filter for a Tokina 12-24

Moogle Pepper · March 3, 2008

Hey I have been thinking about getting a filter for my tokina, but it has a spherical front. I read around that people had issues with attaching one to the lens when zooming out and in.

I been looking at a polarizer and a ND filter.

cmason · March 3, 2008

I have read that you need a slim poloarizer for a wide angle, but have no experience with it myself.

I have used ND filters from Cokin on my Sigma 10-20 lens, which has a similar lens profile to your Tokina. Works quite well, and I am very happy with it. Has the added bonus on fitting on my other lenses as well. They also offer a slot-loaded round polarizer, but I have not tried that yet.

claudermilk · March 3, 2008

All incorrect information. I own one, so can offer first-hand experience. The lens is intended to mount to a 1.6 rop body, and when on one a standard filter does not vignette. At least when using B+W filters (which you ought to be anyway), there is no mounting problem. I have no problems at all with mounting my B+W MRC UV and KSM CPL on my Tokina 12-24.

The Tokina lens does not have a front element protruding like the Sigma. That's part of why I chose it over the Sigma. The Tokina is an internal focus lens and does not change size when focusing; it also has a non-rotating front element and additonally does not extend when zooming.

cmason · March 3, 2008

claudermilk wrote:

The Tokina lens does not have a front element protruding like the Sigma. That's part of why I chose it over the Sigma. The Tokina is an internal focus lens and does not change size when focusing; it also has a non-rotating front element and additonally does not extend when zooming.

Hmm, my Sigma does not protrude in any significant way, though more than say my 50 1.8...certainly not near the filter threads. It is also internally focusing and the front element does not rotate or extend.

Moogle Pepper · March 3, 2008

claudermilk wrote:

All incorrect information. I own one, so can offer first-hand experience. The lens is intended to mount to a 1.6 rop body, and when on one a standard filter does not vignette. At least when using B+W filters (which you ought to be anyway), there is no mounting problem. I have no problems at all with mounting my B+W MRC UV and KSM CPL on my Tokina 12-24.

The Tokina lens does not have a front element protruding like the Sigma. That's part of why I chose it over the Sigma. The Tokina is an internal focus lens and does not change size when focusing; it also has a non-rotating front element and additonally does not extend when zooming.

Oh alright! then ... whew!

mr peas · March 3, 2008

Do you already have a UV filter on your lens? It should be the same or close to the same lenght as one in a circular/linear polarizer.

But check this out, I use a Canon 10-22mm and put on a normal Tiffen 77mm Polarizer, it does not vignette in anyway. The 10mm is wider than the 12mm so one can assume that it shouldnt vignette either.

Now HOWEVER, if using ND filters WITH a CPL filter, you should consider getting larger ND filters such as 82mm ones and then using a step-up filter ring because when you stack filters, the lenght of the lens barrel which light has to travel becomes longer; imagine putting a pringles can-tube in front of your lens elements.

Or maybe you should just invest in a Cokin filter system, it should be "P" series for 77mm filters and you can stack as many as you want without vignetting. In the end, you'll be spending just as much as you would with normal filters; if not just close enough. OR, mix the two up, Cokin and normal filters.

You can always go to a camera store and try them out on your camera. I've done this @ Ritz before, they had no problems. They may have to break the seal on the lens packaging, so make sure you're allowed to check them out and try them without having to buy them. Then...if you want it buy it there or just tell them you don't like it and buy the same one elsewhere (http://2filter.com is a great place to buy filters!).

I wish you luck, its always fun buying filters, CPL/LN and Non-grad/Grad ND filters are very useful in landscapes!

ziggy53 · March 3, 2008

According to the primary distributors for Tokina (THK Photo Products):

"[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Tokina recommends using HOYA PRO 1 Series low profile filters with the AT-X 124 PRO DX."

http://www.thkphoto.com/products/tokina/afl-00.html
http://www.thkphoto.com/company/ci-01.html[/FONT][/FONT]

I believe that "low profile" is the same as "slim" in other manufacturer's offerings.

Tee Why · March 3, 2008

I used to have the toke.
I found that with a regular thickness green seires Hoya CPL, it would vignette till 13mm.

If you use a regular polarizer that is thinner, like the B&W mentioned, it may not. Using a slim polarizer would pretty much guarentee that there would be no vignetting but they are a bit more expensive and you cannot put a lens cap over them as they do not have threads in the front IIRC.

Moogle Pepper · March 4, 2008

Yeah price is a big factor...

darn it.

claudermilk · March 4, 2008

cmason wrote:

Hmm, my Sigma does not protrude in any significant way, though more than say my 50 1.8...certainly not near the filter threads. It is also internally focusing and the front element does not rotate or extend.

I don't recall which one it was, but atthe time there was a Sigma UWA that had a fish-style front element that could not use filters. I skipped that one. Looking at their site, I cannot find it now. Moot point now it seems.

Anyway, all I can say is that from my experience I can guarantee a B+W CPL will both fit on the Tokina 12-24 fine and will not vignette at 12mm.

hvstar.net has the B+W which mitigates the cost quite a bit. So long as you are ok with ordering from a HK-based seller & using paypal.

Tee Why · March 4, 2008

Sigma 12-24 has a bulbous front element and uses a rear element filter, so does Sigma 15-30mm. Both are made for Full frames.

rpcrowe · March 4, 2008

I agree with Claudermilk again...

claudermilk wrote:

All incorrect information. I own one, so can offer first-hand experience. The lens is intended to mount to a 1.6 rop body, and when on one a standard filter does not vignette. At least when using B+W filters (which you ought to be anyway), there is no mounting problem. I have no problems at all with mounting my B+W MRC UV and KSM CPL on my Tokina 12-24.

The Tokina lens does not have a front element protruding like the Sigma. That's part of why I chose it over the Sigma. The Tokina is an internal focus lens and does not change size when focusing; it also has a non-rotating front element and additonally does not extend when zooming.

I also have the 12-24mm Tokina and use a standard B&W UV filter when I need to protect the lans. I have a standard B&W CPL and can use this on the 12-24mm with no problems except that occasionally the polarization is not constant over the entire frame when shot at 12mm and when the sun is at a certain angle.

This is neither a problem with the filter nor the lens, it is just what occasionally happens when you use any CPL with a wide angle lens.

Glenn NK · March 6, 2008

One must be careful what one reads on forums (except this one) - there is much pure nonsense being spread about.

The Tokina 12/24 is interesting in that at the 12 mm and 24 mm settings, the front element protrudes the farthest, with the 24 mm setting protruding more than at 12 mm.

As soon as I received this lens, I put a filter (UV) on it because the front element is quite vulnerable.

claudermilk · March 6, 2008

Glenn NK wrote:

One must be careful what one reads on forums (except this one) - there is much pure nonsense being spread about.

The Tokina 12/24 is interesting in that at the 12 mm and 24 mm settings, the front element protrudes the farthest, with the 24 mm setting protruding more than at 12 mm.

As soon as I received this lens, I put a filter (UV) on it because the front element is quite vulnerable.

Watchu' talking' 'bout, Willis? The front element doesn't move, and is nicely recessed at all times.

kwork · March 6, 2008

I used to have the Tokina. It won't vignette with a single slim filter but if you leave your slim UV/protection filter on and try to add a slim CPL, it will vignette at 12mm and slightly beyond, so just use 1 filter at a time.

I also tried the Cokin system just before selling this lens.
I purchased the wide-angle kit for the Cokin system which only has a single slot. This setup seemed to work fine as long as I didn't try to mount the Cokin filter holder to the UV filter. When connected directly to the lens, the Cokin single filter holder did not vignette even at 12mm. The multi-filter Cokin holder did vignette up until around 17mm or so.

The Hoya Pro CPL is thin and still has front filter threads to hold a lens cap (although that's not what I have, yet)

Glenn NK · March 6, 2008

claudermilk wrote:

Watchu' talking' 'bout, Willis? The front element doesn't move, and is nicely recessed at all times.

My Tokina is a SD 12-24 F4 (IF) DX, and the front element surely does move in and out, although not a lot. I suspect that there may be differences between different vintages. Got mine from B&H not quite a year ago, and had to wait until they re-stocked, so I would assume that it's the latest version.

At 12 mm, the centre of the front element is about 3 mm from the front edge, and at 24 mm about 2 mm from the front edge. It's farthest (about 5 mm) between the 15 and 18 mm settings.

Robinivich · March 7, 2008

You're thinking of the sigma 12-24mm f4.5-5.6 HSM EX, the widest rectilinear lens going (full format, but that's the point) it can only have filters mounted on the "lens cap" or whatever. The Tokina is an APS-C ultrawide, so much more conventional, think ~19mm in terms of field of view, this being the important part where filter threads are concerned (12mm X 1.6 in case of Canon) instead of 12mm for the sigma (reeeeaaally 12mm!)

claudermilk · March 7, 2008

Glenn NK wrote:

My Tokina is a SD 12-24 F4 (IF) DX, and the front element surely does move in and out, although not a lot. I suspect that there may be differences between different vintages. Got mine from B&H not quite a year ago, and had to wait until they re-stocked, so I would assume that it's the latest version.

At 12 mm, the centre of the front element is about 3 mm from the front edge, and at 24 mm about 2 mm from the front edge. It's farthest (about 5 mm) between the 15 and 18 mm settings.

I'm gonna have to look again. Sounds like the same lens (same markings, though the actual model name is AT-X 124 AF PRO DX), though mine's probably a year older. I could swear nothing moves on the exterior...

Just for grins, check out the PZ review: http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/Canon%20EOS%20Lens%20Tests/45-canon-eos-aps-c/272-tokina-af-12-24mm-f4-at-x-pro-dx-canon-lens-test-report--review
That's what I have & it's behavior matches Klaus' description (no movements).

Glenn NK · March 7, 2008

Just to clarify and clear up any possible confusion, it is the front element (glass) that moves; the body of the lens does not change length.

mr peas · March 7, 2008

Headaches appearing when I hear these filter issues. Get yourself a Canon 10-22mm and have no discerning problems!

Which 12mm lens can be mounted on a full frame camera, the Tokina or the Sigma counterpart?

Moogle Pepper · March 7, 2008

sigma I think.

The tokina is cheaper than the canon with comparable quality.

Glenn NK · March 7, 2008

Moogle Pepper wrote:

sigma I think.

The tokina is cheaper than the canon with comparable quality.

Truthfully, the Tokina is better built. I tested three Canon 10/22's on a tripod at our camera dealer, and although nice enough, the Tokina feels more like an "L" lens - which the 10/22 does not.

PZ also backs this notion up.

claudermilk · March 10, 2008

There are no headaches with filters on the Tokina. Read my posts.

Beating a dead horse again, the Canon & Tokina have equivalent image quality with slightly different distortion characteristics (they are nearly fishes, so they both have some). There's a 2mm difference in zoom range--it's up to each of us to decids how critical that is. IMHO, the Tokina build is reminiscent of an L lens, while the Canon is more like the kit or 50/1.8. Finally, the Tokina is about $100-150 less expensive.

Oh, and it's the Sigma that is set up for a FF sensor, all the rest are for crops. Only the Canon cannot physically mount on the FF.

Hmm, re-read Glenn's post & I can see missing a 3mm movement in the front element.

filter for a Tokina 12-24

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