Learning to use Manual Focus for HS Football

Graham CrackerGraham Cracker Registered Users Posts: 242 Major grins
edited September 15, 2008 in Sports
My Apologies to rockycaynonphotos for "highjacking" their thread. I took the advice and tried manual focus for some HS football shots to no avail. I have become fairly adept at using a single focus point and following the action but understand if I can master the manual focus, it would be better. Are there suggestions on how I go about this as far as camera setting and lens setting?
Canon 40D, ISO usually high, Canon 70-200mm f2.8 IS, monopod, AV setting Thanks Patrick
PDG
Canon 1DM3, 20D & 40D, Canon f/2.8 70-200mm IS, Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8

Comments

  • johngjohng Registered Users Posts: 1,658 Major grins
    edited September 15, 2008
    My Apologies to rockycaynonphotos for "highjacking" their thread. I took the advice and tried manual focus for some HS football shots to no avail. I have become fairly adept at using a single focus point and following the action but understand if I can master the manual focus, it would be better. Are there suggestions on how I go about this as far as camera setting and lens setting?
    Canon 40D, ISO usually high, Canon 70-200mm f2.8 IS, monopod, AV setting Thanks Patrick

    Graham,
    I'm not sure where you got the notion manual focus would be better than Auto-focus. For your gear that is certainly NOT the case. You should definitely be using autofocus, AI-Servo and center focus point.
    Now - I will say, there are a couple things to keep in mind that will increase your success:
    1. Acquire and track the subject for at least a second before firing. This is pretty easy for everything BUT a receiver catching a pass. The key in that case is to not follow the ball with the lens - when you know where it's going, acquire and track the RECEIVER and fire when the ball enters.
    2. Make sure your subject is filling 2/3 of the vertical frame (if portrait orientation) or entire vertical frame if landscape (I recommend portrait orientation for short lenses like the 70-200). With a 200mm lens that's about 25 yards from your position to the subject (maybe a little less). So you're not going to get shots from one sideline to the other and still retain quality.
    3. Make sure you're focusing on an area of contrast - trying to focus on all white pants is not good - you want an area of contrast to give the focus point a fighting chance at success.

    Do those things and you'll get MUCH, MUCH better results than trying to manually focus.

    Now, the one thing you SHOULD set tto manual is the EXPOSURE. Typically there are about 3 zones of lighting - goal line area, 10 or 20 to about 35/40 and then 35/40 to 35/40. As you follow the line of scrimmage you will need to adjust your exposure but it's not tough to figure out. You may find though that the endzone is close to 2 stops less than at the 50 yardline.
  • Graham CrackerGraham Cracker Registered Users Posts: 242 Major grins
    edited September 15, 2008
    johng wrote:
    Graham,
    I'm not sure where you got the notion manual focus would be better than Auto-focus. For your gear that is certainly NOT the case. You should definitely be using autofocus, AI-Servo and center focus point.
    Now - I will say, there are a couple things to keep in mind that will increase your success:
    1. Acquire and track the subject for at least a second before firing. This is pretty easy for everything BUT a receiver catching a pass. The key in that case is to not follow the ball with the lens - when you know where it's going, acquire and track the RECEIVER and fire when the ball enters.
    2. Make sure your subject is filling 2/3 of the vertical frame (if portrait orientation) or entire vertical frame if landscape (I recommend portrait orientation for short lenses like the 70-200). With a 200mm lens that's about 25 yards from your position to the subject (maybe a little less). So you're not going to get shots from one sideline to the other and still retain quality.
    3. Make sure you're focusing on an area of contrast - trying to focus on all white pants is not good - you want an area of contrast to give the focus point a fighting chance at success.

    Do those things and you'll get MUCH, MUCH better results than trying to manually focus.

    Now, the one thing you SHOULD set tto manual is the EXPOSURE. Typically there are about 3 zones of lighting - goal line area, 10 or 20 to about 35/40 and then 35/40 to 35/40. As you follow the line of scrimmage you will need to adjust your exposure but it's not tough to figure out. You may find though that the endzone is close to 2 stops less than at the 50 yardline.

    Thanks. Here is a shot that I need to work on lighting.
    PDG
    Canon 1DM3, 20D & 40D, Canon f/2.8 70-200mm IS, Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8
  • Graham CrackerGraham Cracker Registered Users Posts: 242 Major grins
    edited September 15, 2008
    Thanks. Here is a shot that I need to work on lighting.
    The second one I need to continue to work on focus. I do use AL Servo
    PDG
    Canon 1DM3, 20D & 40D, Canon f/2.8 70-200mm IS, Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8
  • SDJamesSDJames Registered Users Posts: 91 Big grins
    edited September 15, 2008
    johng wrote:
    Graham,
    I'm not sure where you got the notion manual focus would be better than Auto-focus.
    ...
    Now, the one thing you SHOULD set tto manual is the EXPOSURE. Typically there are about 3 zones of lighting - goal line area, 10 or 20 to about 35/40 and then 35/40 to 35/40. As you follow the line of scrimmage you will need to adjust your exposure but it's not tough to figure out. You may find though that the endzone is close to 2 stops less than at the 50 yardline.

    Thanks for the confirmation! I've been doing the first part for my son's sports. The second part I usually don't do, but will consider for night games. It seems it would be harder during day games with variable clouds!
    Here's a recent shot...
    372891859_8HVRa-S.jpg
    40D, 400 f5.6L, 70-200 f2.8L, 50 f1.8, Tam 17-50 f2.8
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