Merchandise Photography

crayzphotography · January 17, 2008

Hello All,

Very soon I will have a very good shot at my first paid photography job. I will be photographing merchandise from clothing to small statues and figurines. The final product will be a around 400x400 in size and I need help with a few things.

Here is an example of what is being done now. I am sure it will be this exact style.

I'll give you the set up first.

I own a Canon 40D with battery grip.

I will be using 2 studio lights (unsure which brand) each with a large soft box. Every picture will have a white background and a straight on boring perspective, so composition is not an issue.

1. How do I get the best picture with that small of a resolution.
2. I have looked at the lights power supply and to trigger the flashes, which cord will I need? (the plug is a Household PC..I think)
3. Lenses will most likely be provided, but I may have a chance to purchase on the companies dime. What would you recommend?
4. Depth of field may be an issue as I will need everything in sharp focus. What aperture value would you recommend I use as a start to get something like pants or coats in sharp focus.
5. I cant tell if the shadow in this pic was added in post production, or with studio lighting.

I think that is all for now. Thank you

Sam · January 17, 2008

I have been avoiding this thread, but it looks like no one is responding.

"Your post left me with a lot of questions.

I would recommend clarifying with your client exactly what they intend to use the images for, and exactly what their expectations are. Determine color space, file format, and as much specific detail as possible with regard to what the client wants the images to look like. When you're done discussing all the details, and your clear on what is needed, put it in writing.

Are these hot lights or strobes?
Do you have experience with ether?
Power supply, extension cords should be standard for 120 Watt 60 Cycle house hold current.

If they are strobes, you can use a sync cord, a variety of wireless systems, or maybe your built in flash.

"Lenses will most likely be provided, but I may have a chance to purchase on the companies dime. What would you recommend?"

Based on the info given, I think you can use the lens you have. The 50 mm 1.8 is a great little lens, and while I am not familiar with the 17-85 mm, I believe this would fine as well.

If your looking for clean images with as much detail as reasonably possible, you will most likely be using an apertures between f11, and f16. At those smaller apertures most lenses do pretty well.

"I cant tell if the shadow in this pic was added in post production, or with studio lighting."

While I am not positive it looks like it was added. Ask the client what they would prefer, and set the lighting to achieve it at capture. You want to keep the post down to a min.

"How do I get the best picture with that small of a resolution."

I would shoot in RAW and maybe the smallest jpg. You can archive the RAW just in case.

Do a custom while balance, practice with the light set up, and work with camera picture styles to get the best results you can out of camera. For small web shots you should be able to get 95% right out of the camera ready to use. Just catalog, down size, and burd a CD.

Sam

SloYerRoll · January 21, 2008

While Sams post may seem a bit intimidating. They are great questions and these are things you should really know before you even agree to shoot something like this until you know the ropes of studio shooting.

Let us know what your answers are and I'll jump in to help out as well. If something doesn't make sense, just speak up!

Scott_Quier · January 22, 2008

A product shoot should be preceded with a very detailed specification of the client's requirements. Such specification should be included in the contract, or at least attached either in full or by reference.

For lenses: either your 50 or your 17-85 will get the job done. If you have the space, I would choose the 50 for the clean, crisp focus this lens is capable of.

1. How do I get the best picture with that small of a resolution.

Look to your contract for file resolution specifications. If they don't supply such, then ask what they need and get it in writing. If you can't supply them with a full-sized, full-resolution JPG and let their publisher down-size the photos to their needs.

2. I have looked at the lights power supply and to trigger the flashes, which cord will I need? (the plug is a Household PC..I think)

A couple of extension cords will work to get power to your lights. To trigger the lights, that strongly depends on what lights you have. Are they hot lights? If so, no triggering required. Strobes - you are almost sure to be able to use a standard PC cord. Such cord can easily be attached to wireless/optical triggers should you elect to use them.

3. Lenses will most likely be provided, but I may have a chance to purchase on the companies dime. What would you recommend?

If you can get the company to fund the purchase of a lens, any of 24-105 f/4L IS, the 24-70 f/2.8L, or the EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS would be a good choice.

4. Depth of field may be an issue as I will need everything in sharp focus. What aperture value would you recommend I use as a start to get something like pants or coats in sharp focus.

To answer this, one would need to know what focal length you will be shooting and how far from the subject you will be. In general, I would think you should be good with something in the neighborhood of f/8 or f/11. If you go too much smaller than that, you may start introducing defraction artifacts.

5. I cant tell if the shadow in this pic was added in post production, or with studio lighting.

In the examples you provide, the drop shadows look to me like the result of post processing, but when in doubt, refer to your contract for details on their requirements. If it's not there ask and get the answer in writing. In your second photo example, I can not see how one would photograph a flat object such as this and get that shadow in camera.

Something else to consider. For shots like your first example, there will be some (small) distance between your subject and your background. I doubt that you will be able to properly expose your subject and still have enough spill light to properly blow the background, even if it's white seamless. You may need to re-think your lighting requirements. I think you are right to use two lights for the subject, but I think you will need at least one more for the background.

ziggy53 · January 23, 2008

The first thing you need is a file specification which might be multiple specifications depending upon use. There will probably be minimum resolution specifications.

Typical for a catalog application would be TIFF with either clipping paths or alpha channel, potentially both. You will also need to match a color space depending upon use.

The first image you showed was probably shot in a studio with at least 4 lights. There would have probably been a white sweep background and the support which holds the garment frame would have been PhotoShopped out.

The second image was probably photographed on a product table using 3 or 4 lights and, again, a white sweep under.

The background in both images would have been digitally removed and a drop shadow added to the second image.

Here is an example of the drop shadow effect:

crayzphotography · January 29, 2008

wow... thank you all!

Sorry I have not replied with more information but I have been busy figuring this all out, and I have some answers.

Turns out all I have to use is the Novatron system with 2 strobes each with a softbox. I have been in the studio and with a very little practise I was able to produce pictures that satisfied the customer. Still dont have the job yet but that is another story, it will be mine soon. When I have the job I know I will need another light or two.

this photo was very satisfactory but in my head I keep thinking "I can do better" which I know I can. The ultimate goal is to have a picture like this with a completely white background, I can make the background white, but my photoshop skills are not good enough to make the item look normal with the white background. I am learning though.

So thanks for all the information!

here are 3 more pics just for reference, and or things I could do to improve them.

SloYerRoll · January 29, 2008

I really don't think you need another light or two. You can do some amazing things with just the lights you have. It' all depends on how you use and control that light.

If your shooting glass. You should check out this thread.

While your shots are fine. After you read this thread and really grasp what it's talking about. You'll provide images to your clients that will knock their socks off! You'll also be able to create more contrast so your glass doesn't disappear into the bg like this shot:
(make sure you read through the entire thread. There is allot of Q&A that will help you address your problems)

LiquidAir · January 29, 2008

To get a truely white background you need a separate set of background lights becasue if you try to punch your main lights up to the point where the background is white, you will overexpose your subject. Particularly when you are lighting glass, you have to remember that for your subject to be visible it has to be darker than the background which means you are mostly painting your subject with the absence of light.

To get started, make sure white your backdrop is just wide enough to fill the frame. One thing you can do is drape black cloth on the backdrop just outside the field of view of the camera. Place your subject far enough forward that none of your background lights fall on it and take a shot. At this point you should see your subject etched in gray against the background. Now bring in softbox (or two) placed carefully to reveal the form of your subjet and dial the power until the highlight it generates is just barely visible.

pathfinder · November 28, 2008

Frequently, the white background is lit from the rear, and the subject is far enough in front of it, to avoid light blooming around the edges of the subject.

For small objects, a large softbox itself can be the white background as seen here

Merchandise Photography

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