Shoot cars at night, inside under bad lights
So i just started a new job at a car dealership, photographing Porsches in a garage under bright bad lights at night... any suggestions? :scratch
I have a Nikon D60 with a kit lens, nothing special, thanks
-Samantha
I have a Nikon D60 with a kit lens, nothing special, thanks
-Samantha
0
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Your best option is to move the car to a more suitable location. Some dealers are likely to agree if you can show an image of the location with a car to simulate the final concept.
If that is not an option.
If you have the ability to stretch a sheet above the car and diffuse the light that would be a start.
Another option if you can is to shut off the lights, shoot at a long exposure and paint the car with a flash light or other portable light.
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Are the cars on dark pavement or white/light concrete?
One thing I've done to help out is to wet dark pavement and/or wait until after a rain to take the pics (that may not be an option here), and if it's concrete I use a 2 or 4 stop gradual ND filter, turned upside down so that I can expose for the car and not blow out the concrete pad.
Takes some trial and error, here's an example - not my favorite shot, but without the NDGrad the sky would have been totally black and the concrete totally blown out:
Nikon | Private Photojournalist
I just want to take better pictures to make the cars look better and maybe they can sell more! thanks
Ahh... it's a work garage - sorry I was thinking parking garage.
Anything you can do to eliminate background distractions would be best. Maybe some exposures with all of the lights off and ONLY light painting the car would work to black out all the stuff behind the car...
Nikon | Private Photojournalist
You are certainly limited. You have some choices if the owner won't budge on the location.
1. Shoot tight on the car. Limit what is in the frame.
2. Turn off as many of the lights as possible.
3. Shoot as high up as possible. Get a ladder if necessary.
4. Don't shoot the entire car. Think fine art shots.
5. Shoot the car in sections and put together in photoshop.
And finally, you could drop the job. Explain to the owner that you are not a miracle worker, and if they truly want "pro" shots, you need more latitude in the process.
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Agreed, that is an option to consider. Try some of the suggestions given and see if you are happy with the results. If not try to get some latitude. If not it might be worth turning down the job.
By the way, how much you getting per picture, or per car? PM if you don't want to say in public. Thanks!
A former sports shooter
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Im gonna look into getting a better flash i only have the kit one and see how they look with the lights off and a fast shutter speed.. i dont start for till the 18th so i have some time to try it out in my garage at home
thanks for the all input!
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
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Heres a shot I did at a dyno day. Similar situation, metal halide overhead lighting and a mix of outdoor ambient to boot.
I used 2 high mounted sb-800s fired with CLS from my on board flash. I'm using alot of power which is why the overhead lights look so dim. You will need alot of punch to overwhelm the MH lights, but once you do you get control of the stage and can get nice results. If it were at night I'd Gel the flash to match the overhead lights so that you don't have a mix of colors.
If you could get them outside, even just for a minute you'd have a new world of opportunities to make them look good and crop out the distracting elements.
Here's a few I did recently for an MB dealership:
Nikon | Private Photojournalist
The detail shots I did some with on-camera and some with a single monolight
Matt
Bodies: Canon 5d mkII, 5d, 40d
Lenses: 24-70 f2.8L, 70-200 f4.0L, 135 f2L, 85 f1.8, 50 1.8, 100 f2.8 macro, Tamron 28-105 f2.8
Flash: 2x 580 exII, Canon ST-E2, 2x Pocket Wizard flexTT5, and some lower end studio strobes