Portable Power for Studio Flashes?

GJMPhoto · November 25, 2008

I shoot almost exclusively Norman studio strobes for studio work. I've been very happy with them for 20 years and own just about every adapter and modifier they sell. I have a couple of great bags I use to port a small studio with me when I go on location, but I always have to have power to plug into.

I was hoping to see Norman at Javitz last month, but they didn't show...so I'll ask you folks: Do you know of a portable power source that I can use to power my Norman power packs (I have a D2400, D1200, 12x12, and a couple of SL800s, but would only use one or two at a time) when on a location that doesn't have power?

At Javitz, the guys from Rololight were powering their tubes with a car battery and some kind of converter. I didn't get the brand of the converter. Has anyone had experience with this? Would it power a pack?

Thanks in advance,
- Gary.

ian408 · November 25, 2008

If they were using a car battery, then the flash units were likely plugged into an inverter which converts voltages from DC to AC.

I'm not familiar with the Norman stuff but Alien Bees use this inverter.

ziggy53 · November 25, 2008

Like Ian said, the Vagabond system from AlienBees should work with any delicate electronics. You should contact Norman for some input to make sure that your lights "will" work on an inverter. Some older lights and packs will not, but most newer units will. The caveat is the power supply in the lights must be tolerant to reduced current and slower charge. Some units will "time out" and recycle endlessly on an inverter. Some of the Norman units may have a "slow recycle" switch and that should help as well.

If you look at inverters other than the Vagabond units, make sure they are "pure sine wave" or "true sine wave" variety and safe for electronics. When in doubt, try the inverter first with an older AC powered, AM radio. The "modified" sine wave (cheap) inverters will produce so much noise that the radio will be unusable. Likewise, modified sine wave units produce less RMS power and would quickly overheat most charging circuits of monolights and packs.

BTW, you will not be able to use modeling lights on the inverter setup (or you would have to reduce the modeling light to a 150 watt or less.)

I have read that some outdoor photographers will use an RV with a generator for power. No specifics I'm afraid.

Some folks doing outdoor environmental photography use 2 speedlights in a custom bracket bounced into an umbrella or into a softbox. Some of the high-end speedlights allow external battery sources and that is more efficient use of battery power than inverters.

Reflectors are still used for outdoor photography as well.

My own solution is an older Sunpak 611 handle-bracket flash that I have modified to fit a universal double-diffused 36" square softbox and can also be mounted to flash into an umbrella. I can get f16 at 3 feet and f11 at 5 ft and ISO 100 with the softbox and a bit better with an umbrella. I have not had to use it in an actual situation yet. I fire it with a radio slave.

Art Scott · November 25, 2008

ziggy53 wrote:

Like Ian said, the Vagabond system from AlienBees should work with any delicate electronics. You should contact Norman for some input to make sure that your lights "will" work on an inverter. Some older lights and packs will not, but most newer units will. The caveat is the power supply in the lights must be tolerant to reduced current and slower charge. Some units will "time out" and recycle endlessly on an inverter. Some of the Norman units may have a "slow recycle" switch and that should help as well.

If you look at inverters other than the Vagabond units, make sure they are "pure sine wave" or "true sine wave" variety and safe for electronics. When in doubt, try the inverter first with an older AC powered, AM radio. The "modified" sine wave (cheap) inverters will produce so much noise that the radio will be unusable. Likewise, modified sine wave units produce less RMS power and would quickly overheat most charging circuits of monolights and packs.

BTW, you will not be able to use modeling lights on the inverter setup (or you would have to reduce the modeling light to a 150 watt or less.)

I have read that some outdoor photographers will use an RV with a generator for power. No specifics I'm afraid.

Some folks doing outdoor environmental photography use 2 speedlights in a custom bracket bounced into an umbrella or into a softbox. Some of the high-end speedlights allow external battery sources and that is more efficient use of battery power than inverters.

Reflectors are still used for outdoor photography as well.

My own solution is an older Sunpak 611 handle-bracket flash that I have modified to fit a universal double-diffused 36" square softbox and can also be mounted to flash into an umbrella. I can get f16 at 3 feet and f11 at 5 ft and ISO 100 with the softbox and a bit better with an umbrella. I have not had to use it in an actual situation yet. I fire it with a radio slave.

I agree with ZIGGY here........

I would contact Paul C Buff for info on the Vagabond system....it is his baby lock stock and capacitors

.....but he has said they were made to power any AC strobe.....but how many shots has to be determined with each individual strobe ......................

ian408 · November 25, 2008

Art Scott wrote:

.....but he has said they were made to power any AC strobe.....but how many shots has to be determined with each individual strobe ......................

He has not said that. In fact if you read the page, it specifically says:

The Vagabond II is designed specifically for powering Paul C. Buff, Inc. products and we cannot make any claim for suitability with products from other manufacturers, nor can we accept any liability for any damage that might be caused to such equipment.

That doesn't mean it won't work just that you need to do some homework and find out if your lights will.

As for a generator, I think one of the small Honda's would be a good choice. These do not free you from cords though. You'd want to calculate your power requirement before choosing. This one is a 1000 watt model and good for little things.

Art Scott · November 25, 2008

ian408 wrote:

He has not said that. In fact if you read the page, it specifically says:

That doesn't mean it won't work just that you need to do some homework and find out if your lights will.

As for a generator, I think one of the small Honda's would be a good choice. These do not free you from cords though. You'd want to calculate your power requirement before choosing. This one is a 1000 watt model and good for little things.

I appologise if it is no longer on the vagabond info page........I haven't been there in a while I had just pulled a printed info page I have on the vagabonds from when I was looking at them over 6 yrs ago.........so I guess I need to UPDATE my personal files with current info.

Something to remember about generators is that wattage painted on the side of them is normally the peak spike taht it puts out when first started up and connected to.....that intial plug in gets all the wattage.....you need to read the side panel for the operating wattage......I have been using a 5000watt genie and it's actual running wattage was just a bit over 3500 watts.......

A good friend of mine has a Kippor 1000 watt weighs in at 27pounds and is touted as the lightest of its size.......but it will not run a microwave and coffe pot at the same time......it actual running wattage was ~650..............

GJMPhoto · November 25, 2008

Guys...
Thanks for the advice. I'll look into the Buffs...seems like exactly what I'm looking for. I will check with Norman, although I have the sneaking suspicion they'll back away from saying the combo will work...out of fear of litigation should something go wrong.

I'll let the group know what I find out...

Thanks again,
- Gary.

Photogbiker · November 27, 2008

go generator
I have a motorhome with a "true sine wave" inverter to run 120V off the two large capacity 6 volt batteries (in series for 12V). Your flash set up would run the batteries down quickly, the inverter is expensive, and the whole set up with car batteries is heavy. To run that kind of firepower in the field go with the small Honda generator. They are unbelievably quiet, relatively cost effective compared to a 2000W pure sine wave inverter with batteries, and being a Honda they are bulletproof. Of course, you could buy a generator attached to a nice motorhome and have a rolling office/changing room next to the "outdoor studio".

Good luck.....

Portable Power for Studio Flashes?

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