As much as I too am embroiled in LR love, +/- 1 stop on .jpg is all the correction you can hope for from LR without things getting funky. Especially with color fringing when pulling down an over exposure. I agree that with 2 shots taken at consistent, correct exposure I'd have a hard time picking which was raw and which was .jpg, but for me the ability to correct WB "by the numbers" is worth shooting RAW alone, let alone the ability to fully control shadows and recover highlights. Qarik makes a valid point though about practicing in .jpg, 80% of what I shoot is as a subcontractor for a company that demands .jpg output, so I "practice" shooting .jpg all the time, but for my OWN weddings? Never, I would rather shoot reception stuff in sRAW to save memory than go to large .jpg
Raw/jpg
I shoot raw and convert to DNG. The Canon 5dMk2 and 5d let you shoot both RAW and Jpg silmutaneously. My work flow into lightroom gives me two images to work with so in a sense it gives me a back up image. I sort them into two directories before I import to LR on a separate drive. I do that for the insurance. When I am done with the import I now have a copy of each image in RAW and in JPG x2 on two drives as well as on my cards for a total of 6 images. When I am done I can use the jpgs and with one click upload them to my website for client proofing and still work on the RAW images for edits. The nif it's a client job, I back up to dvd and put a copy in the client folder. I will archive hard drives once a year
I had a whole week's travel shoot disappear when I was learning digital in 2001 while editing and I never want that to occur ever again. YOU CAN NEVER BACK UP TOO MUCH - I go to shoot an event with two cameras, duplicate lenses and flashes and safe guard my cards as well as the images.
Anything critical I shoot raw. I never delete in camera. I keep a working directory where I delete the ones I don't want and when I am done with my editing I keep 2 sets on different drives with 4 directories of full-res jpg, low-res jpg, every raw file, and xml files of my keepers. I backup temporarily to a 2nd internal drive on my main machine and permanantly to a series of external drives. I have an adapter that allows me to hook any type of drive through usb without a case, so for long term backup I have a stack of uncased hard drives and a 1TB external. When a drive is full I lable it with what is on it. HD space is cheap so I have no need to minimize my backups to jpg. I understand the time aspect of working with raw but if ever I feel the need to do all my processing on jpg only I will do a batch convert and still back up all the raw files just in case.
All this technology you all are talking about makes me dizzy.
In case anyone is interested here is my process:
I shoot them in jpeg. Delete all the bad shots in camera (have deleted multi thousands of photos in camera over 7 years and never had a card go bad)
I use the D3 for my main camera. I can take 1400 jpegs at the highest quality available on a 16gb card. I shoot them on 1 16gb card and use the second 16gb card for backup(d3 has two card slots). I can shoot appx. 2000 photos on one battery charge as well.
I download them into Lightroom, saving the second card as backup.
I can import, process and export all the jpegs from all three cameras to my secondary drive in about 6-10 hours (in raw it took 10-12 hours just to import and export the pictures.) When shooting a wedding on Saturday I now have them essentially finished the next day, when I shot raw it would take me into the next weekend to finish them, which meant I had to work on them each night after coming home from my real job.
I shoot everything in full resolution and everything stays in full resolution.
In my last two weddings appx. 2500 pictures. There were only 2 jpegs where I could not rescue the highlights in Lightroom. I changed them to black and white and made them high key shots and went on..
If I could get them right in camera and do no processing at all that is definitely what I would do. It is actually my goal, but you have to be crazy good at composition, exposure and making sure your photos are straight and making sure there are no unwanted elements lurking in the photos.
Then I download appx. 150 favs into their online gallery and copy them all onto the clients disks. Once their photos are on their disk I delete all their cards. I keep all their photos in my secondary drive.
I also shoot some photos at each wedding with the d700(200mm shots) and d300 (macro for ring shots). I process exactly the same way.
My safety is keeping all the photos on the cards until all the photos are copied onto the clients discs. Then I delete the cards.
My assistant copies them onto her computer to meet and go over them with the client.
So long term they are on my secondary memory drive and my assistants computer and the clients have them on disc. We tell the client to recopy them to high quality discs when they get home and to copy them to their computer as well.
For me it is all about speed as long as it does not impact the quality.
We tell the client we do not guarantee we will have the photos for more than 6 months. END OF BOOK
All this technology you all are talking about makes me dizzy.
In case anyone is interested here is my process:
Interesting look into your process. I too delete in camera and don't worry about it, but untill I'm toting a 30MP camera I won't be using 16gb cards. The biggest I use are 4gb right now, but I'm going to buy 8's next time. I see having a whole wedding as a liability, you see it as convenience and security. I don't work with an assistant, so I do all the processing myself, and I don't meet with clients after the fact because I don't sell to them on the back end and frankly have no interest in doing so. I shoot RAW, process in LR2, I don't cull, I star system select 200-300, and assign a color to the ones I want in B&W, then I formulate a B&W profile and split tone depending on the couple's style and complexion. Then I apply, adjust, crop straighten all the B&W, then correct, crop and straighten the color, I bring the ones that need cloning or other work to PS. I work on the 3 that I do digital enhancements too then upload. I order proofs from smugmug, and in the mean while sync similar shots that didn't make the cut with ones that did, I do NOT straighten, clone or fix (other than bulk exposure and Color correction) the "extra" shots that didn't make the cut. When the 4x6 prints come in I assemble the proof album, burn DVDs (3 folders proofs, B&W in color, and Extras), make custom labels, print limited Lic to reprint, then deliver the book and hopefully and respectfully hope I don't have to hear from them until they want me to shoot baby pictures.
For the record I don't worry about deleting in camera as a way to damage or corrupt my card... I just keep everything just in case. Both CF and HD space are cheap. As for cards I have 4 8's, 2 4's, and 2 2's. I shoot the 8gb cards mostly but don't fill them if I can help it. When there is a break in the action and they are reaching half full I swap them out.
Blurmore, that is so interesting to me to see how you do the processing part. We do it so diametrically opposite.
I cull the crap out of the pictures in camera. I only load good pictures into Lightroom for processing.
Now starting at the first picture I go through them and add effects adjust exposure contrasts and black level on the ones that need further adjustment. I very seldom need to straighten as the d3 has a virtual horizon that tells me if the picture is straight when I take it and I almost always use it.
Cropping is so fast in Lightroom but I seldom need to use it as I adjust the focus points as I am shooting to keep the subjects where I want them in the frame, and am very careful about composing so I do not need to crop.
I am kind of liking your star system for picking pictures. I may try it to see if it is faster than culling in camera....I find it convenient cause I can do it while watching TV and keeps me off the computer just that much longer.
I hardly ever do any cloning, if a pictures needs much of it I nuke it.
I am so glad I have a great assistant. I don't meet with the clients over any of the business part she does all that. She sits with them and looks through all the pictures with them on a dual monitor system. The clients at that time pick the photos for their books and their canvas prints and enlarged photos. My assistant does all the prepping of the photos for prints, does all the book creation and all the ordering delivering to clients etc.
I have nothing but admiration for you all that have to do everything. If I had to do everything I would just be burning discs and handing them over.
I hear you guys on the card thing. My reasoning and a big reason I use the D3 as my main wedding camera is that my largest stress during a wedding was cards, losing misplacing running of pics on a card at just the wrong second. Batteries, running out at just the wrong time, bringing enough charged ones to the event.
Now that I don't have to think about cards and batteries I can focus totally on shooting.
Thought I would throw a wrench into the works.
I am using Olympus E3's with f2.0 glass.
No issues whatsoever. Yes more noise at Higher ISO, but I rarely need to go above 1200.
Thought I would throw a wrench into the works.
I am using Olympus E3's with f2.0 glass.
No issues whatsoever. Yes more noise at Higher ISO, but I rarely need to go above 1200.
Another wrench... I am using PENTAX K-7 & K10D with
f2.8, f2.4 & f1.4 glass.
Primes & zooms. K-7 at iso 1600 can get the job done..
Shooting RAW & using Noise Ninja..
The Canon vs Nikon debate is probably as old as the RAW vs JPG debate.
The Canon versus Nikon debate is actually as old as the 35mm film format itself...
Since we're in the mood to throw wrenches at the "Canon vs Nikon" and RAW vs JPG" debates, here's a few images. I've never discriminated between Canon and Nikon, I think especially the current generation of D700 / 5D mk2 cameras are definitely NOT the weakest link in most wedding photography situations. To put it nicely. Neither do I discriminate between JPG and RAW. I shoot RAW when the situation demands it, I shoot JPG as the situation allows it. If the light is harsh, the white balance is impossible, or if I'm shooting a seriously important image, I'll shoot RAW. If the light is soft, the white balance is a piece of cake, and it's detail shot time, I'll shoot JPG and never look back. In short- I firmly believe that mastering BOTH formats has proven to be the ONLY path I wanna be on...
(...This shot was taken maybe four years ago, on a beat-up old D70 with a beat-up old Tokina 17mm 3.5. RAW, and heavily processed obviously.)
(This shot was taken on a Fuji S5 and a 50mm 1.4, a JPG file with no correction...)
(A nearly SOOC "straight out of camera" JPG file taken last fall on a D300.)
(A RAW capture from that very same wedding. I switch back and forth between RAW and JPG, depending on how easy the light is...)
(JPG files, shot with in-camera B&W and a one-click processing preset I've dubbed "T-MAX, pushed")
(Back to RAW, shooting on my current D300. Processed in Bridge CS3...)
...For me the bottom line has been, can YOU tell a difference? What if I told you I had captured all the images on a 1Ds mk3, not a bunch of random old Nikon DX "junk", and that ALL the images were RAW? I'd be lying, but I hope I make my point- It's not so much about the camera, and to an extent it's not even so much about which format you shoot. With years of experience should come a sharp, keen sense of white balance and exposure. Also of course the intuition of which lens to pick for the shot, and the understanding of how to manage a low-light situation given the equipment you've gotta work with...
Another wrench... I am using PENTAX K-7 & K10D with
f2.8, f2.4 & f1.4 glass.
Primes & zooms. K-7 at iso 1600 can get the job done..
Shooting RAW & using Noise Ninja..
You don't find that mixing JPG and RAW throughout a shoot slows you down more than you gain from the faster/less processing you do on the JPGs? On other words: isn't your workflow harmed by not having a homogeneous set of files?
I like the insurance of RAW but as an old film girl, my goal is to be able to use all my images SOOC with little PS as needed.
How often did you stand and watch the printer do your rolls of film..............
It is amazing just how much the printer does sittingthere at a machine getting the RGB or MCY correctso you pix look perfect isn't it?????????..........................
You don't find that mixing JPG and RAW throughout a shoot slows you down more than you gain from the faster/less processing you do on the JPGs? On other words: isn't your workflow harmed by not having a homogeneous set of files?
Not with Lightroom. Although it's not something I do often.
For me,
Canon
Raw
Lightroom (sent to Photoshop to batch sharpen/NR using a droplet)
Photoshop (if needed or a 5* image)
As for workflow (more detailed), I ingest all images to LR. I use the P or X keys to pick or reject. For the second round, I make minor color/tonal adjustments and assign a star rating *, ***, ****, and for the best *****. Final edit, then export through PS droplet for sharpening or noise reduction and sharpening. But that's just me.
David
I would say that Nikon right now has the advantage. The D3 is unmatched in the Canon world. The 5D Mark II can be better for certain situations, but the D700 beats it by a might on AF and frame rate. The D300 is just overall a better camera than the 50D.
That being said, both systems have great lenses and tend to leapfrog each other with the cameras. Is Nikon ahead now? Yes. Could Canon take back the lead it had 2 years ago two years from now? Absolutely. A camera system is an investment. Choose your brand based on flashes (Nikon wins), lenses (tie) and other accessories. Cameras come and go. SLR systems don't.
You don't find that mixing JPG and RAW throughout a shoot slows you down more than you gain from the faster/less processing you do on the JPGs? On other words: isn't your workflow harmed by not having a homogeneous set of files?
As David Manning pointed out, when you use any of the current generation editing tools, (Bridge, LR, Aperture) ...you can edit RAW and JPG images side by side without any issues at all. I can literally open up two images at once, one JPG and the other RAW, and perform edits on both of them with one click, in Bridge.
The difference lies only in the default starting points- My RAW files automatically get a huge boost in contrast, a custom curve, and some black, shadow, brightness, and highlight adjustments. And my JPG files start with all adjustments at zero, of course...
Not with Lightroom. Although it's not something I do often.
Although I'm a 100% RAW shooter (storage is cheap, as is computing power). Reshoots and time in PS aren't. Lightroom automatically stacks the RAW and JPG, so you don't need to see the JPG if you don't want. Never have used this feature, but I know it's in there.
Thought I would throw a wrench into the works.
I am using Olympus E3's with f2.0 glass.
No issues whatsoever. Yes more noise at Higher ISO, but I rarely need to go above 1200.
I'm also using an E3, but I don't have the F2.0 glass. I have the 2.8 11-22 and 50-200 and I have to say I get more noise than what I'm happy with. If I get a big shoot I might rent a 35-100 F2 and see how much it helps. If I'm not overly impressed with the 2.0 glass I'll probably jump ship.
www.lonewolfstudios.us
Olympus E3 w HLD4, E520, E510 11-22mm, 50-200mm,35mm macro, 14-42mm, 40-150, FL50R & FL36R http://rokklym.smugmug.com/
We need sometimes to escape into open solitudes, into aimlessness, into the moral holiday of running some pure hazard, in order to sharpen the edge of life,to taste hardship, and to be compelled to work desperately for a moment no matter what.
- George Santayana, "The philosophy of travel"
I just talked to a wedding photographer today and she told me more photographers use Nikon for their wedding photography. Just wondering what you use as your primary camera body and backup.
I only shoot 6-8 weddings a year but I shoot them with a Pentax K20D and a Pentax K10D as a second body with lots of really good fast Pentax glass.
Pentax K10D, K20D body, PENTAX-DA* 16-50mm f/2.8, PENTAX-DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Pentax DA* 300mm f/4, Pentax DA 10-17mm, Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 II EX DG MACRO HSM, Pentax DA 18-250mm F3.5-6.3, Pentax Super Takumar 200mm f/4,
Comments
I shoot raw and convert to DNG. The Canon 5dMk2 and 5d let you shoot both RAW and Jpg silmutaneously. My work flow into lightroom gives me two images to work with so in a sense it gives me a back up image. I sort them into two directories before I import to LR on a separate drive. I do that for the insurance. When I am done with the import I now have a copy of each image in RAW and in JPG x2 on two drives as well as on my cards for a total of 6 images. When I am done I can use the jpgs and with one click upload them to my website for client proofing and still work on the RAW images for edits. The nif it's a client job, I back up to dvd and put a copy in the client folder. I will archive hard drives once a year
I had a whole week's travel shoot disappear when I was learning digital in 2001 while editing and I never want that to occur ever again. YOU CAN NEVER BACK UP TOO MUCH - I go to shoot an event with two cameras, duplicate lenses and flashes and safe guard my cards as well as the images.
Flash Frozen Photography, Inc.
http://flashfrozenphotography.com
Matt
Bodies: Canon 5d mkII, 5d, 40d
Lenses: 24-70 f2.8L, 70-200 f4.0L, 135 f2L, 85 f1.8, 50 1.8, 100 f2.8 macro, Tamron 28-105 f2.8
Flash: 2x 580 exII, Canon ST-E2, 2x Pocket Wizard flexTT5, and some lower end studio strobes
In case anyone is interested here is my process:
I shoot them in jpeg. Delete all the bad shots in camera (have deleted multi thousands of photos in camera over 7 years and never had a card go bad)
I use the D3 for my main camera. I can take 1400 jpegs at the highest quality available on a 16gb card. I shoot them on 1 16gb card and use the second 16gb card for backup(d3 has two card slots). I can shoot appx. 2000 photos on one battery charge as well.
I download them into Lightroom, saving the second card as backup.
I can import, process and export all the jpegs from all three cameras to my secondary drive in about 6-10 hours (in raw it took 10-12 hours just to import and export the pictures.) When shooting a wedding on Saturday I now have them essentially finished the next day, when I shot raw it would take me into the next weekend to finish them, which meant I had to work on them each night after coming home from my real job.
I shoot everything in full resolution and everything stays in full resolution.
In my last two weddings appx. 2500 pictures. There were only 2 jpegs where I could not rescue the highlights in Lightroom. I changed them to black and white and made them high key shots and went on..
If I could get them right in camera and do no processing at all that is definitely what I would do. It is actually my goal, but you have to be crazy good at composition, exposure and making sure your photos are straight and making sure there are no unwanted elements lurking in the photos.
Then I download appx. 150 favs into their online gallery and copy them all onto the clients disks. Once their photos are on their disk I delete all their cards. I keep all their photos in my secondary drive.
I also shoot some photos at each wedding with the d700(200mm shots) and d300 (macro for ring shots). I process exactly the same way.
My safety is keeping all the photos on the cards until all the photos are copied onto the clients discs. Then I delete the cards.
My assistant copies them onto her computer to meet and go over them with the client.
So long term they are on my secondary memory drive and my assistants computer and the clients have them on disc. We tell the client to recopy them to high quality discs when they get home and to copy them to their computer as well.
For me it is all about speed as long as it does not impact the quality.
We tell the client we do not guarantee we will have the photos for more than 6 months. END OF BOOK
http://www.flickr.com/photos/21695902@N06/
http://500px.com/Shockey
alloutdoor.smugmug.com
http://aoboudoirboise.smugmug.com/
Interesting look into your process. I too delete in camera and don't worry about it, but untill I'm toting a 30MP camera I won't be using 16gb cards. The biggest I use are 4gb right now, but I'm going to buy 8's next time. I see having a whole wedding as a liability, you see it as convenience and security. I don't work with an assistant, so I do all the processing myself, and I don't meet with clients after the fact because I don't sell to them on the back end and frankly have no interest in doing so. I shoot RAW, process in LR2, I don't cull, I star system select 200-300, and assign a color to the ones I want in B&W, then I formulate a B&W profile and split tone depending on the couple's style and complexion. Then I apply, adjust, crop straighten all the B&W, then correct, crop and straighten the color, I bring the ones that need cloning or other work to PS. I work on the 3 that I do digital enhancements too then upload. I order proofs from smugmug, and in the mean while sync similar shots that didn't make the cut with ones that did, I do NOT straighten, clone or fix (other than bulk exposure and Color correction) the "extra" shots that didn't make the cut. When the 4x6 prints come in I assemble the proof album, burn DVDs (3 folders proofs, B&W in color, and Extras), make custom labels, print limited Lic to reprint, then deliver the book and hopefully and respectfully hope I don't have to hear from them until they want me to shoot baby pictures.
Matt
Bodies: Canon 5d mkII, 5d, 40d
Lenses: 24-70 f2.8L, 70-200 f4.0L, 135 f2L, 85 f1.8, 50 1.8, 100 f2.8 macro, Tamron 28-105 f2.8
Flash: 2x 580 exII, Canon ST-E2, 2x Pocket Wizard flexTT5, and some lower end studio strobes
I cull the crap out of the pictures in camera. I only load good pictures into Lightroom for processing.
Now starting at the first picture I go through them and add effects adjust exposure contrasts and black level on the ones that need further adjustment. I very seldom need to straighten as the d3 has a virtual horizon that tells me if the picture is straight when I take it and I almost always use it.
Cropping is so fast in Lightroom but I seldom need to use it as I adjust the focus points as I am shooting to keep the subjects where I want them in the frame, and am very careful about composing so I do not need to crop.
I am kind of liking your star system for picking pictures. I may try it to see if it is faster than culling in camera....I find it convenient cause I can do it while watching TV and keeps me off the computer just that much longer.
I hardly ever do any cloning, if a pictures needs much of it I nuke it.
I am so glad I have a great assistant. I don't meet with the clients over any of the business part she does all that. She sits with them and looks through all the pictures with them on a dual monitor system. The clients at that time pick the photos for their books and their canvas prints and enlarged photos. My assistant does all the prepping of the photos for prints, does all the book creation and all the ordering delivering to clients etc.
I have nothing but admiration for you all that have to do everything. If I had to do everything I would just be burning discs and handing them over.
I hear you guys on the card thing. My reasoning and a big reason I use the D3 as my main wedding camera is that my largest stress during a wedding was cards, losing misplacing running of pics on a card at just the wrong second. Batteries, running out at just the wrong time, bringing enough charged ones to the event.
Now that I don't have to think about cards and batteries I can focus totally on shooting.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/21695902@N06/
http://500px.com/Shockey
alloutdoor.smugmug.com
http://aoboudoirboise.smugmug.com/
I am using Olympus E3's with f2.0 glass.
No issues whatsoever. Yes more noise at Higher ISO, but I rarely need to go above 1200.
APL Photography || My Gear: Bunch of 4/3rds stuff
Facebook: Friend / Fan || Twitter: @aplphoto
Another wrench... I am using PENTAX K-7 & K10D with
f2.8, f2.4 & f1.4 glass.
Primes & zooms. K-7 at iso 1600 can get the job done..
Shooting RAW & using Noise Ninja..
Facebook: Friend / Fan || Twitter: @shimamizu || Google Plus
Since we're in the mood to throw wrenches at the "Canon vs Nikon" and RAW vs JPG" debates, here's a few images. I've never discriminated between Canon and Nikon, I think especially the current generation of D700 / 5D mk2 cameras are definitely NOT the weakest link in most wedding photography situations. To put it nicely. Neither do I discriminate between JPG and RAW. I shoot RAW when the situation demands it, I shoot JPG as the situation allows it. If the light is harsh, the white balance is impossible, or if I'm shooting a seriously important image, I'll shoot RAW. If the light is soft, the white balance is a piece of cake, and it's detail shot time, I'll shoot JPG and never look back. In short- I firmly believe that mastering BOTH formats has proven to be the ONLY path I wanna be on...
(...This shot was taken maybe four years ago, on a beat-up old D70 with a beat-up old Tokina 17mm 3.5. RAW, and heavily processed obviously.)
(This shot was taken on a Fuji S5 and a 50mm 1.4, a JPG file with no correction...)
(A nearly SOOC "straight out of camera" JPG file taken last fall on a D300.)
(A RAW capture from that very same wedding. I switch back and forth between RAW and JPG, depending on how easy the light is...)
(JPG files, shot with in-camera B&W and a one-click processing preset I've dubbed "T-MAX, pushed")
(Back to RAW, shooting on my current D300. Processed in Bridge CS3...)
...For me the bottom line has been, can YOU tell a difference? What if I told you I had captured all the images on a 1Ds mk3, not a bunch of random old Nikon DX "junk", and that ALL the images were RAW? I'd be lying, but I hope I make my point- It's not so much about the camera, and to an extent it's not even so much about which format you shoot. With years of experience should come a sharp, keen sense of white balance and exposure. Also of course the intuition of which lens to pick for the shot, and the understanding of how to manage a low-light situation given the equipment you've gotta work with...
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Nice!
APL Photography || My Gear: Bunch of 4/3rds stuff
Facebook: Friend / Fan || Twitter: @aplphoto
You don't find that mixing JPG and RAW throughout a shoot slows you down more than you gain from the faster/less processing you do on the JPGs? On other words: isn't your workflow harmed by not having a homogeneous set of files?
Here is a wedding website I created for a customer as a value-add. Comments appreciated.
Founding member of The Professional Photography Forum as well.
JPG can be great for events when you have biliions of frames to get out, and online asap.
Best is shoot RAW+jpg, storage is dirt cheap
Portfolio • Workshops • Facebook • Twitter
How often did you stand and watch the printer do your rolls of film..............
It is amazing just how much the printer does sittingthere at a machine getting the RGB or MCY correctso you pix look perfect isn't it?????????..........................
Not with Lightroom. Although it's not something I do often.
For me,
- Canon
- Raw
- Lightroom (sent to Photoshop to batch sharpen/NR using a droplet)
- Photoshop (if needed or a 5* image)
As for workflow (more detailed), I ingest all images to LR. I use the P or X keys to pick or reject. For the second round, I make minor color/tonal adjustments and assign a star rating *, ***, ****, and for the best *****. Final edit, then export through PS droplet for sharpening or noise reduction and sharpening. But that's just me.David
That being said, both systems have great lenses and tend to leapfrog each other with the cameras. Is Nikon ahead now? Yes. Could Canon take back the lead it had 2 years ago two years from now? Absolutely. A camera system is an investment. Choose your brand based on flashes (Nikon wins), lenses (tie) and other accessories. Cameras come and go. SLR systems don't.
Save $5 on a new Smugmug Membership
Host your website for just $3.45/mo with JustHost - Rated best web host of 2010
See my profile for a gear list & more
The difference lies only in the default starting points- My RAW files automatically get a huge boost in contrast, a custom curve, and some black, shadow, brightness, and highlight adjustments. And my JPG files start with all adjustments at zero, of course...
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Although I'm a 100% RAW shooter (storage is cheap, as is computing power). Reshoots and time in PS aren't. Lightroom automatically stacks the RAW and JPG, so you don't need to see the JPG if you don't want. Never have used this feature, but I know it's in there.
Save $5 on a new Smugmug Membership
Host your website for just $3.45/mo with JustHost - Rated best web host of 2010
See my profile for a gear list & more
I'm also using an E3, but I don't have the F2.0 glass. I have the 2.8 11-22 and 50-200 and I have to say I get more noise than what I'm happy with. If I get a big shoot I might rent a 35-100 F2 and see how much it helps. If I'm not overly impressed with the 2.0 glass I'll probably jump ship.
Olympus E3 w HLD4, E520, E510 11-22mm, 50-200mm,35mm macro, 14-42mm, 40-150, FL50R & FL36R
http://rokklym.smugmug.com/
We need sometimes to escape into open solitudes, into aimlessness, into the moral holiday of running some pure hazard, in order to sharpen the edge of life,to taste hardship, and to be compelled to work desperately for a moment no matter what.
- George Santayana, "The philosophy of travel"
I only shoot 6-8 weddings a year but I shoot them with a Pentax K20D and a Pentax K10D as a second body with lots of really good fast Pentax glass.