40D in my hand!

nikgone

Hi guys,

My long awaited 40D+28-135 kit has finally arrived this morning! SOOOOO happy!!!!!!

Currently i only have the 28-135 kit lens and a 50 f/1.8 lens. Are there any tips or tricks for setting up the configuration of 40D?

I really hope to get my skills with my 430EX up because I have no idea how to set it and use it. pix came out with weird and unnatural lighting. Should I not expect close-to-natural lighting coming from an external flash?

toodle

NeilL

Congratulations!

Sounds like the 40D is gonna teach you a few things!

Ask some specific questions and you will get plenty of help here.

But the manual is first, last and everywhere in between. This camera will give you its best when you know the correct strokes.

All us 40D owners, at least, will be very interested to hear your experiences and see your results.

Happy times with it!!

Neil

Robinivich

Congrats!

I'm sure you'll have an awesome time. Setting up a new camera is a pretty personal thing, and it'll do just fine out of the box, but I'll give you a couple of hints at how I'm set up. First of all, any settings on your Xti should translate over just fine, so if you have preferences there, just plug them into the 40d.

I'd go on a little browse of your custom functions and other menu settings. Like setting your preference for AF method. I know of a lot of people who like to shoot with the out-of-the-box settings, where a half press of the trigger starts AF, but I like using the AF-on button exclusively. Other custom functions I basically always have on are high ISO noise reduction, ISO expansion (unlocks iso 3200), 1 stop ISO increments (makes adjusting up and down way faster), and Live view exposure simulation (waaayyy more informative than a the metering indicators). You'll also want to setup Live-view to your preference, I can't remember, but I don't think it's even turned on by default.

After that I'd say load up your "My Menu." I have format CF card, exposure bracketing, camera user settings (to set up the C1, C2, C3 positions), mirror lockup, and noise reduction settings.

As for your flash... I'm just going to give the basics here, since I'm no pro and there's lots to learn, but I find that M mode, a moderate ISO, f/whatever floats your boat, and 1/200s will work fine for snapshots. Leave the flash on E-TTL. For nicer light to camouflage the fact you're using flash, point the flash at a ceiling or other big white object to bounce the light. Consider bumping ISO up a notch so the flash doesn't work as hard, this saves time and batteries, but I wouldn't go above 400 unless you have to. Flash bounced like this, particularly with that 50mm mounted and set to f2.8 should give some nice results!

Oh, almost forgot, after your first few shots, check to make sure your flash is hitting about right, I find things are very consistent, but I sometimes have to adjust the flash exposure compensation, which can be done on the flash, or very easily from the ISO/FEC button on the top right of the camera.

Have fun!

Robin

swintonphoto

Congrats!

jovitta

congrats
I upgraded to a 50D from a 30D and am very happy that I did. also make sure the firmware is updated in your new 40D

Jovitta

nikgone

What is mirror lock-up? I can't understand the concept haha.

Also, I can't really feel the effect of IS on my 28-135 around 1/20

So far my experience hasn't been that great because my composition just absolutely crappy and other problems. I know all the problems are mine hehe.

Thank you

Robinivich

nikgone wrote:

What is mirror lock-up? I can't understand the concept haha.

No worries... Mirror lockup is one of those functions that if you don't yet know what it is, it's probably not worth worrying too much about. In as many words, the mirror that flips up to let you take a picture, can be told to stay up, to avoid causing vibrations that make for soft pictures, it's important with telephoto lenses on tripods, among other things.

As for the IS, at what focal length do you find that 1/20 is getting too soft? Your lens has an early, 2 stop IS system. Normally on the 40d an average person would allow between 1/50s and 1/200s for sharp shots, depending on if the lens were set to 28mm or 135mm. 2 stops of advantage means 1/13s to 1/50s, so finding 1/20s to be the barrier sounds about right, especially a bit zoomed in.

Also remember, IS only works against camera motion, it can't stop people, or the background from moving, etc.

Composition wise, we're all still learning, so don't take it too seriously and have some fun!

dcorrin

my own questions about setting up my new 40d
I too am the happy new owner of a 40D, although with the 17-85 lens.

The two questions I know I'd rather have input first instead of experimentinw with are:

1) Is there any trade off or down side to enabling iso3200? Not downside to using, I realize there will be noise, just any negative changes in functionality otherwise.

2) What about highlight tone priority?

Thanks in advance.

tjstrider

re:
There is no problem with enabling the 3200 ISO assuming you do not use it. When you do it is higher noise than other settings obviously... so no worries.

Highlight Tone Priority, i believe means that the camera will help to produce more details in the highlights. (Picture of trees with bright white sky)
Another thing is for wedding photographer. When enabled there is slightly higher shadow noise...

But for landscape and wedding photographers this is a fair trade it seems.

dcorrin wrote:

I too am the happy new owner of a 40D, although with the 17-85 lens.

The two questions I know I'd rather have input first instead of experimentinw with are:

1) Is there any trade off or down side to enabling iso3200? Not downside to using, I realize there will be noise, just any negative changes in functionality otherwise.

2) What about highlight tone priority?

Thanks in advance.

Robinivich

dcorrin wrote:

1) Is there any trade off or down side to enabling iso3200

Nope! Unless you count one more click of the control dial as annoying.

2) What about highlight tone priority?

Turning this on will disable ISO 100 and ISO 3200 (if it's enabled in the first place), and change the tone curve, making images slightly dimmer/less crisp, but helps avoid blowing highlights. It also seems to affect the buffer a tiny bit, so the number of shots before the camera slows down from 6.5 fps is reduced, (set to jpeg L/Fine, my camera changes from a 75 shot buffer to 74 in the viewfinder )

nikgone

Hi I have a question regarding Auto ISO

I set my ISO on auto and

1. when im taking pictures at a high light place, my ISO is set at 400 instead of 100

2. when im taking pictures at a low light place, my ISO is set at 400 (sometimes 800) and never go beyond that.

Is there anything wrong with my ISO auto config?

thanks

ziggy53

Depending on the camera, this could be normal operation of the "Auto ISO" feature. Most would agree it is not too valuable a mode when you wish either quality or control.

Then again, ISO 400 isn't too bad on most modern dSLRs.

nikgone

well when i have enough light i'd expect to use ISO 100 and when in low light and ISO 800 wouldn't cut it, i would expect it to raise it to ISO 1600. But instead it says auto and it only fluctuates from 400-800. -_-

Also, when i have my 430EX on with my camera, is my setting suppose to change with the attachment of flash?

For example, at a low light situation, without 430EX i get ISO 800 and 1/8 sec at f/1.8. But at the same situation with 430EX on, the setting still appear to be the same. If that truly is the case then how will I know how much benefit of light will I get from my 430EX? I have ETTL on at -2/3 compensation with the H(lightning bolt) sign (iono what that is...)

thank you

ziggy53

In "extremely" bright light I think you will find that the "Auto ISO" mode will shift to ISO 200.

I don't recommend any of the "auto" modes and I don't use them just because of the issues you are having. I do recommend only 3 modes of operation:

Aperture priority mode (Av mode in Canon)
Shutter priority mode (Tv mode)
Manual mode

If you learn how to use those 3 modes, and I only recommend Av and Manual mode for flash use, you will achieve your goal of quality photography.

Pathfinder has some great ideas and links for Canon flash use:

http://dgrin.com/showpost.php?p=629071&postcount=1

nikgone

thank you very much ziggy

darkdragon

nikgone wrote:

Hi I have a question regarding Auto ISO

I set my ISO on auto and

1. when im taking pictures at a high light place, my ISO is set at 400 instead of 100

2. when im taking pictures at a low light place, my ISO is set at 400 (sometimes 800) and never go beyond that.

Is there anything wrong with my ISO auto config?

thanks

I dont recall what page it is, but in the manual it actually lists the "auto ISO" min/max the camera will use depending on what shooting mode you have it set for.

The kit lens you have is not an indoor lens. It needs a lot of light to give you great images, even with the IS. I was very disapointed when I first started using mine, before I understood how everything worked. I have not used the f1.8, but you should get better results indoors with that one - with or without flash. Remember that the camera has to focus and normally only uses light in the room to focus with, not the flash - that is why a small f-number is so useful indoors. the 28-135 just can't focus very well in dim light.

Robinivich

nikgone wrote:

For example, at a low light situation, without 430EX i get ISO 800 and 1/8 sec at f/1.8. But at the same situation with 430EX on, the setting still appear to be the same. If that truly is the case then how will I know how much benefit of light will I get from my 430EX? I have ETTL on at -2/3 compensation with the H(lightning bolt) sign (iono what that is...)

What's happening here is that when your camera is set to Av mode, it will meter for the ambient light, the flash will operate only as fill, to brighten shadows in a person's face, for example, but not to act as the main light for the scene. To do this, set to M mode, and manuallyset the shutter speed to what you want, for example:

Set M mode, f2.8, ISO 400, 1/80s. With the flash turned off, this would be a black frame in the lighting you describe, but it the flash is turned on it will calculate how bright it needs to be to give you a normal exposure, and do it all in a few milliseconds between your pressing the shutter button and the picture being taken.

nikgone

Thank you very much Robin

theres a pull-out plastic thing on the head of the speedlite, does anyone use that? I have no idea what that does.

Also, I have HTR off and ISO expansion on I still dont get 3200 ISO...

Scott_Quier

nikgone wrote:

Thank you very much Robin

theres a pull-out plastic thing on the head of the speedlite, does anyone use that? I have no idea what that does.

Also, I have HTR off and ISO expansion on I still dont get 3200 ISO...

To use this:

• Point the flash upward at a white ceiling
• Pull the white card out

This will cause most of the light to go up and bounce off the white ceiling - the ceiling then is a very large light diffuser - makes for some very nice smooth light. The down side is that you get shadows in the eye sockets.

The white card re-directs some of the light forward toward the faces of your subject(s), filling in those shadows.

That's what it's supposed to do, but is very small and not very effective.

A better alternative is the Better Bounce Card - costs all of about 50 cents (plus gas to go to the store) to make. Oh, I forgot, you also have to get a rubber band. Take a look at the links in Ziggy's post (here) for some links to some further details.

Robinivich

nikgone wrote:

theres a pull-out plastic thing on the head of the speedlite, does anyone use that? I have no idea what that does.

On the 430EX this is the wide-angle diffuser (Scott, don't think the 430 series has bounce cards built in, just a diffuser). For lenses wider than 24mm equivalent, think 15-16mm on the 40D, this panel pulls out and flips down to spread the light so that you don't get dark corners. It works 24mm to 14mm equiv, and I don't even know any normal lenses that go this wide on the 40D. If you were to buy, for example, the 10-22mm Ultra-wide-angle lens, from 16mm down you'd use this panel, because otherwise the flash wouldn't reach the corners of the picture. Since you don't AFAIK have a lens this wide, I wouldn't worry about it.

Occasionally you'll see the zoom setting flashing on the 430EX's screen, this is because the flash wants you to change what the panel's doing, either pull out or put away, usually because you accidentally nudged it out a bit, but sometimes if your lens is set really wide.

Also, I have HTR off and ISO expansion on I still dont get 3200 ISO...

Not sure on this one, remember, it doesn't display as ISO 3200 in the viewfinder or display, but as "Hi." If this doesn't help, have a good look through your custom functions, make sure nothing else is changed from default, I don't know all these settings by heart, so I might be missing something.

Scott_Quier

Robinivich wrote:

On the 430EX this is the wide-angle diffuser (Scott, don't think the 430 series has bounce cards built in, just a diffuser). For lenses wider than 24mm equivalent, think 15-16mm on the 40D, this panel pulls out and flips down to spread the light so that you don't get dark corners. It works 24mm to 14mm equiv, and I don't even know any normal lenses that go this wide on the 40D. If you were to buy, for example, the 10-22mm Ultra-wide-angle lens, from 16mm down you'd use this panel, because otherwise the flash wouldn't reach the corners of the picture. Since you don't AFAIK have a lens this wide, I wouldn't worry about it.

My bad and nice catch on your part. I mis-read the the question and I didn't even think about the 430EX.

Robinivich

Scott_Quier wrote:

My bad and nice catch on your part. I mis-read the the question and I didn't even think about the 430EX.

I thought as much, wish I had a 580EX so I could mix them up...