I know it's based on print size but I'm trying to gauge this for the largest prints available through BayPhoto and then accept what comes out at smaller sizes....33% 50% 66%????? once I get to 100% it all starts to look a bit crunchy to me?? thanks for the input!
so for Bay Photos printer ( continuous tone printer I think?) this would work also?