Full Length Portrait Lighting

seeker

I did a search of the forums (honest, I did!) and couldn't find anything that really addressed my question, which is why I am asking it here. If I *did* happen to miss an existing thread, I'm sorry.

I have a bridal portrait session this Saturday, but my question could apply to any portrait session where the subject will be standing. The question is simple - how big a light modifier (softbox, etc.) should I use to ensure even lighting of the entire subject? My space is small (less than 12' x 12') and so the softbox in question will be close to the subject - most likely just out of the camera's view.

Also, should I use more than one large softbox, or can I get away with one large, one small?

And finally, if I use one large and one small, should the large be used for fill (this is my guess) or for the key?

FWIW, I have 3 small softboxes I am using with strobes right now, and they have worked fine for my portrait sessions because I always have my subjects seated. Since the bride will be standing, I'm guessing they won't be sufficient.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Brian

Scrubs

In that space, I would just use an umbrella, and also make use of walls
and other objects to bounce off for diffuse light to give me the effect of
a 12foot soft box.

pathfinder

Interesting question.

Joe McNally in his latest book describes using two speedlites behing a 3 foot by 6 foot translucent Lastolite panel for a superlarge soft box that can be very close to the subject - just outside of the image frame.

Or a bedsheet tightly spread across a polypropylene pipe frame will be very similar, with two speedlights shot through to the sheet which becomes the new diffuse light source.

Or a sun bounce or a sun scrim from California Sunbounce.

Or stack a pair of soft boxes one on top of the other for the main light just out of the frame. Or window light.

Nikolai

I found that 3'x4' is not enough for a full height portrait if you want and even lighting from head to toes (the question here: do ya? :-)

I laso found than even with 7" octabox you will probably get at least half-stop difference across the height of the typical body (5..6 ft tall).

I ended up using two front lights for the normally lit full-height shots. One is the said 7" octabox, and another is a 20-degree grided key light for the head and shoulders area.

I'm pretty sure two 3x4 softboxes in a tower formation would give you a fiarly even lighting.

Naturally, as it's been mentioned, your environment (floor, walls, ceiling) would play a very important role in this and should be taken into the consideration.

HTH

LiquidAir

Nikolai wrote:

I'm pretty sure two 3x4 softboxes in a tower formation would give you a fiarly even lighting.

I have done this once or twice and it works reasonably well.

Another thing you can do is make a v-flat out of two sheets of 4'x8' foam core. Hinge them together with gaffer's tape, stand it up and point a couple of lights into the V as a bounce surface.

ChatKat

BiFold Doors
I took a couple Bifold doors from Home Depot and painted them white on one side for bouncing light and black on the other side for flagging. Works great and more sturdy than the foam core and about $30 each (not including the handyman with the paint brush) but he had a truck to bring them to me too.

seeker

Nikolai wrote:

I'm pretty sure two 3x4 softboxes in a tower formation would give you a fiarly even lighting.
HTH

This seems like the easiest path for me to take, as I have a total of 3 softboxes. I just purchased a clamp that will allow me to mount a second one on the light stand below the first. I will use the third on its own stand to control the ratio.

Thanks for the ideas! I will post results.

Brian