What is your favorite flash diffuser?
jcdill
Registered Users Posts: 225 Major grins
I need a flash diffuser for my Speedlite 550 for flash fill (portraits, weddings, etc.). I would love to hear from photographers who have used more than 1 diffuser - of the ones you have used which one do you prefer and WHY? How easy is it to attach, remove, adjust? What about portability and storage? If you have only used one flash diffuser how did you decide on that one (over the competition)? Price? Features? Size? Convenience (e.g. retail purchase, no time to order)?
JC Dill - Equine Photographer, San Francisco & San Jose http://portfolio.jcdill.com
"Chance favors the prepared mind." ~ Ansel Adams
"Light thinks it travels faster than anything but it is wrong. No matter how fast light travels, it finds the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it." ~ Terry Pratchett
"Chance favors the prepared mind." ~ Ansel Adams
"Light thinks it travels faster than anything but it is wrong. No matter how fast light travels, it finds the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it." ~ Terry Pratchett
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Comments
I have 2 commercial and I guess 1 diy....
Let's start with DIY.....I always keep Kleenex with me....and only the white ones....easy to make a diffuser quikly and cheaply and I also keep a few rubber bands in camera bag......and actually they work great but have short half life.......
The 2 commercial units:
I have a Lambency ( Just Like a Gary fong) mine is clear and I use it with the white diffuser......very small learning curve as I meter 99.99999% of my flash shots with a handheld meter......works great cost ~$26 incl s/h in US....there are cheaper units shipping from Hong Kong but I did not want to wait the much longer time..........
My fav is the Lumiquest large softbox...again I meter all flash shots so I do not worry about compensation too much.....what I really lke about the Lumiquest is that it fits all of my flash units (my sunpak 622's and my KM 5600HS).............
If the room isn't to crazy huge, I would say that the Gary Fong works best. But it does kind of chew through batteries since it is trying to light the whole room. And it is kind of heavy. If the room is super huge with really tall ceilings, you are kind of wasting a lot of light since it is omnidirectional.
Number two on my list would be the Better Bounce Card. You can make one yourself for about $5. I use a couple of black ponytail holders from my wife to keep it on the flash. It works quite nicely. (Just do a search on google and you will find the how-to.)
The Stofen and the Lumiquest don't see a lot of action, to be honest. Slapping the Omnibounce on with the head angled at about 45 degrees works pretty well, but if there is a decent ceiling to bounce off of, I prefer the better bounce card.
I am not really a pro or a wedding photographer or a portrait photographer, so I don't know that I am the best judge.
--Aaron
http://mrbook2.smugmug.com
Nikon D200, usually with 18-200VR or 50mm f/1.8D
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Demb Flip-it: This is a very small, lightweight and versatile adaptation of the bounce card. It is often misunderstood and therefore dismissed, but with a very little bit of practice and experience it is very useful.
http://www.dembflashproducts.com/flipit/
Better Bounce Card: Terribly simple , lightweight and cheap to construct, this little device is gaining in support, and for good reason, "it works".
http://abetterbouncecard.com/
Scoop reflector: I love this device everytime I use it. Works especially well with high ceilings or dark ceilings and walls. I made a prototype and then 3 that I take and each cost less than 2 dollars.
Based upon the following link (but modified by me):
http://www.fototime.com/inv/908195739C4C0D3
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Omnibounce is OK, if you know what you're doing.
LS is a pure racket.
when I have more storage room in my bag I use a Lightsphere
type of Diffusor. The Later allows bouncing off walls as well.
― Edward Weston
If I need portability, my favorite, by far, is the Better Bouce Card (BBC). It's been used by photographers for what, 30, 40 years. It's simple. It's cheap to make and easily replaced. Made from appropriate materials, it's nearly indestructible. And, most importantly, it works as designed when used in appropriate settings.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
That is not feasible at a wedding. I assisted at a wedding yesterday. We went from shooting in full sun, to dappled light (under trees) to shade, to backlit, in the tent, in the tent backlit, partial sun and partial tented shade, etc. all afternoon. I didn't have time to sit down, to have a bite to eat, to do anything other than shoot, shoot, change lens, change battery, change card, shoot, move gear, help pose people, move cruft in background, shoot, etc. for 7 hours.
I tried the Better Bounce Card solution (using "foam" paper and a rubber band) yesterday. I found that it doesn't work well outdoors when you have a breeze.
"Chance favors the prepared mind." ~ Ansel Adams
"Light thinks it travels faster than anything but it is wrong. No matter how fast light travels, it finds the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it." ~ Terry Pratchett
As for the BBC outdoors - not going to work so well as long as you don't have a ceiling/wall to bounce off of. It's pretty much an indoor tool.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
"Bounce" devices require a ceiling or wall to act as a primary reflector. The "card" in that combination recycles some of the spill light that would normally go backward and uses it for fill lighting.
A "scoop" is still fairly efficient outdoors because it works almost the opposite to the bounce card. A scoop catches about half of the light from the flash, effectively lifts the light high off of the flash, and redirects the light forward over a larger surface. I have no problems using a scoop in direct shade for a one or two shot, but with a group I would use direct flash but only as fill. A scoop is not effective in high wind, but the subjects are going to get blown in a high wind as well, so I try to find another location out of the wind.
P.S. Scott types faster than I do.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
You may not find it feasable but I find it a necessity asI do not bracket much.....I find a couple of seconds for a meter reading hasn't slowed me down at all.....I have always worked alone...no 2nd shooter, no assistants for posing no cruft remover....only me and I rely on my meter so I am not relying on hopefully getting the correct flash compensation for dappled shadows and such.......I do not try to shoot 1k+ at a wedding.....I do my best to hold shots to 150 - 300 at the largest most extrvagant weddings of 4-8 hours in length.....in my part of the world a noprmal wedding is approx 4 -5 hours and actually only 3- 3.5 hrs if properly scheduled.....I start shooting 1.5 hrs before ceremony and run thru the reception......I usually somehow wind up with a sister of the B or G or a Bridesmaid bringing me ice water and a bite on the fly while shooting.......I do not change lenses, I do not change cards ( I have 2 8gb cards, 1 in each camera, back up camera has 2 2gb cards and I am ordering 2 more 8gb cards)........I also carry note cards designating where I am at in the scheme of things (pre ceremony.....ceremony....groups.....intimates....etc etc.....this is done if I get to shoot out of order early before ceremony....that I love.........
check out stofen.com and see.
I would suggest remembering that with a good reflector sheet - Impact folding reflector, white foam board, or a big white sheet, or a California Sunbounce relfector, you can bounce your flash off a surface out of doors for a nice window light source almost anywhere (but in bright direct sunlight). Most modern hot shoe flashes - SB-800 580ex etc - have enough oomph to bounce off a good sliver or white reflector out of doors in the shade as the primary light source. Just a thought.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
I shoot a 5d with a 580exII and typically shoot manual with ettl on the flash. I typically used a bracket that keeps the flash vertically alligned to the subject regardless of vert/horizontal camera position. I don't think this would work well with a bracket that sets the flash horizontal when shooting vertical... I hope that part makes sense!
Is this as cool as it seems? Seems like a real do-it all-kit.
Matt
Bodies: Canon 5d mkII, 5d, 40d
Lenses: 24-70 f2.8L, 70-200 f4.0L, 135 f2L, 85 f1.8, 50 1.8, 100 f2.8 macro, Tamron 28-105 f2.8
Flash: 2x 580 exII, Canon ST-E2, 2x Pocket Wizard flexTT5, and some lower end studio strobes
What I don't like about stofens is they'll drop me from f22 to f11 all settings and distances the same. Eats up a lot of light.
dak.smugmug.com
Also remember the laws of light! Light falls off at the distance squared! I use the stofens all the time and rarely, but ocassionally, will trigger a full power flash. This is really rare for what I normally shoot.
People do all sorts of crazy things with the StoFens. Cutting out the front and putting in gels; lining the perpendicular surfaces with foil...etc.
I'd suggest getting a StoFen for a few bucks and learning what it can do. Then BORROW some other diffusers and try them out and really compare the results.
If you spend +$100 on a diffuser, for a hot shoe mounted flash, you will probably like the additional placebo effect it provides to your pictures.
:-)
Cheers,
David
+1 on all this!
I love the placebo analogy! I have a WA "It's not the size..." which I think every diffuser junky simply must enter... and weep:-)