An HDR Image with Photomatix

canon400d

I have Photomatix on trial and I am not too sure what to do as I have tried image bracketing and although I feel I have followed the correct procedure I have never really been too impressed. However, I did this single raw shot through HDR with 2 shots up and 2 shots down below exposure. I would appreciate your comments to see what you think and I will then make some decision as to whether I will continue with HDR, as I am still learning.
Regards
Bob

Awais Yaqub

I think it is great. Will look even good after PS. I think you should continue doing HDR, beautiful places like this deserves it !

canon400d

Awais Yaqub wrote:

I think it is great. Will look even good after PS. I think you should continue doing HDR, beautiful places like this deserves it !

Thanks Awais for looking and I am sure I will be using it more often once I get in the way of it. I know you have taken some fantastic shots using HDR.
Regards
Bob

jdryan3

canon400d wrote:

I have Photomatix on trial and I am not too sure what to do as I have tried image bracketing and although I feel I have followed the correct procedure I have never really been too impressed. However, I did this single raw shot through HDR with 2 shots up and 2 shots down below exposure. I would appreciate your comments to see what you think and I will then make some decision as to whether I will continue with HDR, as I am still learning.
Regards
Bob

Hopefully kdog and other fans of it will jump in. I also want to get it, especially since there is now a plug-in to link it to LR. But I've been just too busy.

Maybe someone can talk to the supposed difficulties of using the programs Tone Mapping. I heard it can be a beast.

Abiciriderback

One thing you have to watch out for in using Photomatix or any HDR program when you combine shots and if you have trees, plants any of that and any wind motion you are going to get a lot of blur once you process. At least that is my experience over the last few months with Photomatix.

Ray Still

kdog

I think the tone mapping looks pretty well balance here, Bob. I definitely think you're on the right track. I do have a couple of potential nits. Have you done any sharpening on it? My eyes seem to have a tough time focusing on it for some reason, but that might just be me. The sky looks a little strange too. I'm seeing some pink, plus a hard line between the blue sky and the white area across the top. Frankly it looks blown out there. I realize you took 5 total exposures, but what f-stop increment did you use? What I would do is take your darkest RAW image, open it in the raw converter, and see if you get highlight alerts on it. I'm thinking you didn't go far left enough.

Anyway, keep it up! I agree with Awais, you picked a great scene to try this with.

Cheers,
-joel

kdog

jdryan3 wrote:

Maybe someone can talk to the supposed difficulties of using the programs Tone Mapping. I heard it can be a beast.

Just because it has 15 knobs to tweak? :giggle

Yeah, it's definitely got a lot of options. It's like anything else though, you end up getting familiar with and using 10% of the options for 90% of your images. The "default" is actually a good place to start. Some folks have published their favorite settings. JamesL comes to mind. I really like the baseline settings he's published. It's a long road to learn all this stuff and I feel like I've barely scratched the surface. It's great fun though!

Cheers,
-joel

pillman

See this thread and check out link at end, good video help with Photomatix..


http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=111231

canon400d

pillman wrote:

See this thread and check out link at end, good video help with Photomatix..


http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=111231

Hey, This was your link I used to do the tutorial using one Raw image with two stops below and two stops above, using the original image in the centre. I did ok until the end when I went into Windows to find the Action list to finalise with 'Landscape magic resolution' but couldn't find it. My long list started with Jacobs-ladder[1] whatever that all meant. But it certainly was an excellent tutorial.
Regards
Bob

pillman

The action you were trying to find you would have to buy from him. The point of his FREE videos...

CHECK this site out - may clear some things up for you- Good luck


http://handbook.outbackphoto.com/section_hdr_and_tonemapping/index.html

canon400d

kdog wrote:

I think the tone mapping looks pretty well balance here, Bob. I definitely think you're on the right track. I do have a couple of potential nits. Have you done any sharpening on it? My eyes seem to have a tough time focusing on it for some reason, but that might just be me. The sky looks a little strange too. I'm seeing some pink, plus a hard line between the blue sky and the white area across the top. Frankly it looks blown out there. I realize you took 5 total exposures, but what f-stop increment did you use? What I would do is take your darkest RAW image, open it in the raw converter, and see if you get highlight alerts on it. I'm thinking you didn't go far left enough.

Anyway, keep it up! I agree with Awais, you picked a great scene to try this with.

Cheers,
-joel

Hey Joel,
Thanks for looking and your kind help is sure appreciated. I took this Raw shot the other day. I read Pillman's tutorial in the aforementioned post. I used the original image and two stops up and two stops down.
Yes I did sharpen it but only a touch as when I got to the last point in CS3 I went into Windows to find my Action list was different from the one in CS3 in the tutorial. I couldn't find 'Land magic resoloution' and that was the reason I sharpened it. My list started with Jacobs-ladder[1] Whatever that meant. I must say Joel I have had a few more attempts with single Raw landscape shots and I really am impressed. I can't wait to use the three photos using AEB, tripod and cable release.
Regards
Bob

canon400d

pillman wrote:

The action you were trying to find you would have to buy from him. The point of his FREE videos...

CHECK this site out - may clear some things up for you- Good luck


http://handbook.outbackphoto.com/section_hdr_and_tonemapping/index.html

Thanks for you kind help. Are you saying that the list in his Action pallette in CS3 can only be obtained by purchasing it from him. Do you know how much he is charging? I will enjoy reading the details you have sent me in the last link.
Regards
Bob

kdog

canon400d wrote:

Hey Joel,
I took this Raw shot the other day. I read Pillman's tutorial in the aforementioned post. I used the original image and two stops up and two stops down.

Ok, I'm an idiot. You said single-raw, and somehow that went right by me. I'm still wondering if the sky might have had blow-outs in that raw, because that's what it looks like in the final HDR.

Yes I did sharpen it but only a touch as when I got to the last point in CS3 I went into Windows to find my Action list was different from the one in CS3 in the tutorial. I couldn't find 'Land magic resoloution' and that was the reason I sharpened it. My list started with Jacobs-ladder[1] Whatever that meant.

I have no clue what all those actions are, Bob. I haven't looked through Pillman's references yet, but if they're telling you that you need to buy some special actions, then I strongly disagree. They may be nice-to-haves, but you already have the tools you need.

I must say Joel I have had a few more attempts with single Raw landscape shots and I really am impressed. I can't wait to use the three photos using AEB, tripod and cable release.
Regards
Bob

Be sure to try "speed bracketing", if you don't already do so. Simply put the camera in high-speed burst mode (if it isn't there already), turn on AEB and hold the shutter down. Brrrrp! It rapid-fires the three bracketed exposures and then stops. Not sure how fast your camera is, but we get great results taking them hand-held, no tripod or cable release. Of course that's if you have enough light. Nikolai turned me onto to that trick. Otherwise, a tripod is always your best bet. Another thing I discovered is that the self-timer will also shoot all three bracket shots when AEB was turned on. So no worries if you forgot your release. Canon really thought this stuff through.

Cheers,
-joel

canon400d

kdog wrote:

Ok, I'm an idiot. You said single-raw, and somehow that went right by me. I'm still wondering if the sky might have had blow-outs in that raw, because that's what it looks like in the final HDR.
I have no clue what all those actions are, Bob. I haven't looked through Pillman's references yet, but if they're telling you that you need to buy some special actions, then I strongly disagree. They may be nice-to-haves, but you already have the tools you need.
Be sure to try "speed bracketing", if you don't already do so. Simply put the camera in high-speed burst mode (if it isn't there already), turn on AEB and hold the shutter down. Brrrrp! It rapid-fires the three bracketed exposures and then stops. Not sure how fast your camera is, but we get great results taking them hand-held, no tripod or cable release. Of course that's if you have enough light. Nikolai turned me onto to that trick. Otherwise, a tripod is always your best bet. Another thing I discovered is that the self-timer will also shoot all three bracket shots when AEB was turned on. So no worries if you forgot your release. Canon really thought this stuff through.

Cheers,
-joel

Thanks Joel, I agree I wouldn't have thought we would have to buy into CS3. I don't know if you have CS3 but I just cannot understand that Jacobs-ladder[1] stuff. I started a thread in Technique and a post replied asking if I had loaded the Action list. You may have a look.
My 40D has a burst of 6.5 so I will probably get away with the hand held. I will let you know how I get on.
Regards
Bob

pillman

canon400d wrote:

Thanks for you kind help. Are you saying that the list in his Action pallette in CS3 can only be obtained by purchasing it from him. Do you know how much he is charging? I will enjoy reading the details you have sent me in the last link.
Regards
Bob

Yes these are presets he has developed and are for sale. Price, not sure,
you really do not need. If interested you will have to search on his site..
Just wanted you to look at the 2 video on photomatix he had ...

kdog

canon400d wrote:

Thanks Joel, I agree I wouldn't have thought we would have to buy into CS3. I don't know if you have CS3 but I just cannot understand that Jacobs-ladder[1] stuff. I started a thread in Technique and a post replied asking if I had loaded the Action list. You may have a look.
My 40D has a burst of 6.5 so I will probably get away with the hand held. I will let you know how I get on.
Regards
Bob

Yeah, I have CS3. It rocks, and I guess I'll have to upgrade to CS4 at some point. Although, I'm thinking of trying LR2 as well. Not sure which one to try first.

Never heard of Jacobs-ladder. It's not a standard CS3 feature as far as I know.

40D is what I use, and you should get good results hand-held.
Cheers,
-joel

jdryan3

kdog wrote:

Be sure to try "speed bracketing", if you don't already do so. Simply put the camera in high-speed burst mode (if it isn't there already), turn on AEB and hold the shutter down. Brrrrp! It rapid-fires the three bracketed exposures and then stops. -joel

And it does get a little unnerving hearing that all the time (Hello? Nik? Are you out there?).
Actually I thought the guys in my Shootout group were nuts when they talked about this. Because it doesn't work real well with the 5D. More 'click-click-click' than BRRRPPP! And you do have to worry about the slowest shutter speed you are using.

But now that I have the 50D, what a difference! And you don't even have to use high-speed burst. The regular one is fast too. So shoot away:gun2

canon400d

kdog wrote:

Yeah, I have CS3. It rocks, and I guess I'll have to upgrade to CS4 at some point. Although, I'm thinking of trying LR2 as well. Not sure which one to try first.

Never heard of Jacobs-ladder. It's not a standard CS3 feature as far as I know.

40D is what I use, and you should get good results hand-held.
Cheers,
-joel

I was considering CS4 too. I have Lightroom2 but to be honest I never use it as I use CS3 all the time. It took me a long while to get into it and I am still learning as you can see. If you click on Windows in CS3 and then on Actions you will get a long drop down list headed History and Actions. Hit Actions and that is where I found Jacobs-ladder[1] etc etc etc.
I love the 40D after using the 400D.
Regards
Bob

kdog

canon400d wrote:

If you click on Windows in CS3 and then on Actions you will get a long drop down list headed History and Actions. Hit Actions and that is where I found Jacobs-ladder[1] etc etc etc.

I definitely don't have that in the default list of actions. I believe that's the action that was created by the 22 year old prodigy Jacob Russ at Harvard.
http://www.hcs.harvard.edu/~jrus/colortheory/jl.html
Perhaps you downloaded it.

Cheers,
-joel

canon400d

kdog wrote:

I definitely don't have that in the default list of actions. I believe that's the action that was created by the 22 year old prodigy Jacob Russ at Harvard.
http://www.hcs.harvard.edu/~jrus/colortheory/jl.html
Perhaps you downloaded it.

Cheers,
-joel

Thanks Joel for that. Can I ask do you have an Action list in Windows in CS3 and if so what does the list begin with. Thanks to you I am now sending another post.
Regards
Bob

canon400d

canon400d wrote:

Thanks Joel for that. Can I ask do you have an Action list in Windows in CS3 and if so what does the list begin with. Thanks to you I am now sending another post.
Regards
Bob

Well I have decided to go for the Photomatix having listened to what you have all said and looked at Pillmans tutorials, I must say I was very impressed, and the tutor was easy to listen to. I have looked at the CS3 tutorial on HDR and it certainly is a lengthy and laborious task, although it does give a satisfactory result.
I have taken three shots this afternoon with my 40D hand held in AEB continuous. In raw. I am obviously showing the first original and the result from HDR. With no Photoshop process. Please give me further advice as I am so taken up with this HDR.
Regards
Bob
1.

2.HDR

3.

4.HDR

5.

6HDR

pillman

Looking pretty good. You will enjoy the software. Experiment alot. Some
comments. I will assume.

1. All 3 shots were raw and at same WB and aperture.
2. You said hand held. Ok, but tripod, cable, and mu etc preffered.
3. Processed as tiffs in photomatix.
4. You will always need to touch up, sharpen etc in photoshop after
photomatix has finished with your work.

Have fun and good luck.

canon400d

pillman wrote:

Looking pretty good. You will enjoy the software. Experiment alot. Some
comments. I will assume.

1. All 3 shots were raw and at same WB and aperture.
2. You said hand held. Ok, but tripod, cable, and mu etc preffered.
3. Processed as tiffs in photomatix.
4. You will always need to touch up, sharpen etc in photoshop after
photomatix has finished with your work.

Have fun and good luck.

Thanks Pillman for what you have done for me which I truly appreciate. At No. 3 {Processed as tiffs in photomatix}. I have been in the habit of doing Jpegs in CS3 as I could never get the tiffs to work properly to send from CS3 to My Documents. I am a wee bit at a loss here whether I should use Tiff or Jpg.
Cheers Bob

pillman

Photomatix "prefers" tiffs as there is more data for the software to use for
processing. You can even use the original raw data which is a psd file from
Cs3 raw. Therefore, you can just open your bracketed shots directly from
your computer into photomatix in native raw form for canon. Or you can
use the save as feature and choose tiff from long list of choices. Save to
a folder you have created then go to photomatix and browse for that folder, load files and let photomatix do its magic. Yes jpegs are ok, but your
results will be much better with tiffs etc..

Hope this helps and good luck

canon400d

pillman wrote:

Photomatix "prefers" tiffs as there is more data for the software to use for
processing. You can even use the original raw data which is a psd file from
Cs3 raw. Therefore, you can just open your bracketed shots directly from
your computer into photomatix in native raw form for canon. Or you can
use the save as feature and choose tiff from long list of choices. Save to
a folder you have created then go to photomatix and browse for that folder, load files and let photomatix do its magic. Yes jpegs are ok, but your
results will be much better with tiffs etc..

Hope this helps and good luck

Thanks ever so much for that I always shoot Raw and after going through DPP and CS3 I have always used the jpgs to send the images where ever I wanted to send them. I have them directed to 'My Pictures' I was unable to send tiffs to 'My Pictures' for some reason I don't know why. Are Tiffs better than Jpgs?
Thanks again
Bob

canon400d

s

canon400d wrote:

Thanks ever so much for that I always shoot Raw and after going through DPP and CS3 I have always used the jpgs to send the images where ever I wanted to send them. I have them directed to 'My Pictures' I was unable to send tiffs to 'My Pictures' for some reason I don't know why. Are Tiffs better than Jpgs?
Thanks again
Bob

Well I have tried a few hand held shots this afternoon and without boring you with those images. I did find after using AEB and continous firing the third image was somewhat blurd at the end of the process. I feel this is where the tripod and independant shutter release comes in. I must use the tripod and release.
Secondly I find that when processing through Photomatix. Am I right or wrong in saying once you get the settings in Photomatix you stay with those settings. The reason I am saying this is because with different images I always feel I end up with the original settings if you know what I mean. I love Photomatix at the end of the day and I feel this is the way to go in digital. But practice, practice, practice. I am slowly getting there.
Regards
Bob

pillman

NO .
Each image will require special tweaking to what you shot and what you the want the final to look like. I think when you open up Photomatix defaults to
settings you used on last pic. Anyway TWEAK each shot..

canon400d

pillman wrote:

NO .
Each image will require special tweaking to what you shot and what you the want the final to look like. I think when you open up Photomatix defaults to
settings you used on last pic. Anyway TWEAK each shot..

I will have a look at the default settings.
Cheers
Bob