Technical HELP NEEDED

INTEGRITY

I tend to overwrite a lot... so heads up; I am looking to get flash OFF camera , maybe utilize an old bounce flash I have now, but it wont fire with digital rebel XT. What must I buy?:scratch


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I was wondering if you could please help me with an issue I have been having.

I am in BAD NEED of a camera/accessory UPGRADE...but in the meantime... I use a Canon Digital Rebel XT with only the on-camera flash!!

I have been making-do with this flash and (a little) use of reflectors for outdoor pictures...

I do now have a "studio" space in my home (30ft x 20 ft.) Only natural light is thru a sliding glass door at the far end. ANYWAY......

I am having the worse time trying to use household lamps for added light. I only have a "starter kit" from First Studio (which was a waste of my money, honestly.....) It came with 2 lights, 250 watt with bounce umbrellas........ if I go beyond 2 people in the picture then my light is GONE and I get yucky tones....

I have a VERY NICE set of reflectors (large gold, silver and white) which can also be used as diffusers. I even have half way decent tripods and stands....

What in the world could I use to give me more lighting for a group shot of 6 people??

I thought maybe my answer was to ATLEAST get my flash OFF CAMERA....and use store bought clamp lights (150 watt) for added main light. I dont have the money for a TTL flash and also I think the XT requires some special add-on to use one anyway.(???) I do own a VIVITAR autofocus 730 AFC Flash (for my old 35mm) and even an attachable softbox-type diffuser for it, but it will not fire with my Digital Rebel.

Is there an attchment I can purchase that might get this flash to work so I can move it off camera?? I dont understand the terminology whenever I start looking on my own. .....


I CANNOT get skin tones right with indoor photos!!

I have a few recent photos taken with my motley crue of lights on my website : www.integrityportraits.net they are listed under "HARRIS" folder. (and yeah....you dont have to say it...way way too much PP)

I probably asked for too much info....... but just needed some help or a SHOVE in the right direction!!!

THANK YOU!!! SO MUCH!!!!!

Georgia Anne Hozey

www.integrityportraits.net

SMUG MUG USER

ziggy53

INTEGRITY wrote:

... I do own a VIVITAR autofocus 730 AFC Flash (for my old 35mm) and even an attachable softbox-type diffuser for it, but it will not fire with my Digital Rebel.

Is there an attchment I can purchase that might get this flash to work so I can move it off camera?? I dont understand the terminology whenever I start looking on my own. .....

Georgia,

Please do be careful using older flashes on digital SLR cameras. The old flashes can contain damaging "trigger voltage" levels and can destroy or damage your camera.

Refer to this page for more information:

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

Assuming that the flash is OK with your camera and assuming it has not damaged the camera, it could be a polarity issue.

I strongly suggest purchase of a more compatible flash and I do recommend the Sigma EF-530 DG Super E-TTL as the appropriate model for your camera.

While the build quality is not as good as the Canon 430EX and the user interface takes some getting used to, the Sigma flash has more power, better E-TTL II integration, manual operation (full down to 1/64th power). It can also serve as either master or slave in a wireless configuration (used with a second Sigma). I have 2 of the previous model and I like them a lot.

These were all shot with the Sigma flash:













http://sigma4less.com/sigma-ef-530-dg-super-e-ttl-shoe-mount-flash-for-canon-eos-with-e-ttl-ii-operation.html

Art Scott

I truly think you should spend some time at the strobists and also purchase a book on studio lighting and photography....it would help immensely ..... I suggest books by Peter Gowland....however they are getting very hard to find for under $50....but he normally explains his shots and lighting techniques........I would suggest a Barnes and Noble or Borders, as these 2 I use as my library......speaking of library.......if you ahve a decent library, you may find a gold mine of info there on the subject at hand..........

As Ziggy mentioned older flashes physically attached in any way to your camera can very well ruin it.....but if you are not afraid of shooting in manual mode (the most creative mode there is.....absolute total control) then my work around is to attach an inexpensive radio slave to my flash and the transmitter to my camera....I have just a touch over $100 invested for 3 transmiotters and 5 receivers.......so a reciever attached to each light and a transmitter attached to the camera and you can light with dang near any old style shoe mount or handle mount flash that has been made in the last 75 yrs or so......obe either needs a flash meter or a patient client so you can shoot test shots and make the needed changes..............

Good luck

Scott_Quier

I'm going to second Art's advice that you spend a little (or a lot) of time at The Strobist. Reading/studying his stuff will teach you all the terminology (which is good to know) and, even better, how to use light to achieve your goals. I spent a lot of time there and found it to be very educational. The attached photo (taken just a four days ago) is straight out of the camera - no edits at all (that comes later today, this is not yet ready for delivery to the client).

Here's the thing. I had one unmodified off-camera light (to camera right). I took 2 test shots to dial in the amount of light needed from that strobe - without using a light meter other than what is in my camera.

Technique...

• Shoot manual mode
• Decide what shutter speed/aperture you want.
  • Meter (using the camera meter) the background - the yellow tree behind the subjects
  • Determine desired aperture
  • What does the camera say for the shutter speed. Decrease it by one stop - cause I wanted it a little dark
• Set the strobe for good exposure of the couple - Take a shot, look at the histogram and the LCD for blinkies.
• Adjust the strobe, do it again.
• Take the shot - Done in three - took about a minute to set this shot up.

Could this have been done with an incident meter - sure but this way saved me having to walk around and meter the strobe, etc. I did have to move the strobe once, but since I was using a voice activated, self-propelled, carbon-based light stand (my assistant for the day), that took no effort on my part - just bark the command and she moved for me:D

The only reason I knew how to do this was because I spent a considerable amount of time at the strobist site asking myself, "How did he do that!" Still don't know the answer in most instances, but I'm learning.

BTW - this can easily be done with the equipment you already have, plus the investment in the cheap triggers Art is talking about. It's easy stuff - really.