OMG! Got some PocketWizards
darkdragon
Registered Users Posts: 1,051 Major grins
Got an early christmas present... PocketWizard Plus II x 3! :barb
I've already read the manual twice (just got them about 15 mins ago), now I just need to hook them up and try some test. I feel free from cords!
Now I need another flash...:D
I've already read the manual twice (just got them about 15 mins ago), now I just need to hook them up and try some test. I feel free from cords!
Now I need another flash...:D
~ Lisa
0
Comments
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Now I am jealous with only my modded cactus poverty wizards<o:p></o:p>
Rick-Matassa.smugmug.com/
i was testing them out last night and I love how simple it all is.
The only thing I haven't been able to figure out is how to use it to remote-trigger the camera. i followed the instructions in the book but it didn't work. more testing ahead.
On Canon, you set both PW's to the same channel. Plug the cord (mini-phone to Canon style three prong plug) from the PW to the proper slot on the camera. Press the test button and it should trigger the camera.
Portland, Oregon Photographer Pete Springer
website blog instagram facebook g+
That explains it
I don't have that cord, just the one for the flash to PW.
Yeah-- that cord it important. For Canon anyway, it's also very, very expensive (around a hundred buck, I think). A far cheaper method is to by an ebay knock-off Canon remote cord switch (usually available in Hong Kong), then cut it and splice it to a mini phone plug. There are directions somewhere on the web to which color cords to solder where-- but if you have a continuity meter (often built in to volt meters now), it's easy to figure out on your own.
Portland, Oregon Photographer Pete Springer
website blog instagram facebook g+
Rick-Matassa.smugmug.com/
Thanks for the offer!
I found a complete cable on ebay for about $15 (including shipping) which I think isn't bad at all. It looks like a really great item, I just have to wait a couple weeks to get it :cry
Does the PWII cause the camera to autofocus when used as a remote camera trigger? Does it have the "half-press to focus" capability? I was looking at this remote camera release and it does seem to have the ability to initiate the autofocus mechanism but I was wondering if the PocketWizards have a similar feature when used as a remote camera release.
Thanks! BTW, I am jealous of your new toys. Congrats!
I'm still new at this, but I think that is the feature of the cable and not the remote itself. The cable I ordered does have that ability and a switch to turn off the "half-press", which I think would probably save some battery power if it is not needed (for example, set the focus manually and leave it that way).
Alright, so my cable finally arrived from China. It works really well and has a switch to do the "shutter button halfway down" thing. I put the cam on AIServo. The PW triggered the cam just fine and the shots came out sharp. Then I wanted to throw in the flash to the mix.
Here's the issue I ran into though: The flash and camera were being triggered but the flash was not being caught on the photo. So there was some sort of timing issue. The instructions with the PW are not much, just how to hook the cords in.
Can anyone help me with this?
Here's my sketch of the setup. I was using PW-S as the triggering PocketWizard. I set it to "Remote", PW-F set to "local" and plugged into the flash's PC port and into PW's Camera/Flash port, PW-C set to "local" and plugged into the camera's remote port and into PW's Camera/Flash port.
- Flash fires
- Done
The flash, I think is popping before the camera is ready for exposure.The fix? Maybe turn off AF and pre-focus. Now the shutter won't have an excuse to delay and will be open when the flash fires.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile
1. Set the camera to M (Manual)
2. Select a shutter speed between 1/60s and 1/200s to start with
3. Focus the lens and turn AF off (on the lens)
4. Fire a testshot and adjust aperature or flash power until the light level is what you like.
― Edward Weston
I tried doing as suggested.
I think you are right as far as what is happening, but I haven't been able to figure out a way around it yet.
This time the setup is the same as my earlier post except the camera is all in manual (so is the flash).
Camera on M; 1/25; f8; iso400; manual focus; IS off
Flash on M; 1/4 power
Still my images were not catching the flash. Any other tips that I can try? I'd really like to get this situation to work - is anyone using pocket wizards in this way?
1. Turn any pre flash (sometimes used for focusing or metering, so check those menu settings too) off.
2. Toggle rear/first curtain flash sync and see if it has some effect.
(3. You said your camera is on M, thats good because if it is on AV or TV strange things can happen because the camera controls the sync speed for you.)
I don't have the PW but would check there if they have a delay or preflash
setting. If this is happening then you should be able to record the flash with
your camera on first curtain sync and a longer exposure time (1/2 sec or so).
― Edward Weston
I don't think there is any pre-flash on the camera because it doesn't even know there is a flash 2ft away and I pre-focused it and then locked the focus, but i'll check that.
I'll check the curtains, not sure how that would affect the PW flash but I'll try it differently. I'm pretty sure I have it set for 2nd curtain because i like everything better that way.
MY PW's are very simple, there is only On/Off, Test, Channel, and Transmit Mode (local, both, remote) - so I don't think there is much there I can change around.
I don't want to mess with the shutter speed anymore because it is already grabbing more ambient then I want. The thing I am trying to get to work is have a remote camera and remote flash controled by a triggering PW.
Read your PW manual carefully...
To do what you are trying, you need to make sure the units are plugged into the right input on top, and also, when using a remote to trigger the camera, then another one for the flash, you have to set the channels different. I can't recall by memory the exact setup, but I do remember that the flash PW will have to be set one channel higher.
Also, why would you set your AF to AIServo? That's for focus tracking. On a tripod mounted/fixed mounted camera, the subject would have to be on a perfect line toward the camera. Just use One Shot focus setting.
Thanks for the help Randy, I think what I did wrong in this setup was forgot about the channels - I seem to recall that being in the little manual. I will recheck the manual and do the test over again tonight (and report back here). I'm sure that is the issue now that you mention it.
The reason I set the AF to servo was because I was thinking a setup like this could be used mounted in an unreachable area for sports so pre-focus wouldn't work. That was just an idea i had and thought I'd test/learn before going somewhere and finding out it doesn't work
Once i fixed the channels I was fine. Everything else I had set up correctly.
Glad that worked out for you Lisa
OK, let's see some "remote" shots.
I used my PW for real for the first time today, to do a very short animation test. Stop-Motion, all images were taken with my 40D and edited in Final Cut Pro.
Here is the setup, as you can see I'm using the PW to control the camera shutter wirelessly (so I can sit by the model and not have to get up and down for each shot).
Here is the video:
<object width="425" height="318"><param name="movie" value="http://cdn.smugmug.com/ria/ShizVidz-2008120101.swf" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="flashVars" value="s=ZT0xJmk9NDYxODQ2MDg4Jms9YUJSTGUmYT03MTkyNDcwX0xGWmRCJnU9ZGFya2RyYWdvbg==" /><embed src="http://cdn.smugmug.com/ria/ShizVidz-2008120101.swf" flashVars="s=ZT0xJmk9NDYxODQ2MDg4Jms9YUJSTGUmYT03MTkyNDcwX0xGWmRCJnU9ZGFya2RyYWdvbg==" width="425" height="318" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullScreen="true"></embed></object>
― Edward Weston
haha! Yeah true, I can do that and this setup is really small and PW is a bit overkill here. This was really just a test though, and normally the camera is farther away from the models. Sometimes it is very tough to navigate from models to camera and it would tripple (or more) the time to get the shots. A long cable won't always work either.
Besides, in the grand scheme of making movies - $300 for 2 PWs is not very much money.
Cute short video also.
2x White Lightning x1600 | 580 EXII
Sekonic L-358 | 2x Pocket Wizard II | TC-80N3 Remote Shutter
Nice vid. LoL.
dak.smugmug.com
can I ask a really stupid question?
As i understand it, a pocket wizard controls the off camera flash, in a similar way to a 580 controlling the 430s (in the Canon world).
Why do you need more than one pocket wizard? do you have to have one on the receiving end?
Las Cruces Photographer / Las Cruces Wedding Photographer
Other site
Kind of. The Pocket Wizard only sends a signal telling the other pocket wizards to fire, so there's no TTL control.
And they're like walkie talkies that can used with almost any flash or camera. The camera has a pocket wizard in it's hot shoe and when it fires it sends a signal to any other nearby pocket wizard on the same channel. If you have 5 flashes, you need 6 PW's. One on the camera to send the signal and one on each flash to receive. If a flash doesn't have a PW (walkie talkie), it can't hear the signal to fire.
What makes PW's special (expensinve) is the compatibility with other products and the fact that they're transceivers. They can transmit and receive. So if I'm on a shoot and I break the one on my camera for what ever reason, I can just grab another one and work instead of being screwed because my one and only receiver is dead.
Plus brands like profoto and sekonic offer devices with pocket wizard receivers built in, so you can work with exsisting equipment and not have to worry about a trigger hanging off a strobe or sync cables running from your light meter.
Thanks for the helpful information. I was just wanting another flash and was thinking if i bought a
ST-E2
I could take the 580 off the camera. When I am using umbrellas, I don't really need (or want) the flash on the camera anyway. the obvious disadvantage of using PWs is expense -- 3 X 200 instead of 200.
Las Cruces Photographer / Las Cruces Wedding Photographer
Other site
Elinchrom makes Skyports which are half the price and reliable.
Paul C. Buff of Alien Bees fame makes the Cyber Syncs which are even cheaper and reliable.
Radio Poppers are working on a Jr. version which if it ever comes out will be fairly cheap and probably just a reliable as their last set.
I think with the Cyber Syncs, you can get a transmitter and two receivers for under $300. You just don't retain TTL. Radio is better if you're in adverse conditions though. I have a friend that uses Nikon CLS and he bought a set of the cheap Gadget Infinity radio triggers (unreliable) to use for when his IR transmitter won't work because of other lights interfering (the sun) or that they're placed in a position where it just doesn't want to work.
Edit: Actually, I just checked, the Cyber Syncs have the transmitter for $59 and the receivers for $69. That's about $200 for a transmitter and two receivers.