Nikon in camera Long Exp NR setting
anonymouscuban
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I turned this feature on when I first got my D300 and left it on for quite some time. I recently starting shooting night shots so I actually started using the feature. I guess it runs an NR program in camera after you take an exp of longer than 8 sec or so. It adds quite a few seconds between shots so I turned it off but now I am not sure if I should turn it back on.
Do any of you guys use this setting?
Do any of you guys use this setting?
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Not allowed to enter Henry's alone anymore...
Kyle Derkachenko Photography
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Long exposures at night quite often equals cold weather too, so battery life is diminished yes?
Could you not, turn off NR and when you get back to your comfy warm house, take a shot with the lens cap on of equal time to your outdoors exposure and setup a photoshop action to remove any spots from the 'black photo' from the original. It is just a means to save card space and battery life.
Its just an idea I've been playing with as I play around alot when I go camping with night exposures and end up using all my batteries up pretty quickly.
Any thoughts?
From what I've noticed, a long exposure shot with the long exposure nr turned on does not use any more card space than the original image. As for using up batteries, I can get about 1200-1600 shots out of the batteries in my D50 so I'm not too worried about that.
Not allowed to enter Henry's alone anymore...
Kyle Derkachenko Photography
Ditto... when I did use it, I didn't notice any difference in file size. And battery life has not been an issue with my D300 for me either.
Honestly, I think the NR feature does work... here is a shot I took with a 25 sec exposure using the NR feature. No noise reduction in PP.
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i think nr in post makes the image soft....
why in-camera does not affect softness in-camera i do not know....
(only speaking for Canon 5D)
Probably should have mentioned that I was referring more to doing long night captures of star trails, where the shutter is left open for an hour or two. Or doing multiple 2 minute exposures to stack later.
I don't even think Nikon's can do 1 or 2 hour exposures. I believe that the bulb mode tops out at 30 minutes.
Not allowed to enter Henry's alone anymore...
Kyle Derkachenko Photography
Amazing shot!
Not allowed to enter Henry's alone anymore...
Kyle Derkachenko Photography
This one did not have long exp NR 13 minute exposure
This one did. 11 second exp
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If you are doing star trail/milky way type long exposures that you will be stacking pp, you should read Jim Solomon's Astrophotography Cookbook. It has a lot of valuable info on NR. Especially with Milky Way shots, it is an involved process of taking dark frame, bais/offsets frames, flat light and light frame etc all to reduce noise in the stacking process. This actually works in all ISO settings but is most important at 1600 and above.
I use a Nikon D40, but if I remember correctly, all Nikon cameras at ISO's below 3200 will automatically do an "in camera" NR after the shutter closes (that's why longer exposures will take longer to be written to the card). With star trail/milky way shots that will be stacked, this isn't good because it will actually decrease the sharpness and detail in the NEF file. The "fix" around this is right after the shutter closes after the shot, turn the camera off. All Nikon cameras have a built-in "safety" feature that will write the shot to the card in case the battery dies after the shutter closes. By turning the camera off right after the shutter closes, the auto NR is not written to the shot and all of the noise/sharpness/deatil is kept as shot. This is important for later stacking.
The suggestion made that you could take a black frame after in a warmer setting won't work because the noise of a shot is dependent on the outside temperature at the time the shot is taken. This is because the CMOS sensor in camera will produce different noise at different outside temperatures. This is where taking dark flat shots at the same temperature, exp time, and ISO is important.
I hope this has made since and is what you were talking about. The cookbook probably explains it way better than I can. Here is my first attempt at stacking. The main image is Mt Rainier just before sunset. The sky is a series of 13 30 second, 1600 ISO shots stacked with the free program DeepSkyStacker. To reduce the noise of long exp high ISO shots, the 13 images were stacked along with 19 dark shots, 19 bias/offset shots, 19 dark flat shots, and 19 light flat shots (the cookbook explains all of this and DeepSkyStacker stacks all automatically). Taking all of the shots is a little involved, but pp is fairly automated and easy.
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I live in Texas where it's hot at night most of the year, and I experience this behavior with my D300. So there goes your theory!
Nikon 80 - 200 2.8 | Nikon 60mm 2.8 | Nikon 85mm 1.8 | Tokina 11-16 2.8 | Nikon 24-70 2.8 | Nikon 70 - 180 4.5-5.6/macro (wish you had one, don't you! )
I used a Nikon 70-300 VR that I borrowed from a friend. I believe I shot that at about 90mm at f16.
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As they say, one picture ....
Pretty convincing argument for using the in-camera NR for long exposures. (And thanks for sharing this beautiful shot.)
Jerry