I'd be happy if someone else jumped in here to add more info, but here's what I've read.
EZPrints uses Fuji Frontier printers (or at least they did as of a few years ago) and those are laser printers with a print resolution of 300x600 (meaning 300 dpi in the paper feed direction, 600dpi in the laser scan direction). A laser printer is known as a "continuous tone" device (because they can vary the power and duration of the laser to any amount). So, I'm guessing that you should pick "continuous tone" as the printer type.
If you are printing at BayPhoto, I don't know what type of printers they use.
If you really want optimal results, you may need to try several different settings and then do a bunch of sample prints. Since sharpening for printing is not the same as sharpening for web display, you will also want to sharpen for print, upload to Smugmug and then see how the web display looks to make sure it's good enough for your purposes.
I asked havanese show show me some examples sharpened by his software, then I used my experience to determine if they'd print well at our labs. Thanks!
Partially correct, only for some stuff, and then only a fraction of that. There are Noritsus, Durst Thetas, Imaging Solution Fastprints as well.
I used output to screen for the sharpening on those pictures.
I have fallen in love with the metallic prints from EZ (11x14), Andy would you think the "Display" option or "Continuous" would be better for those kind of prints. If Continuous what would you use for dpi?
I asked havanese show show me some examples sharpened by his software, then I used my experience to determine if they'd print well at our labs. Thanks!
Except that isn't the question he asked. He asked what settings he should use for sharpening and the implication is that he wants the optimal sharpening. You just answered that whatever he was doing was fine. Clearly when someone is going to the trouble of using a third party sharpener and asking about the settings for it, they are trying to optimize things and I don't think he yet has an answer to that question.
I acknowledge that your eye is pretty experienced on these kinds of things, but I think he was asking for a more complete answer than "those would be fine".
I acknowledge that your eye is pretty experienced on these kinds of things, but I think he was asking for a more complete answer than "those would be fine".
Except that isn't the question he asked. He asked what settings he should use for sharpening and the implication is that he wants the optimal sharpening. You just answered that whatever he was doing was fine. Clearly when someone is going to the trouble of using a third party sharpener and asking about the settings for it, they are trying to optimize things and I don't think he yet has an answer to that question.
I acknowledge that your eye is pretty experienced on these kinds of things, but I think he was asking for a more complete answer than "those would be fine".
I can't because I don't use Nik Sharpener. So I gave the best answer I could, based on seeing about one billion prints over the last five years from our labs
I used output to screen for the sharpening on those pictures.
I have fallen in love with the metallic prints from EZ (11x14), Andy would you think the "Display" option or "Continuous" would be better for those kind of prints. If Continuous what would you use for dpi?
Continuous and what are the DPI Settings that are available? If you aren't thrilled, don't worry: You're fully covered by the SmugMug Guarantee.
Continuous and what are the DPI Settings that are available? If you aren't thrilled, don't worry: You're fully covered by the SmugMug Guarantee.
I think I will try some test prints in the coming weeks and see if I can tell the difference between "Display" and Continuous at 150, 200, 300, 400, and 500 (max) dpi
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Here are three for a trip last week to Cades Cove, Smoky Mtns.
http://randyandgerri.smugmug.com/photos/542670141_arKXF-X2.jpg
http://randyandgerri.smugmug.com/photos/542675289_9jRr7-X2.jpg
http://randyandgerri.smugmug.com/photos/542676479_uUWJM-X2.jpg
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Yes, that is what I am trying to determine.
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EZPrints uses Fuji Frontier printers (or at least they did as of a few years ago) and those are laser printers with a print resolution of 300x600 (meaning 300 dpi in the paper feed direction, 600dpi in the laser scan direction). A laser printer is known as a "continuous tone" device (because they can vary the power and duration of the laser to any amount). So, I'm guessing that you should pick "continuous tone" as the printer type.
If you are printing at BayPhoto, I don't know what type of printers they use.
If you really want optimal results, you may need to try several different settings and then do a bunch of sample prints. Since sharpening for printing is not the same as sharpening for web display, you will also want to sharpen for print, upload to Smugmug and then see how the web display looks to make sure it's good enough for your purposes.
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I used output to screen for the sharpening on those pictures.
I have fallen in love with the metallic prints from EZ (11x14), Andy would you think the "Display" option or "Continuous" would be better for those kind of prints. If Continuous what would you use for dpi?
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Except that isn't the question he asked. He asked what settings he should use for sharpening and the implication is that he wants the optimal sharpening. You just answered that whatever he was doing was fine. Clearly when someone is going to the trouble of using a third party sharpener and asking about the settings for it, they are trying to optimize things and I don't think he yet has an answer to that question.
I acknowledge that your eye is pretty experienced on these kinds of things, but I think he was asking for a more complete answer than "those would be fine".
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I think I will try some test prints in the coming weeks and see if I can tell the difference between "Display" and Continuous at 150, 200, 300, 400, and 500 (max) dpi
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