Caribou Jaw...

Candid Arts

Ok, so I recently got a 420 EX (slave) to pair with my 580 EX II (Master). I've been trying to learn some flash techniques as I don't know much about it. I'm basically looking to get some C&C on the lighting of the photos. Thanks in advance for the help

Here is my lighting set up:


Here is On-Camera Flash ONLY (580 EX II no diffuser):


Here is Off-Camera Flash ONLY (420 EX No diffuser):


Here is Both Flashes (420 EX Diffused, Flash exp. comp -2/3, 1st curtain, 1:1):


None of these have been edited aside from RAW converted to JPEG.

I think the last one is my favorite as far as shadows and detail goes, I would dial back the exposure a little in PP though as it's a bit bright for me. Possibly something like this:


So what do you guy's think? What could I have done differently? What was good, bad? What worked, didn't?

Swartzy

I prefer the exposure of #2 the best....less distracting specular highlights and much more even lighting. By using your 580 shooting through a diffuser (think large like a shoot through....or bouncing the light) would have given you softer shadows, less specular hot spots and illuminated it completely. This is where softboxes up close and personal can be of great aid. Sometimes you need the light to "fill" the subject evenly without the lightsource being evident (as far as directional).

A good experiment for sure as there are no magic formulas...one has to try different set ups to see what works and what doesn't. I've done product shoots where my light is bouncing off the ceiling and flagged to use the "edge" of the light.

Wachel

I like the off camera flash only...that one is nice and the shadows add some drama to it.

Candid Arts

Swartzy wrote:

I prefer the exposure of #2 the best....less distracting specular highlights and much more even lighting. By using your 580 shooting through a diffuser (think large like a shoot through....or bouncing the light) would have given you softer shadows, less specular hot spots and illuminated it completely. This is where softboxes up close and personal can be of great aid. Sometimes you need the light to "fill" the subject evenly without the lightsource being evident (as far as directional).

A good experiment for sure as there are no magic formulas...one has to try different set ups to see what works and what doesn't. I've done product shoots where my light is bouncing off the ceiling and flagged to use the "edge" of the light.

I almost tended to agree with #2, but the shadow on the inner side of the far jaw is what lost it for me. Hence the fill with the 580 mounted on camera. I'll try using the diffuser on the 580 next time and see how that works. Although it created a weird color where I liked the color w/o the diffuser best. I should be ordering a LumiQuest softbox soon for that, so hopefully that'll help better than the diffuser I have now.

So you prefer the #2 exposure even more so than the edited #3 one (#4 inline)?

Swartzy

Try your 420 up a bit higher....put it on a box or something..then use your mounted 580 (I'm assuming you are infared firing both flashes), point your head of the 580 upwards, and hold a piece of reflective fabric above it while you click your cable release. Try different positions...this way the light will bounce from above (and you may have to change ratios between flashes of course) and you'll have a direct light metered in ETTL for proper flash power and distance to subject. I think you'll find the bounced light will fill in the shadows without the specular highlights on your mirror.

Candid Arts

Swartzy wrote:

Try your 420 up a bit higher....put it on a box or something..then use your mounted 580 (I'm assuming you are infared firing both flashes), point your head of the 580 upwards, and hold a piece of reflective fabric above it while you click your cable release. Try different positions...this way the light will bounce from above (and you may have to change ratios between flashes of course) and you'll have a direct light metered in ETTL for proper flash power and distance to subject. I think you'll find the bounced light will fill in the shadows without the specular highlights on your mirror.

I did try some hand held a bit higher than shown in the picture, but wasn't REALLY happy with the results. I am using IR firing both flashes. I have a 12" reflector, I'm guessing that would be suitable?

Don't understand the "you'll have direct light metered in ETTL for proper flash power and distance to subject."

The mirror is in fact a piece of stainless steel inset in a table. Don't think that makes any amount of difference, but might be the cause of the highlights due to the inherent texture in the SS?

Swartzy

My mistake.....I meant stainless steel after hitting the post button.... OK....how about as in #2, you used the 420, no diffuser.......was it from the table position as in the photo above? If so, then try the same metering and exposure comp and simple raise your flash up high enough to fill in the back part of the jawbone. Once you have that dialed in, then any other remaining light lacking can be bounced into a reflector...point it the other direction and bounce it around.

Candid Arts

Swartzy wrote:

My mistake.....I meant stainless steel after hitting the post button.... OK....how about as in #2, you used the 420, no diffuser.......was it from the table position as in the photo above? If so, then try the same metering and exposure comp and simple raise your flash up high enough to fill in the back part of the jawbone. Once you have that dialed in, then any other remaining light lacking can be bounced into a reflector...point it the other direction and bounce it around.

Got it. I'll give that a go next time I try that (next weekend probably). Thank you for your help.

Ok, aside from lighting... How's the photo? Composition, detail, etc...etc...etc...

Swartzy

Just an idea on comp. Move in a bit tighter as you don't "need" the entire reflection to mirror the subject. Use the reflection as an image enhancer drawing attention to the jawbone itself (hence, a partial reflection will suffice). This will afford you to create a more interesting composition and try different angles to your fancy.

Candid Arts

Swartzy wrote:

Just an idea on comp. Move in a bit tighter as you don't "need" the entire reflection to mirror the subject. Use the reflection as an image enhancer drawing attention to the jawbone itself (hence, a partial reflection will suffice). This will afford you to create a more interesting composition and try different angles to your fancy.

Got it. Another thing to try next weekend for a re-shoot. Thank you.