New and first lens

KiloKilo Registered Users Posts: 210 Major grins
edited March 18, 2009 in Cameras
I bought the 28-135mm IS this afternoon. I have no idea what it cost when it first hit the market, but I got it for $285. Very nice lens. The previous owner who had the store sell it for him on consignment, (where I bought it from) took several pictures with it on his 40D.

His picture files were massive, and when I viewed them on the store's computer, they were distorted when they were small, but when enlarged, they were so sharp, that I went ahead and got the lens. But when I took pictures after I got home, none of the ones I took were anywhere near as sharp as his... large or small.

When I viewed mine small, they were a little sharp, not very sharp though; and when I enlarged them, they got more distorted. His pictures were begging to be enlarged for best quality `cos the store owner said the lens owner had massive picture files.

So I can't say his pictures were better `cos he had a 40D, (one model above mine) it must have been how he set the functions and settings on his camera. But the thing I can't figure out is how did the file size of his pictures get so massive?

I must be doing something or many things wrong,`cos my new pictures from my new 30D are pitiful.:rolleyes
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Comments

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,133 moderator
    edited March 17, 2009
    A lot of people are disappointed by the initial results from their dSLR, thinking that an advanced camera like the Canon 30D can somehow create instantly great results because they know that many great results come from dSLRs.

    The truth is that it takes some time and perseverance to coax the best results from a camera like the Canon 30D. It's is not quick and painless but rather dependant on your willingness to learn and grow as a complete photographer, and that means post-procesing.

    Some of my best images take hours and hours to complete and some are completed months or even years later as I learn new techniques and capabilities that might apply.

    Take this recent example I posted (not one of my best but I like it anyway):

    488158135_nKqPt-M.jpg

    It started life looking more like:

    493700519_zM8PN-M.jpg

    I purposely underexposed the image to protect the highlights and I intended to use layers and masks to process the dress and hands differently but I wound up using several different techniques and 5 pieces of software to produce the final image. It took a lot longer than I anticipated but I rather like the results. (I do wish I had repositioned the little finger but we were in a hurry to get the couple headed out for their train.)

    Take some time to learn and then never stop learning.

    As far as that particular lens, it really likes a lot of light and the middle apertures for best results, and then further post-processing to make the images shine. Shoot in RAW and verify your focus is working properly. If the original owner got good results more than likely so will you.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • KiloKilo Registered Users Posts: 210 Major grins
    edited March 17, 2009
    Thanks, Ziggy!

    I was thinking maybe he set his camera on RAW to get those large picture files, then you mentioned for me to set it on RAW. I use to have a RAW image editor, but I don't have it anymore.


    It was free and worked really well. It was on a disc or thumb drive. I either misplaced it or deleted it `cos I hardly ever set my camera on RAW. It's interface looked very similar to this, if not exactly... http://www.webmonkey.com/blog/New_Lightroom_2DOT0_Refines_the_RAW_Image_Editor

    If anyone knows what kind'a software I use to have that looked and could do what Adobe's Lightroom looks like and does, let me know,`cos it really worked quite well... whatever it was called.

    Thanks! :-)
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  • KiloKilo Registered Users Posts: 210 Major grins
    edited March 17, 2009
    Okay, I found it on a disc that I put away awhile back. It's called RAW Shooter Essentials made by Pixmantec, but I don't know if it'll work with Vista. I haven't used it since MCE (Media Center Edition) or maybe since XP.
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  • Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited March 18, 2009
    If your shots withthe same lens were ot nearly as good as his then the previous owner probably:

    1- shot off a tripod for greatest stabilization
    2- Processed the raw files and then ran them thru a sharpener like unsharp mask in Photoshop......

    Most ooc shots are not the sharpest photos in the world, most have to be processed to be at their best.





    gotta get back to ripping apart cmorganphotographys' last DSS submission......
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,133 moderator
    edited March 18, 2009
    Raw Shooter Essentials (RSE) was free software to promote their full software, Raw Shooter. Unfortunately they were bought out and the product is no longer available and no longer updated. I am not sure if it will load Canon 30D RAW files or not.

    If you got all of the software originally included with the 30D you should have a disk with Canon's DPP software (Digital Photo Professional). DPP is a pretty good RAW processor. You will also need an image editor.

    Other free software (Windows) RAW processors include:

    RAW Therapee
    RAWDrop

    Other free image editors include:

    GIMP
    Picasa
    IrfanView

    A lot of people do use Adobe products including Elements to process RAW files. Of course Adobe ACR and PhotoShop CS4 are probably the premier software available, with other products somewhere inbetween.

    Be sure to post and search in the "Finishing School" forum for lots more tips on the software, and check the "Technique" forum for ways to improve what you do and how you work.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • Tee WhyTee Why Registered Users Posts: 2,390 Major grins
    edited March 18, 2009
    Can you post the image with the exposure settings? My guess without any other details would be that you took the shot inside in low light resulting in a very low shutter speed which resulted in camera shake movement.

    As for RAW developer program, your Canon should have come with DPP which is a great program in my view. Better than Adobe's ACR in terms of color rendition, tonality, resolution, and noise reduction.
  • Scott_QuierScott_Quier Registered Users Posts: 6,524 Major grins
    edited March 18, 2009
    Kilo wrote:
    I must be doing something or many things wrong,`cos my new pictures from my new 30D are pitiful.rolleyes1.gif
    Fear not - I have a friend I taught to shoot with a dSLR. When she started, she literally didn't know the difference between shutter speed and aperture (D'oh, I think most of us start out in photography that way). For the first three weeks of very intensive practicing, she cussing me out and regretting getting the dSLR, saying she was going to go back to shooting with her P&S because she got better pictures with it with a lot less effort. Sometime during that third week, it all clicked and life has been good ever since.

    So, hang in there - it'll gel for you as well. deal.gif
  • KiloKilo Registered Users Posts: 210 Major grins
    edited March 18, 2009
    Tee Why wrote:
    Can you post the image with the exposure settings? My guess without any other details would be that you took the shot inside in low light resulting in a very low shutter speed which resulted in camera shake movement.

    As for RAW developer program, your Canon should have come with DPP which is a great program in my view. Better than Adobe's ACR in terms of color rendition, tonality, resolution, and noise reduction.
    I would, but they were deleted since they were pitiful. But none of them were set on P, Av or anything like that, nor was the camera set to RAW. I couldn't get it to set on RAW anyway. Only while the camera was in all the auto modes would it go into RAW. Unlike my Nikon D50, I could easily set it on RAW on all the dial settings.

    Yeah, I'll use Canon's DPP as soon as I take some more pictures in RAW, perhaps in P mode, since M and another setting comes out black and the others very dark to where ya can barely see the image on the LCD. I took some RAWs last night, but being blacked out or very dark, even though there was plenty of light, I deleted them, too. But while set on P, all the images were so yellowish and brownish, even on the Nikon.
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  • KiloKilo Registered Users Posts: 210 Major grins
    edited March 18, 2009
    Fear not - I have a friend I taught to shoot with a dSLR. When she started, she literally didn't know the difference between shutter speed and aperture (D'oh, I think most of us start out in photography that way). For the first three weeks of very intensive practicing, she cussing me out and regretting getting the dSLR, saying she was going to go back to shooting with her P&S because she got better pictures with it with a lot less effort. Sometime during that third week, it all clicked and life has been good ever since.

    So, hang in there - it'll gel for you as well. deal.gif
    Yeah, I can imagine people getting frustrated trying to learn to do whatever they're trying to learn, whether one is studying to be a neurologist, a pro-photographer with F or DSLRs, a pianist or a martial artist, etc.

    I haven't really gotten 100% frustrated, just down on myself about the entire situation. My first SLR was a film camera. It took good pictures half the time, other times he prints were blank. Had to get rid of the FSLR, especially since I don't have a darkroom of my very own, or redroom as some call it.

    I got my first camera in spring 2005, and to this very day, I haven't learned much at all about all the functions and settings. Have been shooting in auto mode for over three years now. I should take DSLR classes, but don't have too much time yet, nor the money since I'm saving to either get a new transmission for my car or get another car.

    One way and one day or another, I will take classes and become good at photography. I've been online looking for local classes, but for now I'll read up on everything you all say, and still will after all the classes are over.

    I enjoy this hobby too much to ever give up on it. Many think I foolishly spent $435 for my 30D and 28-135 lens, even though it's about a $1900 system. Sold my Nikon D50 for $300, used that to knock $300 off the $450 price tag on the 30D, and then paid $285 for the lens, (equals out to $435). And both are in mint condition. The camera was never used but the lens was, but only for a few shots. To me, the owner took great pictures with it, but he didn't like it enough, so he put it on a consignment sale. I believe I was blessed to get these. :-)
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  • KiloKilo Registered Users Posts: 210 Major grins
    edited March 18, 2009
    ziggy53 wrote:
    Raw Shooter Essentials (RSE) was free software to promote their full software, Raw Shooter. Unfortunately they were bought out and the product is no longer available and no longer updated. I am not sure if it will load Canon 30D RAW files or not.

    If you got all of the software originally included with the 30D you should have a disk with Canon's DPP software (Digital Photo Professional). DPP is a pretty good RAW processor. You will also need an image editor.

    Other free software (Windows) RAW processors include:

    RAW Therapee
    RAWDrop

    Other free image editors include:

    GIMP
    Picasa
    IrfanView

    A lot of people do use Adobe products including Elements to process RAW files. Of course Adobe ACR and PhotoShop CS4 are probably the premier software available, with other products somewhere inbetween.

    Be sure to post and search in the "Finishing School" forum for lots more tips on the software, and check the "Technique" forum for ways to improve what you do and how you work.

    Well RSE installed to Vista, but it wouldn't register to get everything about it to work. Must be `cos they're no longer around like you said, and also as you mentioned, it probably won't work for a 30D, so I've uninstalled it.

    I'll go ahead and try those programs you've posted... DPP, RAW Therapee, RAWDrop, etc, as well as visiting the Finishing School and Technique forums.


    As for my PS7, I still haven't been able to figure out how to make frames (like white or black borders) around a picture. Been trying to for months now. It's like there's nothing in there to work with, but I still mess with it from time to time, trying to figure it out. lol
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  • Scott_QuierScott_Quier Registered Users Posts: 6,524 Major grins
    edited March 18, 2009
    Kilo wrote:
    I should take DSLR classes, but don't have too much time yet, nor the money since I'm saving to either get a new transmission for my car or get another car.

    One way and one day or another, I will take classes and become good at photography. I've been online looking for local classes, but for now I'll read up on everything you all say, and still will after all the classes are over.
    No need for the classes .... reading a few well-chosen books will solve most of the problem. The balance can easily be taken care of by asking questions here, reading the answers, and then TESTING the answers to make sure you understand them and that "information" you received is correct (usually is, but not always).

    Take a look here for some suggested reading. I can highly recommend "Understanding Exposure" - LOTS of good info there.
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