Soccer pics with new 50D
First day out with the new Canon 50D using the 70-200mm with 1.4 extender. These are form last Saturday's late afternoon games with the bigger kids.
Thanks for looking,
-Andy
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Thanks for looking,
-Andy
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Andy
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
0
Comments
Troy, MI
D700/200, SB800(4), 70-200, 300 2.8 and a few more
www.sportsshooter.com/tjk60
On the horizons, I actually straighten nearly every picture before cropping. We have some rolling hills, even the fields not level, plus the fences have slanted posts. So sometimes I am using an estimated level horizon to rotate the pictures.
Good job of commenting on so many posts.
http://andygriffinphoto.com/
http://andygriffin.smugmug.com/
Canon 7D, 70-200mm L, 50 and 85 primes, Tamron 17-50, 28-135
If you don't have a decent horizontal to adjust to try using the player's eyes to set your horizon line.
Also see if you can crop #12 so you can just get the player's head, sweat spray, and ball in the shot. If you are using PS or LR boost the clarity to max. Up the saturation and maybe the vibrancy about +5 each. See how that turns out. Yes I know that this will cut off a player's head but if you mess with it in PS enough you can make a selection of the sweat, sweaty head and ball. Now inverse the selection set the feather to about 30 then add some light blur to the rest of the image.
Don't forget if this is a .jpg and you are working in PS with the original to work on a layer copy and not the base image. LR does not matter.
"Most time its not the gear that makes the shot"