Sekonic L-358

MDalby

For a rookie photographer, is this worth the investment? I want to make sure that I am using the correct ISO. It seems like the shutter speed, aperature and WB (echo disc) are able to be slam dunks. I am having issues with hte correct ISO.

This is primarily for sports and basketball in particular.

Thanks,

MD

pathfinder

I do not understand the need for a separate light meter from the one in your DSLR with the histogram display.

I do own and use a Sekonic L-358. I like it too. I think it is a great flashmeter, and very handy for this.

It is also a very accurate incident light meter, but not a very handy reflective meter, and not a spot meter at all. ( at least without an attachment.)

To really use the incident meter, you would need to be down on the court with the players I would think. Maybe you are shooting from the floor, rather than the stands - it would probably work well then, but once you have the reading it won't change from moment to moment.

The light in a gymnasium is fixed, not changing that much. Once you know the correct exposure, why not put your camera in manual mode and just shoot with that? Admittedly, whether the players are looking up or down will influence the exposure on their faces, just as it alters the color balance quite a bit, from tungsten to yellow reflections off the gym floor.

Try using your histogram to tell you what the correct exposure is, and then just dial it in and use it in manual mode. Measure with player looking up and down, and see how many stops variation there is and dial it in if need be. Or consider the spot meter function in the meter in your camera if it has it.

Nikolai

For what you're doing, you don't need it. Get a faster glass instead.

MDalby

Nikolai wrote:

For what you're doing, you don't need it. Get a faster glass instead.

Thanks for the input. I am just looking any edge I can get to get the best photos.

I already have fast glass.

Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8D VR Lens
Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AF D
Nikon 35-70mm f/2.8 D

Art Scott

MDalby wrote:

Thanks for the input. I am just looking any edge I can get to get the best photos.

I already have fast glass.

Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8D VR Lens
Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AF D
Nikon 35-70mm f/2.8 D

you should be able to get decent pics with your glass at ISO 400.....for me the iso is my foundation not a building block......I have been a very low iso user for a very long time....my very first roll of film was iso 64...then 32...I was always reluctant to venture above iso 100....and when i did shoot iso 400 it was all crap....and I metered and did eveything I normally did......so until digital I stuck with staying at or below iso 100.....

So start at Iso 400...depending on what you wish to obtain...either meter average metering mode, center weighted or spot....with your camera.......for B-ball I would probably opt for center weight averg or spot.....unless doing a crowd shot then i would opt for center weighted or an average metering mode....

Nikolai

Another line of thoughts: switch to Canon, you will be able to use ISO1600 without too many problems

Art Scott

MDalby wrote:

For a rookie photographer, is this worth the investment? I want to make sure that I am using the correct ISO. It seems like the shutter speed, aperature and WB (echo disc) are able to be slam dunks. I am having issues with hte correct ISO.

This is primarily for sports and basketball in particular.

Thanks,

MD

YES....it is a very worthy investment....but not for sports.....it was designed as a flash meter first and then an ambient incident / reflective meter second....as a incident flash meter it really can't be beat for its value.....for a reflective meter...you have your camera.......as an ambient incident meter (for portraits and such) it is very valuable......for sports shooting leave it home................

Art Scott

Nikolai wrote:

Another line of thoughts: switch to Canon, you will be able to use ISO1600 without too many problems

With the D300 iso 1600 should be no problem either.......Nikolai :nono:nono

Nikolai

Art Scott wrote:

With the D300 iso 1600 should be no problem either...

Yeah.. Finally... It's about time you guys started playing in high-ISO sector

Still, as the OP goes: lightmeter and sports photogrpahy do not have too many things in common

Art Scott

Nikolai wrote:

Yeah.. Finally... It's about time you guys started playing in high-ISO sector
one should only go as high as needed....Ohhhhh knobe won

Still, as the OP goes: lightmeter and sports photogrpahy do not have too many things in common
I totally agree......

I refused to go high ISO with film....I shot many single rolls over time and none of it worked out as it was supposed to........for me.....

I still live by my motto of stay as low as possible and only get as high as you have to get the image the way you want...

Scott_Quier

Disclaimer: I'm not a sports photographer but I shoot action at every gig - the rehearsal is all about captureing the action in the right way. The following is how I would approach the problem of shooting a sporting event.

In sports photography, shutter speed is, I believe, one of the most important setting to control. You have to be able stop the action when you want, drag the shutter a bit to get blur when that's needed, etc.

At many venues, especially indoors, the light doesn't change much. And when it does, it does so over time. I would think this would be a wonderful situation in which to shoot manual - at least until you have your head around what settings you need to get the job done right at that event. So, figure out what shutter speed you need for a particular sitation. Now, what aperture do you need for the desired DOF. Take a test shot and look at the histogram. Is it right? If not, adjust the ISO until you get it right. Now you have an expsoure setting to use as a sanity check.

If you wish, now you can select Tv and your desired shutter speed. How's the aperture look? Is it still right? If not, you can apply some Expsoure Compensation and there you go....

As for reading/using the historgram, Michael Reichmann has some very good advice/information on how and why one would Expose (to the) Right. Shooting digital, it is desirable to shoot to the right a bit and then bring it down in post if needed rather than the other way around.