Macro and f-stop

TizianoTiziano Registered Users Posts: 184 Major grins
edited May 24, 2009 in Technique
So I got my Tokina 100mm f/2.8 Macro the other day and have just begun playing with it.

What struck me initially was that the f/2.8 setting was not constant like on my other primes. When I power up the cam it'll go to 2.8 but as soon as I focus on something it jumps up. At times the lowest I can set is f/4.

I read through the flyer-type manual (it's a one size fits all for all of their current lenses) and found a reference to the aperture changing based upon whether one is in macro mode or not. At least I think I read that last night at 2AM. I don't have it with me ATM.

I've 2 questions.
Is there something amiss with my lens?
If not, would someone explain why this macro lens is not able to constantly keep it's aperture at f2.8?
A Nikon D90 plus some Nikon, Sigma & Tokina lenses.

Comments

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,130 moderator
    edited May 21, 2009
    I believe that your lens is compensating for the loss in efficiency at very long extensions. Extension tubes have the same impact when they work to expand the image circle and reduce the efficiency of the lens.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • TizianoTiziano Registered Users Posts: 184 Major grins
    edited May 21, 2009
    OK, so that's the result of the front element physically extending so far out when focussing close. Interesting. Is this a normal thing? I mean, would the Sigma 105mm Macro do the same thing?
    A Nikon D90 plus some Nikon, Sigma & Tokina lenses.
  • BrendanBrendan Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited May 21, 2009
    I believe almost all (if not all) macro lenses do this. My Nikon 60mm f/2.8 Micro does the same thing, and my old MF macro lens even has exposure compensation values listed on the lens barrel to account for light loss.

    The good news is that it shouldn't really matter. DoF will be ridiculously shallow at large apertures and close focus anyway, so there should be no need to open up further. You should probably be using a tripod anyway, so the loss of light shouldn't matter. And you can still use the lens as a 'normal' lens with the aperture set ~f/2.8.

    Hope this helps.

    —Brendan
  • TizianoTiziano Registered Users Posts: 184 Major grins
    edited May 21, 2009
    Thanks Brendan. Between your response and Ziggy's I think I've finally got it!
    A Nikon D90 plus some Nikon, Sigma & Tokina lenses.
  • TosserTosser Registered Users Posts: 65 Big grins
    edited May 21, 2009
    Canon's 100 f2.8 macro does not do that.

    It's also internal focusing so the front element does not move.
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited May 21, 2009
    Macro lenses are not used for macro purposes wide open. deal.gif

    Not an absolute truth, maybe, but as close as you are going to get in photography.

    Look through the Macro forum for an image shot wide open, by Lord Vetinari or other posters.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • TosserTosser Registered Users Posts: 65 Big grins
    edited May 21, 2009
    pathfinder wrote:
    Macro lenses are not used for macro purposes wide open. deal.gif

    Not an absolute truth, maybe, but as close as you are going to get in photography.

    Look through the Macro forum for an image shot wide open, by Lord Vetinari or other posters.

    True if you are trying to accurately depict a bug or something.

    I'm often trying for something a little more "creative" and frequently use the lens wide open to get a shallow DOF. It's a challenge though because at 2.8 and 2" the DOF is razor thin.
  • QarikQarik Registered Users Posts: 4,959 Major grins
    edited May 21, 2009
    I have my fstop at f/16 on my sigma 105mm macro and always use a flash. I don't think any GOOD macro setup is going to use f/2.8 (that's like 1 billionth of an inch dof heh) and no flash
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  • BrendanBrendan Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited May 21, 2009
    Tosser wrote:
    True if you are trying to accurately depict a bug or something.

    I'm often trying for something a little more "creative" and frequently use the lens wide open to get a shallow DOF. It's a challenge though because at 2.8 and 2" the DOF is razor thin.

    Agreed. I shoot wide open with my macro lens quite often to pursue something a bit more 'creative' (or at least that's my goal). For example, this photograph was shot wide open to achieve a specific goal:

    456682246_EkNqz-M.jpg

    —Brendan
  • jfriendjfriend Registered Users Posts: 8,097 Major grins
    edited May 22, 2009
    Biarien wrote:
    Agreed. I shoot wide open with my macro lens quite often to pursue something a bit more 'creative' (or at least that's my goal). For example, this photograph was shot wide open to achieve a specific goal:



    —Brendan
    If you are shooting at 1:1 macro distance, I challenge anyone to be able to tell the difference between a shot at f/2.8 and f/4. We're talking about the difference between 0.01" and 0.02" inches of DOF. It's razor thin no matter which wide aperture you pick.

    These macro lenses are designed for typical uses at their macro distance which will be shot at at least f/8 and often f/11-f/22 to get some semblance of depth in focus so anything other than a completely flat subject can be seen as in focus.
    --John
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  • TizianoTiziano Registered Users Posts: 184 Major grins
    edited May 22, 2009
    I spent two hours shooting flowers last night with this lens.
    AMAZING is the word!

    It did have a learning curve however.
    One thing I was used to with the Sigma zoom/macro was getting real close. At the extended 70mm I often just about had the front lens element touching the flower in order to fill the frame as I intended. With the 100mm I had to keep backing up a bit.

    Also, I always shoot these things handheld. I know, I know that I need to use a tripod but I'd rather wing it. With the 100mm it's even more sensitve to movement that the 70mm. Still, manually focussing I was able to shoot 200 shots in 2 hours and only a small handfull are blurry.

    Finally, the extra distance I mentioned in point 1 above also really helped with the DOF. It is noticeable to me compared to the 70mm.
    A Nikon D90 plus some Nikon, Sigma & Tokina lenses.
  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,708 moderator
    edited May 22, 2009
    Biarien wrote:
    Agreed. I shoot wide open with my macro lens quite often to pursue something a bit more 'creative' (or at least that's my goal). For example, this photograph was shot wide open to achieve a specific goal:

    456682246_EkNqz-M.jpg

    —Brendan

    What you are doing is a perfectly valid use of a mild telephoto lens, but does not require a macro lens to do.

    The use of telephotos, focusing closely to the film plane, with a wide aperture, can offer very shallow DOFs. Extension tubes can even be used to increase the shallowness of the DOF, but this is not necessarily a real macro photograph, until you get close to a 1:1 ratio of image size at the film plane to subject size.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • TizianoTiziano Registered Users Posts: 184 Major grins
    edited May 22, 2009
    Here's one of the shots I'm happiest with (also crossposted in the Macro forum).
    Handheld, ISO200, 1/200 at f/18, minimal Lightroom 2 post processing, no cropping.

    543139523_7AVQM-L.jpg
    A Nikon D90 plus some Nikon, Sigma & Tokina lenses.
  • TosserTosser Registered Users Posts: 65 Big grins
    edited May 24, 2009
    Here's one at 2.8 just putzing around in the yard. And, this was at macro distance of about 4" from the subject.
  • TosserTosser Registered Users Posts: 65 Big grins
    edited May 24, 2009
    The same subject at f13 just doesn't appeal to me.
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