Canon MPE-65...

Candid Arts

So I had to rent this lens for a project I'm working on in my Beg. B&W photography class. I've used it once before, with VERY limited results. Anybody who has used this lens knows that it takes time to learn how to use, and use well.

I'll get the lens in a week from today and will have it for a week after that.

Here, I'm looking to get a few tips on best ways and some "shortcuts" or anything that will help me get better and more results from my short time useage of this lens.

Some of my main problems last time I used this were light and focus. Being that it doesn't have a focusing ring, and my subject mater was fixed on the ground, trying to mm by mm move my tripod this way or the other to focus the photo was, needless to say, EXTREMELY DIFFICULT! I'll be working with food this time, so I'll be able to move the subject matter in small increments rather than trying to move the tripod, so I think that will help. It will also be indoors, so I can control the lighting a bit better as well.

However, once I'm done with shooting for the project, I will be trying to use the lens for other stuff. Whatever I can find that I'll want to Macro. So any tips on anything in regards to technique to use this lens would be greatly appreciated.

I'll be putting on an EOS-1 for my film stuff, I have a Manfrotto 190CXPRO3 tripod, with a Manfrotto 48RC4 ballhead. I also have a shutter release cable for the EOS-1 as well. For digital, I'll be using a 50D, (same tripod stuff obviously), and a shutter release for that also.

Thanks for anytips!:bow

pathfinder

Focusing rail, perhaps?

Flash for lighting.

Candid Arts

pathfinder wrote:

Focusing rail, perhaps?

Flash for lighting.

Interesting. Never knew what that was. Too spendy though. If I were to be buying this lens, that'd be more likely.

I do have a 580 EXII and 420EX that I can (and probably will) use for lighting. On-camera and off camera, bounce, fill, whatever. As well as some house/ambient lighting.

One thing I noticed the last time I used this lens was vibration. I had it mounted sturdy, and if the cord on my release cable moved, the lens would move. It was ridiculously sensitive. Any ways of solving this? Or should I just sit there 'till nothing is moving and shoot then?

Also...I was going to try some very basic focus stacking with the results from my digital. However, do you think this is a possibility on film? 1 of two ways... Either shooting separate pictures and stacking the 35mm negatives on top of each other in the dark room for printing, or do multiple exposures on one slide of film and focus stack that way?

darkdragon

i don't think that on-camera flash is going to to do you any good at all with this lens. i've only used it 2 times myself, but from what i remember you have to be very close and therefor on-camera flash will just hit the barrel and create a nice black shadow over your subject.

If you have camera cord or wireless trigger, get that flash off the camera and to the side. The only way I see it working on-camera is to aim it full power at a reflector that is directly in front of the camera and behind the subject, angled down a bit so it and shoot the light to the top of the subject. then have a second reflector in front of the subject but under the camera to catch and reflect the previously reflected light.

I had the best results using this lens with a lot of light (flash) handheld. I don't think I have any of the shots online though to link you to.

ziggy53

Shooting inanimate objects with a very high magnification like the MPE-65 can provide is a genuine challenge.

If you are shooting straight down (using a tripod) you can "shim" the subject and remove/add the shims to gain some fine control over the lens to subject distance. If you shoot at an angle, you would need to both shim and move the subject closer/farther in order to maintain the same angular perspective (and to avoid resetting the tripod.)

An on camera flash can work if you use a mirror to redirect the light. A makeup mirror can be used in a pinch. Even aluminum foil can be used if need be. Just remember that the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection.

Candid Arts

darkdragon wrote:

i don't think that on-camera flash is going to to do you any good at all with this lens. i've only used it 2 times myself, but from what i remember you have to be very close and therefor on-camera flash will just hit the barrel and create a nice black shadow over your subject.

If you have camera cord or wireless trigger, get that flash off the camera and to the side. The only way I see it working on-camera is to aim it full power at a reflector that is directly in front of the camera and behind the subject, angled down a bit so it and shoot the light to the top of the subject. then have a second reflector in front of the subject but under the camera to catch and reflect the previously reflected light.

I had the best results using this lens with a lot of light (flash) handheld. I don't think I have any of the shots online though to link you to.

That's what I meant. Sorry for the confusion. I don't have a cord, sot he 580 will be on camera used as a master to trigger the 420 which will be off camera, and I could use the 580 as bounce too...

Thanks for the tips though.

ziggy53 wrote:

Shooting inanimate objects with a very high magnification like the MPE-65 can provide is a genuine challenge.

If you are shooting straight down (using a tripod) you can "shim" the subject and remove/add the shims to gain some fine control over the lens to subject distance. If you shoot at an angle, you would need to both shim and move the subject closer/farther in order to maintain the same angular perspective (and to avoid resetting the tripod.)

An on camera flash can work if you use a mirror to redirect the light. A makeup mirror can be used in a pinch. Even aluminum foil can be used if need be. Just remember that the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection.

Thanks for the tips Ziggy. Wonderful as always.

pathfinder

If vibration is a problem, mirror lock up and a cable release are part of the answer, as is flash, whether bounced or direct.

Candid Arts

pathfinder wrote:

If vibration is a problem, mirror lock up and a cable release are part of the answer, as is flash, whether bounced or direct.

Not vibration from the camera shooting, but from whatever else. I'm using Mirror Lock Up, as well as a cable release. Flash will be new to this round of trying. Last time though, when I had the cable release hooked up, and was looking through the viewfinder, if my hand moved (i.e. the cable attached to the camera moved), then when I'm looking through the lens, it moves. It was just SUPER sensitive (which I can understand at a 5:1 ratio), but still...

pathfinder

Canon Wireless remote then??

Or non OEM wireless remote


If a wired remote is moving your camera, then you need a more stable tripod/platform, don't you?

You are right, that the 5x magnification is going to make camera movement a significant concern.

Candid Arts

pathfinder wrote:

Canon Wireless remote then??

Or non OEM wireless remote


If a wired remote is moving your camera, then you need a more stable tripod/platform, don't you?

You are right, that the 5x magnification is going to make camera movement a significant concern.

Second idea is an option. Does the first one work with the 50D? I didn't think a wireless remote would work with it...

I wouldn't imagine I need a more stable tripod. The 190CXPRO3 is a pretty nice, sturdy tripod is it not? My weekest point I believe is my Ball head. the 488RC4 isn't the GREATEST, but it's pretty decent. I was on some very weird ground my first try, so we'll see how my next attempt goes. But overall, I think my tripod/ball head combo is enough for this lens (as far as weight is concerned at least). I'd really like to get the RRS BH-55, but I don't have the budget for that right now.

Thanks for the tips though...

darkdragon

Candid Arts wrote:

Second idea is an option. Does the first one work with the 50D? I didn't think a wireless remote would work with it...

I wouldn't imagine I need a more stable tripod. The 190CXPRO3 is a pretty nice, sturdy tripod is it not? My weekest point I believe is my Ball head. the 488RC4 isn't the GREATEST, but it's pretty decent. I was on some very weird ground my first try, so we'll see how my next attempt goes. But overall, I think my tripod/ball head combo is enough for this lens (as far as weight is concerned at least). I'd really like to get the RRS BH-55, but I don't have the budget for that right now.

Thanks for the tips though...

I use that ball head, at least I think it is that one and have had no problems even with the 70-200 2.8L - if you are having issues you might need to adjust the tension so that it is tighter.

Qarik

I would go hit up the macro forum..I know there are a few owners of that lens in there.

Candid Arts

darkdragon wrote:

I use that ball head, at least I think it is that one and have had no problems even with the 70-200 2.8L - if you are having issues you might need to adjust the tension so that it is tighter.

I've used the 70-200 2.8L as well with this set up and it's always been fine. I don't know what it was about the MPE-65. I'm guessing it's the 5:1 magnification that is making it so sensitive. I dunno. I'll just have to play around with it in a couple days and see what I can get it to do.

Candid Arts

Qarik wrote:

I would go hit up the macro forum..I know there are a few owners of that lens in there.

I was thinking this would be the more proper place to put this thread, and was hoping that some of the macro god's that use this lens would chime in over here. But it's not seeming that way...

EDIT: Apparently a mod thought it would be better in the Macro forum aswell. Hopefully I get some tips over here now...

pathfinder

Candid Arts wrote:

Second idea is an option. Does the first one work with the 50D? I didn't think a wireless remote would work with it...


Thanks for the tips though...

The second wireless remote works with a 40D and I believe will work with a 50D as well.

Lord Vetinari

The lens is a bit daunting at first. Most peeps using it will have the camera in M mode use settings such as ISO 100,1/200th, F11 with ettl flash. The flash duration then acts as the shutter speed. I use the lens all the time and don't use a tripod, remote or MLU. I just find things to rest the lens on at high magnification- if low to the ground then a brick perhaps with bean bag comes in handy. I normally put my hand on the brick or other object and the lens on my hand. You can then creep your hand forward or backward to achieve fine focus after setting the magnification you want on the lens.

Brian V.

Candid Arts

Lord Vetinari wrote:

The lens is a bit daunting at first. Most peeps using it will have the camera in M mode use settings such as ISO 100,1/200th, F11 with ettl flash. The flash duration then acts as the shutter speed. I use the lens all the time and don't use a tripod, remote or MLU. I just find things to rest the lens on at high magnification- if low to the ground then a brick perhaps with bean bag comes in handy. I normally put my hand on the brick or other object and the lens on my hand. You can then creep your hand forward or backward to achieve fine focus after setting the magnification you want on the lens.

Brian V.

Uhh...holy crap! Seriously? Wow! That's impressive. I'll have to play around with this technique.

Thank you Brian for the tips!

Another question I have is, how do you get SO close to bugs 'nsuch without scaring them away all the time? The biggest problem with the lens for me was the lack of focusing ring. The fact the at 5x, the front element had to be like an inch away from the subject matter. Everytime I try to take pics of bugs with my 100mm f/2.8 macro, they tend to move just with that...

Thank you so much for the help.

Lord Vetinari

Candid Arts wrote:

Uhh...holy crap! Seriously? Wow! That's impressive. I'll have to play around with this technique.

Thank you Brian for the tips!

Another question I have is, how do you get SO close to bugs 'nsuch without scaring them away all the time? The biggest problem with the lens for me was the lack of focusing ring. The fact the at 5x, the front element had to be like an inch away from the subject matter. Everytime I try to take pics of bugs with my 100mm f/2.8 macro, they tend to move just with that...

Thank you so much for the help.

Depends on what you mean by a focusing ring but as far as I'm concerned the ring on the MPE-65 is a focus ring just as much as it is on a normal macro lens. Just you notice the magnification effect more because it goes from close to amazingly close. I actually use my normal macro lens in the same way- set the magnification and focus by moving the camera (which makes a tripod very hard to use).
Some tips on not scaring off bugs here. http://www.flickr.com/groups/macroviewers/discuss/72057594073223102/
Brian v.