what have I done wrong (action photo ?s)

dirtbikejunkiedirtbikejunkie Registered Users Posts: 54 Big grins
edited April 25, 2005 in Technique
I am experiencing a few problems shooting action shots and not sure if I need a better camera body or learn better techniques. I am using a DREBEL and canon 70-200 4FL lens. Looking for some advice

1st problem
During a desert race I was at a lot of the photos came out extremely grainy, such that printing 8x10s don't look very good. I was dealing with very crappy lighting (bad overcast), so that doesn't help, but I am thinking that is not the main problem because some shots did come out good.

here is a sample of my first problem (grainy)
19440108-L.jpg

Aperture: f/5.0 ISO: 200
Focal Length: 180mm (guess: 210mm in 35mm)
Exposure Time: 1/1000
WB: AUTO
Mode: shutter priority

Also, note the above image has been sharpened (due to my other problem), so that didn't help matters.


2nd problem
so my 2nd problem is that a lot of the images would have been really good, except, the rider appears to have just moved out of focus as I can see that the ground just behind the rider is more sharp than the ground just below the rider.

I am using single-shot auto-focus, and I simply just follow the rider and fully-press the button when the rider fills the frame to my desire. I am usually at +1000 shutter speed and 4-4.5F. I had assumed that my DREBEL and new lens are fast enough that I would not have to worry about lag, but seems that is not true. I realize I could go up 1 more f stop and bring more area into focus, but I like the effect of the narrow depth of field as it makes the rider really pop-out.

I have done some searching on the subject and some people have suggested pre-focusing on a location you expect the subject to be at, but with desert racing this is difficult because a rider has multiple lines he/she can take.

So are there other techniques I should be using? I have not tried the AI servo mode much, it doesn't seem to always work (that is, as I follow the subject it does not always re-focus like it's suppose to).

Would a faster body, like a 20D, help in this matter?

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Comments

  • trippy64trippy64 Registered Users Posts: 55 Big grins
    edited April 22, 2005
    I am not seeing grainy on the shot, but I have not blown it up either, it looks sharp on the rider to me?
    trippy64.smugmug.com
    A man can do as he wills, but not will as he wills.

    An opinion should be the result of thought,not the replacement of it.:scratch
  • John MuellerJohn Mueller Registered Users Posts: 2,555 Major grins
    edited April 22, 2005
    I would try AI servo again.I dont recall how well it worked on the 300D.
    Or I would try the sports mode.But then you would loose raw if thats what your shooting in.
    I dont see much grain in the image posted.I do see what looks like back focusing. Not much though.
  • dirtbikejunkiedirtbikejunkie Registered Users Posts: 54 Big grins
    edited April 24, 2005
    MHJS wrote:
    I do see what looks like back focusing. Not much though.
    what is "back focusing"?
  • mercphotomercphoto Registered Users Posts: 4,550 Major grins
    edited April 25, 2005
    Well, the Digital Rebel really can't focus fast enough for motorsports, especially at close distances, and it isn't flexible enough to engage AI Servo focusing when in Av mode, which is a stupid design feature by Canon. I stopped using a dRebel for motorsports because of this, and othe problems.

    You can do some things to help.

    Pre-focusing helps. So does not doing the "half-click on the shutter and pausing" thing. Just slam the shutter button. This is because a Rebel is not going to focus-track anyway. All that will happen is the bike will move out of the focus plane on you, which appears to be an issue you were having.

    Pre-focus. Slam the shutter. Try that. Also, slow that shutter down some. I wouldn't shoot faster than 1/640. Get your keepers at 1/640. Move to 1/400 for a bit. Then get some panning profile shots at 1/125.

    Note, I know someone who shoots shifter karts as well as champ cars with a D30 and a 100-400 lens. Not exactly a fast focusing combination. He pre-focuses everything because he has to. And he gets amazing prints.
    Bill Jurasz - Mercury Photography - Cedar Park, TX
    A former sports shooter
    Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
    My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
  • Jekyll & HydeJekyll & Hyde Registered Users Posts: 170 Major grins
    edited April 25, 2005
    J: And I'll try addressing the first issue...

    H: The grain is most likely coming from underexposure. ISO200 should normally be clean enough for good 8x10 prints.

    J: When you mention "very [email="Cr@ppy"]Cr@ppy[/email] lighting," then I'd assume a pretty heavy overcast. Seems like your exposure settings were a little low.

    H: I'm guessing that the shot was about a stop underexposed? Did you also bring the levels up a bit in post? (besides doing the sharpening).

    J: For starters, I'd suggest using some + exposure compensation when the sky is in the frame. You might have to slow your shutter down a bit if you top out your aperture.

    H: About all you can do with the existing photos is run them through Neat Image/Noise Ninja. Don't get too carried away though.

    Good luck. Issue #2 will really be the big challenge though. :heh
    J&H
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