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Does anyone know how to

SamSam Registered Users Posts: 7,419 Major grins
edited November 26, 2008 in Technique
Reduce the noise in this type,(star trail) image?

This is a friends image, and he wants to print it, but doesn't like the noise. I did a test print, and I didn't think the noise was too distracting, but he is particular. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Sam

Edit: OK I just posted this and the noise is ahrd to se in this small image.

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    pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,698 moderator
    edited November 22, 2008
    Sam, I would select the lower quarter tones with Select >Color Range, mask out the bottom of the image outside the sky, and run the selected area through Noiseware or one of the other noise removal programs. The remaining black sky will be as smooth as a baby's bottomthumb.gif
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
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    SamSam Registered Users Posts: 7,419 Major grins
    edited November 22, 2008
    Pathfinder,

    Thanks for your response. I tried to understand your instruction, but I must admit I don't know how to chose the lower quarter tones?

    Also I may have used the incorrect term to describe what the photographer wants to clean up.

    Here is a crop of the sky, which hopefully shows what I am trying describe. Maybe a better term would be hot pixels? The points of light between the star trails.

    Sam
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    pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,698 moderator
    edited November 23, 2008
    To select the points, and not the trails, is more difficult. You may have to clone them out or use the healing brush on them.

    Select > Color Range > Shadow will select the lower quarter tones .
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
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    ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 23,831 moderator
    edited November 23, 2008
    Sam,

    It looks like your friend did not use the long exposure noise reduction.

    They might try to build a "dark frame" exposure, if they remember the original exposure length. They would find conditions similar to those when the original shot was exposed, at least a similar ambient temperature, and expose the camera with a lens capped the same duration as the original image. Then use the "dark frame subtraction" method here:

    http://www.takegreatpictures.com/default.aspx?path=/HOME/Columns/Digital_Photography/Details&params=object/9503/_design_/print

    Normally, you would do this right after the original exposure so this may not remove all of the hot pixels, but it should find the most persistent pixels and help quite a bit.

    Next time, tell them to turn the long exposure noise reduction "on" to produce the best results.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
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    TrulyAlaskanTrulyAlaskan Registered Users Posts: 76 Big grins
    edited November 23, 2008
    ziggy53 wrote:
    Sam,

    It looks like your friend did not use the long exposure noise reduction.

    They might try to build a "dark frame" exposure, if they remember the original exposure length. They would find conditions similar to those when the original shot was exposed, at least a similar ambient temperature, and expose the camera with a lens capped the same duration as the original image. Then use the "dark frame subtraction" method here:

    http://www.takegreatpictures.com/default.aspx?path=/HOME/Columns/Digital_Photography/Details&params=object/9503/_design_/print

    Normally, you would do this right after the original exposure so this may not remove all of the hot pixels, but it should find the most persistent pixels and help quite a bit.

    Next time, tell them to turn the long exposure noise reduction "on" to produce the best results.

    Yeah, turn on the Long Exposure Noise Reduction. I do quite a bit of night photography and there are 4 major tools needed to make the shots look right: Long Exposure Noise Reduction, Neat Image (or noise ninja,) Hot Pixel Eliminator, and Photoshop.
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    SamSam Registered Users Posts: 7,419 Major grins
    edited November 24, 2008
    Thanks everybody! Looks like a little reading in in order,

    Sam
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    NikolaiNikolai Registered Users Posts: 19,035 Major grins
    edited November 25, 2008
    Sam, for the image like this there is a relatively simple approach that would clear most of the image, specifically the most of the sky.
    1. Create a new duplicate layer (Ctrl+J)
    2. Change its blending mode to Darken (or Darker - you can play with either later)
    3. Select the whole layer (Ctrl+A)
    4. Activate free transform tool (Ctrl+T)
    5. Position the middle (pivot) point precisely(!) at the rotation center. It should be a few minutes off Polaris
    6. Rotate the layer just a tad. You will lose the end points of the star trails and most (if not all) of the noise dusticles.
    7. If you mispositioned the pivot point, press ESC to abort the transformation, reposition the pivot point and repeat steps 5-6
    8. Once you satisfied with the results, hit Enter to confirm the transform
    9. Add mask and brush out the landscape part and whatever artifacts you may have gotten alone this way
    10. That's all folks! mwink.gif

    The idea here is that rotation would keep the arcs within themselves, thus leaving them pretty much intact.
    At the same time, the brighter noise particles would be moved against the mostly black sky and the blending mode will kill them immediately.
    "May the f/stop be with you!"
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    TrulyAlaskanTrulyAlaskan Registered Users Posts: 76 Big grins
    edited November 25, 2008
    Nikolai wrote:
    Sam, for the image like this there is a relatively simple approach that would clear msot of the image, specifically the most of the sky.
    1. Create a new dulicate layer (Ctrl+J)
    2. Change its blending mode to Darken (or Darker - you can play with either later)
    3. Select the whole layer (Ctrl+A)
    4. Activate free transform tool (Ctrl+T)
    5. Position the middle (pivot) point precisely(!) at the rotation center. It should be a few minutes off Polaris
    6. Rotate the layer just a tad. You will lose the end points of the star trails and most (if not all) of the noise dusticles.
    7. If you mispositioned the pivot point, press Esc to abort the transformation, reposition the pivot point and repeat steps 5-6
    8. Once you satisfied with the results, hit Enter to confirm the transform
    9. Add mask and brush out the lanscape part and whatever artefacts you may have gotten alone this way
    10. That's all folks! mwink.gif
    The idea here is that rotation would keep the arcs within themselves, thus leaving them pretty much intact.
    At the same time, the brighter noise particles would be moved against the mostly black sky and the blending mode will kill them immediately.

    You sir deserve a beer!! This saved me about 4 hours of work! You are THE MAN!
    beer.gif
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    NikolaiNikolai Registered Users Posts: 19,035 Major grins
    edited November 25, 2008
    You sir deserve a beer!! This saved me about 4 hours of work! You are THE MAN!
    beer.gif

    You're welcome :-) thumb.gif

    Can we see the results? mwink.gif
    "May the f/stop be with you!"
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    TrulyAlaskanTrulyAlaskan Registered Users Posts: 76 Big grins
    edited November 26, 2008
    Sure thing, as soon as I'm done with all of them lol. You just opened my eyes to a new way to edit these!
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    NikolaiNikolai Registered Users Posts: 19,035 Major grins
    edited November 26, 2008
    Sure thing, as soon as I'm done with all of them lol. You just opened my eyes to a new way to edit these!
    Glad to be of help:-) :D
    "May the f/stop be with you!"
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    pyrypyry Registered Users Posts: 1,733 Major grins
    edited November 26, 2008
    Nikolai wrote:
    The idea here is that rotation would keep the arcs within themselves, thus leaving them pretty much intact.
    At the same time, the brighter noise particles would be moved against the mostly black sky and the blending mode will kill them immediately.

    I see that could be used to bridge gaps in the trails if you've shot them as a bunch of shorter exposures.

    Nik, you're a genius!
    Creativity's hard.

    http://pyryekholm.kuvat.fi/
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    NikolaiNikolai Registered Users Posts: 19,035 Major grins
    edited November 26, 2008
    pyry wrote:
    I see that could be used to bridge gaps in the trails if you've shot them as a bunch of shorter exposures.

    Nik, you're a genius!

    That's could be done, too:-) Thanks! thumb.gif
    "May the f/stop be with you!"
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    SamSam Registered Users Posts: 7,419 Major grins
    edited November 26, 2008
    Nikolai,

    Thanks for taking your time to post this!!!!

    Sam
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    NikolaiNikolai Registered Users Posts: 19,035 Major grins
    edited November 26, 2008
    Sam wrote:
    Nikolai,

    Thanks for taking your time to post this!!!!

    Sam
    Sam, you're welcome, I hope you can use this method to clean up that very nice image of yours...thumb.gif
    "May the f/stop be with you!"
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