Help & why does this happen
Frustrated, yes! I have a sony DSLRa100. This photo was shot in aperture mode, setting for sun, WB checked and its still a wash. Any helpful hints? So many of my photos are washed out, if I leave the camera on auto, its less likely to happen, but then what is the point of having all those other cool little buttons Hope this is the right forum.
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14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
This is simply overexposed. I don't know much about Sony cameras, but I wonder what metering mode you were using. If you were using spot metering on a dark area, that might explain the result.
Exif data? I'm too new at this!
ISO 400 and F10 might be overkill for a bright, sunny beach shot. Is it possible to shoot in Auto, and then see the resulting ISO/F-stop/shutter speed info for a picture? That would give you a possible starting point to consider before going into a more manual mode. IMHO, ISO 400 was probably the weak link; why so high? I target for lowest possible ISO that still yeild desired result. Higher ISO leads to noise issues.
Canon 50D, 30D and Digital Rebel (plus some old friends - FTB and AE1)
Long-time amateur.....wishing for more time to play
Autocross and Track junkie
tonyp.smugmug.com
As much as I read and re-read how to use this camera, I'm just not getting any better!
I'm glad I found this forum, I have a feeling I'm going to learn a lot! Thanks!
This is a definite possibility, but it's hard to see in this image what dark part the camera has tried to render grey .
To take a step back for the original poster: When a camera tries to expose a picture, it tries to make the object its meter is pointing at turn out grey in the image. So if it meters off something black, it'll try to make that grey and thus overexpose everything else that is brighter than black. Conversely, if the camera points at something white, it will also try to render this grey, which will underexpose all the darker objects in the picture. Moral of the story: pay attention to what your camera meter is pointing at and try to keep it from getting fooled by too light or too dark objects. Otherwise, you have to take the next step: exposure compensation.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
1/200th f11 ISO 100 is the correct exposure for a normal subject in sunshine during the day. 1/400 is one stop less for the bright reflecting light on a beach.
If they are backlit, or in the shade, they will need three stops more light.
The exif data has been stripped from the image posted in this thread so we have no idea what what the actual exposure. Until we have that, all anyone can do is speculate or make a guess.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Pathfinder's will work for the most part, but there is another reason to keep your ISO as low as it will go. I don't know if you've noticed or not but the chip in the older Sony models really starts to ramp up the digital noise as soon as you go over ISO 400 and it is noticeable even at ISO 400. The ISO on film was the sensitivity of the film which was related to the size of the grains of photosensitive chemicals. Lower ISO, smaller grains, longer exposure time but clearer picture. With digital it is the length of time that the sensor has to accurately record the scene and clear up any mistakes that the sensor makes. I've heard good things about the newer Nikons and Canons at high ISO not having much noise but we are not in that camp.
I hope this helps. If you have any other questions about your alpha, I've been through hell trying to get it to do things that Sony decided weren't all that important (off camera, studio lighting) and gotten it to work so I can probably help. It is a wonderful camera with a lot of strengths and I'm glad that I stuck with it instead of switching to Canon or Nikon.
"Upgrade hubby, pictures get betta!" - Mr. Miyagi
On a serious note, check the metering also and like everyone else's said..