Falling in love with the music, a city and the River of Mud
New Orleans. Nawlins. The Big Easy. A place I haven't visited in almost a decade, and visited at the wrong time of my life. This repeat visit was, as we tell everyone, long overdue. My husband was a regular here in his more formidable days before we met, but of course neither of us have been there since the city was damaged and rebuilt and we have certainly never been here together.
I'm not sure what took so long. We packed our things, sent the dog to the slammer and even at the last minute extended our vacation from a weekend to five days. Hey what's the point of working from home if you never really take advantage of it?
We stayed at a lovely little B&B on Bourbon Street in the Marigny, far enough away from the noise and tourists to have perfect quiet but within walking distance of anything we cared to see. Best of all the proprietors didn't actually live in the house so for the most part we had the entire place to ourselves. Nice.
Trav was awesome and arranged for a package to be waiting for us (me) when we arrived. Two lenses for me (us) to play with! That coupled with an IR modded Rebel that a friend loaned to me, there was no way the week could go wrong.
Of course the first night I didn't really care much for photos. It was hot. So hot when we walked off the plane, the humidity hit me in the face like a wet wall. We didn't even make it to the restaurant that we were recommended, and instead ducked into the first place that we found. It was a great gamble, though. Beautiful young arteests inside, spicy Thai food in our bellies and outside the window a chorus of the most jubilant, carefree locals I ain't never seen.
Bare feet, smiles, accordians, skateboards, jump ropes. This is New Orleans on a Friday night, eh?
The next morning was, of course, spent watching tourists and locals over coffee and beignets at the Cafe du Monde. All of my knowledge of New Orleans comes from reading books and they're never wrong. Except for the burning question: How many locals actually eat here?
The servers are busy but tired. Floating in a sea of ever-changing imported requests.
We walked. And walked and walked and shot and walked some more. He showed me where he used to perform on the stones in Jackson Square. Oh how much we change!
We managed to have a bit of sun and sky, too.
Even after night fell, we were out and walking, walking. We had a lovely dinner at Muriel's and the streets take on such a different atmosphere when the sun goes down.
Sunday was my last day of full freedom, so we took advantage of it and the sun. I can never stop looking at the majestic houses, all battered and old but still with the gorgeous colors of the south. Greenery poking from everywhere, such a lovely sight even in the recent ruin of Gustav:
The South passes around hurricanes like a hot potato.
We had only a few minutes in the St. Louis Cathedral because they were about to start Sunday Mass.
... however the streets around Jackson Square are no less boring, to me. Every lamppost and every wall tells a story. To me. Who did they see? What do they do in those corners in the rare moments of quiet?
Sunday as usual in the city:
And other semi-religious experiences:
You cannot be in the French Quarter without stopping in a bar or two. Trav had a special connection with this dive, and its doorman greeted everyone with the appropriate attitude:
Nawlins kitsch, I guess!
There are dogs everywhere. Dogs with the "Whatever" attitude that the people have, as well. There is, of course, absolutely nothing wrong with this. The youngsters have a little bit more zest in them than the jaded elders, though:
I bought a pair of awesome boots off of these punks. They fascinate me, city to city and street to street. They are all the same and yet each very different.
I do not quite know why New Orleans has such beautiful shadows. Even in midday the shadows creep across the walls in a way that reminds me of golden autumn in the northeast:
Of course I had to do at least one tilt-shift pano. The shadow of the savior on the back of the cathedral is captivating, especially as it made me freeze in my tracks when walking down the neon glare of Bourbon St.
And if this post isn't long enough, no visit to New Orleans is complete without a trip to a cemetery. We ended up at the wrong one but we found treasures inside there, regardless. It was quite an adventure, getting there, getting in, getting back.
I'm one lucky girl. What a great city, and what a great way to spend a week. Thanks for being there, NOLA.
I'm not sure what took so long. We packed our things, sent the dog to the slammer and even at the last minute extended our vacation from a weekend to five days. Hey what's the point of working from home if you never really take advantage of it?
We stayed at a lovely little B&B on Bourbon Street in the Marigny, far enough away from the noise and tourists to have perfect quiet but within walking distance of anything we cared to see. Best of all the proprietors didn't actually live in the house so for the most part we had the entire place to ourselves. Nice.
Trav was awesome and arranged for a package to be waiting for us (me) when we arrived. Two lenses for me (us) to play with! That coupled with an IR modded Rebel that a friend loaned to me, there was no way the week could go wrong.
Of course the first night I didn't really care much for photos. It was hot. So hot when we walked off the plane, the humidity hit me in the face like a wet wall. We didn't even make it to the restaurant that we were recommended, and instead ducked into the first place that we found. It was a great gamble, though. Beautiful young arteests inside, spicy Thai food in our bellies and outside the window a chorus of the most jubilant, carefree locals I ain't never seen.
Bare feet, smiles, accordians, skateboards, jump ropes. This is New Orleans on a Friday night, eh?
The next morning was, of course, spent watching tourists and locals over coffee and beignets at the Cafe du Monde. All of my knowledge of New Orleans comes from reading books and they're never wrong. Except for the burning question: How many locals actually eat here?
The servers are busy but tired. Floating in a sea of ever-changing imported requests.
We walked. And walked and walked and shot and walked some more. He showed me where he used to perform on the stones in Jackson Square. Oh how much we change!
We managed to have a bit of sun and sky, too.
Even after night fell, we were out and walking, walking. We had a lovely dinner at Muriel's and the streets take on such a different atmosphere when the sun goes down.
Sunday was my last day of full freedom, so we took advantage of it and the sun. I can never stop looking at the majestic houses, all battered and old but still with the gorgeous colors of the south. Greenery poking from everywhere, such a lovely sight even in the recent ruin of Gustav:
The South passes around hurricanes like a hot potato.
We had only a few minutes in the St. Louis Cathedral because they were about to start Sunday Mass.
... however the streets around Jackson Square are no less boring, to me. Every lamppost and every wall tells a story. To me. Who did they see? What do they do in those corners in the rare moments of quiet?
Sunday as usual in the city:
And other semi-religious experiences:
You cannot be in the French Quarter without stopping in a bar or two. Trav had a special connection with this dive, and its doorman greeted everyone with the appropriate attitude:
Nawlins kitsch, I guess!
There are dogs everywhere. Dogs with the "Whatever" attitude that the people have, as well. There is, of course, absolutely nothing wrong with this. The youngsters have a little bit more zest in them than the jaded elders, though:
I bought a pair of awesome boots off of these punks. They fascinate me, city to city and street to street. They are all the same and yet each very different.
I do not quite know why New Orleans has such beautiful shadows. Even in midday the shadows creep across the walls in a way that reminds me of golden autumn in the northeast:
Of course I had to do at least one tilt-shift pano. The shadow of the savior on the back of the cathedral is captivating, especially as it made me freeze in my tracks when walking down the neon glare of Bourbon St.
And if this post isn't long enough, no visit to New Orleans is complete without a trip to a cemetery. We ended up at the wrong one but we found treasures inside there, regardless. It was quite an adventure, getting there, getting in, getting back.
I'm one lucky girl. What a great city, and what a great way to spend a week. Thanks for being there, NOLA.
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Comments
and as usual great eye !!!
The photographs are exceptional. All of them really...are thoughtful portraits of a city. You captured her well. Hats Off....
..but...
Your storytelling takes it to an entirely different level.
Thank you for sharing these (I checked daily since the du Monde post in "people") they were definately worth the wait. And thank you for being such a compassionate alert soul behind you camera.
Made my day!
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture
Fab photos and words. Fab. U. Lous!
Comments and constructive critique always welcome!
Elaine Heasley Photography
Winston
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Beaut
Thanks everyone, and that means a lot to me, Jeff! From a local as well as a fantastic photographer, it really really does. I'm sorry we weren't able to meet up before we left -- I knew you were somewhere in the general quadrant of the country but I didn't know it was only an hour out of NOLA.
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
Love your style of photos and use of fisheye makes me want to purchase one !
My Gallery
Just for kicks I thought I'd post some of the SmugShots I took that week, too.
Totally cheating on the China Study diet:
Crescent City Brewhouse
Only a sample of our gear:
This is from the restaurant that gave me food poisoning, but these two very old ladies were having such a great time, they just made me smile. I'd love to have friendships that solid and that long-lasting, and I hope to have that many laughs when I am their age:
I still haven't taken the snapshots off my point & shoot!
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
Absolutely...
You might also want to research St. Francisville, LA. It is 45 minutes or so north of Baton Rouge and is a wonderful, quaint, historical town. Some really great archetecture there, and many antebellum plantation homes that offer tours. B & B's abound. Probably the most famous of these is The Myrtles which is alledgedly haunted. Mossy oaks, wrought iron, and greek revival.....what more could a camera want?:D
It is an entirely different atmosphere than New Orleans though.
Edit: to say that I just saw the phone pics. I think it is prohibited by law to diet here anyway!
Jeff
-Need help with Dgrin?; Wedding Photography Resources
-My Website - Blog - Tips for Senior Portraiture
I do imagine that New Orleans is really not a true depiction of the South. For one thing it's so full of tourists. My husband and I never really plan our trips mostly because neither of us have a real interest in doing "tourist" stuff. We kind of just wake up in the morning and whatever happens, happens. So doing things off the beaten path are totally up our alley.
Anyway OT I forgot to mention that I really liked your Photography Corner interview. WTG! I've also been reading up on your Speedlite-on-a-Stick technique since I'm a n00b with shooting events in dark places. (And I just got a 580EX, PWs and an ST-E2.) Great stuff!
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
I really love the fish eye shot of you and Travis!
Thanks. Maybe one day New Orleans will get checked from my bucket list too!
Ann
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I have to say, I've always admired your shooting, writing and the combination of those (and I'm secretly hoping that some of it will rub of on me when we are taking our road-trip
Great shots, as expected and usual. Some extra special ones, to me:
I love it. Period.
This is is awesome. It looks like such a simple 'normal' photo at first, but if you look at it closely, there is so much to see and look at. Great stones on the road, and what could be around the corner is intriguing to me.
I love this, because there seems to be so much character in their faces. There are so many stories that could go with this photo, if you know what I mean.
www.ivarborst.nl & smugmug
Haha! You flatter me. I am very very sure that you'll have more than enough to say by the end of that week. I promise. And if not, well the solution is always one of two things: sushi or Mexican food. :ivar
Photos that don't suck / 365 / Film & Lomography
Wow, nice job.
Dave
Alpha 99 & VG, 900x2 & VG; 50mm1.4, CZ135 1.8; CZ16-35 2.8, CZ24-70 2.8, G70-200 2.8, G70-400, Sony TC 1.4, F20, F58, F60.
in color
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