HS Football Camera Settings ???

streegshooter

Hello everyone!

Wondering...traditionaly what settings do you all use for a High School Football game. The transition from daylight to under the lights night shots.

Here is a random shot I grabbed for an example, early in the game:


What would you do different. :dunno Honest criticism (sp) is what I want! Thanks :thumb

jjvfx

This is what I shoot. The night games all have pretty decent lighting 1/500 @ 2.8 with ISO either at 1600 or 3200 depending on the field.

Day time games I shoot 1/1000 @ 4.0 with ISO 100-400 depending on the clouds and the day.

johng

First suggestion - looks like you're shooting with a 70-200 2.8 but exif shows a focal length of 235mm. If you're using a 2x TC I wold recommend not to use it - AF performance will really go downhill in low light. If using a 1.4x TC, Shoot at f4 and get higher shutter speeds AND a better blurred background. At distances in football DOF will be plenty deep enough. You really won't be able to shoot at f4 very long - unless you shoot at ISO 6400. So you'll have to ditch the TC fairly early.

Having said all that.

1. Shoot in manual. Shooting in AV or TV allows for the camera's metering to be fooled by the jerseys.
2. Alway expose for faces - NOT uniforms. This is actually tougher during the daylight than when the lights are on as during the evening when the sun is starting to go down, exposing for faces in helmets can change much more based upon your shooting position. Lights are much more consistent (albeit bad) lighting. Pure daytime isn't so bad - it's late afternoon toward dusk. And of course it depends on how the stadium is set up and where the sun is setting. But once the lights DO come on dont be fooled into complacency that your shots are exposed correctly. I always take my meter readings off the players in dark uniforms - it's easier to adjust for faces.
3. You want to stay over 1/500 if you can. As light levels go down, (remember your aperture stays wide open), reduce shutter speed until about 1/640 or so. When you need to go below that then bump up the ISO. The last ISO "jump" I wait until I get down to 1/400.

4. Once under the lights there are typically about 4 ranges on the field with different exposures. around 35 - 35 is one exposure. From 35 into about 20. From 20 to endzone and then in the endzone. Unless you have a GREAT stadium with corner lights in the endzone that back corner is pretty dark. Possibly 2 stops darker than the 50 yardline. So, as you position yourself up and down the sidelines make sure you're adjusting shutter speed and/or ISO to compensate.

5. When in doubt, expose to the right. You may be tempted to expose to the middle to get higher shutter speeds. At higher ISOs you just don't have room to improve underexposed shots. And remember you want FACES exposed not uniforms. So, when in doubt keep your exposure pushed a little to the right. You''ll end up with less noise. And a little motion blur but properly exposed face will look a lot better than underexposed shots and no blur.

6. Keep framing TIGHT. Normally I suggest filling at least 2/3 of the frame when shooting in portrait orientation. At high ISO you want at least 3/4 of the frame. Capture as much detail as possible and give your AF the best chance at success.

7. Frame Portrait for anything but really tight shots. The reality is most of the action is vertical in nature. Take a look at your first posted shot. Do the players at the right and left really add anything? Image that shot framed portrait with the runner and 2 trailing defenders. A much more effective image. This will also allow you to frame TIGHT without risk of cutting off body parts.

8. Be patient. Wait until the action is within range. With a 300mm lens you have about 40 yards of effective coverage. About 25 yards with a 200mm lens. Beyond that you'll have way too much deadspace, your focus will suffer greatly and you won't have detail. I'd even cut that in under the lights - remember 3/4 of the frame. Ignore the temptation to try and shoot every play. You just end up with a lot of poor images. Shoot action within your range. If you're shooting with a 200mm lens and the play goes to the other sideline just watch it - trying to shoot across the width of the field isn't going to yield many keepers.

streegshooter

Good stuff. Thank you very much. Other thoughts welcome.

Also wondering ... how do you power your flash unit? I have a 580EXII. It was suggested to me by a fellow shooter that I use NIMH 2700's. Thoughts?

Thanks again!

jjvfx

johng wrote:

First suggestion - looks like you're shooting with a 70-200 2.8 but exif shows a focal length of 235mm. If you're using a 2x TC I wold recommend not to use it - AF performance will really go downhill in low light. If using a 1.4x TC, Shoot at f4 and get higher shutter speeds AND a better blurred background. At distances in football DOF will be plenty deep enough. You really won't be able to shoot at f4 very long - unless you shoot at ISO 6400. So you'll have to ditch the TC fairly early.

Having said all that.

1. Shoot in manual. Shooting in AV or TV allows for the camera's metering to be fooled by the jerseys.
2. Alway expose for faces - NOT uniforms. This is actually tougher during the daylight than when the lights are on as during the evening when the sun is starting to go down, exposing for faces in helmets can change much more based upon your shooting position. Lights are much more consistent (albeit bad) lighting. Pure daytime isn't so bad - it's late afternoon toward dusk. And of course it depends on how the stadium is set up and where the sun is setting. But once the lights DO come on dont be fooled into complacency that your shots are exposed correctly. I always take my meter readings off the players in dark uniforms - it's easier to adjust for faces.
3. You want to stay over 1/500 if you can. As light levels go down, (remember your aperture stays wide open), reduce shutter speed until about 1/640 or so. When you need to go below that then bump up the ISO. The last ISO "jump" I wait until I get down to 1/400.

4. Once under the lights there are typically about 4 ranges on the field with different exposures. around 35 - 35 is one exposure. From 35 into about 20. From 20 to endzone and then in the endzone. Unless you have a GREAT stadium with corner lights in the endzone that back corner is pretty dark. Possibly 2 stops darker than the 50 yardline. So, as you position yourself up and down the sidelines make sure you're adjusting shutter speed and/or ISO to compensate.

5. When in doubt, expose to the right. You may be tempted to expose to the middle to get higher shutter speeds. At higher ISOs you just don't have room to improve underexposed shots. And remember you want FACES exposed not uniforms. So, when in doubt keep your exposure pushed a little to the right. You''ll end up with less noise. And a little motion blur but properly exposed face will look a lot better than underexposed shots and no blur.

6. Keep framing TIGHT. Normally I suggest filling at least 2/3 of the frame when shooting in portrait orientation. At high ISO you want at least 3/4 of the frame. Capture as much detail as possible and give your AF the best chance at success.

7. Frame Portrait for anything but really tight shots. The reality is most of the action is vertical in nature. Take a look at your first posted shot. Do the players at the right and left really add anything? Image that shot framed portrait with the runner and 2 trailing defenders. A much more effective image. This will also allow you to frame TIGHT without risk of cutting off body parts.

8. Be patient. Wait until the action is within range. With a 300mm lens you have about 40 yards of effective coverage. About 25 yards with a 200mm lens. Beyond that you'll have way too much deadspace, your focus will suffer greatly and you won't have detail. I'd even cut that in under the lights - remember 3/4 of the frame. Ignore the temptation to try and shoot every play. You just end up with a lot of poor images. Shoot action within your range. If you're shooting with a 200mm lens and the play goes to the other sideline just watch it - trying to shoot across the width of the field isn't going to yield many keepers.

Great write up Johng!

du8die

Agreed...


Thanks for the tips johng.

I wonder if there is a need for a sticky thread that gives specific advice for each sport? Maybe?

streegshooter

Yes absolutely great advice and I appreciate it very much! I think tips and tricks wouldnt be a bad thing to have in here for different sports.

David Evertsen

All I can say is wow!!

johng wrote:

First suggestion - looks like you're shooting with a 70-200 2.8 but exif shows a focal length of 235mm. If you're using a 2x TC I wold recommend not to use it - AF performance will really go downhill in low light. If using a 1.4x TC, Shoot at f4 and get higher shutter speeds AND a better blurred background. At distances in football DOF will be plenty deep enough. You really won't be able to shoot at f4 very long - unless you shoot at ISO 6400. So you'll have to ditch the TC fairly early.

Having said all that.

1. Shoot in manual. Shooting in AV or TV allows for the camera's metering to be fooled by the jerseys.
2. Alway expose for faces - NOT uniforms. This is actually tougher during the daylight than when the lights are on as during the evening when the sun is starting to go down, exposing for faces in helmets can change much more based upon your shooting position. Lights are much more consistent (albeit bad) lighting. Pure daytime isn't so bad - it's late afternoon toward dusk. And of course it depends on how the stadium is set up and where the sun is setting. But once the lights DO come on dont be fooled into complacency that your shots are exposed correctly. I always take my meter readings off the players in dark uniforms - it's easier to adjust for faces.
3. You want to stay over 1/500 if you can. As light levels go down, (remember your aperture stays wide open), reduce shutter speed until about 1/640 or so. When you need to go below that then bump up the ISO. The last ISO "jump" I wait until I get down to 1/400.

4. Once under the lights there are typically about 4 ranges on the field with different exposures. around 35 - 35 is one exposure. From 35 into about 20. From 20 to endzone and then in the endzone. Unless you have a GREAT stadium with corner lights in the endzone that back corner is pretty dark. Possibly 2 stops darker than the 50 yardline. So, as you position yourself up and down the sidelines make sure you're adjusting shutter speed and/or ISO to compensate.

5. When in doubt, expose to the right. You may be tempted to expose to the middle to get higher shutter speeds. At higher ISOs you just don't have room to improve underexposed shots. And remember you want FACES exposed not uniforms. So, when in doubt keep your exposure pushed a little to the right. You''ll end up with less noise. And a little motion blur but properly exposed face will look a lot better than underexposed shots and no blur.

6. Keep framing TIGHT. Normally I suggest filling at least 2/3 of the frame when shooting in portrait orientation. At high ISO you want at least 3/4 of the frame. Capture as much detail as possible and give your AF the best chance at success.

7. Frame Portrait for anything but really tight shots. The reality is most of the action is vertical in nature. Take a look at your first posted shot. Do the players at the right and left really add anything? Image that shot framed portrait with the runner and 2 trailing defenders. A much more effective image. This will also allow you to frame TIGHT without risk of cutting off body parts.

8. Be patient. Wait until the action is within range. With a 300mm lens you have about 40 yards of effective coverage. About 25 yards with a 200mm lens. Beyond that you'll have way too much deadspace, your focus will suffer greatly and you won't have detail. I'd even cut that in under the lights - remember 3/4 of the frame. Ignore the temptation to try and shoot every play. You just end up with a lot of poor images. Shoot action within your range. If you're shooting with a 200mm lens and the play goes to the other sideline just watch it - trying to shoot across the width of the field isn't going to yield many keepers.

I have absolutely learned more from just your posts about football in the past few weeks than I have in the past few years fumbling around. They are so specific it makes such a huge difference. I am really good at my daughters Dance competions but I am taking football to help me with Low Light Action. Incredible especially the distance with Lenses with my 70-200. Wow... I will pose 1 question to you I have not seen an answer too. Does the lense hood help?? I use it but I cannot really tell if it makes a difference on the lense. Should I worry about it???

Thanks very much again...

David Evertsen
www.phabulousphotos.com

jjvfx

When on a football field the hood will help block lens flairs and should be used.