The 1D MKII and 1D MKIIN are both rated for 200,000 actuations. The seller is in error. I believe the MKIII shutters are 300,000 actuations.
I have no idea whether this would turn out to be a good deal or not. The seller has only had 23 transactions. Even though the feedback is all positive, I don't know what the other feedback pertains to.
Thanks for the concern, but a 1 year warrantee is included with the deal.
are you in the uk?? if so then that deal may be good for you......but I would not purchase from a UK seller anywhere unless I knew them and they had a lot of people to vouch for them on this forum?? Sending anyting in for warranty wok is a pain but doing so to a foreign country is even worse.
if your looking on ebay....look at Cameta Camera....I have purchased several cameras from them and never a prob.
An idea? If this fella allows going to him, looking over the product and then purchasing, assuming you won the bid, then why not do that?
Otherwise you take certain risks with this kind of purchase!
I have bought on eBay and won and I have bought on eBay and
lost (lenses).
On the bad lens deal. When I got the lens and determined it was full of fungi, at that point I didn't trust the seller enough to return it to him with the hopes of seeing my cash again...so I kept it sent it off and had it repaired. Segue forward, now I have a $400 lens that cost $850. The photos look like a darned good lens, and it is, but the Seller lied!
The D300 I bought back in October worked for twenty minutes and then had to be sent back. Fortunately, I purchased new from a Reputable Dealer: J&R; No probs, no hassles. The thing about used, and I like used stuff, is that you never know when it may fail. Could be never, could be three weeks when you're up close to the stage. Which brings up the sidebar of redundancy too. I always seem to have too much "crap" with me, but I bet my opinion in that will change when a failure occurs!
I think everyone loves a great deal. SO good luck figuring it all out!
The 1D MKII and 1D MKIIN are both rated for 200,000 actuations. The seller is in error. I believe the MKIII shutters are 300,000 actuations.
I have no idea whether this would turn out to be a good deal or not. The seller has only had 23 transactions. Even though the feedback is all positive, I don't know what the other feedback pertains to.
are you in the uk?? if so then that deal may be good for you......but I would not purchase from a UK seller anywhere unless I knew them and they had a lot of people to vouch for them on this forum?? Sending anyting in for warranty wok is a pain but doing so to a foreign country is even worse.
if your looking on ebay....look at Cameta Camera....I have purchased several cameras from them and never a prob. <!-- / message -->
And yes I live in the UK, I live about 30 minutes from the seller actually.
I think when it comes down to it, I think I'll probably go for the 50D.
one particular deal I found is very good value for money.
I'm not one who tends to buy second hand items, and getting a brand new D-1 MKII is next to impossible, and not affordable for me either.
I'm no professional, so I don't think it will make a huge impact on my photography whether I buy one or the other.
I appreciate everyone's input.
I don't know the currency conversion factor so I can't comment on price, but a 1D Mark II-N is a sweet camera. And, I tend to fear eBay for big ticket items but that's just me. I bought my 1D Mark II used off Dgrin, so keep an eye out here. Also surf the www.sportsshooter.com classifieds for a used camera.
An idea? If this fella allows going to him, looking over the product and then purchasing, assuming you won the bid, then why not do that?
Otherwise you take certain risks with this kind of purchase!
I have bought on eBay and won and I have bought on eBay and
lost (lenses).
On the bad lens deal. When I got the lens and determined it was full of fungi, at that point I didn't trust the seller enough to return it to him with the hopes of seeing my cash again...so I kept it sent it off and had it repaired. Segue forward, now I have a $400 lens that cost $850. The photos look like a darned good lens, and it is, but the Seller lied!
The D300 I bought back in October worked for twenty minutes and then had to be sent back. Fortunately, I purchased new from a Reputable Dealer: J&R; No probs, no hassles. The thing about used, and I like used stuff, is that you never know when it may fail. Could be never, could be three weeks when you're up close to the stage. Which brings up the sidebar of redundancy too. I always seem to have too much "crap" with me, but I bet my opinion in that will change when a failure occurs!
I think everyone loves a great deal. SO good luck figuring it all out!
cheers, tom
Sorry to hear about your misfortune.
But yes, he allows local collection, and I live 30 minutes away.
But if you read the post I just posted, I'm probably going to go for the 50D deal I found.
Sorry to hear about your misfortune.
But yes, he allows local collection, and I live 30 minutes away.
But if you read the post I just posted, I'm probably going to go for the 50D deal I found.
But if you read the post I just posted, I'm probably going to go for the 50D deal I found.
I hope it's not a stupid idea on my side.
I'm not usre if the deal you are talking about includes one of the kit lenses or is body only, but I don't think you will be satisfied with the 28-135 if that is an option. Go for body only and get fast glass like the 35L, 50 f/1.4 or the 85L (or 85 f/1.8). You will be much much happier.
"Don't ask me what I think of you, I might not give the answer that you want me to. Oh well."
-Fleetwood Mac
I'm not usre if the deal you are talking about includes one of the kit lenses or is body only, but I don't think you will be satisfied with the 28-135 if that is an option. Go for body only and get fast glass like the 35L, 50 f/1.4 or the 85L (or 85 f/1.8). You will be much much happier.
I'm currently bidding on several 1-DMKII, and even the III series, or is that a bad thing?
If I can get one for under £820/$1,235 I'll get it.
Well, that's pretty impossible to get an MKIII for, but worth a try eh?
I understand you're on a budget, but I really do think you'll like the 1-series better. Get a used II or II-N and one good lens. Maybe a good prime lens, to keep costs low at the beginning. As profits roll in get your next lens. Etc.
I understand you're on a budget, but I really do think you'll like the 1-series better. Get a used II or II-N and one good lens. Maybe a good prime lens, to keep costs low at the beginning. As profits roll in get your next lens. Etc.
I think everyone that has any input would recommend the 1series over the 40/50D.
I'm gonna try my best to get hold of one for a good price.
May I just ask what happens after the life expectancy of 200k shutter actuations have been fired?
Because many of the used ones have had at least 10k fired.
I think everyone that has any input would recommend the 1series over the 40/50D.
I'm gonna try my best to get hold of one for a good price.
May I just ask what happens after the life expectancy of 200k shutter actuations have been fired?
Because many of the used ones have had at least 10k fired.
Thanks again.
When the shutter or mirror mechanism fails, and it can fail at any time on any camera, the mechanism can be replaced. The cost will depend on what failed and what needs to be replaced. Costs will be much less than a new camera but are not inconsequential.
10K actuations on a Canon 1D/1Ds camera is very light usage.
May I just ask what happens after the life expectancy of 200k shutter actuations have been fired?
Because many of the used ones have had at least 10k fired.
As Ziggy notes 10k shutter clicks is nearly zero wear on a 1-series. And they can be replaced. One good thing about 1-series is how rugged, how well built they are. Its why photojournalists love the 1-series, they take abuse and last a long time. If it helps ease your fears I bought my 1D Mark II used, and then someone bought it off me. A used 1-series with 20-30k clicks should last longer than a new 40D. If I was still doing low-light fast-action stuff (think night motocross) I would definitely still have that camera.
I'm so sorry to keep this thread going for so long like this, but I highly appreciate the help everyone has given me. I just have a few more questions (:
First off, I take it that the 5D, and even MKII (Even though it's too expensive anyway) are bad choice cameras seeing as they are so very slow for what I need them for?
Secondly, will I really suffer from not having the 1-D MKII over the 50D?
Lastly, is the 50D fast enough to do skateboard photography?, I think I asked this before, but I didn't get an answer.
Again, thanks for putting up with my silly questions and having the time to give input!
I'm so sorry to keep this thread going for so long like this, but I highly appreciate the help everyone has given me. I just have a few more questions (:
First off, I take it that the 5D, and even MKII (Even though it's too expensive anyway) are bad choice cameras seeing as they are so very slow for what I need them for?
Secondly, will I really suffer from not having the 1-D MKII over the 50D?
Lastly, is the 50D fast enough to do skateboard photography?, I think I asked this before, but I didn't get an answer.
Again, thanks for putting up with my silly questions and having the time to give input!
No such thing as silly questions!
Conventional wisdom says that for this kind of photography, the more FPS and the deeper the buffer, the better the camera for action. Also to be considered is low light performance, but none of the cameras mentioned are slouches in this department. Remember, this is just conventional wisdom, I know of at least a few sports guys who have 5d IIs and are loving them.
From fastest to slowest, you have 1dIII, 1dIIn, 1dII, 40D/50D (the specs say it differently, but really these two are the same) 5DII, 5D.
After speed, it's build, and I'll just repeat, the 1d series are bricks, and dependable. All of the cameras mentioned are solid, but the 1d series are the next step up, followed probably by the 5d II. The 50D claims improved sealing over the 40D, but the 40D is not what I'd call weather sealed, so who knows.
For build it'd go 1dIII, 1dIIn, 1dII, 5dII, 50D, 40D, 5D.
Conventional wisdom says that for this kind of photography, the more FPS and the deeper the buffer, the better the camera for action. Also to be considered is low light performance, but none of the cameras mentioned are slouches in this department. Remember, this is just conventional wisdom, I know of at least a few sports guys who have 5d IIs and are loving them.
From fastest to slowest, you have 1dIII, 1dIIn, 1dII, 40D/50D (the specs say it differently, but really these two are the same) 5DII, 5D.
After speed, it's build, and I'll just repeat, the 1d series are bricks, and dependable. All of the cameras mentioned are solid, but the 1d series are the next step up, followed probably by the 5d II. The 50D claims improved sealing over the 40D, but the 40D is not what I'd call weather sealed, so who knows.
For build it'd go 1dIII, 1dIIn, 1dII, 5dII, 50D, 40D, 5D.
Thanks for that (:
If I had the money I know I'd definitely get a 1-D, but being the poor university student I am, I can't afford it!
The 5DMKII is also pushing it a bit, so it looks like my best choice is the 50D.
First off, I take it that the 5D, and even MKII (Even though it's too expensive anyway) are bad choice cameras seeing as they are so very slow for what I need them for?
The auto focus on the 5D series is not geared towards being all that fast, so yes that will be a hinderance.
Lastly, is the 50D fast enough to do skateboard photography?, I think I asked this before, but I didn't get an answer.
Actually I did answer that question for you... I've included my response below. But I do want to clarify what you mean be "fast" in a camera. There are a few ways a camera can be "fast". The one most people talk about is frames-per-second. In my opinion that is often the last thing you need to worry about (and I explain why below). Then there is the speed of the auto-focus mechanism and circuitry, which is very important and seldom talked about, probably because (unlike frames per second) its pretty hard to measure, and thus hard to put on a marketing brochure. For skateboarding you want a camera and a lens that can rapidly and accurately acquire an auto-focus lock, and then reliably track that as the person moves. The last measurement of "fast" on a camera is the shutter lag - how quickly does the camera actually take the photo after you press the shutter button. Point-and-shoot cameras are horrible at this, mid-level dSLR's are pretty good, and 1-series are telepathic.
When it comes to capturing fast action the fps is so over-hyped. If you're trying to capture the "moment" of action by holding down the shutter, rattling off shots like a machine gun, hoping that one of the images is worth keeping, then frankly you don't know what you're doing. What you want is a camera responsive enough to take the shot that YOU see and YOU anticipate. While a 40D or 50D is responsive compared to a point-and-shoot, the 1-series are near telepathic.
The auto focus on the 5D series is not geared towards being all that fast, so yes that will be a hinderance.
Actually I did answer that question for you... I've included my response below. But I do want to clarify what you mean be "fast" in a camera. There are a few ways a camera can be "fast". The one most people talk about is frames-per-second. In my opinion that is often the last thing you need to worry about (and I explain why below). Then there is the speed of the auto-focus mechanism and circuitry, which is very important and seldom talked about, probably because (unlike frames per second) its pretty hard to measure, and thus hard to put on a marketing brochure. For skateboarding you want a camera and a lens that can rapidly and accurately acquire an auto-focus lock, and then reliably track that as the person moves. The last measurement of "fast" on a camera is the shutter lag - how quickly does the camera actually take the photo after you press the shutter button. Point-and-shoot cameras are horrible at this, mid-level dSLR's are pretty good, and 1-series are telepathic.
Sorry, I did read what you wrote, but because it didn't mention skateboarding directly, I forgot about it (:
I've already ordered to 50D, and with the order I'm getting a EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens.
I'm more than sure I'll need to purchase a new lens.
I've already ordered to 50D, and with the order I'm getting a EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens.
I'm more than sure I'll need to purchase a new lens.
Yes, as a 3.5-5.6 lens is too "slow" to be useful for your low-light stuff. A few suggestions, not really know what focal lengths you'll need, so I'll suggest across the board:
1) Canon 24-70/2.8, or the Tamron 28-70/2.8 zooms. Both are excellent. The Tamron is much cheaper, but the Canon is a very fast focusing lens. Using the Canon lens on a 1D Mark II was amazing at night motocross in its ability to focus and lock on moving objects in dim light. Maybe someone can chime in about the focus speed of the Tamron.
2) Canon 70-200/2.8. Superb telephoto zoom. Very versatile.
3) Canon 85/1.8. Cheap, dependable, and very fast at auto-focus. Seems to be a favorite of basketball shooters.
4) There has to be a wide angle prime Canon lens known for fast focusing but I'm hoping someone else will chime in here.
For your uses I do NOT recommend the Canon 50mm lenses (1.4 or 1.8). Great lenses but neither are fast focusers. My 1.4 likes to hunt in dim light too. Not good for your needs.
Consider getting any of these lenses used. And I'd personally stay away from eBay and instead use forums like DGrin, SportsShooter, Fred Miranda, etc.
Comments
The 1D MKII and 1D MKIIN are both rated for 200,000 actuations. The seller is in error. I believe the MKIII shutters are 300,000 actuations.
I have no idea whether this would turn out to be a good deal or not. The seller has only had 23 transactions. Even though the feedback is all positive, I don't know what the other feedback pertains to.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
are you in the uk?? if so then that deal may be good for you......but I would not purchase from a UK seller anywhere unless I knew them and they had a lot of people to vouch for them on this forum?? Sending anyting in for warranty wok is a pain but doing so to a foreign country is even worse.
if your looking on ebay....look at Cameta Camera....I have purchased several cameras from them and never a prob.
Otherwise you take certain risks with this kind of purchase!
I have bought on eBay and won and I have bought on eBay and
lost (lenses).
On the bad lens deal. When I got the lens and determined it was full of fungi, at that point I didn't trust the seller enough to return it to him with the hopes of seeing my cash again...so I kept it sent it off and had it repaired. Segue forward, now I have a $400 lens that cost $850. The photos look like a darned good lens, and it is, but the Seller lied!
The D300 I bought back in October worked for twenty minutes and then had to be sent back. Fortunately, I purchased new from a Reputable Dealer: J&R; No probs, no hassles. The thing about used, and I like used stuff, is that you never know when it may fail. Could be never, could be three weeks when you're up close to the stage. Which brings up the sidebar of redundancy too. I always seem to have too much "crap" with me, but I bet my opinion in that will change when a failure occurs!
I think everyone loves a great deal. SO good luck figuring it all out!
cheers, tom
And yes I live in the UK, I live about 30 minutes from the seller actually.
I think when it comes down to it, I think I'll probably go for the 50D.
one particular deal I found is very good value for money.
I'm not one who tends to buy second hand items, and getting a brand new D-1 MKII is next to impossible, and not affordable for me either.
I'm no professional, so I don't think it will make a huge impact on my photography whether I buy one or the other.
I appreciate everyone's input.
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
But yes, he allows local collection, and I live 30 minutes away.
But if you read the post I just posted, I'm probably going to go for the 50D deal I found.
I hope it's not a stupid idea on my side.
Hey thanks! Cheap lessons for me, I believe!
Hope all goes well for ya~~cheers, tom
-Fleetwood Mac
Well this is the deal.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Canon-50D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Body-3-Lens-Kit-NEW-USA_W0QQitemZ160308122772QQcmdZViewItemQQptZDigital_Cameras?hash=item160308122772&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A3|39%3A1|240%3A1309
Perhaps some of the stuff I might end up not using, but for the price, I think it's a very good deal, considering that's the price I'd pay for body only in stores.
Note that camera is the "USA" version. It may be considered "gray market" in the UK and your warranty may not apply. Check with Canon to be sure.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
If I can get one for under £820/$1,235 I'll get it.
Well, that's pretty impossible to get an MKIII for, but worth a try eh?
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
I think everyone that has any input would recommend the 1series over the 40/50D.
I'm gonna try my best to get hold of one for a good price.
May I just ask what happens after the life expectancy of 200k shutter actuations have been fired?
Because many of the used ones have had at least 10k fired.
Thanks again.
When the shutter or mirror mechanism fails, and it can fail at any time on any camera, the mechanism can be replaced. The cost will depend on what failed and what needs to be replaced. Costs will be much less than a new camera but are not inconsequential.
10K actuations on a Canon 1D/1Ds camera is very light usage.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
First off, I take it that the 5D, and even MKII (Even though it's too expensive anyway) are bad choice cameras seeing as they are so very slow for what I need them for?
Secondly, will I really suffer from not having the 1-D MKII over the 50D?
Lastly, is the 50D fast enough to do skateboard photography?, I think I asked this before, but I didn't get an answer.
Again, thanks for putting up with my silly questions and having the time to give input!
Conventional wisdom says that for this kind of photography, the more FPS and the deeper the buffer, the better the camera for action. Also to be considered is low light performance, but none of the cameras mentioned are slouches in this department. Remember, this is just conventional wisdom, I know of at least a few sports guys who have 5d IIs and are loving them.
From fastest to slowest, you have 1dIII, 1dIIn, 1dII, 40D/50D (the specs say it differently, but really these two are the same) 5DII, 5D.
After speed, it's build, and I'll just repeat, the 1d series are bricks, and dependable. All of the cameras mentioned are solid, but the 1d series are the next step up, followed probably by the 5d II. The 50D claims improved sealing over the 40D, but the 40D is not what I'd call weather sealed, so who knows.
For build it'd go 1dIII, 1dIIn, 1dII, 5dII, 50D, 40D, 5D.
Thanks for that (:
If I had the money I know I'd definitely get a 1-D, but being the poor university student I am, I can't afford it!
The 5DMKII is also pushing it a bit, so it looks like my best choice is the 50D.
Actually I did answer that question for you...
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
Sorry, I did read what you wrote, but because it didn't mention skateboarding directly, I forgot about it (:
I've already ordered to 50D, and with the order I'm getting a EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens.
I'm more than sure I'll need to purchase a new lens.
1) Canon 24-70/2.8, or the Tamron 28-70/2.8 zooms. Both are excellent. The Tamron is much cheaper, but the Canon is a very fast focusing lens. Using the Canon lens on a 1D Mark II was amazing at night motocross in its ability to focus and lock on moving objects in dim light. Maybe someone can chime in about the focus speed of the Tamron.
2) Canon 70-200/2.8. Superb telephoto zoom. Very versatile.
3) Canon 85/1.8. Cheap, dependable, and very fast at auto-focus. Seems to be a favorite of basketball shooters.
4) There has to be a wide angle prime Canon lens known for fast focusing but I'm hoping someone else will chime in here.
For your uses I do NOT recommend the Canon 50mm lenses (1.4 or 1.8). Great lenses but neither are fast focusers. My 1.4 likes to hunt in dim light too. Not good for your needs.
Consider getting any of these lenses used. And I'd personally stay away from eBay and instead use forums like DGrin, SportsShooter, Fred Miranda, etc.
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu