Split Grad Filter or Photoshop?
I follow this blog here and in one of the latest posts Moose talks about using a split grad filter. Part of the post flat out says that one could not achieve the effect he did unless it was on capture (ie- not in post). He does not allow comments so I could not but I am wondering what others think of this. It seems to me that shooting in RAW and a judicious use of Photoshop layers or even some Lightroom magic ought to do it.
Also, and this is my reason for posting this here, does anyone know where these filters are available or a substitute? Amazon lists his suggestion as 'unavailable' here.
Also, and this is my reason for posting this here, does anyone know where these filters are available or a substitute? Amazon lists his suggestion as 'unavailable' here.
A Nikon D90 plus some Nikon, Sigma & Tokina lenses.
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--- Denise
Musings & ramblings at https://denisegoldberg.blogspot.com
Though I prefer to get the shot in the capture, his statement is BS. The only filter that can't be duplicated with digital manipulation is the polarizer when used to eliminate reflections, imho.
Dave
The other thing that's difficult to do in post is to appropriately introduce motion blur of something like a waterfall or stream when you can only get a slow enough shutter speed when using an ND filter.
Pick the tool you like. Sometimes I think it's easier or generates a better result to use a filter at capture time.
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You can apply the same effect in software, sure. But that does not mean you can achieve the same result. For example, one use of the split ND filter is to be able to put the foreground into a reasonable range of the exposure (e.g., not so dark that it's all noisy when you boost it in post), while preserving the color of the sky. Without an ND filter, you can try exposing for the foreground and applying a graduated filter in software, but chances are the sky details and color in the capture will be blown out with clipped highlights - it will look just terrible - and completely impossible to fix in post without synthetically replacing the sky.
What the graduated ND filter can do is bring down the exposure of the sky in the original capture so that it is not blown out, while the clear bottom part of the filter allows the foreground to be exposed in a way that is not too dark. All of the important tonal details fit within the dynamic range of the sensor, in one shot.
The only other alternative without an ND filter is to merge multiple exposures like jfriend said, but that takes time, processing, and several times the storage space on the card.
-Andy
In the end I've gone down the path of buying a set of grads. I went with Cokin's Z-Pro grad set as I wanted to be able to use them without vignetting on my Tokina 11-17mm. Even though I now own the set I've yet to be able to try them out. Everyday I get the time it's either raining or cloudy.:cry
What made me go for it was some personal logic (as such I may be wrong) as well as the opinions here. It seems to me that in capture RAW data can give some processing leeway in LR2. Would it not make sense that leeway in a non-grad shot would be more or less used up trying to make the grad in post? But, leeway from a grad shot would give one some headroom in post?
Anyway, Cokin has my money and I'm itching to try them out. We're heading to San Diego soon so I think clouds won't be much of an issue.:D