The day started leftfooted. Couldnt fall asleep last night, so woke up late, credit card machine at the hotel didnt work, so i lost 10 vital minutes, ultimately i reached the harbor at 7:31, the boat was at 7:30. So I had to wait for the boat at 9am to finally cross the Baltic Sea.
Fortunately, bad mood, as well as unfortunately good mood, doesn't last for ever. This time responsible for the change was the fantastic town of Tallinn.
The Marco Polo guide I got for the Baltic part of the trip (good bye, Lonely Planet! and thank you, done your job well) says: "who goes to the Baltics without expectations will leave there convinced (s)he has found a treasure."
I agree, and that after only 12 hours in Tallinn.
I had heard the city is special, that it is "trendy" now to go for a week-end to Tallinn, for partying. A friend of mine went with a group of boyz. Later I found that NY Times is calling it nothing less than "world partying capital".
So I was curious.
And, they don't exaggerate. Tallinn is one of the most charming cities i've seen. Couldnt believe it. Sort of a Sighisoara
plus Braşov
plus Sibiu,
together
and squared, to a capital with a pink parliament.
The football team is called Flora Tallinn, and it fits. A city like a flower.
The Old Town is remarcably well maintained/restored, and larger than most seen so far. Two parts, Downtown, newer and larger, and Uptown, older, to the right in the panorama below.
It charmed me from the first steps on a sidestreet close to the hostel.
Soon I reached the City Hall square, with apparently the only Gothic city hall remaining in Europe, from 1452.
I soon notice something's up in the square. First I saw people with strange clothing,
then the scene, behind.
And then the noise, singing and dancing:
Catalan Days in Tallinn, that's what it was.
I left them to their stuff and went on to buy a train ticket to my next destination. That's when I found out that I cannot buy a train ticket, because - THEY DO NOT HAVE TRAINS. So, for the record, for traveling in the Baltix, use the bus. Bookingestonia.com have the headquarters right next to the main square in Tallinn.
There are 2 King Kong syndrome spots to be checked. First, in the City Hall tower
watching people having fun downstairs
plenty.
Second, the tower of this church
the highest observation point in town.
But till then, lotsa interesting places, like this pharmacy
selling medicine since 1422.
Bought a pair of napkins and took a picture of a fully catalan terrace.
I dont' know if the iberics did it, or if it's like that all the time, but i had the feeling i plunged from the beautiful and cold North into a warm and friendly city, equally clean and well-maintained, just a touch more "homey". Maybe because it reminded me of places from home, or rather of how places from home could look if well-maintained.
At the Dominican monastery you enter through a passage
which takes you
to one of the favorite photgraphing spots. Obviously Japanese-conquered, who were discussing with some Chinese in English, fraternizing for a reciprocal picturetaking.
I waited for them to finish
to take my picturesque toll.
Another nice thing is the way objectives are explained. So you know what you're dealing with.
I've taken about another hundred thousand pictures on streets,
but I won't post them all here, they are pretty much along the same lines,
of cobbled stone.
I'll try to focus on important things, like the Blackfriar society house. The reason to remember this will be explained in the next episode.
Finally got to the second KKS point, a church used to be the tallest building in the world at some stage (till it burned down), and started climbing
A LOT. Till under the roof,
for the panorama,
some details of the old town, with defense towers,
the harbor,
roofs,
etc. Worth it, as usual.
Further on, another thing to remember, also in connection to the next episode, the Three Sisters, guild houses from around 1400, impecably restored.
Then Fat Margaret, a tower that fat that it didnt fit in the picture,
so I had to step back to get it with all her mighty belly.
Back,
along the city walls
towards the gate to Uptown.
This lady had a very good sales technique - hi, where are you from, want a postcard? It worked.
Upstairs, the first attraction is the Orthodox Cathedral, made by Russians around 1800.
Down below, a guy was teaching tourists to shoot the bow (is that how you call it?)
10 tries, 10 EUR... rather expensive... but too tempting.
It's not THAT easy.
Moving on, the Long Hermann stands tall behind the pink parliament, the highest defense tower.
And that's about all of the old town.
For this Russian palace I went out of the old town for ~2km, thru da rain.
Meanwhile, catalans had it going,
but i left them to look for other corners reminding me of my home town,
which were plenty.
Evening was smuggling itself in, so i went back to the main square, where another catalan band was just about to start the show.
A fun dialogue followed - the band leader could speak only catalan, and 3 english words: “dance, very, easy”, and was trying to teach the crowd how to dance catalan dances. Shortly after, a girl showed up, translating into estonian. Problem is, to my mind there were VERY FEW estonians in the square - the majority were tourists who understood estonian exactly as much as catalan. Nevertheless, they eventually got how this dancing thing works.
After a while, the Tall People joined forces with the dancing crowd,
so I left them in charge,
and went to look for some foodishness. When I came back, it was already dark,
so I finally half-heartedly went back to my room in the hostel, where I spent a few short hours in the bed on the right:
Good night.
The best thing about a photo is the journey that brought you to it.
First impressions of Latvia were Finlandlike: lakes and forests. At least that's as much I could see from the bus, when waking up just before arriving in Riga.
First surprise, in the bus station - i can't draw money, from 2 different cash machines. Hm.
It's raining.
Maybe that's why people on streets seem less joyful than estonians. Another difference is - as opposed to Scandinavia, here people stare at you more. For no apparent reason, with no apparent other intention, just checking people out openly - which I dont remember seeing in Scandinavia. Maybe i wasnt paying attention.
Looked for the hostel, thru the rain, found the building, it said in the email it wd be refurbished. And it was, the facade
while in the back...
With the hostel it's exactly the other way around. Entrance at the back is not the most inviting, but inside everything is refurbished, clean and very orange. i had read it's one of the best hostels, called FriendlyFunFrank's, and it is. The first question from the staff was if i wanted a free beer .
They are quite surprised when i politely decline, but recover quickly and offer alternatives, so i settle for a big glass of water, to restore damaged hydration balance.
The girls are very friendly, they tell me all about the hostel mechanics, and the city and all. Room will be ready only in the afternoon, so i leave luggage and hit da road.
It stopped raining, and I ask a kind request in my mind for it to stay like this. I dont even need sun, i said, just please dont rain.
It didnt rain.
At the tourist office, a map with "Riga on foot", and here we go.
Parliament Square is at 5 mins walking distance from the hostel. I'm sitting there now, its a quarter to 10 pm, night is falling smoothly.
But long before that, the Parliament,
and one of the most important monuments - voila, the Blackfriar house - sounds familiar? same society as the one in Tallinn, bigger house.
Moving on, picturesque streets,
monumental streets,
wide,
narrow,
very narrow,
squares,
with carriages,
arches,
on both sides,
and very different houses. From houses wIth cats,
to the "3 brothers", brothers of the "3 sisters" in Tallinn.
Dome square,
St. Peter's church,
where i would have liked to climb the tower, but i had no money. And my card wasnt working with any cash machine. What to do? Used the credit card to get some 20 lats out - by the way, exchange rate is 7 lats for 10 EUR. Also changed my last Estonian crowns into lats, for 40 crowns I received 1.37 lats - enough to buy some food though!
So I ate Latvian "sarmale", actually one sarma, huge, about 3 times as the ones at home, with side dish, salad, pancake as desert - everything for 4.5 lats. Around 6 EUR. One would starve in Scandinavia with 6 EUR.
The restaurant, if interested, is called Lido, it's a chain, very popular, local food. Good. And it is NOT the cheapest place, that's Pensmils, on Kalku street, if interesteet.
Anyway, being cash-rich now, i managed to climb the tower, to soothe the King Kong syndrome with a panorama.
Entered the Dome, with a cool side gallery,
bells
and the old weatherrooster
which has been now replaced by a new one on top of the building
Then, the map was leading out of the old town. I thought of taking a shortcut to avoid the long walk, but then i thought - maybe they know what they're doing. So let's go. Oh, and they knew. I reached thus the famous Art-Nouveau houses, apparently the biggest and most well-preserved collection of the like in Europe. For example, these are the Economic and Law school.
And there are plenty more!
Mind-boggling.
I also encountered a few areas which reminded me of a Bucharest how it ought to be if people wd invest a bit in its preservation.
The Orthodox church is spectacular, both outside
and inside,
women are wearing headscarfs in the church, just like home.
Monument of independence
was the last stop before being back in the old town
where I wondered what on earth are the Bremer Stadtmusikanten doing
here.
But then I needed a power-nap, executed in the park, before the last initiative, crossing the bridge. For some panoramas with the city. Like these:
...
If Tallinn was a cute and merry town, Riga seemed on the monumental side. Even "Royal", although apparently they had only one king in their history. Large city, pompous metropolitan air. Indeed it is the largest Baltic capital, around 900000 inhabitants. Not as extensively restored as Tallinn, but with some key points well taken care of. Very vibrant city, in total contrast with the somewhat dull image I had about the country previously. Donno why. Maybe it was just me. Well, that image changed, fundamentally.
The best thing about a photo is the journey that brought you to it.
I'm in the Eurolines bus Riga-Vilnius, and have wireless internet wireless. I can't imagine how that works, but it works.
I have no idea what to expect in/from Vilnius. I have heart nothing about the town, except for the football team Jalghiris Vilnius, which sounds like something industrial, grey. The Marco Polo guide says it is a beautiful baroque town - i'm curious.
...
On the way from the railway station to the hostel, it looks very familiar, very much like home - like the non-refurbished part of Sibiu. Old small houses, shabby-looking pavement, building site noise, dust.
The hostel, top notch. Very "cool", refurbished, good taste, funny (sample note on the wall: "the receptionist is away for 30 mins, or sleeping. In the latter case, you can try waking her up." Or - "your mother doesnt work here, so be so kind and clean up after yourselves.")
Baltic hostels are the best i've seen on the entire trip. New, clean, sharp, creative, with personality. Impressed.
I ask the non-sleeping receptionist for permission to leave some luggage here till the evening - even though I am cancelling the reservation, since I found an overnight bus to Warszawa. "No problem".
So I gladly leave the big backpack and am on my way to the city - but I turn back, forgot the phone. I check the pocket where I remember putting it this morning - it's not there. Damn. Check again. Nothing. Take out the jeans from the big backpack - nothing. Shit, I must have forgotten it in Riga. Merda. Take out the laptop, open skype to call Riga, computer blocked. Shit. Reboot. Wait. I have only half a day here, and it's fading away before it started. Finally computer works, I call Riga, ask them to look for the phone, will call back. In the meantime I write them an email with the address where to send it if found. Little hope though. I'm thinking - damn, right at the end... but - every achievement needs a sacrifice... for this trip, it seems to have been the phone. so i go on the website to cancel the phone card - then a thought comes - let's call myself, to help those people in Riga find it. I call from skype, and... hear the ringing next to me.
It was in the tiny pocket of the small backpack, the one specially made for mobile phones. It was the only place I hadn't checked.
Releaved, I call those guys in Riga and tell them to not bother, and am finally on my way. 6 hours left in Vilnius.
On the way to the centre, I see an old tall church tower. Nothing on the map about it. The church looks old and unrefurbished,
but otherwise quite impressive.
but - let's have a look inside. And - couldnt help a loud "wow" when entering.
The echo spread in the entire room, which was EMPTY. No single tourist! When I took this picture, you could hear the click like a gun being armed. Awesome.
Ok, now i get the "baroque town" thing. And why they are "European cultural capital of 2009".
This "all saints" church was in no brochure, so I wondered how stuff that IS in the brochure looks like...
Well, let's see.
I get to some sort of square - no name on the map, none on the streets,
but it has an "important street" feel, so I start walking upwards.
Left and right, passages, some monumental,
some discreet.
Through one of them, the Orthodox church, one of the few of its kind in baroque style. Outside, nothing spectacular,
but inside...
You see green.
Moving on to the Dawn Gate, an emblematic praying place, visited by the
Pope too
So i climbed up to see the famous painting
and the spectacular silver hearts, which I don't get the meaning of, but that shd be no big issue.
Nice view from upstairs,
So I get down, first to see the medieval gate from the other side,
and then back
towards the centre, along other majestic buildings, like StKazimir's church.
Somehow, it seems i made it to the town hall square.
I'm not going to depict all churches seen - it seemed to be the main ocupation of medieval Lithuanians, to build majestic baroque churches. What they didn't build is a walking area - only a small part of this street is dedicated exclusively to pedestrians, among which this mother-daughter duo.
Moving on, when taking this picture
I didn't know I was going to come back, but first, along many open-air boutiques
with amber
I ended up at the Cathedral.
at the edge of what seem to be newer districts - but, no time for them today.
Next, back on the narrow street I mentioned earlier, to see this famous church couple, one more Gothic than the other.
Then, with ambition, up to the Gediminas tower,
for the traditional panorama shot, with new
and old Vilnius.
Just that, standing on the very tower, it is missing from the picture. So I climbed the hill of these 3 crosses
through the woods, which was nice, albeit resulting panorama was not much of an improvement. More impressive was this non-refurbished church
which reminded me that many of these buildings had been transformed in deposits during Communism.
For the way back I chose a detour through the Užupis republic, sort of a Copenhagian Christiania, a bunch of hippie artists declaring independence in their neighbahood, they have a parliament, constitution and president. From what I've seen, it looks... picturesque,
overall seemingly slightly in a better shape than Christiania,
and less shady.
The way out is locked. The whole bridge.
Donno why, but it's well locked.
Vilnius used to have a large Jewish population. Around 100000 maybe. After the short nazi occupation, 175 survived. One hundred seventy five.
This is how the former Jewish ghetto looks today.
In this house on the right, an auntie was weaving, with an ooooold, old machine.
Out of the ghetto, about to head back to the centre, but before that I look back, and see - this.
Church number 325 (no idea, but i wdnt be surprised). Let's check it out, looks good from the outside. And, it turns out, from the inside.
Back to the main square, again very similar to Sibiu (the refurbished part, too),
towards the last observation point, an insider tip from the MP guides. On the way there, to a bastion as fat as fat Margaret from Tallinn,
I realized I lost my sunglasses. So, the sacrifice thing happened, after all. I liked those sunglasses, we've been through a lot together. Kept a silent moment in their memory, and moved on.
The MP guidebook was encouraging us to stop and take a peek inside courtyards, to discover hidden treasures of the old town, so I did that
on the way back to the hostel. Where I spent some time loading up pictures, fixing a picasa bug that crashed my computer 2 times, took my time... and almost missed the bus. Had to do a heavy run with my by now heavy backpacks through heavy rain. Caught it, eventually, and have been writing this since. No wireless here though, so since battery's running out, I'll make the first attempt at sleeping in a half-way upright position.
Goodbye, oh, Baltics. I know you 3 don't like to be categorized under this common denominator, but I'm tired now, so don't be offended. Marco Polo was right, you were a hidden treasure.
The best thing about a photo is the journey that brought you to it.
Call of the North (25): Ćeść, Warszawa!
Aug 5th, 2008
Expectations and "first contact" were pretty grey, but changed radically as soon as I left the hostel. I had no idea where I was, so I went to the right, where the Medias-fan at the hostel told me that i would find tourist info.
And up the street it was - wow.
Large, clean, shiny, old. This is no Warsaw Pact atmosphere. I entered the big church right upfront, refurbished, impressive. Later I found out that I was on one of the most important streets in Warsaw, Krakowska-something,
sort of a "Calea Victoriei" in Bucharest. Sort of.
The guy from tourist information was very friendly, told me how to chirp on polish a few things - it sounds really cool when you're actually saying it .
On we go on Krakowska street,
which used to connect 2 palaces in the old times (well, that's how they built the first streets everywhere anyway),
on the way being fascinated, as usual, by the organpipe in catholic churches.
One of the two palaces was the royal palace, the red one on the right
which marks the entrance to the old town.
I had no idea they have something like THIS in Warsaw.
This old square is enchanting, one can not stop taking pictures.
I didnt stay long tho, as I had no money, cash machines didnt want to give me, so I went to find a bank. For to do that I had to ask the following question to the lady at a tourist desk:“Przepraszam, gdzie jest jedena banka?” - and - victory! Although she spoke English, since she was working at a tourism info center, she answered in Polish! Of course I didnt understand a word, but at least it was my first beginning of a conversation in Polish.
Ladies at the bank didn't speak English, and sent me to another bank, towards the "new" city center, where I ultimately managed to talk to someone who could help me. The guy let me call the bank at home and complain, they said - your card must be broken. You have to come home to fix it. Great. I'm in Poland, dude. Tough luck, dude. Take money from your credit card. Right, so you can charge me. Right. Shit. Right.
There's no other option though, so I took 100 zloty off my credit card. Fortunately at least that worked.
Cost me a lot of time, since i chose to walk all the way, to get a feeling of the "non-touristic" side of the city, a quite familiar post-communist sight
with a modern touch.
I happened to pass by another area of interest, the "theatre street", with national theatre, opera, city hall etc. lined up,
followed by New Warsaw
and the inevitable monument you find in nearly every former Communist country.
Then I had to go to the railway station twice. Once to book a seat for the next trip, and the second time because they didnt want to do it without seeing my interrail ticket, which of course I didnt have with me.
The Łazienki Królewskie park was not exactly on the way, but I made a detour to see it, down on Nowy Swiat,
(under some threatening clouds)
till i reached a park very similar to Herastrau,
with Chopin's monument,
then a quick look at the "water castle", sort of a Polish Sans-Souci,
and back. Quickly, to catch the last opening hour in the tower. Windddyyyyy and cooooold upstairs, quickly a few pix
And back down, to old-town,
to the famous and still gorgeous square,
on through the gate
towards the "newer" part of "old town".
I noticed the very high number of monumental churches one next to the other, I wonder if they have full house on Sundays. I ask, and people say they do, it's full, people are waiting outside and listening to the sermon on speakers...
Quick historical note: The old city centre is an UNESCO monument, and has been REBUILT ENTIRELY after WW2. That's because after a riot in Warsaw, nazis decided to destroy the city systematically. They managed to blow 80% of the buildings up.
This street exhibition on Krakowska street shows some interesting beforeandafters.
In the entirely rebuilt old square, the Mermaid is a central figure, one of the symbols of the city,
they say she's the sister of the one in Copenhagen .
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It got cold, so I headed home, when I saw the royal palace in a strange light
and realized - it's the sun! It was looking back. I looked back too, to see one of the sunsets with the most spectacular and diverse evolution:
Enchanted, I went back to the main square to see how it looks at night, and it was worth it - it was bathing in a very special light
Unfortunately, this is where battery ran out, completely. Good night.
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Call of the North (27): Krakow, Pearl of Poland Aug 7th, 2008
In the movie “The Terminal”, Tom Hanks plays a Polish man who gets blocked in an airport terminal because in his country a separatist group declares independence of the “Republic of Krakozhia”, with guns and turbulences. I still don’t get it. Is it a joke on the Polacks? If it is, i think it’s weak. If it’s not a joke, then it’s plain stupid. Especially considering how the city of Krakow (in Latin, Cracovia) looks like in reality.
It’s 8pm, sunny, warm. I just ordered a fruit ice cream cocktail, after I “liquidated” a creme cake – it’s the last night, i’m splurging. 3 hours from now my train is leaving, on the long way home, but before that, there is Krakow and then another story to be told.
…
8:30pm
I ate the ice cream, and took a stroll through the square. Feeling kinda nostalgic.
Now that i’m a few hours from leaving, it’s not that I regret, but i feel nostalgic. In the last 4 weeks, all these strangers i am watching now passing by, taking pictures of themselves with the towers, watching a ukrainian-polish concert, riding in horses carriages, sitting under the statue of their national poet, or simply getting on with their lives – all these people have been, in a way, part of my life in the last month. I will leave them behind in about 2 hours.
...
Hostel Flamingo is not very visibly marked (they’re not allowed to put big signs on historic buildings), but was declared the best on hostelworld.com in 2007. Indeed.
Room’s not ready, so I leave luggage as usual, applying the “no backpack while strolling” scenario, just cameras to my belt, pockets full of maps, hands and back free.
I had reserved a walking tour ticket. Thought it’s a good way to get the pulse, given the short time. Till 2pm when tour was starting i had time on my hands, enough to satisfy the King Kong syndrome in the first tower that I saw. This one.
It offers a good view on the Big Square,
about which I had heard it’s the largest in Medieval Europe. Doesnt seem THAT large, but ok, if they say so. Further back, Wawel castle, a place I need to see.
I go down and start walking around the big building on the right, when I suddenly realize that I had seen only half of the square! There’s another half beyond the big building, which takes the centre! Aha, now you’re talkin!
It’s huge . The guide will tell us that it is in competition to Venice’s San Marco for the status of “largest in Europe”, de difference being minimal.
A few more pix i shoot quickly before tour starts: a pregnant lady photographing,
a thinking statue,
the “small square” (well, a relative term in this case)
and a new breed of horsecarriagedriver…esses.
Then quickly 2 “sarmale” at one of the stands, when I realize there are no better sarmale in the world than those mad by my mama, not in Latvia, not in Poland. Sorry guys.
Tour starts. Highlights:
Jagellonian University,
2nd or 3rd old in the world,
University church, the only one wearing its original baroque,
a photo exhibition on Krakow 20 years ago vs today.
I asked the guide where did they get the money from for these massive restauration works. It’s UNESCO patrimony, then the EU, government, other partners. Still, I’m amazed – the city is huge, not fully refurbished, but still, to a large extent. Must have costed a fortune. We’d need to do that at home too… It probably makes a difference in your daily life mood to live in a city that looks like this.
People from Brasov and Sibiu should know.
From the 41 towers, 3 are left, the rest being demolished in the very pragmatic 19th century (”they stand in our way”). Today you see only where they used to be.
The episcopy building is important since this is where John Paul left from to go to Rome. To become a Pope.
Nowadays there seems to be an entire “cult” around “JP2″, every community wants a statue, big business there for sculptors. He is one of the 2 great personalities of Krakow, the other one being Kopernikus, who studied here 3 years, and, as an anecdote, apparently was not speaking Polish at all. During that time Poland was split between different empires, and in the North where he came from they were speaking German..
Further on down the street…lets,
up to the Wawel castle, with the Royal Cathedral, where all Polish kings were crowned, even after the capital was moved to Warsaw (of course, big rivalry between the two cities, Warsaw is the economic centre, Krakow the cultural/intellectual – i.e., warsawians are the “materialists”, krakowians the “lazy”).
The cathedral is a rare architectonic melting pot,
apparently whoever had enough money could build a chapel here. I find the crazy style mix cool, in its own way. They say long ago a dragon used to live around here. King Krak killed it, by feeding it a sheep filled with sulfur. It got thirsty, went to drink water from the river Wisla, but water with sulfur… it exploded.
What does it have to do with the church? At the entrance there are a few bones which they say are from the dragon (!). Scientists and non-romantics say they tested and they’re from a mammoth and a prehistoric whale, but who believes them anyway. What surprised me was catholic tolerance to pagan legends, putting dragon bones above the church entrance.
Next to the cathedral is the royal palace,
former royal headquarters, until austrian occupiers turned it into a garrison.
That’s where the tour ends. I went alone to Kazimierz, the Jewish neighborhood. Before WW2, 100000 Jews lived here. About 60 were left thereafter. In Poland, from 3.5 Million, around 20000 survived.
The “ghetto” is not as spectacular as the one from Vilnius, a bit more run down,
so i didnt spend much time and returned to the old city centre
and to the main square, only to witness a… bycicle race!
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I didn’t stay till the end, went ahead on Florianski street,
towards the gate with one of the square towers
and on to the barbican (=fortified tower).
Then back,
in the evening light
at this obscure bar
where the guide had told us there are good pancakes. I enter, dzien dobry (hello), they answer kindly, then – i’m stuck. The menu is in polish. The blonde lady, NOT A WORD in english. Not even “yes” or “no”. Not only that she wasn’t speaking, but she noticed I am struggling to figure out the menu – couldn’t care less. I asked her a few things – answered in polish, on a bored tone. Other people at tables didnt care either. She raised her shoulders and went to the back, to her business, leaving me pray to dilemmas. I wanted a salty pancake, for dinner. The first one on the list was with yogurtowy and orzechami. I figured out yogurtowy, but asked what is orzechami. She answered, I quote, ““orzechami”. Empty look, not hostile, not friendly, just sheepish. And then continued to clean the desk.
Annoyed, I decided to take the orzechami thing. It was walnut. And sweet. GRRRR. I ate gruntling, and then moved on to the lactobarul at the corner.
The menu…
Of course the lady spoke no single word in any other language. I can not believe i am the ONLY tourist ever entering those locations. Impossible. Still, I asked her what the first item on the list meant, she raised her shoulders and… retreated frantically!! I couldnt believe it! What is it with former Communist Europe and services?!?
I got mad and asked for ukrainian borsh, that I understood from the menu. In 20 words they explained “we’re out of that”. “Then what do you have?” “Žurek”. Sort of a borsh too, a sour soup not too sour, with… salami. Oh well. It was so-so.
Lots of things happen in the Big Square, many at the same time – there is room. On half of the square there was a polish-ukrainian festival goin on, on a stage where various people performed. At night there was a ukrainian music band, a teacher and a few teenagers, cymbalons, violines – beautiful. Slavic music has a touch of magic. Unfortunately, no more battery for filming, so all i have are pictures.
It was getting dark. One more stroll around the square
to see the fire dancers on the other side.
And with that, go to sleep. As an overall impression, Krakow (also) exceeded expectations. Although not fully refurbished like Prague – you can still find grey houses in the centre,
it has a special charm to it. Mainly driven by the formidable Big Square. As opposed to Warsaw, the city escaped destruction during the war! Maybe because this was the headquarters of the Nazi force in Poland. Apparently they mined the entire town, to tear it down when they were leaving, but the “button has never been pushed”. Still, this didn’t contribute much to saving the reputation of the respective nazi governor, and the next episode will show why.
To end the story on Krakow though, upon return that afternoon from the thing i had to do, i climbed the church tower
to see the trumpet player play. I had heard him yesterday too, at every hour, didnt know what it was about, he is playing an interrupted tune in all 4 directions.
A real trumpet player.
The tune is also the hour signal on Radio Poland. it is interrupted because apparently while the trumpet player was announcing the Tartar invasion in 1241 he was killed in the middle of the tune.
Today there’s a team of trumpet players who play in turn. You can get an autograph from them .
The church itself is impressive too.
Sitting there i suddenly wondered: if the project of this church would have been presented to Jesus himself, what would He have said? Would he have approved it?…
In the evening it was only relaxing in the big square, strolling,
watching some polish rap,
sat down,
wrote (a part of this story), ate the ice cream mentioned above, strolled again, then went to the hotel, carefully arranged luggage, and then headed for the railway station, at a relaxed pace.
So relaxed that I missed the train.
The best thing about a photo is the journey that brought you to it.
Comments
Aug 2
The day started leftfooted. Couldnt fall asleep last night, so woke up late, credit card machine at the hotel didnt work, so i lost 10 vital minutes, ultimately i reached the harbor at 7:31, the boat was at 7:30. So I had to wait for the boat at 9am to finally cross the Baltic Sea.
Fortunately, bad mood, as well as unfortunately good mood, doesn't last for ever. This time responsible for the change was the fantastic town of Tallinn.
The Marco Polo guide I got for the Baltic part of the trip (good bye, Lonely Planet! and thank you, done your job well) says: "who goes to the Baltics without expectations will leave there convinced (s)he has found a treasure."
I agree, and that after only 12 hours in Tallinn.
I had heard the city is special, that it is "trendy" now to go for a week-end to Tallinn, for partying. A friend of mine went with a group of boyz. Later I found that NY Times is calling it nothing less than "world partying capital".
So I was curious.
And, they don't exaggerate. Tallinn is one of the most charming cities i've seen. Couldnt believe it. Sort of a Sighisoara
plus Braşov
plus Sibiu,
together
and squared, to a capital with a pink parliament.
The football team is called Flora Tallinn, and it fits. A city like a flower.
The Old Town is remarcably well maintained/restored, and larger than most seen so far. Two parts, Downtown, newer and larger, and Uptown, older, to the right in the panorama below.
It charmed me from the first steps on a sidestreet close to the hostel.
Soon I reached the City Hall square, with apparently the only Gothic city hall remaining in Europe, from 1452.
I soon notice something's up in the square. First I saw people with strange clothing,
then the scene, behind.
And then the noise, singing and dancing:
Catalan Days in Tallinn, that's what it was.
I left them to their stuff and went on to buy a train ticket to my next destination. That's when I found out that I cannot buy a train ticket, because - THEY DO NOT HAVE TRAINS. So, for the record, for traveling in the Baltix, use the bus. Bookingestonia.com have the headquarters right next to the main square in Tallinn.
There are 2 King Kong syndrome spots to be checked. First, in the City Hall tower
watching people having fun downstairs
plenty.
Second, the tower of this church
the highest observation point in town.
But till then, lotsa interesting places, like this pharmacy
selling medicine since 1422.
Bought a pair of napkins and took a picture of a fully catalan terrace.
I dont' know if the iberics did it, or if it's like that all the time, but i had the feeling i plunged from the beautiful and cold North into a warm and friendly city, equally clean and well-maintained, just a touch more "homey". Maybe because it reminded me of places from home, or rather of how places from home could look if well-maintained.
At the Dominican monastery you enter through a passage
which takes you
to one of the favorite photgraphing spots. Obviously Japanese-conquered, who were discussing with some Chinese in English, fraternizing for a reciprocal picturetaking.
I waited for them to finish
to take my picturesque toll.
Another nice thing is the way objectives are explained. So you know what you're dealing with.
I've taken about another hundred thousand pictures on streets,
but I won't post them all here, they are pretty much along the same lines,
of cobbled stone.
I'll try to focus on important things, like the Blackfriar society house. The reason to remember this will be explained in the next episode.
Finally got to the second KKS point, a church used to be the tallest building in the world at some stage (till it burned down), and started climbing
A LOT. Till under the roof,
for the panorama,
some details of the old town, with defense towers,
the harbor,
roofs,
etc. Worth it, as usual.
Further on, another thing to remember, also in connection to the next episode, the Three Sisters, guild houses from around 1400, impecably restored.
Then Fat Margaret, a tower that fat that it didnt fit in the picture,
so I had to step back to get it with all her mighty belly.
Back,
along the city walls
towards the gate to Uptown.
This lady had a very good sales technique - hi, where are you from, want a postcard? It worked.
Upstairs, the first attraction is the Orthodox Cathedral, made by Russians around 1800.
Down below, a guy was teaching tourists to shoot the bow (is that how you call it?)
10 tries, 10 EUR... rather expensive... but too tempting.
It's not THAT easy.
Moving on, the Long Hermann stands tall behind the pink parliament, the highest defense tower.
And that's about all of the old town.
For this Russian palace I went out of the old town for ~2km, thru da rain.
Meanwhile, catalans had it going,
but i left them to look for other corners reminding me of my home town,
which were plenty.
Evening was smuggling itself in, so i went back to the main square, where another catalan band was just about to start the show.
A fun dialogue followed - the band leader could speak only catalan, and 3 english words: “dance, very, easy”, and was trying to teach the crowd how to dance catalan dances. Shortly after, a girl showed up, translating into estonian. Problem is, to my mind there were VERY FEW estonians in the square - the majority were tourists who understood estonian exactly as much as catalan. Nevertheless, they eventually got how this dancing thing works.
After a while, the Tall People joined forces with the dancing crowd,
so I left them in charge,
and went to look for some foodishness. When I came back, it was already dark,
so I finally half-heartedly went back to my room in the hostel, where I spent a few short hours in the bed on the right:
Good night.
Aug 3
First impressions of Latvia were Finlandlike: lakes and forests. At least that's as much I could see from the bus, when waking up just before arriving in Riga.
First surprise, in the bus station - i can't draw money, from 2 different cash machines. Hm.
It's raining.
Maybe that's why people on streets seem less joyful than estonians. Another difference is - as opposed to Scandinavia, here people stare at you more. For no apparent reason, with no apparent other intention, just checking people out openly - which I dont remember seeing in Scandinavia. Maybe i wasnt paying attention.
Looked for the hostel, thru the rain, found the building, it said in the email it wd be refurbished. And it was, the facade
while in the back...
With the hostel it's exactly the other way around. Entrance at the back is not the most inviting, but inside everything is refurbished, clean and very orange. i had read it's one of the best hostels, called FriendlyFunFrank's, and it is. The first question from the staff was if i wanted a free beer
They are quite surprised when i politely decline, but recover quickly and offer alternatives, so i settle for a big glass of water, to restore damaged hydration balance.
The girls are very friendly, they tell me all about the hostel mechanics, and the city and all. Room will be ready only in the afternoon, so i leave luggage and hit da road.
It stopped raining, and I ask a kind request in my mind for it to stay like this. I dont even need sun, i said, just please dont rain.
It didnt rain.
At the tourist office, a map with "Riga on foot", and here we go.
Parliament Square is at 5 mins walking distance from the hostel. I'm sitting there now, its a quarter to 10 pm, night is falling smoothly.
But long before that, the Parliament,
and one of the most important monuments - voila, the Blackfriar house - sounds familiar? same society as the one in Tallinn, bigger house.
Moving on, picturesque streets,
monumental streets,
wide,
narrow,
very narrow,
squares,
with carriages,
arches,
on both sides,
and very different houses. From houses wIth cats,
to the "3 brothers", brothers of the "3 sisters" in Tallinn.
Dome square,
St. Peter's church,
where i would have liked to climb the tower, but i had no money. And my card wasnt working with any cash machine. What to do? Used the credit card to get some 20 lats out - by the way, exchange rate is 7 lats for 10 EUR. Also changed my last Estonian crowns into lats, for 40 crowns I received 1.37 lats - enough to buy some food though!
So I ate Latvian "sarmale", actually one sarma, huge, about 3 times as the ones at home, with side dish, salad, pancake as desert - everything for 4.5 lats. Around 6 EUR. One would starve in Scandinavia with 6 EUR.
The restaurant, if interested, is called Lido, it's a chain, very popular, local food. Good. And it is NOT the cheapest place, that's Pensmils, on Kalku street, if interesteet.
Anyway, being cash-rich now, i managed to climb the tower, to soothe the King Kong syndrome with a panorama.
Entered the Dome, with a cool side gallery,
bells
and the old weatherrooster
which has been now replaced by a new one on top of the building
Then, the map was leading out of the old town. I thought of taking a shortcut to avoid the long walk, but then i thought - maybe they know what they're doing. So let's go. Oh, and they knew. I reached thus the famous Art-Nouveau houses, apparently the biggest and most well-preserved collection of the like in Europe. For example, these are the Economic and Law school.
And there are plenty more!
Mind-boggling.
I also encountered a few areas which reminded me of a Bucharest how it ought to be if people wd invest a bit in its preservation.
The Orthodox church is spectacular, both outside
and inside,
women are wearing headscarfs in the church, just like home.
Monument of independence
was the last stop before being back in the old town
where I wondered what on earth are the Bremer Stadtmusikanten doing
here.
But then I needed a power-nap, executed in the park, before the last initiative, crossing the bridge. For some panoramas with the city. Like these:
...
If Tallinn was a cute and merry town, Riga seemed on the monumental side. Even "Royal", although apparently they had only one king in their history. Large city, pompous metropolitan air. Indeed it is the largest Baltic capital, around 900000 inhabitants. Not as extensively restored as Tallinn, but with some key points well taken care of. Very vibrant city, in total contrast with the somewhat dull image I had about the country previously. Donno why. Maybe it was just me. Well, that image changed, fundamentally.
4 august, 09:00
I'm in the Eurolines bus Riga-Vilnius, and have wireless internet wireless. I can't imagine how that works, but it works.
I have no idea what to expect in/from Vilnius. I have heart nothing about the town, except for the football team Jalghiris Vilnius, which sounds like something industrial, grey. The Marco Polo guide says it is a beautiful baroque town - i'm curious.
...
On the way from the railway station to the hostel, it looks very familiar, very much like home - like the non-refurbished part of Sibiu. Old small houses, shabby-looking pavement, building site noise, dust.
The hostel, top notch. Very "cool", refurbished, good taste, funny (sample note on the wall: "the receptionist is away for 30 mins, or sleeping. In the latter case, you can try waking her up." Or - "your mother doesnt work here, so be so kind and clean up after yourselves.")
Baltic hostels are the best i've seen on the entire trip. New, clean, sharp, creative, with personality. Impressed.
I ask the non-sleeping receptionist for permission to leave some luggage here till the evening - even though I am cancelling the reservation, since I found an overnight bus to Warszawa. "No problem".
So I gladly leave the big backpack and am on my way to the city - but I turn back, forgot the phone. I check the pocket where I remember putting it this morning - it's not there. Damn. Check again. Nothing. Take out the jeans from the big backpack - nothing. Shit, I must have forgotten it in Riga. Merda. Take out the laptop, open skype to call Riga, computer blocked. Shit. Reboot. Wait. I have only half a day here, and it's fading away before it started. Finally computer works, I call Riga, ask them to look for the phone, will call back. In the meantime I write them an email with the address where to send it if found. Little hope though. I'm thinking - damn, right at the end... but - every achievement needs a sacrifice... for this trip, it seems to have been the phone. so i go on the website to cancel the phone card - then a thought comes - let's call myself, to help those people in Riga find it. I call from skype, and... hear the ringing next to me.
It was in the tiny pocket of the small backpack, the one specially made for mobile phones. It was the only place I hadn't checked.
Releaved, I call those guys in Riga and tell them to not bother, and am finally on my way. 6 hours left in Vilnius.
On the way to the centre, I see an old tall church tower. Nothing on the map about it. The church looks old and unrefurbished,
but otherwise quite impressive.
but - let's have a look inside. And - couldnt help a loud "wow" when entering.
The echo spread in the entire room, which was EMPTY. No single tourist! When I took this picture, you could hear the click like a gun being armed. Awesome.
Ok, now i get the "baroque town" thing. And why they are "European cultural capital of 2009".
This "all saints" church was in no brochure, so I wondered how stuff that IS in the brochure looks like...
Well, let's see.
I get to some sort of square - no name on the map, none on the streets,
but it has an "important street" feel, so I start walking upwards.
Left and right, passages, some monumental,
some discreet.
Through one of them, the Orthodox church, one of the few of its kind in baroque style. Outside, nothing spectacular,
but inside...
You see green.
Moving on to the Dawn Gate, an emblematic praying place, visited by the
Pope too
So i climbed up to see the famous painting
and the spectacular silver hearts, which I don't get the meaning of, but that shd be no big issue.
Nice view from upstairs,
So I get down, first to see the medieval gate from the other side,
and then back
towards the centre, along other majestic buildings, like StKazimir's church.
Somehow, it seems i made it to the town hall square.
I'm not going to depict all churches seen - it seemed to be the main ocupation of medieval Lithuanians, to build majestic baroque churches. What they didn't build is a walking area - only a small part of this street is dedicated exclusively to pedestrians, among which this mother-daughter duo.
Moving on, when taking this picture
I didn't know I was going to come back, but first, along many open-air boutiques
with amber
I ended up at the Cathedral.
at the edge of what seem to be newer districts - but, no time for them today.
Next, back on the narrow street I mentioned earlier, to see this famous church couple, one more Gothic than the other.
Then, with ambition, up to the Gediminas tower,
for the traditional panorama shot, with new
and old Vilnius.
Just that, standing on the very tower, it is missing from the picture. So I climbed the hill of these 3 crosses
through the woods, which was nice, albeit resulting panorama was not much of an improvement. More impressive was this non-refurbished church
which reminded me that many of these buildings had been transformed in deposits during Communism.
For the way back I chose a detour through the Užupis republic, sort of a Copenhagian Christiania, a bunch of hippie artists declaring independence in their neighbahood, they have a parliament, constitution and president. From what I've seen, it looks... picturesque,
overall seemingly slightly in a better shape than Christiania,
and less shady.
The way out is locked. The whole bridge.
Donno why, but it's well locked.
Vilnius used to have a large Jewish population. Around 100000 maybe. After the short nazi occupation, 175 survived. One hundred seventy five.
This is how the former Jewish ghetto looks today.
In this house on the right, an auntie was weaving, with an ooooold, old machine.
Out of the ghetto, about to head back to the centre, but before that I look back, and see - this.
Church number 325 (no idea, but i wdnt be surprised). Let's check it out, looks good from the outside. And, it turns out, from the inside.
Back to the main square, again very similar to Sibiu (the refurbished part, too),
towards the last observation point, an insider tip from the MP guides. On the way there, to a bastion as fat as fat Margaret from Tallinn,
I realized I lost my sunglasses. So, the sacrifice thing happened, after all. I liked those sunglasses, we've been through a lot together. Kept a silent moment in their memory, and moved on.
The MP guidebook was encouraging us to stop and take a peek inside courtyards, to discover hidden treasures of the old town, so I did that
on the way back to the hostel. Where I spent some time loading up pictures, fixing a picasa bug that crashed my computer 2 times, took my time... and almost missed the bus. Had to do a heavy run with my by now heavy backpacks through heavy rain. Caught it, eventually, and have been writing this since. No wireless here though, so since battery's running out, I'll make the first attempt at sleeping in a half-way upright position.
Goodbye, oh, Baltics. I know you 3 don't like to be categorized under this common denominator, but I'm tired now, so don't be offended. Marco Polo was right, you were a hidden treasure.
Aug 5th, 2008
Expectations and "first contact" were pretty grey, but changed radically as soon as I left the hostel. I had no idea where I was, so I went to the right, where the Medias-fan at the hostel told me that i would find tourist info.
And up the street it was - wow.
Large, clean, shiny, old. This is no Warsaw Pact atmosphere. I entered the big church right upfront, refurbished, impressive. Later I found out that I was on one of the most important streets in Warsaw, Krakowska-something,
sort of a "Calea Victoriei" in Bucharest. Sort of.
The guy from tourist information was very friendly, told me how to chirp on polish a few things - it sounds really cool when you're actually saying it
On we go on Krakowska street,
which used to connect 2 palaces in the old times (well, that's how they built the first streets everywhere anyway),
on the way being fascinated, as usual, by the organpipe in catholic churches.
One of the two palaces was the royal palace, the red one on the right
which marks the entrance to the old town.
I had no idea they have something like THIS in Warsaw.
This old square is enchanting, one can not stop taking pictures.
I didnt stay long tho, as I had no money, cash machines didnt want to give me, so I went to find a bank. For to do that I had to ask the following question to the lady at a tourist desk:“Przepraszam, gdzie jest jedena banka?” - and - victory! Although she spoke English, since she was working at a tourism info center, she answered in Polish! Of course I didnt understand a word, but at least it was my first beginning of a conversation in Polish.
Ladies at the bank didn't speak English, and sent me to another bank, towards the "new" city center, where I ultimately managed to talk to someone who could help me. The guy let me call the bank at home and complain, they said - your card must be broken. You have to come home to fix it. Great. I'm in Poland, dude. Tough luck, dude. Take money from your credit card. Right, so you can charge me. Right. Shit. Right.
There's no other option though, so I took 100 zloty off my credit card. Fortunately at least that worked.
Cost me a lot of time, since i chose to walk all the way, to get a feeling of the "non-touristic" side of the city, a quite familiar post-communist sight
with a modern touch.
I happened to pass by another area of interest, the "theatre street", with national theatre, opera, city hall etc. lined up,
followed by New Warsaw
and the inevitable monument you find in nearly every former Communist country.
Then I had to go to the railway station twice. Once to book a seat for the next trip, and the second time because they didnt want to do it without seeing my interrail ticket, which of course I didnt have with me.
The Łazienki Królewskie park was not exactly on the way, but I made a detour to see it, down on Nowy Swiat,
(under some threatening clouds)
till i reached a park very similar to Herastrau,
with Chopin's monument,
then a quick look at the "water castle", sort of a Polish Sans-Souci,
and back. Quickly, to catch the last opening hour in the tower. Windddyyyyy and cooooold upstairs, quickly a few pix
And back down, to old-town,
to the famous and still gorgeous square,
on through the gate
towards the "newer" part of "old town".
I noticed the very high number of monumental churches one next to the other, I wonder if they have full house on Sundays. I ask, and people say they do, it's full, people are waiting outside and listening to the sermon on speakers...
Quick historical note: The old city centre is an UNESCO monument, and has been REBUILT ENTIRELY after WW2. That's because after a riot in Warsaw, nazis decided to destroy the city systematically. They managed to blow 80% of the buildings up.
This street exhibition on Krakowska street shows some interesting beforeandafters.
In the entirely rebuilt old square, the Mermaid is a central figure, one of the symbols of the city,
they say she's the sister of the one in Copenhagen
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It got cold, so I headed home, when I saw the royal palace in a strange light
and realized - it's the sun! It was looking back. I looked back too, to see one of the sunsets with the most spectacular and diverse evolution:
Enchanted, I went back to the main square to see how it looks at night, and it was worth it - it was bathing in a very special light
Unfortunately, this is where battery ran out, completely. Good night.
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In the movie “The Terminal”, Tom Hanks plays a Polish man who gets blocked in an airport terminal because in his country a separatist group declares independence of the “Republic of Krakozhia”, with guns and turbulences. I still don’t get it. Is it a joke on the Polacks? If it is, i think it’s weak. If it’s not a joke, then it’s plain stupid. Especially considering how the city of Krakow (in Latin, Cracovia) looks like in reality.
It’s 8pm, sunny, warm. I just ordered a fruit ice cream cocktail, after I “liquidated” a creme cake – it’s the last night, i’m splurging. 3 hours from now my train is leaving, on the long way home, but before that, there is Krakow and then another story to be told.
…
8:30pm
I ate the ice cream, and took a stroll through the square. Feeling kinda nostalgic.
Now that i’m a few hours from leaving, it’s not that I regret, but i feel nostalgic. In the last 4 weeks, all these strangers i am watching now passing by, taking pictures of themselves with the towers, watching a ukrainian-polish concert, riding in horses carriages, sitting under the statue of their national poet, or simply getting on with their lives – all these people have been, in a way, part of my life in the last month. I will leave them behind in about 2 hours.
...
Hostel Flamingo is not very visibly marked (they’re not allowed to put big signs on historic buildings), but was declared the best on hostelworld.com in 2007. Indeed.
Room’s not ready, so I leave luggage as usual, applying the “no backpack while strolling” scenario, just cameras to my belt, pockets full of maps, hands and back free.
I had reserved a walking tour ticket. Thought it’s a good way to get the pulse, given the short time. Till 2pm when tour was starting i had time on my hands, enough to satisfy the King Kong syndrome in the first tower that I saw. This one.
It offers a good view on the Big Square,
about which I had heard it’s the largest in Medieval Europe. Doesnt seem THAT large, but ok, if they say so. Further back, Wawel castle, a place I need to see.
I go down and start walking around the big building on the right, when I suddenly realize that I had seen only half of the square! There’s another half beyond the big building, which takes the centre! Aha, now you’re talkin!
It’s huge
A few more pix i shoot quickly before tour starts: a pregnant lady photographing,
a thinking statue,
the “small square” (well, a relative term in this case)
and a new breed of horsecarriagedriver…esses.
Then quickly 2 “sarmale” at one of the stands, when I realize there are no better sarmale in the world than those mad by my mama, not in Latvia, not in Poland. Sorry guys.
Tour starts. Highlights:
Jagellonian University,
2nd or 3rd old in the world,
University church, the only one wearing its original baroque,
a photo exhibition on Krakow 20 years ago vs today.
I asked the guide where did they get the money from for these massive restauration works. It’s UNESCO patrimony, then the EU, government, other partners. Still, I’m amazed – the city is huge, not fully refurbished, but still, to a large extent. Must have costed a fortune. We’d need to do that at home too… It probably makes a difference in your daily life mood to live in a city that looks like this.
People from Brasov and Sibiu should know.
From the 41 towers, 3 are left, the rest being demolished in the very pragmatic 19th century (”they stand in our way”). Today you see only where they used to be.
The episcopy building is important since this is where John Paul left from to go to Rome. To become a Pope.
Nowadays there seems to be an entire “cult” around “JP2″, every community wants a statue, big business there for sculptors. He is one of the 2 great personalities of Krakow, the other one being Kopernikus, who studied here 3 years, and, as an anecdote, apparently was not speaking Polish at all. During that time Poland was split between different empires, and in the North where he came from they were speaking German..
Further on down the street…lets,
up to the Wawel castle, with the Royal Cathedral, where all Polish kings were crowned, even after the capital was moved to Warsaw (of course, big rivalry between the two cities, Warsaw is the economic centre, Krakow the cultural/intellectual – i.e., warsawians are the “materialists”, krakowians the “lazy”).
The cathedral is a rare architectonic melting pot,
apparently whoever had enough money could build a chapel here. I find the crazy style mix cool, in its own way. They say long ago a dragon used to live around here. King Krak killed it, by feeding it a sheep filled with sulfur. It got thirsty, went to drink water from the river Wisla, but water with sulfur… it exploded.
What does it have to do with the church? At the entrance there are a few bones which they say are from the dragon (!). Scientists and non-romantics say they tested and they’re from a mammoth and a prehistoric whale, but who believes them anyway. What surprised me was catholic tolerance to pagan legends, putting dragon bones above the church entrance.
Next to the cathedral is the royal palace,
former royal headquarters, until austrian occupiers turned it into a garrison.
That’s where the tour ends. I went alone to Kazimierz, the Jewish neighborhood. Before WW2, 100000 Jews lived here. About 60 were left thereafter. In Poland, from 3.5 Million, around 20000 survived.
The “ghetto” is not as spectacular as the one from Vilnius, a bit more run down,
so i didnt spend much time and returned to the old city centre
and to the main square, only to witness a… bycicle race!
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I didn’t stay till the end, went ahead on Florianski street,
towards the gate with one of the square towers
and on to the barbican (=fortified tower).
Then back,
in the evening light
at this obscure bar
where the guide had told us there are good pancakes. I enter, dzien dobry (hello), they answer kindly, then – i’m stuck. The menu is in polish. The blonde lady, NOT A WORD in english. Not even “yes” or “no”. Not only that she wasn’t speaking, but she noticed I am struggling to figure out the menu – couldn’t care less. I asked her a few things – answered in polish, on a bored tone. Other people at tables didnt care either. She raised her shoulders and went to the back, to her business, leaving me pray to dilemmas. I wanted a salty pancake, for dinner. The first one on the list was with yogurtowy and orzechami. I figured out yogurtowy, but asked what is orzechami. She answered, I quote, ““orzechami”. Empty look, not hostile, not friendly, just sheepish. And then continued to clean the desk.
Annoyed, I decided to take the orzechami thing. It was walnut. And sweet. GRRRR. I ate gruntling, and then moved on to the lactobarul at the corner.
The menu…
Of course the lady spoke no single word in any other language. I can not believe i am the ONLY tourist ever entering those locations. Impossible. Still, I asked her what the first item on the list meant, she raised her shoulders and… retreated frantically!! I couldnt believe it! What is it with former Communist Europe and services?!?
I got mad and asked for ukrainian borsh, that I understood from the menu. In 20 words they explained “we’re out of that”. “Then what do you have?” “Žurek”. Sort of a borsh too, a sour soup not too sour, with… salami. Oh well. It was so-so.
Lots of things happen in the Big Square, many at the same time – there is room. On half of the square there was a polish-ukrainian festival goin on, on a stage where various people performed. At night there was a ukrainian music band, a teacher and a few teenagers, cymbalons, violines – beautiful. Slavic music has a touch of magic. Unfortunately, no more battery for filming, so all i have are pictures.
It was getting dark. One more stroll around the square
to see the fire dancers on the other side.
And with that, go to sleep. As an overall impression, Krakow (also) exceeded expectations. Although not fully refurbished like Prague – you can still find grey houses in the centre,
it has a special charm to it. Mainly driven by the formidable Big Square. As opposed to Warsaw, the city escaped destruction during the war! Maybe because this was the headquarters of the Nazi force in Poland. Apparently they mined the entire town, to tear it down when they were leaving, but the “button has never been pushed”. Still, this didn’t contribute much to saving the reputation of the respective nazi governor, and the next episode will show why.
To end the story on Krakow though, upon return that afternoon from the thing i had to do, i climbed the church tower
to see the trumpet player play. I had heard him yesterday too, at every hour, didnt know what it was about, he is playing an interrupted tune in all 4 directions.
A real trumpet player.
The tune is also the hour signal on Radio Poland. it is interrupted because apparently while the trumpet player was announcing the Tartar invasion in 1241 he was killed in the middle of the tune.
Today there’s a team of trumpet players who play in turn. You can get an autograph from them
The church itself is impressive too.
Sitting there i suddenly wondered: if the project of this church would have been presented to Jesus himself, what would He have said? Would he have approved it?…
In the evening it was only relaxing in the big square, strolling,
watching some polish rap,
sat down,
wrote (a part of this story), ate the ice cream mentioned above, strolled again, then went to the hotel, carefully arranged luggage, and then headed for the railway station, at a relaxed pace.
So relaxed that I missed the train.