New Zealand's Routeburn Track
NorthernFocus
Registered Users Posts: 1,347 Major grins
My wife and I recently fulfilled a long held ambition by spending 25 days vacationing in New Zealand (subject of another future thread). As a part of the overall trip, we spent three days walking the Routeburn Track, described the the New Zealand Department of Conservation (DOC) as follows:
To address the first problem, we started researching outfitters for availability and cost of renting equipment once we got there. During that exercise, the second problem resolved itself. We found the Ultimate Hikes website and learned about their "guided walks". The Routeburn is one of several trips that they offer. Basically they provide guides who walk with you during the day and do all of the heavy lifting around "camp". Camp happens to be lodges with hot showers each night, hot meals, regular beds to sleep in, and drying rooms for your gear. They also provide rain gear and a day pack for you to carry your clothing and any personal belongings.
Being a life long outdoorsman and still suffering the last lingering stages of that male disease, testosterone poisoning (aka machismo), I was reticent to sign up for such a trip. But after visiting the NZ DOC website and learning that use of tents is not allowed and the only alternative was to book beds in a DOC hut anyway, I "relented". Good decision.
As it turned out, taking this type of trip allowed me to carry my D200, a couple of lenses, and a good tripod. I never would have been able to do this with a full backpack and my knees. Also, with only an average of 10km per day to walk and all of the camp logistics taken care of, there was plenty of time to linger along the trail to enjoy the sites and take photos.
So here's a written description of the trip and some of the images I managed to capture along the way. You can also visit my Routeburn Track Gallery or click on any of the following images for a link to a larger version.
Day 1: Three hour coach ride from Queenstown to beginning of track near Te Anau then 13km walk to Lake Mackenzie Lodge. There is an optional 3km spur track above timberline to a lookout at Key Summit.
The first 40km of the ride is along Lake Wakatipu
Once on the ground the track start uphill pretty quickly. The trail is very well maintained gravel surface (mostly). We had beautiful weather (a little warm for us Alaskans) and before long, views of the Southern Alps began to peek through the trees
It was such a fine day, we stacked our packs at the intersection of the spur and walked on up to Key Summit
The weather held and at the summit the views were breathtaking
We would have loved to stay at the summit till sundown but that was hours away. So we reluctantly headed back down, recovered our packs, and hiked the last mile or so downhill through beech rainforest to Lake Mackenzie Lodge
After dinner I headed back up the trail a ways to photograph some little details in the forest that we had walked by earlier
Day 2: The day's 15km track starts at Lake Mackenzie under ancient moss covered forest, climbs quickly above timberline, traverses Harris Saddle, and ends the day at Routeburn Falls Lodge. From Harris Saddle there is an optional spur which climbs to the top of Conical Hill.
After a full breakfast of porridge, poached eggs, bacon, and plenty of coffee, we started up the trail under overcast and a slight drizzle. The trail started a steep climb almost immediately. This day would be spent mostly above timberline. And the entire day could be summed up with one word... water. Rain, fog, lakes, streams, and waterfalls would be the order of the day. The morning didn't lend itself to photography as we made the traverse through fog and high winds. But after lunch in a shelter on top of the saddle, we started down past Harris Lake from which cascade the headwaters of the Routeburn River:
From there the trail follows the river through the upper Routeburn Valley to falls at the far end:
By afternoon it had started to clear and we were rewarded with a view of the flats in the valley below as we approached the comfort of the lodge:
After a hot shower and another fine meal, I wandered out behind the lodge for some images of the falls:
Day 3: An easy 6km day all downhill then a coach ride to Glenorchy for libations and on to Queenstown.
If the single word for day 2 was water, for the final day it had to be green. The trail starts downhill through rainforest and you immediately find yourself in a damp, moss covered world of soft, filtered green light. I describe it as "visual velvet":
The trail crosses a rocky slip which provides on last view of the valley below:
When the trail reaches the valley floor, it follows the river, crossing several creeks via swing bridges:
The river water is crystal clear with a turquoise hue I've never seen anywhere but over sandy bottoms behind tropical reefs. By the time reached that point of the trail the sun was overhead with harsh, contrasty lighting. I kept waiting for a shady spot to capture the blue river and unbelievably came away without an image at all.
All in all we loved the trip and highly recommend it. Due to the quality of the trail and transit of each section by at least a couple dozen people per day, the guides were not necessary as actual guides for experienced outdoors people like ourselves. But for the information they shared about local history, flora, and fauna, on the spot first aid support if needed, and handling of all the logistics including cooking/cleaning, it was well worth the "price of admission". They never hurried us along when we stopped for photographs, never refused to take our picture for us when asked, and never failed to be the picture of courtesy. When you then consider the constant presence of their unbeatable Kiwi hospitality, we considered them more like hosts or ambassadors for New Zealand.
We knew we wanted to do some hiking/tramping while we were there but had two challenges. One was simply the logistics of planning a trip 8000 miles (13,000km) away. The second was my old, worn out knees which will no longer tolerate carrying a 40lb. pack downhill (uphills are fine).The Routeburn Track traverses 32 kilometres of Mount Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks, part of Te Wāhipounamu – South West New Zealand World Heritage Area and is administered by the Department of Conservation on behalf of the New Zealand public.
Located in the southwest of the South Island the track extends between the head of Lake Wakatipu and S.H. 94, the Te Anau – Milford Road. The nearest townships of Queenstown, Te Anau and Glenorchy have a full range of accommodation. Shops in Queenstown and Te Anau can cater for all your tramping needs, including equipment hire.
To address the first problem, we started researching outfitters for availability and cost of renting equipment once we got there. During that exercise, the second problem resolved itself. We found the Ultimate Hikes website and learned about their "guided walks". The Routeburn is one of several trips that they offer. Basically they provide guides who walk with you during the day and do all of the heavy lifting around "camp". Camp happens to be lodges with hot showers each night, hot meals, regular beds to sleep in, and drying rooms for your gear. They also provide rain gear and a day pack for you to carry your clothing and any personal belongings.
Being a life long outdoorsman and still suffering the last lingering stages of that male disease, testosterone poisoning (aka machismo), I was reticent to sign up for such a trip. But after visiting the NZ DOC website and learning that use of tents is not allowed and the only alternative was to book beds in a DOC hut anyway, I "relented". Good decision.
As it turned out, taking this type of trip allowed me to carry my D200, a couple of lenses, and a good tripod. I never would have been able to do this with a full backpack and my knees. Also, with only an average of 10km per day to walk and all of the camp logistics taken care of, there was plenty of time to linger along the trail to enjoy the sites and take photos.
So here's a written description of the trip and some of the images I managed to capture along the way. You can also visit my Routeburn Track Gallery or click on any of the following images for a link to a larger version.
Day 1: Three hour coach ride from Queenstown to beginning of track near Te Anau then 13km walk to Lake Mackenzie Lodge. There is an optional 3km spur track above timberline to a lookout at Key Summit.
The first 40km of the ride is along Lake Wakatipu
Once on the ground the track start uphill pretty quickly. The trail is very well maintained gravel surface (mostly). We had beautiful weather (a little warm for us Alaskans) and before long, views of the Southern Alps began to peek through the trees
It was such a fine day, we stacked our packs at the intersection of the spur and walked on up to Key Summit
The weather held and at the summit the views were breathtaking
We would have loved to stay at the summit till sundown but that was hours away. So we reluctantly headed back down, recovered our packs, and hiked the last mile or so downhill through beech rainforest to Lake Mackenzie Lodge
After dinner I headed back up the trail a ways to photograph some little details in the forest that we had walked by earlier
Day 2: The day's 15km track starts at Lake Mackenzie under ancient moss covered forest, climbs quickly above timberline, traverses Harris Saddle, and ends the day at Routeburn Falls Lodge. From Harris Saddle there is an optional spur which climbs to the top of Conical Hill.
After a full breakfast of porridge, poached eggs, bacon, and plenty of coffee, we started up the trail under overcast and a slight drizzle. The trail started a steep climb almost immediately. This day would be spent mostly above timberline. And the entire day could be summed up with one word... water. Rain, fog, lakes, streams, and waterfalls would be the order of the day. The morning didn't lend itself to photography as we made the traverse through fog and high winds. But after lunch in a shelter on top of the saddle, we started down past Harris Lake from which cascade the headwaters of the Routeburn River:
From there the trail follows the river through the upper Routeburn Valley to falls at the far end:
By afternoon it had started to clear and we were rewarded with a view of the flats in the valley below as we approached the comfort of the lodge:
After a hot shower and another fine meal, I wandered out behind the lodge for some images of the falls:
Day 3: An easy 6km day all downhill then a coach ride to Glenorchy for libations and on to Queenstown.
If the single word for day 2 was water, for the final day it had to be green. The trail starts downhill through rainforest and you immediately find yourself in a damp, moss covered world of soft, filtered green light. I describe it as "visual velvet":
The trail crosses a rocky slip which provides on last view of the valley below:
When the trail reaches the valley floor, it follows the river, crossing several creeks via swing bridges:
The river water is crystal clear with a turquoise hue I've never seen anywhere but over sandy bottoms behind tropical reefs. By the time reached that point of the trail the sun was overhead with harsh, contrasty lighting. I kept waiting for a shady spot to capture the blue river and unbelievably came away without an image at all.
All in all we loved the trip and highly recommend it. Due to the quality of the trail and transit of each section by at least a couple dozen people per day, the guides were not necessary as actual guides for experienced outdoors people like ourselves. But for the information they shared about local history, flora, and fauna, on the spot first aid support if needed, and handling of all the logistics including cooking/cleaning, it was well worth the "price of admission". They never hurried us along when we stopped for photographs, never refused to take our picture for us when asked, and never failed to be the picture of courtesy. When you then consider the constant presence of their unbeatable Kiwi hospitality, we considered them more like hosts or ambassadors for New Zealand.
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Alpha 99 & VG, 900x2 & VG; 50mm1.4, CZ135 1.8; CZ16-35 2.8, CZ24-70 2.8, G70-200 2.8, G70-400, Sony TC 1.4, F20, F58, F60.
My Photo Gallery:Northern Focus Photography
I wish I was half the man that my dog thinks I am...
Breath taking!! How fortunate you are to take such a beautiful trip and fortunate we are for your sharing.
My Photo Gallery:Northern Focus Photography
I wish I was half the man that my dog thinks I am...
My Gallery
My Photo Gallery:Northern Focus Photography
I wish I was half the man that my dog thinks I am...
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My Photo Gallery:Northern Focus Photography
I wish I was half the man that my dog thinks I am...
Nice shots!