Moi!

shniksshniks Registered Users Posts: 945 Major grins
edited January 20, 2009 in People
The last time around I did a self-portrait, which did not turn out too nice as I had to handhold the flash. This time I went prepared with a lightstand (couldn't still use an umbrella as a wind was blowing). Here is the result...


440443019_oRr5T-L-7.jpg


Cheers,
Nikhil

My Website | My Blog | My Facebook Page | My YouTube

Comments

  • WingsOfLovePhotoWingsOfLovePhoto Registered Users Posts: 797 Major grins
    edited January 19, 2009
    Very contemporary. What a great veiw of your city! I'm really bad at history so can you tell me where you are?
    Snady :thumb
    my money well spent :D
    Nikon D4, D3s, D3, D700, Nikkor 24-70, 70-200 2.8 vrII, 50mm 1.4, 85mm 1.4, 105mm macro, sigma fisheye, SB 800's and lots of other goodies!
  • shniksshniks Registered Users Posts: 945 Major grins
    edited January 19, 2009
    WingsOfLovePhoto wrote:
    Very contemporary. What a great veiw of your city! I'm really bad at history so can you tell me where you are?


    Hey Sandy- this is Los Angeles. You can see 'Griffith Observatory' in the background.


    Cheers,
    Nikhil

    My Website | My Blog | My Facebook Page | My YouTube
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited January 19, 2009
    What a neat shot - sp yes, but more than that because of the amazing view providing context. thumb.gifthumb
    facebook | photo site |
  • lisaplisap Registered Users Posts: 294 Major grins
    edited January 19, 2009
    What a cool backdrop for your SP. The city just goes on and on behind you. Is it tough to get the lighting on you and also to get a nice shot of the city lights at night in the background?

    - Lisa P.
    -- Lisa P.

    http://www.pictureyourlifephotography.com
  • Candid ArtsCandid Arts Registered Users Posts: 1,685 Major grins
    edited January 19, 2009
    lisap wrote:
    Is it tough to get the lighting on you and also to get a nice shot of the city lights at night in the background?

    - Lisa P.

    No not really. As long as you have a flash that has the right features. Hi-speed sync, 2nd curtain flash... Set the camera to expose the background properly and use the hi-speed sync so the flash doesn't set it's sync speed at 1/250th (or whatever you have it set to) and use 2nd curtain sync so the flash fires just as the shutter is closing.

    Excellent photo though. City looks huge! (as it is...)
    Candid Arts Photography | Portland Oregon | Fine Art
    OneTwoFiftieth | Portland, Oregon | Modern Portraiture

    My Equipment:
    Bodies: Canon 50D, Canon EOS 1
    Lenses: Canon 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS, Canon 50mm f/1.4, Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8
    Lighting: Canon 580EXII, Canon 420 EX, 12" Reflector, Pocket Wizard Plus II (3), AB800 (3), Large Softbox
    Stability: Manfrotto 190CXPRO3 Tripod, Manfrotto 488RC4 Ball Head, Manfrotto 679B Monopod
  • shniksshniks Registered Users Posts: 945 Major grins
    edited January 19, 2009
    lisap wrote:
    What a cool backdrop for your SP. The city just goes on and on behind you. Is it tough to get the lighting on you and also to get a nice shot of the city lights at night in the background?

    - Lisa P.


    Bryce pretty much covered it. Although you can do without the FP sync if you don't have that feature. I normally first expose for the background. Once you have that (the shutter speed and the aperture), set the camera to manual and dial the shutter speed (which should be at or below the sync speed, which in most cases is around 1/250s) and aperture in (the ones you obtained earlier). Then you simply adjust the power of the flash for the aperture you have set on your camera. Remember the shutter speed (and aperture) affect the ambient exposure while the aperture only affects the flash exposure.

    Try it out- it's a lot of fun!


    Cheers,
    Nikhil

    My Website | My Blog | My Facebook Page | My YouTube
  • Candid ArtsCandid Arts Registered Users Posts: 1,685 Major grins
    edited January 19, 2009
    shniks wrote:
    I normally first expose for the background. Once you have that (the shutter speed and the aperture), set the camera to manual and dial the shutter speed (which should be at or below the sync speed, which in most cases is around 1/250s) and aperture in (the ones you obtained earlier).

    Depending on your camera, instead of exposing the photo, then switching it to manual and setting everything up the way your camera did, you can just push the exposure lock button (which on my 50D it's a asterisk (*) thing). That way it locks the exposure for the background, set up your flash and shoot. Kind of eliminates the switching it to manual and resetting all the shutter speed and aperture and what not.
    Candid Arts Photography | Portland Oregon | Fine Art
    OneTwoFiftieth | Portland, Oregon | Modern Portraiture

    My Equipment:
    Bodies: Canon 50D, Canon EOS 1
    Lenses: Canon 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS, Canon 50mm f/1.4, Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8
    Lighting: Canon 580EXII, Canon 420 EX, 12" Reflector, Pocket Wizard Plus II (3), AB800 (3), Large Softbox
    Stability: Manfrotto 190CXPRO3 Tripod, Manfrotto 488RC4 Ball Head, Manfrotto 679B Monopod
  • shniksshniks Registered Users Posts: 945 Major grins
    edited January 19, 2009
    Candid Arts wrote:
    Depending on your camera, instead of exposing the photo, then switching it to manual and setting everything up the way your camera did, you can just push the exposure lock button (which on my 50D it's a asterisk (*) thing). That way it locks the exposure for the background, set up your flash and shoot. Kind of eliminates the switching it to manual and resetting all the shutter speed and aperture and what not.


    My situations are normally unique as the ambient light is changing very fast (as I shoot such scenes at dusk) and consequently the exposure. I thus find setting it on manual the most convenient (which in itself is only turning a dial to M), leaving the aperture where it is and then adjusting the shutter speed for the exposure. I guess it's horses for courses right? :D


    Cheers,
    Nikhil

    My Website | My Blog | My Facebook Page | My YouTube
  • lisaplisap Registered Users Posts: 294 Major grins
    edited January 20, 2009
    Candid Arts wrote:
    No not really. As long as you have a flash that has the right features. Hi-speed sync, 2nd curtain flash... Set the camera to expose the background properly and use the hi-speed sync so the flash doesn't set it's sync speed at 1/250th (or whatever you have it set to) and use 2nd curtain sync so the flash fires just as the shutter is closing.
    shniks wrote:
    Bryce pretty much covered it. Although you can do without the FP sync if you don't have that feature. I normally first expose for the background. Once you have that (the shutter speed and the aperture), set the camera to manual and dial the shutter speed (which should be at or below the sync speed, which in most cases is around 1/250s) and aperture in (the ones you obtained earlier). Then you simply adjust the power of the flash for the aperture you have set on your camera. Remember the shutter speed (and aperture) affect the ambient exposure while the aperture only affects the flash exposure.

    Thanks for the info guys!

    -- Lisa P.
    -- Lisa P.

    http://www.pictureyourlifephotography.com
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