Effective results with Sensor Brush

robscomputerrobscomputer Registered Users Posts: 326 Major grins
edited May 28, 2005 in Cameras
I tested out the Sensor Brush today on my 10D. It wasn't too dirty but enough to slightly notice during bright sunny day shots.

Below is the before picture, please note I tweaked the balance to show the dust.

22709552-L.jpg

Now, this is after 5 swipes with the Sensor Brush, blowing compressed air each time.

22709548-L.jpg

The back ground wasn't the best but I did notice an improvement. Looks pretty decent and I can only find one speck of dust that the brush didn't pick up.

Overall I'm impressed and will test out the generic "sensor brush" next time.

Rob
Enjoying photography since 1980.

Comments

  • SkippySkippy Registered Users Posts: 12,075 Major grins
    edited May 22, 2005
    I have the Sensor Brush Too
    I tested out the Sensor Brush today on my 10D. It wasn't too dirty but enough to slightly notice during bright sunny day shots.

    Below is the before picture, please note I tweaked the balance to show the dust.
    Now, this is after 5 swipes with the Sensor Brush, blowing compressed air each time.
    The back ground wasn't the best but I did notice an improvement. Looks pretty decent and I can only find one speck of dust that the brush didn't pick up.

    Overall I'm impressed and will test out the generic "sensor brush" next time.

    Rob
    Hi Rob, I too brought the Sensor Brush kit, being new to digital cameras myself, and not knowing anyone even remotely close who has chosen to do the Copper Hill Method, I figured it might be a better option when your travelling, but I still think at somestage the Copperhill Method will be needed as well.............to remove dust the Sensor Brush is extremely easy to use and this is what I like best about it clap.gifclap.gif Skippy (Australia)
    .
    Skippy (Australia) - Moderator of "HOLY MACRO" and "OTHER COOL SHOTS"

    ALBUM http://ozzieskip.smugmug.com/

    :skippy Everyone has the right to be stupid, but some people just abuse the privilege :dgrin
  • OlgaJOlgaJ Registered Users Posts: 146 Major grins
    edited May 22, 2005
    I guess I'm one of very few who do not like the sensor brush. I have better results with the Giotto blower than the sensor brush. It's also easier to carry on trips than to have to either carry or locate an air can with me.

    I have no problem using the Copperhill method if I have to. Lately though I haven't had the need for it.

    Olga
  • wxwaxwxwax Registered Users Posts: 15,471 Major grins
    edited May 22, 2005
    I'm surprised to hear you say that, Olga. I have the same blower, stored in a baggie to keep it relatively dust free. I tried it repeatedly on the sensor. I even resorted to putting the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner close to the opening in the body, in hopes of drawing-out the disturbed dust.

    None of that worked. The best I could do was rearrange the dust. I often seemed to make it worse.

    By contrast, a few swipes with the sensor brush cleaned things right up. I think the sensor brush is crazy expensive. And I placed a second order to boot, to get a larger brush that better suits the size of my sensor (if you know what I mean.) Plus I find those 15-second bursts of compressed air really go through a can fast.

    However, I did my sensor yesterday. From the time I grabbed my tripod and camera, to the time I packed away the brush, took all of 5 minutes. So I'm pretty pleased, despite the horrendous expense. I wish the blower had worked, but I simply couldn't make it do so for me. ne_nau.gif
    Sid.
    Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
    http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
  • mereimagemereimage Registered Users Posts: 448 Major grins
    edited May 22, 2005
    Glad to see you like the 10D
    That chip had never been cleaned-will rarely need it, remember to always keep the opening facing down when changing lenses. Before the sensor brish was available I was too skittish about cleaning it -I just used air from a bulb blower and cloned out any thing left. Now lets see some pictures////Mereimage
  • OlgaJOlgaJ Registered Users Posts: 146 Major grins
    edited May 22, 2005
    wxwax wrote:
    I'm surprised to hear you say that, Olga.
    Like I said, Sid, I know I'm in the minority. Perhaps I don't put adequate pressure on the brush. I really do not know.

    I used to have a different blower which wasn't worth a darn. I never could understand folks who kept saying that a blower worked for them. So I always used the eclipse method. Cannot remember what made me try the other blower but I'm happy I did.

    Olga
  • Steve CaviglianoSteve Cavigliano Super Moderators Posts: 3,599 moderator
    edited May 22, 2005
    On our trip to Yosemite, Andy showed Gus and I how to clean our sensors. It was a combination of the Giotto blower and I believe the Copperhill method (a spatula with a wipe wrapped around it). It worked OK. But, we did it blind. In that we didn't do a before shot to see where the specks were to begin with ne_nau.gif Andy did warn us, that we might wind up worse off than we started :uhoh

    Well, I've got a "glob" at the 2 o'clock position rolleyes1.gif I don't want to wait for the Copperhill stuff, so I think I'm going to try the Scotch Magic Tape method. Anyone heard/read about this? It seems to be big in some of the Nikon forums. Basically, you use 19x33mm #810 Scotch Magic Tape. You cut a 6 inch long strip, the width is perfect for the sensor, and holding both ends dip the center part down until it contacts the sensor. Then using a flat or rounded piece of plastic/wood press the tape down until it covers the entire sensor. Then remove and repeat if necessary. No residue and it seems to pick up debris better than sweepers. It also removes dirt from the area, rather than just blowing/sweeping it around to other areas near the sensor.

    Anyone heard any negative feedback about this method?


    Thanks,
    Steve
    SmugMug Support Hero
  • wxwaxwxwax Registered Users Posts: 15,471 Major grins
    edited May 22, 2005
    I read that thread with great interest. No-one said they got burned, but not a lot of people tried it, either.

    Before I tried it on my sensor, I'd try it on glasses, my computer monitor, crystal, a clean mirror -- something that would let me see if it did leave a tiny deposit. Because if it does, getting the deposit off will be very delicate and difficult.

    I'm not brave enough to try that method.
    Sid.
    Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam
    http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au
  • robscomputerrobscomputer Registered Users Posts: 326 Major grins
    edited May 23, 2005
    I have also tried using the blower idea but for me this did nothing to remove the dust. While I haven't tired the Copper Hill method my the actual sensor I did tried it out cleaning a filter. From what I experienced the Eclipse solution was streaking even after I letting the filter air dry. I also tested out Visible Dust's sensor cleaning solution and found that their solution does not leave any streaks like Eclipse's soltion does.

    Rob
    Enjoying photography since 1980.
  • ShebaJoShebaJo Registered Users Posts: 179 Major grins
    edited May 24, 2005
    I tested out the Sensor Brush today on my 10D. It wasn't too dirty but enough to slightly notice during bright sunny day shots.

    Below is the before picture, please note I tweaked the balance to show the dust.The back ground wasn't the best but I did notice an improvement. Looks pretty decent and I can only find one speck of dust that the brush didn't pick up.

    Overall I'm impressed and will test out the generic "sensor brush" next time.

    Rob
    I just ordered the CopperHill Ultimate Kit...has the "Sensor Swipe" brush kit included. His version of the Sensor Brush.

    BTW... I tried the "brush" method, using an old paint brush that is pretty much the same as the other brushes... It cleaned really well, charged with canned air. So well, I decided not to pay for the sensor brush. But, when I saw the new Copperhill kit... that extra $10 sounded very good.
    thumb.gif
  • SteveFSteveF Registered Users Posts: 466 Major grins
    edited May 27, 2005
    Sensor cleaning
    Hello,

    This topic often seems to generate such varied opinions.

    My solution, which I have had great (fantastic, wonderful) results with is a combo of the gitto rocket blower and the visible dust SBF brush.

    The SBF brush is their "single filament" brush. It is fan shaped, as wide as the sensor, but only a couple of bristles "thick".

    The main difference with this and the thicker ones is that you can use a rocket blower to charge it. So, if I'm out taking pictures or on a trip I can carry everything I need to clean the sensor - no need for compressed air. I've done it enough times that it has become about as big a deal as changing a lens or battery.

    One other thing which I used at home before I got the above setup was a foot pump - one of those plastic accordion type ones you use to blow up a raft or the like. About $10 at Target. I put a couple pec-pads as a filter over the air intake valve and then had a clean air sensor blower. This also took care of just about all dust particles.

    If you want to read more there is

    Cleaning Digital camera Site
  • wholenewlightwholenewlight Registered Users Posts: 1,529 Major grins
    edited May 27, 2005
    the Scotch Magic Tape method. Anyone heard/read about this? It seems to be big in some of the Nikon forums.
    Let us know how your cleaning goes.

    I noticed that the http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com/ website isn't a fan of the tape method. I've seen posts on the nikon forums from proponants of the method but I'm nervous that I'd make my dust problem worse with a big glob of adhesive. ne_nau.gif
    john w

    I knew, of course, that trees and plants had roots, stems, bark, branches and foliage that reached up toward the light. But I was coming to realize that the real magician was light itself.
    Edward Steichen


  • philspacephilspace Registered Users Posts: 59 Big grins
    edited May 27, 2005
    I'm finally getting the hang of it as well. After I bought the Copperhill cleaning kit and and tried to clean up an artist brush I broke down and bought the sensor brush.

    I still had some artifacts from condensation from outdoor subzero shooting - never just take your camera outside of the car warm and change lenses in the cold :bluduh

    In any event, this was the first shot you can see the chunks of dust courtesy of the Blue Ridge and Smokey Mountains.

    23179350-L.jpg

    This is after a quick sensor brush swipe - the more opaque spots are what is left over from my winter mess.

    23179352-L.jpg

    I used the Copperhill swab a couple times and then the sensor brush to bayonett the wounded and it came out pretty good. The first time I did this it was frustrating and we won't say how many times I did it. This time from start to finish - 8 passes. I also found that using an Ott light with a built in magnifying loop really helps to actually see things on the sensor before and after. This saves a lot of time, no more trial an error with the sensor brush or swab.

    23179353-L.jpg
  • gusgus Registered Users Posts: 16,209 Major grins
    edited May 27, 2005
    so I think I'm going to try the Scotch Magic Tape method. Anyone heard/read about this?

    Thanks,
    Steve
    Like getting white cat hair off a black shirt eek7.gif Mate your a braver man than me to try this.

    Keep us posted

    Gus
  • robscomputerrobscomputer Registered Users Posts: 326 Major grins
    edited May 27, 2005
    Humungus wrote:
    Like getting white cat hair off a black shirt eek7.gif Mate your a braver man than me to try this.

    Keep us posted

    Gus
    I'm still a bit confused about the logic of using tape to remove dust. In order to take off every bit of dust you would need to press down the tape in all areas, including the edges. This still leaves a small area where your extended tape is held for removing. Even if you do make a good solid contact there is still bound to be dust remaining, not to mention spots from water or other liquid particles.

    Just as an example, it would be trying to clean your monitor with scotch tape instead of using a cleaner and some towels. I'm sure most of the dust would be gone but some would be left over. Not to mention the risk of having glue residue.

    I have never applied this method myself but just thinking about seems dengerous to the sensor. I wouldn't dare clean my SLR mirror with anything but a fine brush for reasons of scratching the surface, let alone using tape.

    Rob
    Enjoying photography since 1980.
  • gusgus Registered Users Posts: 16,209 Major grins
    edited May 27, 2005
    I'm still a bit confused about the logic of using tape to remove dust. In order to take off every bit of dust you would need to press down the tape in all areas, including the edges. This still leaves a small area where your extended tape is held for removing. Even if you do make a good solid contact there is still bound to be dust remaining, not to mention spots from water or other liquid particles.

    Just as an example, it would be trying to clean your monitor with scotch tape instead of using a cleaner and some towels. I'm sure most of the dust would be gone but some would be left over. Not to mention the risk of having glue residue.

    I have never applied this method myself but just thinking about seems dengerous to the sensor. I wouldn't dare clean my SLR mirror with anything but a fine brush for reasons of scratching the surface, let alone using tape.

    Rob
    I could see myself trying it & the sensor coming off with the tape :uhoh

    Wouldnt it leave a residue to attract more dust but this time stick the dust on ?
  • Steve CaviglianoSteve Cavigliano Super Moderators Posts: 3,599 moderator
    edited May 28, 2005
    Laughing.gif Guys, you are thinking of that old cellophane tape. This stuff uses adhesive that is more like what's used on Post Its. You ever stick a Post It to your hand or arm? There's not supposed to be any adhesive residue unless the tape is used on a window and is sun baked, or something similar. I still haven't gotten to the store to get some. But, I really don't see it as all that risky ne_nau.gif

    It does have to be flattened over the entire sensor, using something flat and something that's not sharp or too hard. Like the end of a plastic fork or knife.

    I'll keep you all posted thumb.gif

    Steve
    SmugMug Support Hero
  • ian408ian408 Administrators Posts: 21,948 moderator
    edited May 28, 2005
    Anyone heard any negative feedback about this method?


    Thanks,
    Steve
    Don't do it. The spooge (technical term) from the tape will be much harder to
    get off the sensor than the dust bunny. Before you say it, I know they mean
    turn the tape to it's non-sticky side.

    In some sense, tape, plastic ball point pen caps and the sensor brush work
    the same way. They rely on static electricty to remove dust. The sensor
    brush uses compressed air to charge the bristols (and clean them).

    If you could charge the tape and hold it near the sensor without touching
    anything, that might work but you're better off with a rocket blower or
    nothing rather than the tape.

    Ian
    Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
  • ian408ian408 Administrators Posts: 21,948 moderator
    edited May 28, 2005
    philspace wrote:
    23179350-S.jpg
    Hey Phil,

    My sources in the Air Force tell me that's not dust but a flight of Alien
    beings making its way across the US.

    Say hello to the Spacewife.

    Ian
    Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
  • Steve CaviglianoSteve Cavigliano Super Moderators Posts: 3,599 moderator
    edited May 28, 2005
    Uh.......Nevermind
    ian408 wrote:
    Don't do it. The spooge (technical term) from the tape will be much harder to
    get off the sensor than the dust bunny. Before you say it, I know they mean
    turn the tape to it's non-sticky side.

    In some sense, tape, plastic ball point pen caps and the sensor brush work
    the same way. They rely on static electricty to remove dust. The sensor
    brush uses compressed air to charge the bristols (and clean them).

    If you could charge the tape and hold it near the sensor without touching
    anything, that might work but you're better off with a rocket blower or
    nothing rather than the tape.

    Ian
    As Roseanna Roseannadanna used to say......lol

    OK, Ian you convinced me. Anyone, who can so easily toss around technical terms like "spooge" and "dust bunny" has my full attention rolleyes1.gif

    Thank you very much for your offer of help thumb.gif


    See ya in a few,
    Steve
    SmugMug Support Hero
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