White Balance Lens Cap?

mpaulie

Has anyone heard of or used this? It claims to give you a perfect custom white balance profile by shooting through this lens cap.

http://photojojo.com/store/awesomeness/white-balance-lens-cap/

from the site...
"Simply flip your camera into custom White Balance mode, snap a photo with your White Balance Lens Cap on, and your camera creates a perfect profile of the actual lighting in front of you.
Best of all, unlike a gray card, the White Balance Cap takes no extra room in your gear bag. Just replace your existing lens cap with this one and you'll always be able to white balance with no additional equipment.
Squeeze the White Balance Lens Cap's side tabs for easy attachment or removal, even with a lens hood in place. The center pinch-release mechanism prevents it from accidentally being bumped off, while in your bag or shooting in a crowd.
Each White Balance Lens Cap comes with both a neutral and a warm color dome. Pick whichever you prefer and give all your photos perfectly consistent white balance."


Michael

eoren1

that's funny Michael, saw the same item (I think on Lifehacker). I have it bookmarked on my browser and was going to ask in here as well. Will await the word of others. Seems a bit pricey but may be well worth it.
E

cmason

eoren1 wrote:

that's funny Michael, saw the same item (I think on Lifehacker). I have it bookmarked on my browser and was going to ask in here as well. Will await the word of others. Seems a bit pricey but may be well worth it.
E

Guys, there are loads of these things. There is another thread on a similar device: http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=115581

Also, search Dgrin for "Expodisc" for more discussion.

Doing custom white balance in camera does not require a special tool, lens cap or other. Canon user guide says you can use anything white, but I get more consistent results using a cheap grey card. The workflow is the same whether you use a white wall, grey card or lens cap, so there is no advantage to the cap, imho.

But, there are plenty of others that love the caps, so I am sure they will chime in.

ziggy53

There are a few potential problems with the "lens cap" WB (and exposure) devices:

1) You need a different sized one for each different lens that you use.

2) It's hard to gauge how much stray light, including reflected light, is hitting the device. (That might affect the device more than a potential subject might be affected.)

3) Most "cap" devices work best by requiring you to point the camera towards the light from the position and perspective of the subject, not always convenient to do.

My own recommendation is to:

Use a calibrated gray card in the scene to set exposure.

Use a calibrated white target in the scene to set WB.

In mixed WB lighting you "must" shoot RAW and then use custom Curves, and other corrective actions, in post-processing software. "No" device will successfully accommodate the problems induced in mixed lighting otherwise.

NeilL

ziggy53 wrote:

You need a different sized one for each different lens that you use.

This appears to be an exception, and exceptionally high quality. I have been considering this.

http://phoxle.homestead.com/SpectraSnapWBFilters.html

Sound advice, Ziggy, which has made me reconsider getting the above.

wildviper

can't we just use styrofoam for the white and create a 18% card?

I mean, can we just print 18% gray on a piece of paper or card from a laserprinter with high resoultion?

ziggy53

wildviper wrote:

can't we just use styrofoam for the white and create a 18% card?

I mean, can we just print 18% gray on a piece of paper or card from a laserprinter with high resoultion?

How white is the styrofoam?

Is the laser printer calibrated so that you know it is an 18% gray?

A good start for any photographer is the Kodak R-27 Gray Cards package:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27715-REG/Kodak_1903061_Gray_Cards.html

pathfinder

wildviper wrote:

can't we just use styrofoam for the white and create a 18% card?

I mean, can we just print 18% gray on a piece of paper or card from a laserprinter with high resoultion?

This topic has been discussed here on dgrin, by icebear and myself, and we agree, the answer is a resounding 'no'!!

Read why here and here

mpaulie

Thanks for all the advice and links to good information. I guess the best way (and inexpensive way) to go is buy the Kodak gray cards.

Much appreciated!

Michael

divamum

mpaulie wrote:

Thanks for all the advice and links to good information. I guess the best way (and inexpensive way) to go is buy the Kodak gray cards.

Much appreciated!

Michael

Some even cheaper - ie free - possibilities were suggested recently in this thread (Glidden paint strips!)

ziggy53

mpaulie wrote:

... I guess the best way (and inexpensive way) to go is buy the Kodak gray cards.

...

Maybe not the "best" or only product to trust but I can say that comparisons between a new Kodak gray card set and a very old one (my father's and probably around 40 years old) appear to be remarkably consistent.

I have not tested the Kodak card to see how well it does under different electronic flash units, but it does seem pretty reliable for most other ambient light.

I certainly have no regrets in purchasing the Kodak gray card set.

rwells

pathfinder wrote:

This topic has been discussed here on dgrin, by icebear and myself, and we agree, the answer is a resounding 'no'!!

Read why here and here

These are excellent post. Well worth your while to read.


No disrespect to Ziggy, but for a lot of situations, it's just not practical to place a white or grey card in a shot. Lets say your shooting sports. Can you have a bull rider hold a grey card for you? Football player, etc...

Besides, if you do use grey/white cards, that means you still have something to adjust in post processing. Another step.

Why not just take a ExpoDisk shot, set the custom WB and be done with it?

I've posted many times on the proper use of the ExpoDisk here, and why its a good solution. I, unlike pathfinder, did not go back and search the threads for you. I'll leave that to your own research.

So, I'll once again give a strong vote for the Original ExpoDisk. (I don't have any experience with the cap version)

cmason

rwells wrote:

No disrespect to Ziggy, but for a lot of situations, it's just not practical to place a white or grey card in a shot. Lets say your shooting sports. Can you have a bull rider hold a grey card for you? Football player, etc...

So, I'll once again give a strong vote for the Original ExpoDisk. (I don't have any experience with the cap version)

Excellent comments, and good observation from a pro making $$ shooting.

I do not make money on shooting, and this is a hobby for me. So please take my comments accordingly. I have the WhiBal card, and like it, though I sometimes think $30 was too much!

In any case, I find that siimply taking a picture of the Whitbal, while waiting for action ( I toss it down at my feet during soccer games) or just as I arrive on location, is easy to do. I don't do custom white balance in camera except for indoors, because what usually happens is I forget to redo the balance when I change locations, and screw it up.

So, by taking a photo of the WhitBal at each location, I simply take my image of the WhitBal in Lightroom, click on it for custom White Balance, and they copy or sync the white balance settings to all other images at that location. It takes about 1 min max.

Anyway, I find it very simple and flexible, and perfect for me, since I am also one to always forget the key mantra: " Did you check your ISO today?"

rwells

cmason wrote:

Excellent comments, and good observation from a pro making $$ shooting.

I do not make money on shooting, and this is a hobby for me. So please take my comments accordingly. I have the WhiBal card, and like it, though I sometimes think $30 was too much!

In any case, I find that siimply taking a picture of the Whitbal, while waiting for action ( I toss it down at my feet during soccer games) or just as I arrive on location, is easy to do. I don't do custom white balance in camera except for indoors, because what usually happens is I forget to redo the balance when I change locations, and screw it up.

So, by taking a photo of the WhitBal at each location, I simply take my image of the WhitBal in Lightroom, click on it for custom White Balance, and they copy or sync the white balance settings to all other images at that location. It takes about 1 min max.

Anyway, I find it very simple and flexible, and perfect for me, since I am also one to always forget the key mantra: " Did you check your ISO today?"

Hey cmason,

The most important thing here, is that you are using something for WB control/correction

I have had excellent results using the ExpoDisk, but that doesn't mean that everyone has to like it and use it.

I'm probably reading your post wrong, but it sounds like with the WhiteBal, your taking a shot of it (presumably under some kind of lighting), then using that in post to set all that sessions WB. Right?

If so, I would caution you to not use AutoWB when you shoot your gig. It will jump all over the place kelvin wise, so your one shot with the WhiteBal will be very limited to all the rest of your pics.

If that's the method you like using, I would suggest picking whatever pre-canned WB in the camera (shade, sun, tungsten, etc) and stick with that all through your shoot. That way, the AutoWB isn't changing kelvin at every whim of different lighting spots, reflected tones, etc.

If you already do this & I didn't read your post right...Nevermind


Hope that helps...

cmason

Thanks Randy. Actually I usually leave the camera on AWB, but I shoot only RAW, so not sure if this is too much of an issue. Thats why I try to always take a WB reference shot.

Are you saying that I should worry about the relative WB the camera is set too even when shooting RAW?

I do, however, use custom white balance indoors, since moving around can be a real mess WB wise. When I am shooting portraits, I also take a custom WB, since it doesnt change with my flash. Outdoors, I find I dont need to do it much, but again, I take a shot of the reference in the location light for adjusting in post. I have alot of great photos of the WhitBal if anyone is interested !

rwells

cmason wrote:

Thanks Randy. Actually I usually leave the camera on AWB, but I shoot only RAW, so not sure if this is too much of an issue. Thats why I try to always take a WB reference shot.

Are you saying that I should worry about the relative WB the camera is set too even when shooting RAW?

I do, however, use custom white balance indoors, since moving around can be a real mess WB wise. When I am shooting portraits, I also take a custom WB, since it doesnt change with my flash. Outdoors, I find I dont need to do it much, but again, I take a shot of the reference in the location light for adjusting in post. I have alot of great photos of the WhitBal if anyone is interested !

If your shooting RAW, then really its a mute point other than less time to initially set your WB in post.

Glad to see your concerned enough with WB to keep herd on it

zack75144

I'm using the lens cap, I bought it to deal with the mixed lighting in the cave-like gym I shoot in. I imagine it works like the expo disk in that it uses ambient light instead of the reflected light off a white card. (At least that's the hook the salesman used on me!)
You don't have to buy one for every lens, I use it on my 24-70L to set the Custom WB then pop on the 135L to shoot the game.

NeilL

zack75144 wrote:

You don't have to buy one for every lens, I use it on my 24-70L to set the Custom WB then pop on the 135L to shoot the game.

Impressive logic!

Manfr3d

In my opinion a WhiBal would be much more handy, no fumbling around with lenscaps: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/accessories/whibal.shtml

jchin

Do you use a flash diffuser?

I've done this and it works well.
Put the lens on manual focus, make it out of focus, placed my OmniBounce diffuser in front of the lens, point towards the subject and click.
I now have a white balance reference.
Select "custom WB" in the camera and I am good 98% of the time.

Just remember to put the lens back to auto focus. I've forgot that a few times for the first few frames.

NeilL

Manfr3d wrote:

In my opinion a WhiBal would be much more handy, no fumbling around with lenscaps: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/accessories/whibal.shtml

mmm... the plot thickens... another change of mind?...

Thanks for the link. I know this site, and have been thinking of getting LensAlign

chrismoore

newbie gray card question
I read through this thread and others that have suggested 18% gray cards can help set the exposure. I ordered the kodak one for a few dollars but was wondering on the proper way to use it. I'm guessing I meter the camera at the gray card, put those settings in manual mode and then recompose the shot? Can the card be held up just a few feet from the camera or should it be metered at the same distance of the subject? (not always practical for landscape shots)? thanks for helping me with this simple problem.

ziggy53

chrismoore wrote:

I read through this thread and others that have suggested 18% gray cards can help set the exposure. I ordered the kodak one for a few dollars but was wondering on the proper way to use it. I'm guessing I meter the camera at the gray card, put those settings in manual mode and then recompose the shot? Can the card be held up just a few feet from the camera or should it be metered at the same distance of the subject? (not always practical for landscape shots)? thanks for helping me with this simple problem.

Using a gray card to set exposure can be valuable when your subject has tonality close to middle gray. When the subject is very bright or very dark, or when the scene exceeds the dynamic range of the ability of the camera to render, then you are better off using different techniques.

In digital photography you are almost always better to "expose to the right" and then "process for the subject". When the total dynamic range of the scene is shallow, the process of exposing to the right allows a better overall sampling which can then be adjusted back to normal tones in post. The result can be more overall information from which to process and which results in better noise suppression, especially valuable at low light levels.

When you are dealing with a very broad dynamic range you still need to expose to the right but protect the highlights from overexposure where necessary. (Some highlights may be unimportant to the image and may be intentionally overexposed as needed.)

You may use a gray card at a distance from the subject or scene when you and the card are in similar lighting as the subject or scene. Obviously, if you are in different lighting you should adjust accordingly.

It should be apparent that a gray card may also be used to sample for excess dynamic range. If you include the gray card in a shot and if you note the rather obvious spike it produces is in the center of the histogram and if you see "blinkies" on the highlights, those blinkie elements of the image are beyond the ability of the camera to capture full detail at the ideal exposure for the camera.