Any Cheat sheets available for Exposures?

wildviper · July 24, 2008

I want one not for cheating, but for actually learning. I have figured out that I am getting frustrated when I am out taking pictures and with changing light and situations. I am just not fast enough to capture how I would like it and playing with the settings (aperture/speed/iso/flash/ev compensation) and I miss the shot frequently.

So, I figured, if there as a sheet that outlines what changes one needs to make to certain settings based on what settings I want to keep constant.

For example, a table like this:

Aperture
Speed
1/2 sec f8
1/4 sec f11??

and so on. This may not be the best way to present this, but hopefully gives you an idea.

I work really well with numbers if I can see them and understand them first. After that I can calculate, but I just can't seem to get this.

Thanx for any help

dkoyanagi · July 24, 2008

Hi Viper

I posted this a while back on a different thread. I'll repost it here

What is aperture?

Aperture is the relative size of how wide the lens opens when the shutter is released. It is one of the factors that determines how much light enters the camera. The other factor is shutter speed, which determines how long the shutter stays open.

Here is the f-stop scale

f/1
f/1.4
f/2
f/2.8
f/4
f/5.6
f/8
f/11
f/16
f/22
f/32
f/45
f/64

Each step on the scale lets in half as much light as the previous step. So f/1.4 lets in half as much light as f/1, f/2 lets in half as much light as f/1.4 and so on.

You can remember the f-stop scale by remembering that the first two numbers are 1 and 1.4. All the others are doubling of those two numbers.

How does aperture relate to shutter speed?

Well, suppose you have a correct exposure at f/4 and 1/100 sec. If you decreased your aperture to f/5.6 what shutter speed would you need to get the same exposure? f/5.6 lets in half as much light as f/4. That means you have to leave the shutter open twice as long to get the same exposure. So at f/5.6 you would need to set the shutter speed to 1/50 sec to get the same exposure.

Suppose on the other hand you want to go from f/4, 1/100s to 1/200 sec. What f-stop would you need? 1/200 sec is half the exposure of 1/100 sec. That means you have to let in twice as much light to get the same exposure. So at 1/200sec you have to increase your aperture to f/2.8

Why would you choose one shutter speed over another, or one f/stop over another?

Suppose you're shooting a moving subject. If you want to freeze the action you'd choose a fast shutter speed, but you'd have to open up the aperture to let in more light. However, a wider aperture also leads to a shallower depth of field. You've probably seen sports photos of athletes frozen in mid air with the the background out of focus. Fast shutter speed and wide aperture will do that.

If you want to increase your depth of field you'd choose a smaller aperture and a slower shutter speed.

How do you know when you have the right combination of aperture and shutter speed?

1. You could take a test shot, review and adjust. Look at the histogram:

1.1 if the histogram is too far to the left it means your exposure is too dark. Open up the aperture or use a slower shutter speed.
1.2. if the histogram is too far to the right it means you exposure is too bright. Close down the aperture or use a faster shutter speed.

2. You could use the camera's built-in light meter. Your camera will tell you when it thinks you have the right exposure. See your camera's user manual for instructions on how to use the light meter.

How does ISO relate to all this?

ISO sets your camera's sensitivity to light. ISO 200 is twice as sensitive to light as ISO 100; ISO 400 is twice as sensitive to light as ISO 200 and so on.

Suppose you have a proper exposure at ISO 100, f/4.0 and 1/100sec. If you set the camera to ISO 200 you can set the camera to f/5.6 & 1/100 sec, or f/4.0 and 1/200 sec an get the same exposure.

Why would you change the ISO setting?

Suppose you're in a low light situation. You've got the lens at it's widest setting and the shutter speed as slow as you'd dare take it (any slower and the picture will turn out blury because of movement, etc), but your exposure is still too dark. You can boost the ISO to get a better exposure.

Be warned, higher ISO means lower saturation and more noise.

Hope this helps.

wildviper · July 24, 2008

Hi dkoyanagi,

Thank you for that. I can honestly say that I have finally taken that step to understanding this because of the way you wrote it out. Makes perfect sense.

I have the Understanding Exposure book, but never had time to read it completely. But your consice and clear writing helped a ton.

I am going to go out and test now and see if I can make my brain remember the numbers.

I am gonna see if I can prepare a chart to that effect too, but will see.

pathfinder · July 24, 2008

Wildviper,

I wrote a thread about exposure out of doors without a light meter, that I think may help clarify things for you.

The included table of exposures, shows the various apertures and shutter speeds, that combined, allow the same amount of light to pass to the sensor.

lashmonster · July 24, 2008

Photography Exposure Wheel
This is not in chart format, but I found it very helpful to play with:

Digital Photography Exposure Wheel by the folks at DesignMentor Training.

chuckinsocal · July 25, 2008

Since my sucky little camera apertures run from 2.8 - 8.0 and my shutter speed maxes out at 1/1000, it took all of about 5 minutes to create a chart using the exposure wheel for iso 100.

Now I'll just print in out in a compact format and put it in my camera bag with all the other stuff I never refer to when I'm out shooting. :dgrin

Thanks for the link.

manda · August 2, 2008

Love the exposure wheel, thanks for the link.

I've laminated this card and keep it with me. I don't know how accurate it is, but it gets me in the ball park for choosing the right exposure.

Download the origianl size here

lashmonster · August 2, 2008

Thanks!

manda wrote:

Love the exposure wheel, thanks for the link.

I've laminated this card and keep it with me. I don't know how accurate it is, but it gets me in the ball park for choosing the right exposure.

Download the origianl size here

Thanks for posting that. Just printed it. Very helpful to have with me.

Sweeper · August 2, 2008

This is a great thread. Ok... scenario; Recently I attended a religious event where I was asked to be the "photog" and was also asked to take a "no flash" pic of an event whereby the priest was walking throughout the crowds and constantly moving. Distance to him was about 10 feet. Lighting was about 3 on a 10 scale. He was moving at a good clip as well. Unfortunately, I never spent enough time playing around with ISO settings to get it right.

So, needless to say, I set the dial to "P" and hoped for the best. Unfortunately, all the pics are now useless. What I needed was a camera setting for a dimly lit venue with no flash allowed and had to take in "motion" as well.

I'm running a Canon 20D with a 580EX (which I couldn't use). My lens is a 17-85mm and no frustration filter (grin).

I ask to the long time pros out there... if you were suddenly dropped from a helicopter into this situation, what would have been your best guess settings if using a manual setting on your camera (aperture, speed and ISO) ???

I am now faced with telling the organizers of the event that am too inexperienced in "low light-no flash-with motion" situations to have taken on the task... grrr.

Any help greatly appreciated...

...Steve

ziggy53 · August 2, 2008

Sweeper wrote:

... What I needed was a camera setting for a dimly lit venue with no flash allowed and had to take in "motion" as well.

I'm running a Canon 20D with a 580EX (which I couldn't use). My lens is a 17-85mm and no frustration filter (grin).

I ask to the long time pros out there... if you were suddenly dropped from a helicopter into this situation, what would have been your best guess settings if using a manual setting on your camera (aperture, speed and ISO) ???

...

Unfortunately the Canon EF-S 17-85mm, f/4-5.6 IS USM is not a good first choice for ambient lighting and low-light situations. A prime like the EF 50mm, f1.4, shooting between f1.4 and f2 in Aperture Priority mode and ISO 1600 is probably a good formula for dark churches.

I used that combination to shoot my cousin last year in one of the darkest churches I have ever been in.

wildviper · August 3, 2008

Steve,

I share the same problem and am usually too nervous/stressed and mess up the settings completely.

Once again, thanx to all who has posted and especially the chart and the circular guide. Very cool.

Ziggy, that is a great shot...that is without a flash? Wow, the fast lens really comes into play with the high iso !

ziggy53 · August 3, 2008

wildviper wrote:

...

Ziggy, that is a great shot...that is without a flash? Wow, the fast lens really comes into play with the high iso !

Thanks.

It looks like I was mistaken on the exposure. It looks like it is likely the exposure was 1/125th at f1.4 and ISO 3200. Shot with a Canon 1D MKII, handheld.

(According to my own post closer to the time the shot was taken. I just cannot now find the original RAW files to corroborate, but that should be close to accurate.)

Bill_M · August 7, 2008

Sweeper wrote:

This is a great thread. Ok... scenario; Recently I attended a religious event where I was asked to be the "photog" and was also asked to take a "no flash" pic of an event whereby the priest was walking throughout the crowds and constantly moving. Distance to him was about 10 feet. Lighting was about 3 on a 10 scale. He was moving at a good clip as well. Unfortunately, I never spent enough time playing around with ISO settings to get it right.

So, needless to say, I set the dial to "P" and hoped for the best. Unfortunately, all the pics are now useless. What I needed was a camera setting for a dimly lit venue with no flash allowed and had to take in "motion" as well.

I'm running a Canon 20D with a 580EX (which I couldn't use). My lens is a 17-85mm and no frustration filter (grin).

I ask to the long time pros out there... if you were suddenly dropped from a helicopter into this situation, what would have been your best guess settings if using a manual setting on your camera (aperture, speed and ISO) ???

I am now faced with telling the organizers of the event that am too inexperienced in "low light-no flash-with motion" situations to have taken on the task... grrr.

Any help greatly appreciated...

...Steve

Hi Steve, I think you explain it best when you say "I am now faced with telling the organizers of the event that am too inexperienced in "low light-no flash-with motion" situations to have taken on the task".

What was your plan to capture more light once you knew the flash was not allowed?

The two ways that you can capture more light are with a lower number aperture (you haven't mentioned what your 17-85 is capable of)...you would definitely have needed a 2.8. The other is ISO & you mentioned you didn't adjust your ISO?

Sorry to sound harsh, but what results were you expecting? Setting a camera to full-auto & hoping for good results is a pretty bad way to operate. Now you're left with an embarrassing explanation & the client is left with no usable images. You should have either done research up front or explained that you weren't the man for the job up front.

Sweeper · August 9, 2008

Ziggy... Great shot in low light. Was your subject moving at a fair clip? My subject was moving pretty fast and I was only given a split second to size up the shot. The crowd in attendance was leaving little room for setting up my shot. As with "wildviper", my moment of truth was so limited that the need to get it right came and went in a flash. Originally, I was supposed to be allowed up to 3 flash shots of the priest walking by. I was told at the very last moment that I could not use my flash.

My problem is that I never get a chance to do any shooting in low light with a moving subject and no flash allowed.

Anyway, I came away from the 3 day event with over 700 excellent photos and 23 video clips including some great dignitary interviews. I guess I can't have it all. Besides, this whole thing was a purely voluntary effort on my part as nobody else was willing to dedicate a 3 day weekend for the shoot. There is certainly no coin exchanged over this one.

My disappointment "arrows" are directed at myself, but now I am bound and determined to practice this scenerio until I've got it right, including the best guess ISO setting for any future shoot.

Thanks again...
...Steve

Sweeper · August 9, 2008

Bill_M wrote:

Hi Steve, I think you explain it best when you say "I am now faced with telling the organizers of the event that am too inexperienced in "low light-no flash-with motion" situations to have taken on the task".

What was your plan to capture more light once you knew the flash was not allowed?

The two ways that you can capture more light are with a lower number aperture (you haven't mentioned what your 17-85 is capable of)...you would definitely have needed a 2.8. The other is ISO & you mentioned you didn't adjust your ISO?

Sorry to sound harsh, but what results were you expecting? Setting a camera to full-auto & hoping for good results is a pretty bad way to operate. Now you're left with an embarrassing explanation & the client is left with no usable images. You should have either done research up front or explained that you weren't the man for the job up front.

Hello Bill... Thanks for the feed back. I guess I was not clear on my original post but, the "no flash" aspect came up suddenly by the organizers. It was the only time that flash was prohibited and this was not part of the original plan. All other photos were either day time or night with flash allowed. As in my other reply, my main issue was with myself, in that I could not calmly decide, with a moments notice, that I had to do a maneuver that I was not comfortable with simply because of a lack of practice. It was a learner for sure to say the very least !!

Tks...
...Steve

Any Cheat sheets available for Exposures?

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