TIFF vs. JPEG in the real world
The other day I decided to print a selection of my favorite images. In the process I thought I'd do a bit of a comparison and convert each of them to TIFF as well as JPEG and print both using a professional printing service.
I used the Canon image browser to convert the raw images to TIFF and then used Photoshop Elements to convert to superfine JPEG. Then I printed them in a mix of 5x7 and 8x10.
There were striking differences.
First, all of the JPEGs were adjusted in processing for both light and color. Nothing terrible, but very noticable comparing with the TIFF or the monitor. This might be avoidable if you're using Print Image Management, which I guess controls color locking, but by default the print services seem to be keen on trying to correct your images. This was more noticable on flash-lit images than naturally lit.
But most striking was the loss in clarity. Even at only 5x7 the clarity loss was easily noticable. 100% of the time I could pick out the difference and easily identify which image was which.
It's not that the JPEG images were bad, they made fine 8x10s, but the TIFF images were definitely superior in detail.
One of these days I'll scan in the prints and put 'em up so people can see but I thought the topic might be of interest to some people here.
I used the Canon image browser to convert the raw images to TIFF and then used Photoshop Elements to convert to superfine JPEG. Then I printed them in a mix of 5x7 and 8x10.
There were striking differences.
First, all of the JPEGs were adjusted in processing for both light and color. Nothing terrible, but very noticable comparing with the TIFF or the monitor. This might be avoidable if you're using Print Image Management, which I guess controls color locking, but by default the print services seem to be keen on trying to correct your images. This was more noticable on flash-lit images than naturally lit.
But most striking was the loss in clarity. Even at only 5x7 the clarity loss was easily noticable. 100% of the time I could pick out the difference and easily identify which image was which.
It's not that the JPEG images were bad, they made fine 8x10s, but the TIFF images were definitely superior in detail.
One of these days I'll scan in the prints and put 'em up so people can see but I thought the topic might be of interest to some people here.
jim frost
jimf@frostbytes.com
jimf@frostbytes.com
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When I first decided to experiment with RAW, I bought the PS plugin for PS-7 which also included support for jpeg-2000. This wasn't very well integrated into PS and it was slow. But jpeg-2000 has a lossless mode that makes files about 1/4 the size of tiff files. This seems like a pretty big win. Somehow jpeg 2000 support seems to have been lost with PS-CS. I wonder why?
I switched to RAW for everything because I have had nothing but bad results from Canon's in-camera white balancing, most especially under flash (this with the 300D, but I understand the 10D is basically the same). I'd rather it just leave it alone and I'll post-correct if I want, it's easy enough to do during conversion. Interestingly the Canon PC software does a fine job of white balancing.
Other than that I didn't have any real preference with RAW versus JPEG and would have preferred JPEG both for ease of workflow and for shot capacity. In fact, if I could turn off white balancing I'd use JPEG most of the time despite the clarity difference I've seen. Then again by using RAW all the time I've had some shots which came out better or could be pulled out of mistakes that would have been difficult to manage otherwise.
Regarding lossless JPEG, I've taken to saving in TIFF LZW format. It's substantially smaller than standard TIFF with no loss in quality. I kind of wish I could make Photoshop use LZW by default.
jimf@frostbytes.com
Working this way allows for a completely automated workflow from shooting to posting of unretouched shots, which I consider to be essentially proofsheets. Then I correct the ones that matter.
I've never even tried to correct using curves. How does one go about doing that? To date I've just used the color temperature adjustments in the Canon tool but I am looking to move to using Photoshop for everything (it's so much faster than Canon's thing, and easy to automate).
jimf@frostbytes.com
A few chapters of the book are online at Dan's site.
Have you set your 300D up with the light color balance set to Electronic flash as opposed to AWB? Might make a real difference in the color balance of your images? One of the suggestions made in the Epson Print Academy was to try the other light balance settings - cloudy, overcast, electronic flsh, tungsten in addition to AWB - It was my experience last winter that cloudy gave a much better color endition of snow than AWB especially early in the morning which rendered way too blue. As you say, in RAW, there is no need since yiou can adjust the color balance to suit after the fact.
I tend to agree with you that jpgs look very good, until you compare them side by side with prints from psds or tiffs. Pictures that I hold as my very best work I save as psd and jpg both. The prints from the psd's seem sharper to me - they should be as they are saved as 16bit.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
I agree that the workflow is PS 7 lacked a lot - particularly 16bit support for images - But PS CS allows most of your work to be done in the 16 bit file imported from the RAW converter - For me the only real downside to RAW files is that they take more room to store and that there is no easy simple RAW viewer in Windows yet.
I wish VuePrint would display RAW files - I use it a LOT when just looking at images stored on cdr's. VuePrint is FAST and available at www.hamrick.com. I have used it as my primary file viewer for more than 5 years. I may suggest that they add RAW image viewing to VuePrint - not that they would listen to me. But they also make VueScan which uses RAW files from film and flatbed scanners so it should not be that hard for them.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
"The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over."-Hunter S.Thompson
But I'd like to be clear about exactly what I think works or not: