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The Rosetta Stone

ktskts Registered Users Posts: 145 Major grins
edited January 28, 2009 in Landscapes
Surrounded by low rent apartments, garages, mechanic's shops, bearing stores, coffee shops, and large trash piles sits an old mansion in the heart of Cairo slowly decaying while being ignored by most of the people who walk past it every day.

The story told on the streets about this place is that this mansion was the home of Jean-Francois Champollion, the man who discovered the Rosetta Stone. They say that this mansion is where he spent months translating the hieroglyphic and demotic from the greek below it and helping unlock the secrets of ancient Egyptian writing.

The reality is that this mansion was built 60 years after Champollion's death for Prince Said Halim, one of the grandsons of Muhammad Ali, the founder of modern Egypt. Halim was obsessed with Rome which is ironic since it was in Rome where he was assassinated in 1921. He had his architects design this place to look like it belonged in Rome and even had all of the building materials imported from Italy.

The mansion was taken by the British in WWI and kept by them as punishment to Halim who sided with the Ottomans during the war. It was eventually turned into the Al-Nassiriyah Secondary School For Boys where many future leaders of the Egyptian government would receive their education. Over the years the building was poorly maintained as can be seen and was later moved to a new location and for decades now the school has sat abandoned. A few years ago the building was finally cleaned out of all of the old school supplies and beds and was added to the country's roster of historic places. Since then it has sat empty and guarded waiting for someone to come and reuse the building. The size of the rooms were normal for the late 1800s for a house, but as a school these rooms must have been packed to the brim with students and their desks. The lack of space to capture the rooms even with a 17mm lens was amazing, I can only imagine what this place would have been like filled with students. Many of the chalkboards weren't even chalkboards, they were chalkboard paint painted onto the wall with crude framing put up around them. I wish I could have seen what they used for desks here.

Although empty the architecture of this place is amazing and the environment it is in has helped minimize the deterioration of the place. When I heard about the place I was interested and when my friend who lives near by sent me a few photos he took of the place I knew I had to see it. I needed to pack light for my trip so I brought a small travel tripod that unfortunately was not strong enough for my D300 + 17-55, but it mostly worked with the D300 and the lighter 18-200. The travel tripod only went as high as 43" and the ball head on it didn't like to stay locked. The 18-200 likes to go crazy with the barrel distortion at the wide end. The lighting in this place made some shots very difficult to take and trying to add a flash for filling in otherwise dark places in my photos didn't totally come out. These aren't my best shots, but still overall this is an extremely cool place that I enjoyed getting to shoot and I'm glad I got to see it since most likely I won't ever be back there. Oh how I wish I had brought my regular tripod, but I was here now with this wimpy underpowered tripod and I was just going to have to make do.

I almost didn't get to see this place, for 2 days in a row I kept stopping by the main gate but the guard wasn't there. My friend had bribed him before and he got in but he was only allowed into a few places before the guy told him to leave. My trip was about to end and I still had not been inside this place. Climbing over the walls surrounding this place weren't an option since the streets are packed and busy with people hanging out at coffee shops set out into the street and mechanics taking apart cars in the middle of the streets as well. With a ton of cops in the area due to political protests the risk just wasn't worth it. There were however a few chained gates that had enough slack in them that sliding between the gate was a possibility (THINK THIN!) If only these streets weren't packed with people. One of the streets is more residential then the rest and I caught a break, it was nearly deserted. I quickly squeezed past the gate and I was in. I set up and started taking photos, during that time the guard finally showed up, unlocked the main gate, and took a seat in the middle of the courtyard in front of this place. Crap. I kept on going upstairs taking my photos and went about my business until I heard the guard walking up the steps. Crap. He quickly went back downstairs and I continued on my way taking photos. When I was finished I was close by the main gate which was still open and there was no sign of the guard. I bolted for the gate but as I got close to it he came out of a small building next to the gate and began to shout at me. I tossed him a few Egyptian pounds and he shut up and let me leave.

Just another day in Egypt...

Welcome
open.jpg

First take
more-steps.jpg

From an empty apartment across the street
mansion.jpg

Columns
columns.jpg

Ghetto chalkboard
chalk-door.jpg

I loved this room
room.jpg

The Joker
joker2.jpg

Flag day
door-flag.jpg

Tags
wall-tags.jpg

Outside
ext1.jpg

More outside awesomeness
ext2.jpg

Back of the house
ext-bw.jpg

Steps and a door
steps-door.jpg

Yes, it's a lonely chair
chair.jpg

Foyer
foyer.jpg

Sketchy ladder
ladder.jpg

Getting a head of myself
gargoyle.jpg

Goofy
goofy.jpg

Sweet architecture
outside2.jpg

More sweetness
outside.jpg

Another classroom
room2.jpg

Going down?
steps1.jpg

Even under the steps they were well decorated
steps4.jpg

Ornate doesn't even begin to describe
steps5.jpg

X marks the steps
x-steps.jpg

steps-bw.jpg

Comments

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    DonRicklinDonRicklin Registered Users Posts: 5,551 Major grins
    edited January 27, 2009
    I love it all. Especially the flying staircases and the Tag work cartoon images! thumb.gif

    Don
    Don Ricklin - Gear: Canon EOS 5D Mark III, was Pentax K7
    'I was older then, I'm younger than that now' ....
    My Blog | Q+ | Moderator, Lightroom Forums | My Amateur Smugmug Stuff | My Blurb book Rust and Whimsy. More Rust , FaceBook
    .
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    Jack'll doJack'll do Registered Users Posts: 2,977 Major grins
    edited January 27, 2009
    These are all amazing. Such fine architectural detail! I love that stairway. Thanks for sharing this wonderful find.

    Jack
    (My real name is John but Jack'll do)
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    Candid ArtsCandid Arts Registered Users Posts: 1,685 Major grins
    edited January 27, 2009
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    Tee WhyTee Why Registered Users Posts: 2,390 Major grins
    edited January 27, 2009
    Wow, what a fascinating place. Thanks for sharing the shots.
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    vintagemxrvintagemxr Registered Users Posts: 224 Major grins
    edited January 27, 2009
    All wonderful images and lighting, especially since you were having to hurry a bit! Amazing and sad that such a once grand building sits desolate now.

    Doug
    "A photograph is usually looked at – seldom looked into." - Ansel Adams
    My B&W Photos
    Motorcycles in B&W
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    angevin1angevin1 Registered Users Posts: 3,403 Major grins
    edited January 27, 2009
    Just Nuts!! thanks for the interesting storyline too!!

    Very sweet images~

    cheers, tom
    tom wise
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    Zeus1Zeus1 Registered Users Posts: 70 Big grins
    edited January 28, 2009
    Lovely story, nice pics.

    To continue this tale a bit....

    Champollion was born and grew up in the town of Figeac, in the Lot province of France.
    There is quite a lovely museum of Egyptology in Figeac, housed in one of the old typical buildings of the region, in the town center.
    The inner court displays a huge copy of he original Rosetta stone.

    p438526375.png
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    jthomasjthomas Registered Users Posts: 454 Major grins
    edited January 28, 2009
    Very nice and interesting series.

    My daughter lived in Cairo for about 1.5 years and thinks this is near where she lived. Is it near the corner of Shari`a Taha Hussein and Shari`a Marrashly in Zamalek ?

    Thanks.
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    TangoTango Registered Users Posts: 4,592 Major grins
    edited January 28, 2009
    its very hard for me to understand how this place fell into ruin....
    Aaron Nelson
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    DonRicklinDonRicklin Registered Users Posts: 5,551 Major grins
    edited January 28, 2009
    its very hard for me to understand how this place fell into ruin....
    Location, Location, Location!

    Don
    Don Ricklin - Gear: Canon EOS 5D Mark III, was Pentax K7
    'I was older then, I'm younger than that now' ....
    My Blog | Q+ | Moderator, Lightroom Forums | My Amateur Smugmug Stuff | My Blurb book Rust and Whimsy. More Rust , FaceBook
    .
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    ktskts Registered Users Posts: 145 Major grins
    edited January 28, 2009
    Thanks for the comments everyone! :)
    jthomas wrote:
    Very nice and interesting series.

    My daughter lived in Cairo for about 1.5 years and thinks this is near where she lived. Is it near the corner of Shari`a Taha Hussein and Shari`a Marrashly in Zamalek ?

    Thanks.

    I honestly don't know since my knowledge of parts of Cairo is pretty limited. I think Zamalek is on the other side of the river.

    This place is very close to Midan Talaat Harb which was our landmark for when we were getting around since the friend we stayed with was right there. Ask her if she knows where the Townhouse Gallery is (a lot of expats seem to), it was pretty much right nextdoor.
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    bobcoolbobcool Registered Users Posts: 271 Major grins
    edited January 28, 2009
    This_is_an_amazing_place

    I can't believe any local photographers don't bribe/rent this place for some awesome on-location shooting.

    You know, this whole mansion reminds me of a game I've been playing lately - Gears of War. Every picture you posted reminds me of this - same type of architecture and mood, too!
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