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How do I get rid of these power lines?

Bayer-Z28Bayer-Z28 Registered Users Posts: 392 Major grins
edited September 22, 2008 in Finishing School
It should be an easy job, but the methods I'm using aren't turning out right.

Tried painting over them, but it's not an exact match.. Something maybe that will work to get rid of that metal drain spout too?

Pic isn't showing up for me..
http://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0052gr1.jpg



my.php?image=dsc0052gr1.jpg
Auto enthusiast. I drive a 2000 Camaro Z28. LOADED w/ mods.

Camera: Nikon D80, 18-55 f3.5 stocker & 18-200 Nikon VR.... with a small collection of filters..


My Smugmug.. STILL Under construction.
http://bayer-Z28.smugmug.com

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    digismiledigismile Registered Users Posts: 955 Major grins
    edited September 21, 2008
    Yes, the power lines should be easy to get rid of. In the current version of photoshop, I would suggest the healing brush. It will take care of any graduation in the sky. This tool will make very short order of the lines.

    If you don't have the current version of photoshop (or use another program), you can use the clone tool for this. Zoom in so that you can use a very small brush (just wider than the line). You should use a hard brush, and drop down the opacity and flow. Since the lines are fairly straight, you should be able to click at one end and then shift click at the other end to clone the entire length. If you don't like what you see, just hit undo and try again with altered settings.

    Either of the pipes would be much harder. You have the repeating pattern of the brick that needs to be continued. I don't remember if it was CS2 or CS3, but a tool called vanishing point was added to address this exact problem. Otherwise, without this tool, you would need to copy a section of wall and manually adjust it's size and perspective. Can certainly be done, but this is not something that you would get perfect on first try ...
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    Bayer-Z28Bayer-Z28 Registered Users Posts: 392 Major grins
    edited September 21, 2008
    I've got CS3.. I've had it for over a year, so I'm pretty familiar w/ the functions, just unsure how to get the results I want.

    I'll try the healing brush.

    EDIT: HOLY **i* THAT WORKS WONDERS!!! bowdown.gif I used the clone stamp... I THOUGHT I was using the other one.. Guess not.. Laughing.gif AWESOME! AWESOME!!
    Auto enthusiast. I drive a 2000 Camaro Z28. LOADED w/ mods.

    Camera: Nikon D80, 18-55 f3.5 stocker & 18-200 Nikon VR.... with a small collection of filters..


    My Smugmug.. STILL Under construction.
    http://bayer-Z28.smugmug.com
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    Bayer-Z28Bayer-Z28 Registered Users Posts: 392 Major grins
    edited September 21, 2008
    Getting rid of those pipes was a lot easier than I thought it would be..

    AhhhHA!!! :Dmwink.gif :ivar

    http://img249.imageshack.us/my.php?image=brickcopypf8.jpg

    my.php?image=brickcopypf8.jpg
    Auto enthusiast. I drive a 2000 Camaro Z28. LOADED w/ mods.

    Camera: Nikon D80, 18-55 f3.5 stocker & 18-200 Nikon VR.... with a small collection of filters..


    My Smugmug.. STILL Under construction.
    http://bayer-Z28.smugmug.com
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    digismiledigismile Registered Users Posts: 955 Major grins
    edited September 22, 2008
    Good job. You will find the the healing brush and spot healing brush will do the job most of the time. But the clone stamp tool still has its place.

    Where the healing brush usually fails is at a transition/edge to another color. You end up with color bleeding. This can be avoided in a number of ways, by using the clone stamp tool and/or selecting the area to be modified. By using a selection, you can limit any tool you use to just the area of the selection. The healing brush for example, will now do a better job at the edges.

    So did you use vanishing point on the wall. Cool, eh?!:D I remember doing a major restoration with a photo containing a shingled roof without the vanishing point tool and it took me many hours. I then tried the same job a few years later and I did the same job (and probably better), in minutes.

    When using the clone stamp tool, just keep your edits/brush size small, the brush (usually) hard, and the opacity and flow decreased. I also do these edits on a blank layer above the original (turn on sample all layers). You can then click in small areas, building up the adjustment with mulitple clicks. You can undo anything you don't like. When you're satisfied with the results, you can flatten the layer to the layer below.

    I have many times used both tools (clone stamp first, then healing brush) to edit a photo. You will find instances where just one doesn't work as well ...
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    Bayer-Z28Bayer-Z28 Registered Users Posts: 392 Major grins
    edited September 22, 2008
    I watched a VP walk thru a while ago, but it seems to complicated to use..

    I use the clone stamp on almost everything in that pic. I'm more than pleased w/ the results! :D The wall had such a random pattern to it, it was easy to fudge it.. I managed to duplicate the pattern of the bricks very easily.. Just select a certain area and clone that.
    Auto enthusiast. I drive a 2000 Camaro Z28. LOADED w/ mods.

    Camera: Nikon D80, 18-55 f3.5 stocker & 18-200 Nikon VR.... with a small collection of filters..


    My Smugmug.. STILL Under construction.
    http://bayer-Z28.smugmug.com
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