Greystoke Stages Motor Rally

canon400d

Here are some shots of the Greystoke Stages Motor Rally which I took yesterday. This event was held in the Northern part of the Lake District, Cumbria. Your C & C is more than welcome as I need all the advice I can get for future shoots.
Regards
Bob
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thapamd

Pretty cool stuff, Bob! I especially love how the red cars really stand out against the dark greens of the forest. Nice job!

canon400d

thapamd wrote:

Pretty cool stuff, Bob! I especially love how the red cars really stand out against the dark greens of the forest. Nice job!

Thanks ever so much Mahesh but I think I boobed here. This should have been under the SPORTS forum if anyone can send it. I sincerely apologise for the trouble I have caused.
Regards
Bob

schmoo

No wories Bob, I moved it for you! Sorry I've been occupied today, or else I would have seen this sooner.

canon400d

schmoo wrote:

No wories Bob, I moved it for you! Sorry I've been occupied today, or else I would have seen this sooner.

No problems Schmoo I hope I get some feed back on these because I have the opportnity to go to another rally quite soon and I need all the advice I can get to improve.
Regards
Bob

nipprdog

canon400d wrote:

I hope I get some feed back on these because I have the opportnity to go to another rally quite soon and I need all the advice I can get to improve.
Regards
Bob

Too much DOF. Cars aren't isolated.

Shutter speeds too high. Not much 'motion' effect in most shots.

canon400d

nipprdog wrote:

Too much DOF. Cars aren't isolated.

Shutter speeds too high. Not much 'motion' effect in most shots.

Thanks ever so much for that Jim I really appreciate what you say. Can ytou please tell me what shutter speed I should be aiming for? I was using 2.8 with my 17-55, do you think I should use a higher f stop?
Regards
Bob

cmason

canon400d wrote:

Thanks ever so much for that Jim I really appreciate what you say. Can ytou please tell me what shutter speed I should be aiming for? I was using 2.8 with my 17-55, do you think I should use a higher f stop?
Regards
Bob

I find that the most important thing is shutter speed, as I use the aperature to adjust for exposure, to keep the shutter where I need it. Many of my shots are at f/14 for example. Exactly what speed depends on your lens and the speed of the vehicle. First, to get these motion shots, you MUST pan with the vehicle, Second, I find the 1/125 is my bottom limit, anything less and the blurries come into play. This of course depends on your lens, in my case it is a 70-200, usually around 100-150mm. So basically I am setting shutter speed at focal length limits. Most shots appear to be at 1/200s. Again, panning is critical to get the motion 'look', where the wheels have a bit of blur and the background is blurred. Faster and you get the 'stop motion' look, which has its place. Nothing better for a detailed shot of a car, but it doesnt show 'action'.

Here is an example, click the photo to see more and check the shutter speeds:

tom_o

cmason wrote:

Again, panning is critical to get the motion 'look', where the wheels have a bit of blur and the background is blurred. Faster and you get the 'stop motion' look, which has its place. Nothing better for a detailed shot of a car, but it doesnt show 'action'.

Totally agreed.

Nice to see that Boxster w/ the hardtop getting dirty!

canon400d

cmason wrote:

I find that the most important thing is shutter speed, as I use the aperature to adjust for exposure, to keep the shutter where I need it. Many of my shots are at f/14 for example. Exactly what speed depends on your lens and the speed of the vehicle. First, to get these motion shots, you MUST pan with the vehicle, Second, I find the 1/125 is my bottom limit, anything less and the blurries come into play. This of course depends on your lens, in my case it is a 70-200, usually around 100-150mm. So basically I am setting shutter speed at focal length limits. Most shots appear to be at 1/200s. Again, panning is critical to get the motion 'look', where the wheels have a bit of blur and the background is blurred. Faster and you get the 'stop motion' look, which has its place. Nothing better for a detailed shot of a car, but it doesnt show 'action'.

Here is an example, click the photo to see more and check the shutter speeds:

Hi Chip wow your shots are fantastic mate. The next time I will try f14. When you say about panning are you actual moving the camera with the vehicle shooting in continuous? I assumed if I moved the camera i would get a totally blurred result of everything in the image. I have been shooting manual would I be better using AV? As you know Chip I am still learning and you have helped me out many times before which I truly appreciate.
Regards
Bob

moose135

canon400d wrote:

When you say about panning are you actual moving the camera with the vehicle shooting in continuous? I assumed if I moved the camera i would get a totally blurred result of everything in the image.

It takes some practice, but yes, you move the camera to follow the action. Actually I hold the camera steady as I would any other shot, and pivot my hips to follow the movement. For me, it comes in handy not only for automobiles, but for aviation photography as well. As Chip said, slow down your shutter speed and turn with the subject. You'll probably get more blurry shots than keepers at first, but keep at it. One other important thing - just like hitting a baseball or golf ball, don't stop moving when you take your shots - follow through your panning motion, or you can get blurry shots.

Matt336

moose135 wrote:

It takes some practice, but yes, you move the camera to follow the action. Actually I hold the camera steady as I would any other shot, and pivot my hips to follow the movement. For me, it comes in handy not only for automobiles, but for aviation photography as well. As Chip said, slow down your shutter speed and turn with the subject. You'll probably get more blurry shots than keepers at first, but keep at it. One other important thing - just like hitting a baseball or golf ball, don't stop moving when you take your shots - follow through your panning motion, or you can get blurry shots.

I agree with him. Panning can be really fun when you get it down. Don't get frustrated with the blurry ones you get right away.

canon400d

Matt336 wrote:

I agree with him. Panning can be really fun when you get it down. Don't get frustrated with the blurry ones you get right away.

Thanks Moose and Matt for that information I can't wait to try this out. I have been frustrated many times before and I am still cracking on and learning all the time. I really appreciate your kind help.
Regards
Bob

cmason

canon400d wrote:

Hi Chip wow your shots are fantastic mate. The next time I will try f14. When you say about panning are you actual moving the camera with the vehicle shooting in continuous? I assumed if I moved the camera i would get a totally blurred result of everything in the image. I have been shooting manual would I be better using AV? As you know Chip I am still learning and you have helped me out many times before which I truly appreciate.
Regards
Bob

Bob, as others have said, yes, moving the camera with the car. And yes, it can be tricky, as ALMS and F1 cars move rather quickly! I have found that I leave the camera usually on Tv mode, so that i can carefully select a shutter speed that works best for the shot, let the camera choose whatever f-stop it wants. The problem with Manual is that I shoot over a fairly broad patch of real estate, and exposure changes quite a bit as you move, esp with clouds and other changes. So I just let the camera figure it out and stay on Tv.

The motion takes some practice, but you will eventually get a nice smooth motion, twisting your body while holding the camera steady, sweeping along with the car. You will get the speed down after a few laps, and your keeper rate will go up. When it gets late in the day, I use my monopod, which also helps quite a bit in steadying things.

Oh, and put your camera in high speed shot mode as well, and just hold the shutter down as you pan. The most difficult thing is to get the car centered without cutting off any of it. You really can't see the car in the viewfinder, other than ensuring there is a car in view and it is level in the image, so blasting off a bunch of images ensures at least one turns out.

I also find it best to have the camera on either AI Focus or AI Servo mode, as I find I get just a few more keepers that way. It works best with one car in the view; with multiple cars the camera always seems to focus where I don't want it.

But in the end, you are just going to have to go out there and shoot, check your shots, and see what combination of shutter speed and panning work for the shot you want. You will delete lots of images, but fortunately, there are pleny of laps. I take an enormous number of pictures at races, and typically keep a tiny fraction...it is a percentage game.

Enjoy!

Jathnael

Here is an example of what they are talking about.

It takes practice, but once you get the hang of it it becomes second nature.
BTW that was shot with a D40 and a kit lens.

canon400d

cmason wrote:

Bob, as others have said, yes, moving the camera with the car. And yes, it can be tricky, as ALMS and F1 cars move rather quickly! I have found that I leave the camera usually on Tv mode, so that i can carefully select a shutter speed that works best for the shot, let the camera choose whatever f-stop it wants. The problem with Manual is that I shoot over a fairly broad patch of real estate, and exposure changes quite a bit as you move, esp with clouds and other changes. So I just let the camera figure it out and stay on Tv.

The motion takes some practice, but you will eventually get a nice smooth motion, twisting your body while holding the camera steady, sweeping along with the car. You will get the speed down after a few laps, and your keeper rate will go up. When it gets late in the day, I use my monopod, which also helps quite a bit in steadying things.

Oh, and put your camera in high speed shot mode as well, and just hold the shutter down as you pan. The most difficult thing is to get the car centered without cutting off any of it. You really can't see the car in the viewfinder, other than ensuring there is a car in view and it is level in the image, so blasting off a bunch of images ensures at least one turns out.

I also find it best to have the camera on either AI Focus or AI Servo mode, as I find I get just a few more keepers that way. It works best with one car in the view; with multiple cars the camera always seems to focus where I don't want it.

But in the end, you are just going to have to go out there and shoot, check your shots, and see what combination of shutter speed and panning work for the shot you want. You will delete lots of images, but fortunately, there are pleny of laps. I take an enormous number of pictures at races, and typically keep a tiny fraction...it is a percentage game.

Enjoy!

C you have come to my aid once again and I truly appreciate the sound advice you have given me. As I say I cannot wait to put into practice what you have told me. Thanks again.
Regards
Bob
P.S hopefully one day I will get there.

canon400d

Jathnael wrote:

Here is an example of what they are talking about.

It takes practice, but once you get the hang of it it becomes second nature.
BTW that was shot with a D40 and a kit lens.

Yes I see exactly what you mean. I would love to produce a shot like that as it is fantastic. Hopefully I will be able to do the same soon. Unfortunately the meetings are about finished and I will have to look at something else probably show jumping.
Regards
Bob