July 18. Wedding
This is number 5 for me this summer. I think I'm getting a bit better at it, but would love some constructive feedback.
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I'll start with a few details
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Sean Martin
www.seanmartinphoto.com
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it's not the size of the lens that matters... It's how you focus it.
aaaaa.... who am I kidding!
whoever dies with the biggest coolest piece of glass, wins!
www.seanmartinphoto.com
__________________________________________________
it's not the size of the lens that matters... It's how you focus it.
aaaaa.... who am I kidding!
whoever dies with the biggest coolest piece of glass, wins!
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Thanks a ton for the critique.
I was left a little undewhelmed by the gown and found I was at a loss as to what to do with it. Any suggestions or bright ideas when faced with something rather plain like this?
I seem to be struggling with the fill flash and retaining the sky. It's something I mean to put a lot of work into soon.
The groom was noticing and examining her necklace. I felt it would be something she would probably appreciate, but probably not the best thing to be showing off here.
I had picked the location earlier and the light hadn't been a problem. I was having such a tough time getting anyone together for any of the formals that I was afraid to move even 50 feet for fear of loosing them.
Still the fill flash. I need work there. I was trying to preserve the colored lights from the DJs lighting. I was afraid fill would kill it totally.
www.seanmartinphoto.com
__________________________________________________
it's not the size of the lens that matters... It's how you focus it.
aaaaa.... who am I kidding!
whoever dies with the biggest coolest piece of glass, wins!
1. As it was - I took this image because I knew what I wanted (see next image) but was not sure I would be able to pull it off. So, I took a safety.
2. This is the result of a different exposure and a bit of work in post
3. One of my earliest successes
I don't know that there's any problem showing it here. It was just something I've not seen before so I asked. I agree - this is probably a shot that the B&G are going to really appreciate later if they don't already.
I know the feeling. You scope a place out and then it changes in 1/2 hour. There's only two ways I know to counter that problem. The first is to scope it out sometime before the wedding day, at the same time of day. The other is to observe a bit better - what do you have for cover, where is the sun, where is the sun likely to be in 30 or 60 minutes.
As for the fear of loosing them, I ask the bride to provide me with someone how knows everyone at the wedding. This is usually one of the bridesmaids or friend of the family or the wedding coordinator. Someone. The B&G are paying the photographer to capture moments and images. The photographer is not being paid to round everyone up or to make sure they stay where they are supposed be. That should be one someone who is getting compensated for that work (and compensation doesn't need to mean being paid ). If you allow the B&G to take a little ownership of the process, things usually turn out better and you don't get quite so stressed.
Heather's idea of delivering a schedule to the clients (the B&G) before hand is also something that has promise. I haven't tried that yet - I just read about it in another thread, but would seem to have some merit - again it let's the clieint take some ownership of the process .... and it helps them "Be where you need to be, when you need to be there if you want the photographs you've indicated you want to have."
Fill flash does not (and should not) blow out the ambient light. As you continue your research and practice, come to understand a technique called "Dragging the Shutter". This might be a good place to start that process. Basically, dragging the shutter is setting your exposure settings to allow for the capture of the ambient light (much like you did for this photo), then adding just a bit of flash to the mix. This "just a bit of flash" will usually (but not always) be something in the neighborhood of -2/3 to -5/3 of a stop less then ambient. On a Canon camera, use manaul mode, set your exposure for the ambient (maybe 1 stop less than ambient if you want to bring ambient down a bit) then set your FEC to something in the range of -2/3 to -1 2/3 stop. Doing this, the flash will not over-power the ambient but will complement it. This is one of my more successful shots using this technique:
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EXIF: ISO 800, 1/25s, f/2.8 Of course, flash was off-camera, but the technique is the same as using an on-camera flash except you don't have the facility of using FEC - you have to do all the math in your head instead of using the computer in the camera to calculate the FEC. Just remember that you use the shutter speed (in addition to aperture) to control extent to which ambient light contributes to the exposure and you use the aperture to control the extent to which flash contributes to the exposure. So the longer the shutter speed, the higher the ratio of ambient:flash in your exposure.
My Photos
Thoughts on photographing a wedding, How to post a picture, AF Microadjustments?, Light Scoop
Equipment List - Check my profile