When to use Mirror Lockup (MLU)?
Scott_Quier
Registered Users Posts: 6,524 Major grins
I was reading around the various forums (not on DGrin) and ran across this,
which caused me pause. My understanding, based on my reading (a couple of years ago now) on this subject, is/was that the mirror slap can impart enough vibration to be noticable when the shutter speed was anything slower then the rule-of-thumb 1/FL [or 1/(FL * cropfactor), for crop cameras]. Because this statement wasn't contested in that other forum, I thought I would bring it here and see what people smarter and more experienced than me had to say. My practice has been to use MLU whenever practical, especially with longer lenses, regardless of the shutter speed. Have I been working harder rather than smarter? :dunno :scratchMirror lockup prevents mirror slap, which manifests itself mainly in exposures between 1/5 and 3 seconds or so. After that the exposure is long enough that the initial slap is muted, and shorter than that the slap doesn't have enough time to move the camera out of alignment.
Scott
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My general thoughts for MLU, are 1/30th to about 1/2 to 1 sec. Shutter speeds of 1/15th to 1/4 are the worst I believe. Depends on focal length to a certain extent, wider lenses significantly less than very long lenses. Theoretically, a long lens if held perfectly still, should not require a faster shutter speed than a wider lens, but tripods are just never that good for most of us.
Longer or shorter shutter speeds than stated above are less affected by the mirror movement for normal to wide lenses.
One thing not mentioned, but I'll bet some bodies ( better or pro ) are somewhat less affected than others. Full frames MAY be worse due to a larger, heavier mirror to move. I wonder if this is less of an issue for the 4/3 system, and the new Micro 4/3 does not have a mirror at all.
Canon used to make a pellicle mirror based system years ago that the mirror did not move also if memory serves.
That is why MLU with a 2 or 10 second delay before shutter activation is so worthwhile for maximum image sharpness.
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Testing sounds like the best, most surefire way to figure this out though. I'm interested in seeing the results.
OneTwoFiftieth | Portland, Oregon | Modern Portraiture
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Bodies: Canon 50D, Canon EOS 1
Lenses: Canon 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS, Canon 50mm f/1.4, Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8
Lighting: Canon 580EXII, Canon 420 EX, 12" Reflector, Pocket Wizard Plus II (3), AB800 (3), Large Softbox
Stability: Manfrotto 190CXPRO3 Tripod, Manfrotto 488RC4 Ball Head, Manfrotto 679B Monopod
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Yeah, Macro is one of the most important uses for me as the DOF is usually fairly narrow and with a 1:1 magnification (or higher with the MP-E), even a little bit of movement can and will be detected.
SUCH fun! Can't wait to see them.
OneTwoFiftieth | Portland, Oregon | Modern Portraiture
My Equipment:
Bodies: Canon 50D, Canon EOS 1
Lenses: Canon 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS, Canon 50mm f/1.4, Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8
Lighting: Canon 580EXII, Canon 420 EX, 12" Reflector, Pocket Wizard Plus II (3), AB800 (3), Large Softbox
Stability: Manfrotto 190CXPRO3 Tripod, Manfrotto 488RC4 Ball Head, Manfrotto 679B Monopod
I think of 1/30th - 1/60th for normal or wide lenses typically used for landscapes or product shots. There are those who refuse to hand hold less than 1/125th, but that is pretty confining as I am sure you know shooting weddings.
I would never choose to shoot a tripod mounted 400mm lens at 1/40th given any other choice. I would strongly prefer to stay close to 1/400th or 1/200th for a 400 mm lens. For your 200mm, I might accept 1/100 with MLU on a good firmly based tripod.
Baldy did his pano shots with a 600mm lens on two tripods heavily weighted - I am not certain about his shutter speed and use of MLU though.
Maybe he will give us his experience here.
This image is from a small portion of a 40 D image I shot with a 200-500mm at 500mm lens firmly sitting on a rock for stabiity at 1/250th at f8 at ISO 800. The deer was in the deep shade. No MLU was used nor was a remote shutter release. I did not like the choice of shutter speed, but the deer would not wait while I set up a tripod and activated MLU, so I did the best I could. I did not want to go to ISO 1600, but maybe that would have been a better choice than 1/250th. Maybe not. I have a print of this image at 16x20 and it does not suffer from blurring; a bit of grain, but not blurring from the mirror movement. That's my opinion, and I am sticking to it!!:D
Unless you can convince me otherwise, Scott!
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More later
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FWIW, I absolutely LOVE this photo. If it were mine (thus making printing it cheap) I would have printed this as a b-day present for my dad two weeks ago. But no money means no print...:-/. Anyways...beautiful photo.
OneTwoFiftieth | Portland, Oregon | Modern Portraiture
My Equipment:
Bodies: Canon 50D, Canon EOS 1
Lenses: Canon 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5, Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS, Canon 50mm f/1.4, Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro, Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8
Lighting: Canon 580EXII, Canon 420 EX, 12" Reflector, Pocket Wizard Plus II (3), AB800 (3), Large Softbox
Stability: Manfrotto 190CXPRO3 Tripod, Manfrotto 488RC4 Ball Head, Manfrotto 679B Monopod
here's my take on the subject. Please take it with the grain of salt since I'm trying to avoid MLU usage like a plague, hence my actual experience with using it is minimal.
- it's primarily related to the shutter speed and the effective duration (and strength) of vibration. My unsderstanting is that it becomes dangerous around 1/4 sec on a "fast" side and becomes irrelevant after 2-3 sec, with the "worst peak" being 1 sec.
- since it's caused by the vibration, the longer lens may prolong the duration due to the sheer mechanics (especially if a flimsy tripod is used), hence making an impression that the effect is increased along with the focal length used.
- the strength (or the initial amplitude) of the vibration plays an important role in this. We all remember the loud "slap" of Canon 20D. Since that time Canon engineers spent a lot of efforts dumpening the mirror, so the effect was gradually becomeing less ans less noticeable.
- the introduction of a LiveView mode pretty much nullified the effect, at least on a most recent crop (50D/5D2). I didn't use it much, but I did use it, and I yet to get a blurred image even though my shutter speed was quite often in the middle of the "danger zone".
HTHMacro: Canon 50D and Canon EF 100 f/2.8 Macro lens. All images are without MLU as I'm trying to determine when it might be useful.
The method: Mount the camera/lens on the tripod in the most "technique lacking" manner I could think of...
and position the camera/lens at an appropriate macro distance from the target (a bunch of intersecting black lines on white paper). Manually focus on the target using LiveView. In Tv mode and with EC set to +1.5 (shooting white paper, we want it to be white, not gray!) shoot with shutter speeds from 1/6 all the way up to 1/400. In multiple tries, I failed to get any of the images to exhibit blurring due to camera motion.
Distance: Canon 50D and Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8 IS at 140mm and IS NOT engaged - the idea was to avoid the end of the focal range
Method: Again ... Mount the camera/lens on the tripod in the most "technique lacking" manner I could think of, LV manually focus, turn off LV, fire off exposures, change Tv between exposures ...
Shooting from 1/400s all the way to 1/6s. Things were looking pretty good from 1/400 all the way to 1/100
Here 100% at 1/125s
Here's 100% crop at 1/100s
Heres' 100% at 1/60s
Here's 100% at 1/50s
Same blurring can be seen at any speed less than 1/60. BTW - some may question the fact that the camera strap was on the camera and that it might have caught some air movement - nope, still air.
So, now I know the limits of my equipment. Your's may (probably will) behave in a different manner. And, I'm sure that I could proably change the outcomes shown here had I used a bit better tripod technique (load the tripod a bit more, not use the center column extended, that sort of thing).
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Good test, Scott! I'll try ro follow!
One question: you said you failed to get a blur in macro mode and you also mentioned you were focusing in LiveView mode.. question: did you shoot in LV, too?
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You didn't include the aperture you used for each shot as well with the 70-200 - as you close down the aperture from f5.6-f8 you will find less sharpness than the more optimal images.
Not enough to explain your results, but may contribute some.
I find it interesting that the 70-200 at 140mm was so different from the 100mm. Seems to me that the results relate more to the mass of the lens, than the difference in focal length. Both seem to be of very high optical quality normally.
I would have loved to see your results with a 35 mm lens, or a 28mm lens.
Before we assume your results are due entirely due to movement, it would have been nice to see a second shot with MLU engaged that was clearer, wouldn't it?
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One thing I have used MLU for a lot is when I've forgotten to pack a remote release. Set the timer and MLU on (to get the 2 second timer), press the shutter, let go of the camera...
http://pyryekholm.kuvat.fi/
I'll try to do my own set of tests soon.
Here's my guess:
The 70-200 is mounted using a collar which means the mirror is not centered over the post. That means that when the mirror slaps it has a greater lever arm to set that tripod post a swingin'
I think the tripod setup contributes also, as Scott hinted at, as the center post is significantly extended, and I try very hard to NEVER extend my center post if at all possible.
I agree with Nik also about the IR remote for the 5DMkII - a very handy little gadget that I intend to use a lot. Mine arrived last week!
I think mirror slap is generally far less important than a heavy trigger finger,
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We have all learned a bit here I think.
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