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Is it ok to adjust brightness?

Unbrok3nUnbrok3n Registered Users Posts: 444 Major grins
edited January 7, 2009 in Finishing School
So, after trial and error, I realized that I should have been soft proofing my images in PS all along but I havnt.
After soft proofing and getting some prints, Ive found that the prints are a little darker than I would like.
My question is whether or not it is ok to just simply go in, use an adjustment layer brightness/contrast, bring up the brightness a little, and save?
Should I just do this, then save that as a separate jpeg for printing?
Will this adjustment layer affect the overall quality of the image?
(I basically just use curves and usm)
I appreciate any input. Thanks!
graphic designer/photographer

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    billg71billg71 Registered Users Posts: 56 Big grins
    edited January 5, 2009
    Unbrok3n wrote:
    So, after trial and error, I realized that I should have been soft proofing my images in PS all along but I havnt.
    After soft proofing and getting some prints, Ive found that the prints are a little darker than I would like.
    My question is whether or not it is ok to just simply go in, use an adjustment layer brightness/contrast, bring up the brightness a little, and save?
    Should I just do this, then save that as a separate jpeg for printing?
    Will this adjustment layer affect the overall quality of the image?
    (I basically just use curves and usm)
    I appreciate any input. Thanks!

    Try profiling your monitor again and dropping the luminance about 10 points.... Then see if you get a good levels match on your test prints.

    Bill
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    Unbrok3nUnbrok3n Registered Users Posts: 444 Major grins
    edited January 5, 2009
    so try lowering it 10 points below the target luminance while calibrating?
    graphic designer/photographer
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    Unbrok3nUnbrok3n Registered Users Posts: 444 Major grins
    edited January 5, 2009
    also, what im saying is that i have a bunch of photos edited to what i thought was a match...but isnt.
    so re-calibrating will help in the future, but i need to fix the ones that I already did.
    so...ya...haha
    which is why i was wondering about the brightness in photoshop...
    graphic designer/photographer
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    billg71billg71 Registered Users Posts: 56 Big grins
    edited January 5, 2009
    Lower your target luminance. Ten points is just a starting point, you may have to go more(or less). It depends on the monitor and the print viewing conditions. The idea is for the white of the paper to match white on the monitor.

    As far as adding a layer for luminance corrections, it won't hurt anything as long as you don't end up blowing highlights. You might do better with a Curves layer, try it and see if you can make it work. BUT, if you're talking about adding a layer to a jpeg you've already processed and saved, you'll lose quality when you save it again due to the jpeg compression. If that's the case, try one and see if you can tell a difference. If you're printing small you'll probably be OK.

    HTH,
    Bill
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    arodneyarodney Registered Users Posts: 2,005 Major grins
    edited January 7, 2009
    Unbrok3n wrote:
    So, after trial and error, I realized that I should have been soft proofing my images in PS all along but I havnt.
    After soft proofing and getting some prints, Ive found that the prints are a little darker than I would like.
    My question is whether or not it is ok to just simply go in, use an adjustment layer brightness/contrast, bring up the brightness a little, and save?

    First off, luminance calibration is based on print matching! If the print is too light or dark compared to the display, you can alter the calibration luminance (if you can go lower, some LCD's can't go very low) OR raise the light on the print. The print and display should match WITH soft proof on as well as with the Simulate paper white and black check boxes. That will alter the display contrast (which is always way too high) to match the print which is quite low. It produces a muddy appearing effect which is normal, especially disconcerting if you view the update on screen.

    Open the original with the soft proof on (simulate too), make a duplicate image with NO soft proofing and have the two side by side at the same zoom ration. The duplicate is simply a "guide" to the image without soft proof. Using adjustment layers, you can pull a slight curve, alter slightly the hue/sat on the layers to get a closer match between the two previews. This is very subtle work! You'll never got the two to perfectly match due to differences in gamut and contrast. But you can get closer.

    Once you're done with the two or three adjustment layers, pop them in a layer stack and name it with the printer profile you used as well as rendering intent. You can now toggle that stack on and off when printing. You can have multiple layer stacks for different papers, just be sure they are properly labeled and you turn them on and off appropriately. You can even drag and drop the layer stacks from image to image. The soft proof "tweaks" should carry over well, often you will not need to reedit one of the adjustment layers.

    As important as display calibration, so is print viewing conditions (the proper illuminant in terms of its color as well as luminance). Also, the print viewing booth needs to sit near the display but not spill light onto that display surface or raise to high, the ambient light of the area. Of course both need to be side by side (actually 90 degrees), otherwise, how can you evaluate screen to print matching if you can't quickly see both?
    Andrew Rodney
    Author "Color Management for Photographers"
    http://www.digitaldog.net/
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    Unbrok3nUnbrok3n Registered Users Posts: 444 Major grins
    edited January 7, 2009
    thank you for the reply arodney!
    i think its a little over my head, but im always up for experimentation!
    I think im getting closer to results I want, but when it comes down it, I really want to put some of my work up...
    sooo
    anyway, thanks again!
    graphic designer/photographer
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