Looking for Motorsports Advice

JBHotShotsJBHotShots Registered Users Posts: 391 Major grins
edited November 7, 2008 in Sports
This is for the motorsports photogs out there and particularly the local dirt track kind. I am going to a big show, $10,000 to win 3-day, for some modifieds this weekend and am looking for advice on how to shoot during the day. I usually shoot at night and this is definitely a first for me. I will be using an XT with 70-200mm 2.8 with a CP, if I can figure out how to use it, during the early afternoon and evenings. It look like these are going to be some very clear, sunny and cool days.

I'm wondering do the same priciples, wheel blur especially, apply to the day like at night? I used to shoot at this track and am pretty familiar with it, but for the first time I won't be handcuffed by having to use a flash or 85mm 1.8.

Just looking for some suggestions on how to approach this one.
Jamie
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7DII w/Grip, 50D w/Grip, 24-70/2.8L, 70-200/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.8, Rokinon 8mm FE 3.2, 580EXII 430EX

Comments

  • toragstorags Registered Users Posts: 4,615 Major grins
    edited October 29, 2008
    Well you probably got the panning technique down pat. Jack Hawley on the FM board who does real nice motorsports work uses SS 340 most times (if I recall)

    Road Track: If I were you, I would find out where the accidents happen, then place myself there with the sun at my back for the first four-six laps. Crowds encourage carelessness.

    Then I would stay at an S after a decent straightaway to get some passes and pursuit shots (my favorites). But you probably do that already.

    Is it CORR? I love CORR anywhere is a photo op. You can have layers of trucks in the same frame going different directions.

    Oval? Hell after the straight the high/low pass can be exciting.

    Good luck. I love dirt and I'm going to Baja in Nov to satisfy my lust.

    Rags
    Rags
  • JBHotShotsJBHotShots Registered Users Posts: 391 Major grins
    edited October 29, 2008
    torags wrote:
    Well you probably got the panning technique down pat. Jack Hawley on the FM board who does real nice motorsports work uses SS 340 most times (if I recall)

    Road Track: If I were you, I would find out where the accidents happen, then place myself there with the sun at my back for the first four-six laps. Crowds encourage carelessness.

    Then I would stay at an S after a decent straightaway to get some passes and pursuit shots (my favorites). But you probably do that already.

    Is it CORR? I love CORR anywhere is a photo op. You can have layers of trucks in the same frame going different directions.

    Oval? Hell after the straight the high/low pass can be exciting.

    Good luck. I love dirt and I'm going to Baja in Nov to satisfy my lust.

    Rags

    I thank you for your post. I was doing some talking with a buddy of mine and he suggested about the same SS.

    I do have to ask; what is CORR and who is Jack Hawley on the FM Board? I don't mean to sound silly but I have to ask.

    I guess I should have posted a picture of the type of cars and track that I would be shooting, I was just as work when I posted the thread and didn't have access to the pictures.

    382007958_KFhmA-L.jpg

    This is more like what I am talking about. This picture is taken at dusk minutes before sundown so I'll be shooting several hours before this. Just wondering if I will be able to speed up the SS from about 1/100, above picture, to where you suggested and get just about the same effect, wheel blur. With shooting at such a slow SS for nights, there isn't a lot of room for error and I'm hoping to get more "keepers" than I would at night.
    Jamie
    JBHotShots.com
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    7DII w/Grip, 50D w/Grip, 24-70/2.8L, 70-200/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.8, Rokinon 8mm FE 3.2, 580EXII 430EX
  • MikeMcA²MikeMcA² Registered Users Posts: 177 Major grins
    edited October 30, 2008
    It seems you have the technique down, in light you'll just have the luxury of more depth of field (stopped down f-stop) and lower ISO. I think, depending on your distance to the action, that 1/360 to 1/250 will give nice motion blur, and certainly wheel blur. The one thing to consider if it's very bright, is that to get those shutter speeds you might have to stop down more than f/11 or f/16, and that brings some digital issues into play. You might consider a neutral density filter or circular polarizing filter to cut some light, and the CP helps with glare, etc. Also, under the harsh daylight, check your histogram for exposure and set EV as needed. I find in some lighting (like really harsh backlighting) I have to shoot manual.
  • JBHotShotsJBHotShots Registered Users Posts: 391 Major grins
    edited October 30, 2008
    Thanks for the post. I do have a CP and I am hoping that will do the trick. I usually shoot in TV but as you mentioned I am prepared to shoot in M to have more control.

    Speaking of CP's, should I take my UV filter off before using the CP?
    Jamie
    JBHotShots.com
    Facebook
    7DII w/Grip, 50D w/Grip, 24-70/2.8L, 70-200/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.8, Rokinon 8mm FE 3.2, 580EXII 430EX
  • MikeMcA²MikeMcA² Registered Users Posts: 177 Major grins
    edited October 30, 2008

    Speaking of CP's, should I take my UV filter off before using the CP?

    Yes.
  • toragstorags Registered Users Posts: 4,615 Major grins
    edited October 30, 2008
    Ditto on the CP. It also seems to remove glare from color reflections making it appear more saturated.

    CORR (Championship Off Road Racing - google it)

    200068672_Y32RF-M.jpg

    Jack Thawley... http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/699555
    Rags
  • JBHotShotsJBHotShots Registered Users Posts: 391 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2008
    9th Annual Fall Nationals
    I just got done uploading the pictures from my trip. After one night of pictures without the CP a day with the CP, I think I actually fell in love with using it. I really can't choose one or two pictures to post right now, but if you want to take a look and tell me what you think, here is the link.

    Fall Nationals Pictures.

    The first two days were shot with 70-200 2.8L with the night shots using a 430ex. The third day I used a 24-105 4.0L and the night shoots I went to to the previous setup. I used a Hoya CP on all the day shots.
    Jamie
    JBHotShots.com
    Facebook
    7DII w/Grip, 50D w/Grip, 24-70/2.8L, 70-200/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.8, Rokinon 8mm FE 3.2, 580EXII 430EX
  • toragstorags Registered Users Posts: 4,615 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2008
    Nice Lou.

    What surprises me is the nite shots at 1/100 and the wheels weren't blurred ( the images I looked at). You can't get much slower than that. Were they braking where you were shooting?

    Rags
    Rags
  • JBHotShotsJBHotShots Registered Users Posts: 391 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2008
    torags wrote:
    Nice Lou.

    What surprises me is the nite shots at 1/100 and the wheels weren't blurred ( the images I looked at). You can't get much slower than that. Were they braking where you were shooting?

    Rags

    The shots varied in position. Most of them were taken going into turn 3 so there would have been a lot of braking. The reason you probably didn't see any wheel blur was because I used a flash, as much as I hated to. By using the flash, I was able to get a higher "keeper" count. I am going to go through and find a couple of my favs from each night and post for some C/C. Thank you very much for looking and commenting.
    Jamie
    JBHotShots.com
    Facebook
    7DII w/Grip, 50D w/Grip, 24-70/2.8L, 70-200/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.8, Rokinon 8mm FE 3.2, 580EXII 430EX
  • toragstorags Registered Users Posts: 4,615 Major grins
    edited November 7, 2008
    Errr.... Jamie..... Sorry

    Rags
    Rags
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