My little garden nymph

lisarhinehart

On our way home from a princess birthday party I stopped at the local park to take some shots of my little one. She's contantly in motion and I'm just starting to learn how to use my SLR c&c welcome. --Lisa

1. f5.6 1/400


2. f7.1 1/250


3. f6.3 1/250


4. f18 1/25


5. f18 1/25

Elaine

She is super precious! I love the outfit combined with the setting, especially in that first one. And I really like the catchlights in her eyes on 3.

I'm glad you included the aperture/shutter speed with each pic. Am I correct to guess that you were using auto...letting the camera choose those settings? I'm guessing this because of the big shift between #3 and #4...from f/6.3 to f/18. With portraits of a single subject, it usually works best to have your aperture setting more open (smaller f#), as this narrows the depth of field and allows the background to nicely blur and make your subject stand out. Depending on the lens, I like to shoot portraits in the f/2 - f/5.6 range. On #4, you'll notice that along with the f/18 setting came a very slow shutter speed of 1/25. As f/18 is a very small aperture opening, the shutter had to slow down in order to get the correct amount of light for a proper exposure. See how her arm is blurred in #4? That's because of the 1/25 shutter speed. If you set your camera for Aperture Priority, choose a "wide-open" aperture of something closer to f/4, your shutter speed would zoom right up.

It looks like you have a willing model, full of expression and joy. Keep clicking! These are so sweet, and they'll only get better!

divamum

These are beautiful - she's gorgeous!

I'll agree wtih Elaine. That said, while some blurring of the bg might have been nice (and a wider aperture would be more typical for portraits at what looks like a fairly close distance), in this particular set I don't find the sharp DOF a problem at all - you chose lovely backgrounds which aren't distracting and with her costume make for a beautiful overall shot.

I'm guessing you were giving your 580ex a trial run, hence the 250 shutter speeds?

Mitchell

These are really cute. I also have a garden nymph at my house.



I like #1 and #3 the best here. #1 could have a tighter crop and is slightly rotated.

Several of these have a bluish cast and are slightly underexposed. Looks like you need to adjust your white balance a bit.

I wonder what was running through your mind when you went to f18 on the last two shots? What were you trying to accomplish at that aperture that you could not get at a wider aperture? Ask yourself this question when you are shooting.

I like the surroundings you have here. They do not need to be completely blurred, but a wider aperture would have focused more attention on your nymph.

WingsOfLovePhoto

Cute girl! I really like #2 as my favorite. I agree with the others on the aperature. The surroundings of the tree and the fairy theme would work nicely with a large aperature and nice bokeh for the dreamland effect. I don't usually do any portraits outside greater than 5.6 but usually 2.8 or 4 and use a fast shutter speed especially with the kids who are on the move. I must be very steady or using a tripod to get a crisp picture at 1/25th and a swinging in a tree child. Good job!

lisarhinehart

I'm just learning
Thanks everyone for your kind words It was so much fun shooting with her and really a lovely location. I think i might use it for my SIL's engagement pics.

My rationale for the settings... well mostly chosen out of ignorance b/c I really don't know what I'm doing and am just learning.

I typically want a lot of blur especially in portraits, but since this was such a pretty background and it was such a contrast to her skin and outfit, I thought she'd still stand out, so why not try it. I guess I was trying something different and moving to the higher ap numbers, though I think I did go overboard and loose track of the ap.

I didn't mean to keep it on f18 so long-- I was taking a shot of the whole garden and never changed it back. I think I got pre-occupied in changing focus points and keeping her interested. I don't know how ya'll keep on top of all the little settings, but I guess I'll get there.

I would have liked it to feel more magical like Mitchel's (sweet fairy ), maybe dark and saturated and have more bokeh-- though when I tried that it seemed to need a dangerously high ISO to pull it off... I was having trouble as I was not using a flash (wishful thinking DM-- I am still super lost on that one ), I needed to put the ISO up pretty high to prevent motion blurring. Did that make them more white/bright? I really feel like they are too bright (ISO too high?) and detailed in the background (app too high?). Mitchel mentioned underexposed does that have to do with too fast a shut and too small an app?

I think DM is right in her advice to adjust ap, iso, and shut on a fixed collection of subjects and study how they interact together. This seems so boring that I haven't disciplined myself to do so and instead practice/learn on real subjects, which is fun, but proably not the best idea.

It sounds like most of you would have shot in 2.8-5.6 and kept the ISO up to keep the shutter fast enough to capture movements. I am confused b/c I thought ISO bumps up the shutter speed and shutter speed is suposed to be 1/mm lens you are using-- so why at 6.3 w/ my 50 mm lens and 800 ISO is my shutter speed still in the 1/15-1/20 range, it is doomed to blur or get all pixeley. Again, maybe I just have to use a flash.

WingsOfLovePhoto

Practice Practice Practice.....try new things, get onto manual. It works so much better. I learned something on this forum that makes it all make sense. Aperature controls exposure and shutter speed controls ambient light. I never shoot over 200iso in daylight. There shouldn't be a need for that. If I am in open shade mostly my settings would be like F 4 and 1/250th, darker shade maybe F2.8 and 1/125th. Even without flash you should be able to accomplish a good exposure at these settings. As far as the lens...it is recommended..only for hand holding that you don't use a shutter speed lower than the longest length of your lens. Ie: you have a 24-70 zoom you should try to keep your shutter speed greater than 70 when hand holding to avoid shake. These are just a few of the rules I had learned when I first started and after practice with natural light found that mostly it works. This ambient light thing can be noted best when taking pictures of the sky with clouds. you can shoot on f4 then up your ss to like 1/1000 and get a really deep blue sky. lower that to 25O and the sky will be blown out white. mostly because you are not in control of your ambient light(the sun) Hope this makes some sense. Keep posting pics of that cute girl of yours!

lisarhinehart wrote:

Thanks everyone for your kind words It was so much fun shooting with her and really a lovely location. I think i might use it for my SIL's engagement pics.

My rationale for the settings... well mostly chosen out of ignorance b/c I really don't know what I'm doing and am just learning.

I typically want a lot of blur especially in portraits, but since this was such a pretty background and it was such a contrast to her skin and outfit, I thought she'd still stand out, so why not try it. I guess I was trying something different and moving to the higher ap numbers, though I think I did go overboard and loose track of the ap.

I didn't mean to keep it on f18 so long-- I was taking a shot of the whole garden and never changed it back. I think I got pre-occupied in changing focus points and keeping her interested. I don't know how ya'll keep on top of all the little settings, but I guess I'll get there.

I would have liked it to feel more magical like Mitchel's (sweet fairy ), maybe dark and saturated and have more bokeh-- though when I tried that it seemed to need a dangerously high ISO to pull it off... I was having trouble as I was not using a flash (wishful thinking DM-- I am still super lost on that one ), I needed to put the ISO up pretty high to prevent motion blurring. Did that make them more white/bright? I really feel like they are too bright (ISO too high?) and detailed in the background (app too high?). Mitchel mentioned underexposed does that have to do with too fast a shut and too small an app?

I think DM is right in her advice to adjust ap, iso, and shut on a fixed collection of subjects and study how they interact together. This seems so boring that I haven't disciplined myself to do so and instead practice/learn on real subjects, which is fun, but proably not the best idea.

It sounds like most of you would have shot in 2.8-5.6 and kept the ISO up to keep the shutter fast enough to capture movements. I am confused b/c I thought ISO bumps up the shutter speed and shutter speed is suposed to be 1/mm lens you are using-- so why at 6.3 w/ my 50 mm lens and 800 ISO is my shutter speed still in the 1/15-1/20 range, it is doomed to blur or get all pixeley. Again, maybe I just have to use a flash.

Mitchell

We've all been there.

Take a step back and a deep breath. I applaud that you are getting out there and shooting while trying to figure out how the different settings on your camera work. The problem is that it's hard enough chasing a young child around a garden trying to compose good photos. When you factor in your camera questions, it just becomes overwhelming.

Take some time and read a basic photography book.

Try to apply some of what you read and learn on a stationary subject.

Once you understand the settings and functions of your camera, they will become second nature to you. You won't have to think so hard at that point when you start chasing your nymph.

divamum

Lisa -

The term "ISO" is a hangover from film days, when it was the number assigned to any given film to let you know that film's sensitivity to light. The higher the number, the faster - more responsive to light - the film.

The term has carried over to dSLRs (even though the technology for it is completely different).

Therefore, the ISO does NOT in and of itself adjust your exposure, shutter speed, or aperture setting, but adjusts the sensitivity of the "film" (in this case the digital sensor in your camera) which in turn enables you to use different shutter and aperture settings according to your need in any given situation. You might want a lower ISO (less sensitive to light) if you were shooting in bright light and wanted to open the aperture up more. You might use a higher ISO (more sensitive to light) if you want to handhold in dimmer lighting and need to somehow get a higher shutter speed without flash.

I'm not sure if other people think of like this, but for me it's a more global setting - once you see the general light in a location, just pick a reasonable ISO for the situation (just like you would have chosen a film to take with you back in the olden times of 35mm) and then use your shutter speed and aperture combinations to get what you want. Sure, you can adjust on the fly shot-per-shot (what a luxury compared to film days!) but unless the light is HIGHLY variable in one shoot, just pick one and then use the "fine-tuning" adjustments instead.

lisarhinehart

ISO, practice shots, flow chart to help make sense of this
If what you are saying is that ISO helps remove blur b/c it causes the camera to be more sensitive to light; then what is actually happening is that I am choosing a fast shutter speed to freeze motion which would normally result in a dark shot, but by chanign the ISO even though the shutter is only open for a short time, it still gets an exposure.

So it looks like I'm going to have to do this practice thing. Are there any certain objects that you suggest using to make it a little more intersting or useful? I used wet leaves on my first try (I'm not sure how to link to my posts) then my daughter trying on hats, then this fairy one of her. You are right still objects are much easier.

I actually am reading a book called Understanding Exposure that I really like-- I think I'm on p.130 or something. I would really like to see a flow chart with if then statements-- if you are trying to get this effect then try these settings and this is why; if you are having this trouble try to fix it by adjusting this because... almost like a medical book flow chart if you know what I mean. I definately want to understand as much as I can.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond to my posts. I think you are are really accelerating my growth with all of your feedback.

divamum

lisarhinehart wrote:

If what you are saying is that ISO helps remove blur b/c it causes the camera to be more sensitive to light; then what is actually happening is that I am choosing a fast shutter speed to freeze motion which would normally result in a dark shot, but by chanign the ISO even though the shutter is only open for a short time, it still gets an exposure.

Yes - it reacts to the smaller amount of light it gets when the shutter is open for a shorter time.

So it looks like I'm going to have to do this practice thing. Are there any certain objects that you suggest using to make it a little more intersting or useful?

Vase of flowers? Stack of books? Pile of laundry? Stuffed toys set up as a portrait grouping? Bush in your front yard? Your car? Seriously - these photos are not necessarily going to be great art... you don't need to overthink it, just pick something and methodically shoot it with different settings so you can see what happens!!!!

I actually am reading a book called Understanding Exposure that I really like-- I think I'm on p.130 or something. I would really like to see a flow chart with if then statements-- if you are trying to get this effect then try these settings and this is why; if you are having this trouble try to fix it by adjusting this because... almost like a medical book flow chart if you know what I mean.

Any situation has too many variables. The rules of thumb are:

- if you need to freeze the action or compensate for camera shake, then bump up the shutter speed

- if you need more light (and can't lower the shutter speed any further for whatever reason) or want to blur the background more, then open up the aperture

- if you're struggling to handhold because no matter how open the aperture is, your shutter is too slow, then up the ISO or add a flash.

Now, go practice!

Elaine

I'm glad you're reading Understanding Exposure. That's a keeper!

I know what you mean about having a flow chart...but things have to remain pretty fluid, based on the situation. I do run through a quick little checklist in my head, though. I shoot on manual and it goes something like this (not necessarily in this order, but here's a starting point):

• Aperture - is it as wide open as it can/should be in this situation? (Keep in mind desired depth of field.) I then aim and focus on my subject (with appropriate focus point) and check to see where the little marker is on my exposure scale (that number line that starts with -2 and goes to +2).

• Shutter Speed - is it fast enough to get a sharp, well-exposed portrait in this situation? (Keep in mind the rule of thumb about the focal length of the lens and if it has Image Stabilization or not for your movement, and if your subject is wiggly or not.) I have a wheel on my camera that I use to scroll the exposure marker to the right of zero (slow shutter down) and to the left of zero (speed shutter up). To be honest, I rarely end up shooting with the marker right above the zero. (For basic portraits, it’s usually a tick or two to the right, on my camera.) I adjust the shutter speed by scrolling that little marker around to where I think it may be a proper exposure, paired with my already chosen aperture.

• ISO - is it appropriate, based on my aperture and shutter speed needs? Once I have attained what I hope to be a proper exposure with my aperture and shutter speed, if my shutter is absurdly fast for the situation (say 1/5000 for a still portrait), then I lower the ISO (if possible) and slow down my shutter speed so the little exposure marker is back where I want it. (I lower the ISO because a lower ISO provides a cleaner, less grainy photo. I slow down the shutter because once I lower the ISO, my exposure has changed and I need to readjust.) If, on the other hand, my shutter is too slow for a sharp shot, then I bump up the ISO and speed up my shutter for proper exposure, and click away and check my histogram.

• Histogram - in general...is it approaching the right side, but not bunched up on it or pushed over the edge? A wider aperture, slower shutter and higher ISO are all ways to introduce more light to your camera sensor, so to speak. You have to set all three so they work together for your particular photo, providing a combination of proper exposure and sharpness.

This was written awhile ago, for a different audience, so my apologies for any redundant info here. I just wanted to share one way of thinking it through. This process now takes me just a couple seconds to evaluate, as I've started to become more comfortable with reading natural light situations. (The key word there is "started!") Instead of a straight flow chart, it helps me to start with these four things: aperture, shutter, ISO, histogram...then branch off from each one. White balance is also another consideration.
Hope that helps!

lisarhinehart

understanding-exposure-like reccomendations
Elaine thanks for the great tips and breaking it down for me. i am starting to understand things a little better which is good. Looking about on it I should have opened my ap up a lot more for these shots. :P oh well

I understand that there are a lot of variables, and so flow charts wouldn't work for everything but there are a few basic things that could be on there to get me started. Portraits, Waterfalls, Landscapes with distant mountains-- there are a few that people have typical gages forUnderstanding Exposure might have some of that in there.

Ie Wings of Love wrote: "If I am in open shade mostly my settings would be like F 4 and 1/250th, darker shade maybe F2.8 and 1/125th. Even without flash you should be able to accomplish a good exposure at these settings".

Just for me to have a starting point and then understand enough about how to adjust my camera to get the effect I am looking for. I'm sure there are resoucres out there.

After I'm finished reading understanding exposure, I might page through it again and write down some main points and try to commit some basic things to memory if need be. What else did people read that is simple and gives a good basic idea of exposure? Maybe one that woudl be a good follow up or drive home the same basic concepts.

I still haven't done anything with the practice shots, but plan to. When I do I will post them.

I am also starting to understand how a few things in my camera (light meter ISO, etc) can be helpful and can actually read the manual and understand the language a bit. Thanks for all your help!

WingsOfLovePhoto

lisarhinehart wrote:

Elaine thanks for the great tips and breaking it down for me. i am starting to understand things a little better which is good. Looking about on it I should have opened my ap up a lot more for these shots. :P oh well

I understand that there are a lot of variables, and so flow charts wouldn't work for everything but there are a few basic things that could be on there to get me started. Portraits, Waterfalls, Landscapes with distant mountains-- there are a few that people have typical gages forUnderstanding Exposure might have some of that in there.

Ie Wings of Love wrote: "If I am in open shade mostly my settings would be like F 4 and 1/250th, darker shade maybe F2.8 and 1/125th. Even without flash you should be able to accomplish a good exposure at these settings".

Just for me to have a starting point and then understand enough about how to adjust my camera to get the effect I am looking for. I'm sure there are resoucres out there.

After I'm finished reading understanding exposure, I might page through it again and write down some main points and try to commit some basic things to memory if need be. What else did people read that is simple and gives a good basic idea of exposure? Maybe one that woudl be a good follow up or drive home the same basic concepts.

I still haven't done anything with the practice shots, but plan to. When I do I will post them.

I am also starting to understand how a few things in my camera (light meter ISO, etc) can be helpful and can actually read the manual and understand the language a bit. Thanks for all your help!

Thought this might interest you, found it while browsing today....

http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=30235

lisarhinehart

thanks
thanks for thinking of me. i checked out the link, but a lot of it went over my head :P some of it sunk in, though. thanks everyone for reviewing my pics. --Lisa