can't decide.....
I have an assignment to take some photos for the restaurant. They want me to take some with the whole dining area and the bar. My question is I am using a canon 40D and I need a wide angle. Should I get the EFS 10-22mm or the 17-40L? I never tried the 10-22 so I don't know how much wider it will get. Suggestions??:dunno
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I would suggest the 10-22 and also it would depend on if I was shooting during the hours they are open to the public or not.
Might also consider shooting vertical as a pano and stitching it together....that would be real cool.
No matter what shoot off a tripod.
10-22mm photo
17-40mm photo
Just shot them a moment ago from the same point using a 30D. I only put in the extra effort because you're from the Central Valley.
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I'm not a canon person but "L" glass is supposedly ..... DA BOMB.....but I have read on here raves of non L being just a good as or superior....
Ziggy???? You around?????
Samples of the 10-22mm
Samples of the 17-40mm
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Welcome. People? Near the center. If they're off to the side, it's pretty ugly. Happy to send you some full sized samples if you want to PM me your email. Good luck with your choice.
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If you can, actually measure the room, scale the dimensions and lay it out on paper, and actually measure the Field-of-View/Angle-of-View (FOV/AOV) required for where you need to shoot. Then you will know for sure what you need. The lens you need depends not only on the room dimensions but also where you need to shoot from.
Shooting a long and narrow room from the short side of the room is completely different that shooting the same room from the middle of a long side.
You can also use stitching techniques to combine multiple shots into one image.
If there is a graphic artist involved in the project try to work with them so you know what final sizes and aspect ratios are required for the project.
You may want to make multiple images if the room is organized into "zones" or "areas". The bar area may get lost in a single image, but if you use a bar "inset" image it may work better. The bar might also look better from a different angle than what works for the rest of the room.
Some careful planning can make a big difference in the tools that you bring and the time that you spend on the shoot itself.
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I have the Sigma 10-22 and really like it for these kind of things.
Z
If you plan to shoot a number of these sort of projects, then I think, maybe, the 10-22 is not the lens for the job. Even at 22mm, this lens is not distortion free (is any lens really distortion free?). There is enough distortion in the image that you will probably run into issues attempting a stitch pano.
You might be better off with either your planned purchase of the 24-105 f/4L. If you shoot at somewhere between 30mm and 50mm, in portrait orientation, you will probably be able to get everthing from floor to ceiling in the shot - depending on the size of the room(s) and you you might be able to create a stitched pano. However, with out proper pano gear, I fear you will have perspecive/paralax issues with objects close to the camera.
Another thought might be to investigate the usability of tilt/shift TS-E 24mm f/3.5L and some real pano gear (do a search looking for comments from Andy on his pano setup). A more expensive acquisition to be sure, but will, I think, produce much better images.
All of that having been said, the 10-22mm is a very fun lens with very good quality optics. If you're interested, there's a "review you can use" here.
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Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
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My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
The short answer is "yes", it is an issue. When you correct for barrel distortion, the sides of the image will tend to warp. Unless you recrop the image after you correct for distortion, and unless you have accounted for the additional crop in terms of overlap, the stitching software will not be able to cope.
If the distortion software does its job correctly and completely and if you "have" allowed for enough overlap, you can wind up with a pretty decent stitch.
Lenses with complicated distortion patterns, and some of the super-wide and super-zooms (typically those with a fairly wide angle as well as telephoto) tend not to be corrected well with any current software.
I am most familiar with the Sigma 10-20mm and the Sigma 18-50mm, f2.8 (non-"Macro") and, of those two, the 18-50mm stitches rather well and looks realistic with the stitching and panoramic software that I have and use.
Here are some early samples:
http://www.clevr.com/user/ziggy53
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
P.S. I don't use the software on that site. I use freeware that I have collected and set up on my machine.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
The 10-22 is a great piece of glass
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